Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (Full Version)

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wyowindworks -> Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (1/26/2012 6:07 AM)

Well guys.  This is my first thread.  :)

This little video that I made shows the mold prep, bladder prep, and layup for DLG fuselage.  This fuse is 40" and weighs 35 to 43 grams depending on the layup.  It's not highly instructional but help some of you.

Enjoy!

http://vimeo.com/35648020



Scorpion Racing -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (1/26/2012 12:54 PM)

Awesome work as usual Adam! [;)] I do have a couple of questions, what is the purpose of the heat gun during the layup? Are you flash curing the resin prior to adding the Kevlar layers? And on the vinegar clean up, do you just remove the big spots and avoid risking getting it into the layup seam area or do you do a spotless cleanup?

Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us mere mortals! [:D]



wyowindworks -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (1/26/2012 5:21 PM)

I'm a mortal.....just one with lots of practice.  :D

The heat is just used to reduce the viscosity of the resin when wetting out the multiple layers of material in the flap.  I don't use it for the rest of the layup.  If you watch the video closely you can see the resin working into the bubbles and such.

This mold has a resin trap.  As the bladder compacts the layup there is less room for epoxy so it gets pushed out of the mold.  It migrates .25" along the flange and then goes into the trap.  The resin doesn't go past the trap.  When I'm cleaning the flange I'm only cleaning the area outside of the trap.  This makes cleaning up the mold much easier after the part is made.  The resin between the part and the resin in the trap usually comes out with the part.  Clean up is then a breeze.  If I forget to clean the flange then I have scrape and vacuum it off.  Not the end of the world but more timely than cleaning it off while it's still wet.  The vinegar doesn't affect the Frekote mold release.



Crosscheck -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (1/27/2012 1:04 AM)

Double Post,

On a Double Take... WOW ! ! ![:D][:D][:D]



Crosscheck -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (1/27/2012 1:09 AM)

Hi whowindworks,

I enjoyed the video...

Great Works.

You are an Artist...

Take care,
Have fun,
Dave'crosscheck'Fallowfield
Maac 6437
Unabashed Combat Team




darren763 -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (1/28/2012 3:25 PM)

Thanks for sharing your videos. They are a nice tool.

Darren



SCALECRAFT -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (2/4/2012 11:23 PM)

Top Notch.

Steve



BD5wingnut -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (2/6/2012 2:52 AM)

Great series of videos, Adam.

Quick question about the "Stretchlon 200" test. What exactly were you demonstrating? Does the Stretchlon 200 need a release agent applied and what type will stretch with the material. I have looked online and have not found any mention of this, just says compatible with...

Again great work.

Peace, Wolf



wyowindworks -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (2/12/2012 2:36 AM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: BD5wingnut

Great series of videos, Adam.

Quick question about the "Stretchlon 200" test. What exactly were you demonstrating? Does the Stretchlon 200 need a release agent applied and what type will stretch with the material. I have looked online and have not found any mention of this, just says compatible with...

Again great work.

Peace, Wolf


I was demonstrating that epoxy resin sticks to Stretchlon 200.  :D  It was recommended in another thread as a release membrane.  I shot a video showing that epoxy sticks to it.  Normally it's not a problem because you have peel-ply on then release film then breather/bleeder then the vacuum bag film.  The resin that gets stuck to it will release from the mold and part.   The only problem is if there isn't any peel-ply between the part and the vacuum bag.  Then the stretchlon will get stuck to the part.  Peel-ply solves the the problem.  I suppose you could wax the stuff but being that it's a one shot bagging film I wouldn't waste my time.  I considered making bladders from Stretchlon and applying a release agent to it.  Unfortunately, my favorite laminating resin, MGS 285, would melt a hole right through Stretchlon 200.  I contacted Airtech about the melting and they recommend a different film.  They said they would send a sample and never did....I moved and sent my business elsewhere.

Adam




vicman -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (2/12/2012 10:08 PM)

I like your placement of the hot box. Brilliant! and soon to be employed in my shop.

Just goes to show that you never know what people will pick up on.

Great vid, Thanks!



BD5wingnut -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (2/13/2012 5:07 AM)

Adam

Can you explain just a little more detail about the mold closing process? I noticed that you off-set the halves at first, I assume this is to help align the flaps that are sticking up. A much more elegant solution that trying to "tape" the two halves of the fuse in a separate operation after initial cure. Also, it looks like the mold clicks into some registers just prior to clamping. are those the resin channels?

-Wolf



wyowindworks -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (2/21/2012 4:05 PM)


quote:

ORIGINAL: BD5wingnut

Adam

Can you explain just a little more detail about the mold closing process? I noticed that you off-set the halves at first, I assume this is to help align the flaps that are sticking up. A much more elegant solution that trying to "tape" the two halves of the fuse in a separate operation after initial cure. Also, it looks like the mold clicks into some registers just prior to clamping. are those the resin channels?

-Wolf


Wolf, see the attached renders for how the fabric and seam joining is accomplished.

The mold has full length indexing that doubles as a resin channel.  The resin channel keeps the resin for oozing all over and allows the resin to only have to migrate .25" rather than all the way out of the mold.  It also makes the mold clean up easier since the resin doesn't migrate past the resin catch.  This is why you see me clean the mold flanges outside the catch before closing.  This also allows the mold to close a bit further.  The full length keying helps keeps the mold aligned for its 150 expected cycles.  Little keys work for low production work but will not keep a high production mold correctly aligned.




BD5wingnut -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (2/21/2012 4:47 PM)

Good point on the longevity of the molds. Thanks for the renderings, that is what I had visualized and the renderings help others too.

Peace, Wolf



AnthonyW -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (2/29/2012 6:16 PM)

Awesome video, where is the video where you pop it out?



wyowindworks -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (3/4/2012 7:46 AM)

Here is the rest of the footage from the layup video.  It shows the demolding and clean up.

Enjoy.

CLICK HERE TO SEE IT IN HD





Randy Etken -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (3/4/2012 2:05 PM)

Hi Adam
I always enjoy your work. Tell us how you made the tool to clean up seam.
Thanks much!
Randy



wyowindworks -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (3/4/2012 3:32 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: Randy Etken
 Tell us how you made the tool to clean up seam.


I made the trim tool by making the shape in foam, covering the foam with packing tape, and then wraping it with lots of UD carbon and bias cut glass.  Once cure I pushed/tore the foam out of the center.  I sanded and polished the cutting face very smooth and cut a slot in it to receive the flashing.  I trimmed a hole in the top to receive the Dremel.  The dremel and a screw off thread/nut to receive attachments.  The tool has to be very stiff.  If it flexes too much it will over trim into the fuse.  It's kind of diffecult to set up so this dremel and homemade attachment just always live together.  I purchases another dremel for regular stuff.

Adam






proline8000 -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (3/8/2012 5:34 PM)

What epoxy do you use and what temp is required and how long?



wyowindworks -> RE: Fuse Layup and Bladder Video (3/8/2012 5:48 PM)

quote:

ORIGINAL: proline8000

What epoxy do you use and what temp is required and how long?

I use MGS 285.  I cure for the first hour at room temp, then 4 hours at 100*F, then ramp it up to 135*F and hold for at least 12 hours.  MGS 285 will cure just fine at room temp and exceed most resins (West Systems for example) in stiffness and HDT.  If the resin is cured at elevated temps the Tg and HDT will be increased.



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