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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/11/2012 4:55 PM   
spaceworm


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: spaceworm


quote:

ORIGINAL: cheezer1222


quote:

ORIGINAL: downunder

As others have said, 12% acetone is far too much. About 3% is the usual recommendation for 2 strokes (5% for 4 strokes) but only in fuels with no nitro. Even then it's only used to give an idle approximately what you'd get with around 5% nitro although it may give slightly easier starting.



Yeah, I must have misunderstood the information when I originally read it. I think I read it as giving the same power as 5% nitro, when really I should have been reading it as giving the same idle characteristics.

As far as the model lube oil goes, will it not mix as long as there is any methanol in the mixture? Because I was thinking I could try a small batch that looks something like this:

25oz Batch
48% methanol
28% gasoline
4% acetone
20% oil (80/20)

My thinking is that, along with the acetone, the gasoline might help the oil to stay mixed in. Is my thinking off on that? I'm not desperate to use the model lube oil. It's just that I had some extra sitting there and I have a couple days before I get my original techniplate in the mail.



You may want to look at the gas-glow forum for running gasoline/glow fuel mixes with a glow plug. They have lots of experience and successes.


Sorry! My bad. That forum is for running gas engines with a gas/glow mix to use a glow plug instead of a spark plug. Not your case.

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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/11/2012 5:15 PM   
cheezer1222


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: spaceworm


quote:

ORIGINAL: spaceworm


quote:

ORIGINAL: cheezer1222


quote:

ORIGINAL: downunder

As others have said, 12% acetone is far too much. About 3% is the usual recommendation for 2 strokes (5% for 4 strokes) but only in fuels with no nitro. Even then it's only used to give an idle approximately what you'd get with around 5% nitro although it may give slightly easier starting.



Yeah, I must have misunderstood the information when I originally read it. I think I read it as giving the same power as 5% nitro, when really I should have been reading it as giving the same idle characteristics.

As far as the model lube oil goes, will it not mix as long as there is any methanol in the mixture? Because I was thinking I could try a small batch that looks something like this:

25oz Batch
48% methanol
28% gasoline
4% acetone
20% oil (80/20)

My thinking is that, along with the acetone, the gasoline might help the oil to stay mixed in. Is my thinking off on that? I'm not desperate to use the model lube oil. It's just that I had some extra sitting there and I have a couple days before I get my original techniplate in the mail.


You may want to look at the gas-glow forum for running gasoline/glow fuel mixes with a glow plug. They have lots of experience and successes.


Sorry! My bad. That forum is for running gas engines with a gas/glow mix to use a glow plug instead of a spark plug. Not your case.


I actually have that forum bookmarked. I've been SLOWLY making my way through it over the past few days. It's very interesting.


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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/11/2012 5:27 PM   
cheezer1222


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: gkamysz


quote:

ORIGINAL: cheezer1222
As far as the model lube oil goes, will it not mix as long as there is any methanol in the mixture? Because I was thinking I could try a small batch that looks something like this:

25oz Batch
48% methanol
28% gasoline
4% acetone
20% oil (80/20)


If you add that much gas the model lube might stay in solution. The trouble is your fuel probably will not work well. Gasoline will further reduce the power output and require even leaner needle settings. The needles will be critical and midrange probably fat.

I'd simply make a batch of methanol - Benol and be done with it.

Greg


That's probably the easiest route. I might make a small batch doing just the methanol/benol. Either that or I'll wait until I get the original techniplate in, and then do an 80/20 oil mix.

Another question: So that I don't have to dump the 12% acetone batch that I made, can I add gas and run it in my gasser (baja)? Or am I opening up a whole new can of worms? I know in the gasser to glow forum, when it came to mixing methanol, they had talked about the possibility of carb diaphragm swelling, fuel line swelling, etc. I'm not against dumping it, I just think it would be nice not to waste it.

