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RE: Another - 1/2/2013 8:53 PM   
evan-RCU



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Status: offline 		Fins a'la DD, see this pic of my electric...

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RE: Another - 1/2/2013 9:25 PM   
MJD



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quote:

ORIGINAL: evan-RCU

Finally getting aromd to doing more on my build...



It's an MVVS something afaik.. which engine is it?



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RE: Another - 1/2/2013 9:54 PM   
evan-RCU



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Status: offline 		Yes. A .40... Was on a DD for a long time, about 10 years and I got tired of it and gave it to a fellow pilot with the understanding when they crashed it I'd get the motor and radio back so he it goes in a new plane.

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RE: Another - 1/3/2013 4:12 AM   
iron eagel



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quote:

ORIGINAL: evan-RCU

Fins a'la DD, see this pic of my electric...


I should have know, after looking closer at the picture, I can see that you have the wingtips done. I really like the shaping of the wingtips.

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RE: Another - 1/3/2013 9:12 PM   
iron eagel



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Status: offline 		The modification to the hatch and belly pan in order to give me enough room for the battery actually helped the shape a bit. The flat spot on the top and bottom of the plane disappeared and even the cooling tube blends in a bit better. With just a minimum of sanding and the first coat of filler the top is blends into the body a lot better than it did. The sharp angles on each side of the top are gone replaced by a gentle curve. Granted it need a lot more sanding and a bit more filler but I think you can see what I am talking about even in this rough form.

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RE: Another - 1/4/2013 12:07 AM   
combatpigg



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Status: offline 		You beeze a busy mans...!!
Looks like you beeze workin' for Rockwell 'n sheeeeiii........
I don't mess with lightweight spackle any more unless it's indooor free flight and I don't fly indoor free flight. Same goes for the "Model Magic" tubes of what is basically primer paste [brick dust mixed with tolulene]
The new 2 part polyester fillers are almost self leveling and sand at about the same rate as balsa wood. Summit Racing sells this stuff as well as some auto stores. A quart size can will last a lifetime if you do at least some balsa filler carpentry beneath it. It's basically a finish grade of "bondo" that is lower in viscosity than "bondo". Just right for our purposes.


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RE: Another - 1/4/2013 5:02 AM   
iron eagel



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Status: offline 		Thanks...
A dream job for me would have been building models for them, Boeing or Northrup. I still think Boeing coped some of the shape from my stingray for their Phantom Ray.
Tonight I have mostly been making balsa dust just to get an idea of how it will look.
I really should concentrate on making the forms I need to build the tail cone and exhaust nozzle and build it, before I get to carried away with working on the getting all of the blending done but I really wanted to get an idea of how this was going to look. Up until this point the only sanding done has been final trimming for fit of the parts do I could glue them together it nice to at least get started on some of the final shaping. Even with just some sanding I think you can see the final shape starting to emerge.
What particular Mfg. brand of the two part filler have you used and liked, and what is the product name I should look for?

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RE: Another - 1/7/2013 5:16 AM   
iron eagel



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Status: offline 		I managed to tear myself away from sanding and shaping long enough to build the forms for the exit nozzle. So I built the nozzle and installed it into the airframe. With that accomplished I started to plank in the tail cone and here is how it looks now.

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RE: Another - 1/7/2013 7:54 AM   
combatpigg



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Status: offline 		Bondo has a quart sized can with a silver label that they call ULTIMATE. It is easier to sand than the regular stuff. If you limit your fill depth to no deeper than 1/8", then there is a 2 part filler called SPLIT SECOND super lightweight polyester made by US Chenical. I buy it from Summit Racing. This stuff is lower viscosity than regular bondo, so it will fill pin holes and scratches if the depressions and flaws have been blown out real good beforehand.
Use your finger to run a thin smear into all of those joints. Do not attempt to cake it on thickly, just figure on 2 or 3 very thin apps with minimal sanding is the way to go. You can cut the finger off a latex glove to protect your finger if you have bondo-aphobia.
If you don't feather the edge well during application in some spots, place duct tape next to those spots that need to be knocked down aggressively. Lift the tape once you are ready for final feathering. There are commercial shops that do not allow the body men to start out with anything heavier than 80 grit now.


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RE: Another - 1/8/2013 4:07 AM   
iron eagel



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Status: offline 		Thanks!
So many "fillers" out there today are absolute junk.
That split second sounds like a pretty good substitute for red glaze, as long as your careful with it.

The exit nozzle was pretty much the last big hurdle on building this thing as far as I am concerned.
Looking at how the blending is turning out thus far I think it is safe to say that any interference drag on this airframe should be pretty minimal.

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RE: Another - 1/12/2013 3:47 AM   
iron eagel



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Status: offline 		Got the top pretty much shaped now on to finishing the belly.

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RE: Another - 1/12/2013 4:04 AM   
MJD



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Status: offline 		How well does that Mitre Cut work? Good clean cuts?

