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RE: aliphatic resin vs cyanoacrylic - 2/28/2012 5:14 AM   
Zor



Posts: 2768
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Joined: 2/23/2009
Last Login: 5/20/2013
From: Ontario, ON, CANADA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: ratshooter

I have tried all the mentioned glues myself. One that has not been mentioned is Weldbond. This is my "white glue" of choice. You use to be able to buy it a Lowes or Home Depot but not any more. I found it at Ace Hardware and bought a 16oz bottle.
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Here is another glue that has not been mentioned.

Made by BERRY BROTHERS ( established 1858 )
Ya _ _ _ Eighteen fifty eight _ _ _ no typing error.

In the days we were making models by the dozens.
The glue was bought in Imperial gallon cans.

I still have models that were all glued with this stuff.
The glue and the balsa still appear in excellent condition.

Just thought I would mention it.

The cup and salt and pepper shakers are to prove that it is not a small can. It really is one impeial gallon of glue. After posting I see that it is actually readable near the bottom of the can.


Zor



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(in reply to ratshooter)
       Post #: 26

RE: aliphatic resin vs cyanoacrylic - 4/17/2012 8:54 PM   
lflf


 

Posts: 90
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Joined: 10/22/2003
Last Login: 5/14/2013
From: salt lake, UT, USA
Status: offline 		I use tite bond which I buy from Home Depot by the gallon. It works great. The only thing I don't use it for is attaching fins, stabilizers, etc., if they are not built into the fuselage with several layers of balsa holding them in. I use epoxy in that case. A tail surface only glued with tite bond will come loose from vibration because ia tite bond glue joint is very brittle. I also use a lot of masking tape to hold things together while drying, such as bent balsa in d-tube construction, etc. Once in a while I use CA for something, but not often. I don't like the smell of CA, and I think tite bond glues joints better as it doesn't have the tendency to soak in. It's also cheap.

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(in reply to chip_MG)
       Post #: 27

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