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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/11/2012 5:29 PM   
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I like your mix of Klotz with Castor- that's what I always do , too. I usually use 3 to 4 parts Klotz to 1 part Castor (Benol is castor oil) partly because castor is cheaper, and partly because it protects the engine better.
The gasoline is completely not what I'd do... Gas is gas, and methanol is methanol, and never the twain shall meet. I'd lose that idea right away. Silicone fuel lines are also not compatible with gasoline.
If you're using this fuel in larger engines, you could cut down on oil mix, too, to say 18% for a .90. Superrtigre recommends using even less for its big glow engines, I think 5% or 10%. It's a little surprising that this makes a noticable increase in power- you got more burnable fuel, and less oil getting in the way.
I've been mixing my own fuel since I was old enough to drive to get the components (40 years) and I must say, I've never heard of using Acetone, but I also don't fly where where it gets below freezing...

All in all, it's pretty simple: Methanol, Nitro, oil, and that's it.

I once read a post by an English guy in a thread on the old rec.models.rc.air newsgroup discussing how water contamination of the fuel affects the performance of the engine. The writer said in his tests he found that the performance of the engine was not greatly affected until the water content was something like 20%...!! So take that into consideration... It almost seems like an easy way to make more fuel for less cost. It's possible that the small quantity of water turns to a larger volume of steam during combustion, and compensates for its lack of heat production to some degree. Sounds a little unlikely, I know.

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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/11/2012 5:49 PM   
gkamysz



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quote:

ORIGINAL: cheezer1222
Another question: So that I don't have to dump the 12% acetone batch that I made, can I add gas and run it in my gasser (baja)? Or am I opening up a whole new can of worms? I know in the gasser to glow forum, when it came to mixing methanol, they had talked about the possibility of carb diaphragm swelling, fuel line swelling, etc. I'm not against dumping it, I just think it would be nice not to waste it.


Yes, can of worms. Just chalk it up to experience. I have about a gallon of strange or wasted fuel mixes and I make small 100-200mL batches when testing different things. Most of it just stuff that was left in the tank from test runs and needed to be drained before the next run.

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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/12/2012 12:13 AM   
pe reivers



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Water in the fuel reduces knocking, and allows higher compression ratios IF THE FUEL IS FRESH! If allowed to stand off, the water will spoil the lubricant viscosities and cause all kind of problems like gel and varnish forming.
Fuel foaming can be effectively counteracted by using a felt clunk. No additives are needed for that.
quote:

ORIGINAL: buzzard350

I like your mix of Klotz with Castor- that's what I always do , too. I usually use 3 to 4 parts Klotz to 1 part Castor (Benol is castor oil) partly because castor is cheaper, and partly because it protects the engine better.
The gasoline is completely not what I'd do... Gas is gas, and methanol is methanol, and never the twain shall meet. I'd lose that idea right away. Silicone fuel lines are also not compatible with gasoline.
If you're using this fuel in larger engines, you could cut down on oil mix, too, to say 18% for a .90. Superrtigre recommends using even less for its big glow engines, I think 5% or 10%. It's a little surprising that this makes a noticable increase in power- you got more burnable fuel, and less oil getting in the way.
I've been mixing my own fuel since I was old enough to drive to get the components (40 years) and I must say, I've never heard of using Acetone, but I also don't fly where where it gets below freezing...

All in all, it's pretty simple: Methanol, Nitro, oil, and that's it.

I once read a post by an English guy in a thread on the old rec.models.rc.air newsgroup discussing how water contamination of the fuel affects the performance of the engine. The writer said in his tests he found that the performance of the engine was not greatly affected until the water content was something like 20%...!! So take that into consideration... It almost seems like an easy way to make more fuel for less cost. It's possible that the small quantity of water turns to a larger volume of steam during combustion, and compensates for its lack of heat production to some degree. Sounds a little unlikely, I know.



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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/12/2012 2:43 AM   
fiery


 

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Water/methanol injection was a highly effective power boosting agent for Daimler-Benz, BMW and Junkers in their aero engines from 1942 to 1945

< Message edited by fiery -- 1/12/2012 3:52 AM >


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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/12/2012 5:11 AM   
blw



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The best known for that is the P&W Double Wasp radial.

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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/12/2012 12:41 PM   
pe reivers



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I think the Germans were the first to use water injection with their MW50  (1942) and MW30 fuel injection War emergency power that could be sustained for about ten minutes, allowing take off supercharger boost ratios.
See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MW50


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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/12/2012 5:52 PM   
blw



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I just learned that turbines also use water injection. When injected before the compressor section it gives a boost in thrust due to the water injection making the air denser. I never thought about turbines in the driving rain either.

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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/13/2012 10:57 PM   
pe reivers



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In my MX engine back in the 60-ties I experimented with injecting water in the engine exhaust port. It worked in top speed, but most of all in acceleration (cooling expansion volume, and increasing charge). At that time however, I lacked the skills to make it work in the racing environment.


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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/14/2012 12:00 AM   
aspeed


 

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I used to dribble a couple ounces of water in the carb of the cars when they were hot to steamblast the carbon off the valves and top of the pistons every couple of years, but most of my cars are fuel injected now, and I forgot about it too.  I think water injection allows more ignition advance and prevents detonation in cars at least.  I would rather keep it out of my glow fuel.  I heard freezing the fuel that is cloudy with water mixed in, and then running through a coffee filter gets the water out of glow fuel.  I hear lots of things.

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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/14/2012 6:11 PM   
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Well, the finding by the English guy about the water in the fuel at least lets us relax a little when it comes to being obsessive about keeping water out of the fuel- it just doesn't seem to make that much difference.

I think the biggest source of water-in-the-fuel is using exhaust pressure, but in the end, it isn't that significant... how much water can a tank full of exhaust gases contain?

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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/14/2012 6:26 PM   
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If you use the Jett bubble less style tank it gets separated and doesn't enter at all.

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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/14/2012 6:49 PM   
pe reivers



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Once the fuel gets cloudy, no amount of filtering will do. Dispose of it, or trouble will be ahead.

quote:

ORIGINAL: aspeed

I used to dribble a couple ounces of water in the carb of the cars when they were hot to steamblast the carbon off the valves and top of the pistons every couple of years, but most of my cars are fuel injected now, and I forgot about it too.  I think water injection allows more ignition advance and prevents detonation in cars at least.  I would rather keep it out of my glow fuel.  I heard freezing the fuel that is cloudy with water mixed in, and then running through a coffee filter gets the water out of glow fuel.  I hear lots of things.



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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/14/2012 8:53 PM   
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It is frozen water crystals, and gets filtered.  Sounds like a good experiment to try sometime. Maybe measure the water going in and measure it after filtering if there is any? I never really had any cloudy, mostly mine gets brownish or just seems to have lost the nitro or methanol from evaporation.

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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/14/2012 9:43 PM   
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The water that coagulates with the oil and forms soap with caustic substances will not freeze out or/and filter out. The fuel is toast.


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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/14/2012 11:13 PM   
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Yep.



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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/15/2012 1:12 AM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: buzzard350
Well, the finding by the English guy about the water in the fuel at least lets us relax a little when it comes to being obsessive about keeping water out of the fuel- it just doesn't seem to make that much difference.

I don't know how the guy came to that conclusion about 20% water because I did some tests at the field one day by gradually adding some water to the (fresh) fuel, starting the engine and then, if all looked good, I'd fly the plane. At first there was no difference at all until at a certain point the engine suddenly flat refused to even fire except with a prime of fresh fuel and then would stop as soon as the prime ran out. The cause became quickly apparent because all the oil in the fuel had dropped out of solution to the bottom of the tank so the clunk was immersed in oil! The amount of water I'd added to get this to happen was only 4%. I might add that at the critical point the oil instantly fell out of solution.

Further tests at home with heating and cooling samples of fuel showed a straight line graph of the tolerance for water, the colder the fuel the less water was tolerable. Strangely though, I found that a fuel with all castor tolerated more water than an all synthetic oil.

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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/15/2012 3:00 AM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: blw

I just learned that turbines also use water injection. When injected before the compressor section it gives a boost in thrust due to the water injection making the air denser. I never thought about turbines in the driving rain either.

Many early jets used distilled water injection and all Harriers,AV-8 a thru c. Cools the nozzle and protects the flaps. I remember watching the deck crews useing a water hose to top them off when I was watching from vultures row. At the time I thought it really strange




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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/15/2012 11:39 PM   
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With castor oil, a 80/20 meth/water mix works well. I also tested 80/20 ethanol/water, also working, but not as well as methanol.
A friend of mine tested 90/10 meth/water in 4-strokes and they became much more docile. All prop throwing tendency was gone.
The secret is using a fresh mix. Synthetic oils often do not mix all that well.

quote:

ORIGINAL: downunder

quote:

ORIGINAL: buzzard350
Well, the finding by the English guy about the water in the fuel at least lets us relax a little when it comes to being obsessive about keeping water out of the fuel- it just doesn't seem to make that much difference.

I don't know how the guy came to that conclusion about 20% water because I did some tests at the field one day by gradually adding some water to the (fresh) fuel, starting the engine and then, if all looked good, I'd fly the plane. At first there was no difference at all until at a certain point the engine suddenly flat refused to even fire except with a prime of fresh fuel and then would stop as soon as the prime ran out. The cause became quickly apparent because all the oil in the fuel had dropped out of solution to the bottom of the tank so the clunk was immersed in oil! The amount of water I'd added to get this to happen was only 4%. I might add that at the critical point the oil instantly fell out of solution.

Further tests at home with heating and cooling samples of fuel showed a straight line graph of the tolerance for water, the colder the fuel the less water was tolerable. Strangely though, I found that a fuel with all castor tolerated more water than an all synthetic oil.



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RE: Made my own glow fuel today - 1/18/2012 10:05 AM   
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Here is a report from the Pratt & Whitney test engineer(Frank Walker is his name) that worked to develop the 50/50 water/methanol injection that uprated the R2800 engine that powered the P47 Thunderbolt from 2,000 Horsepower to 2,800 uprated Horsepower with water/methanol injection. "Water injection worked by reducing cylinder inlet temperature, thereby delaying the
onset of detonation. As the water evaporated in the induction passages of the
engine, it provided a prodigious amount of cooling to the fuel charge due to the
latent heat of vaporization of the water. Cylinder inlet temperatures went from about
350􀁱F to about 100􀁱F. This increased the detonation margin to the point that up to
150 inHg of manifold pressure could be used. When water injection was in use, the
engine was markedly smoother, and the interior of the combustion chambers stayed
extremely clean with no carbon or varnish build-up on the piston crowns, valves, or
ring packs. Frank remembers that “There was no hard carbon whatsoever. You
could clean the top of a piston down to bare metal by wiping it with a cloth”.
German engineers tried water injection (Wassereinspritzung) on their gasoline
engines, but with limited success. Germans, who were very good at building highprecision
pumps, had perfected direct fuel injection for their large aircraft engines.
German engineers injected water directly into the cylinders as well. Since the water
did not have time to evaporate and cool the induction air, the large cylinder inlet
temperature reduction was not achieved. Frank learned of this while reviewing a
report on a captured German aircraft engine."
Keep in mind that these American warbird engines were carburetor equipped and so there was sufficient time to cool the incoming air/fuel charge from the carburetor thru the intake manifold versus the German BMW direct fuel injected engine that had very little time to cool the incoming air charge. The R2800 also was turbocharged and the turbocharger was powerful enough to provide sufficient boost up to 35,000 feet. At lower altitudes, the turbocharger was powerful enough to boost manifold pressure to cause destructive detonation even with 130 octane fuel IF THERE WAS NO WATER/METHANOL INJECTION. The later model of the P47 with water/methanol injection was the fastest propeller driven plane of world war II at 505 MPH. It could also accelerate and dive faster than the enemy plane and escape by outrunning the enemy in a dive and then zooming back up to re-engage at an altitude advantage. They called this the "boom and zoom" tactic.
Larry

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