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RE: Another - 1/12/2013 6:01 PM   
iron eagel



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Status: offline 		It makes a good cut as long as the blade is sharp (single edge razor blade) although it is limited to smaller stock because of how it is set up. The calibration isn't all that great but you can work around that issue. It's a lot cleaner cut than a #11 blade and a bevel square for angle cuts, and using a stop you can cut a lot of same size pieces quickly the pieces for planking the cooling tubes for example. You are limited to a quarter of a inch thick stock no wider than 3/8 for sharp angles and about 1/2 wide if your close to square.

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RE: Another - 1/15/2013 7:43 PM   
iron eagel



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Status: offline 		Well I have the bottom blending roughed in time to build the fins...

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RE: Another - 1/15/2013 9:05 PM   
MJD



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Status: offline 		Nice!

Is that a trainer in the background?

I'm in the process of blending in the nose of a buddy's Demon, 1/64 ply and Epoxolite filler and fillet sanding tools..

For some reason he is using an E-flite Power 32 outrunner. Plenty of power, but it will not be a speed demon. I think 5s on a 10x10 will be about the best setup. It will be a well powered, brisk but not really that fast sport version.

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RE: Another - 1/16/2013 1:17 AM   
combatpigg



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Status: offline 		Paul's photos of his work bench always look too civilized to be true. I never see any blood spatters, no glue globs, burn marks, chisel strikes, "empties" laying around...****..?


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RE: Another - 1/16/2013 1:55 AM   
MJD



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Status: offline 		Must be a photoshop trick. Is there a "auto bench clean" edit function?

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RE: Another - 1/16/2013 2:44 AM   
iron eagel



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quote:

ORIGINAL: MJD

Nice!

Is that a trainer in the background?

I'm in the process of blending in the nose of a buddy's Demon, 1/64 ply and Epoxolite filler and fillet sanding tools..

For some reason he is using an E-flite Power 32 outrunner. Plenty of power, but it will not be a speed demon. I think 5s on a 10x10 will be about the best setup. It will be a well powered, brisk but not really that fast sport version.

That is a box from a old Sterling kit that I use for balsa scraps that I try to use before I cut any new long length stock.
After having used up the last of the hobby lite filler I had, I've been using balsa dust and micro balloons mixed with nitrate dope for filler. I have got to get some of the stuff CP has mentioned to do the finesse work with.
I would think you should get that setup to peak out a bit better than 12k rpm. Should be a fairly quick sport I would think...

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RE: Another - 1/16/2013 3:02 AM   
iron eagel



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ORIGINAL: combatpigg

Paul's photos of his work bench always look too civilized to be true. I never see any blood spatters, no glue globs, burn marks, chisel strikes, ''empties'' laying around...****..?


That's too funny, I cleaned up the bench just before that photo. (I didn't have a clear spot to set any beverages at all.)
And as far as the condition of the bench...
It has a "brand new" top I just put on it before I started this build, the old top had craters in it.

MJD
Yep the crop tool eliminates a lot of clutter.
Man I wish there was an auto clean function.
Heck a couple of photos back you can see my bench is pretty much a shambles.


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RE: Another - 1/21/2013 6:13 PM   
iron eagel



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Status: offline 		I modified the fin structure a bit to use 1/32nd sheathing rather than the 1/16th to reduce the frontal area of the fins a bit more. The additional framing and the fact that the sheathing will also be further strengthened by the composite skin should allow the 1/32 balsa sheathing to serve for this application. Right now the airframe weighs in at 1 lb 3 oz as long as I can keep the weight of the finish down to a minimum the target weight should not be a problem.

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RE: Another - 1/21/2013 7:09 PM   
combatpigg



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Status: offline 		I hope Mike Conners is watching this.. !!
Make sure you get those fins real stiff so the plane doesn't sound like a harmonica when it goes by..!


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RE: Another - 1/21/2013 8:26 PM   
MJD



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Status: offline 		Every one I have built to date has tip fins, and these are glassed both sides with lightweight cloth which continues around the corner and onto the tip. I don't mean to say this is necessary in every case, but it does mean I do not have a data point that says "this will flutter at 175mph, but this won't". If I wuz going really lightweight, I'd probably at least Silkspan/nitrate the fins.

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RE: Another - 1/21/2013 10:19 PM   
combatpigg



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Status: offline 		I think 1.4 or 1.5 oz FG is the lightest I've used for fins. Laminated with either medium CA or epoxy. Using CA is a tearful experience, but it sands down pretty easy. I think Tower is the only place I've found medium CA.
I like the 3 ply idea to make fins out of 1/32" balsa..plus the inner ply gives you a built in centerline to sand down to.
Another idea would be to laminate 1.4 oz cloth to both sides of 1/16" hard balsa sheet and press it perfectly flat over a piece of glass or with a vacuum table, etc.
Orient the wood grain [more or less] vertical when you cut the fins out.
I built a .40 sized fuselage like this and it was plenty strong. Skip the "breather cloth" [for trapping excess resin], just do a nice scraping with a credit card and leave just enough resin to fill the weave. This way you have a perfectly smooth finish that is closer to being ready for paint.


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RE: Another - 1/22/2013 4:04 AM   
iron eagel



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Status: offline 		CP, I Hope Mike would approve to my modifications to his design.
I just hope I haven't screwed the plane up, it's a good little hot rod as it was originally designed..

I hear what you guys are saying...
I hope I haven't shot myself in the foot with this one by opting with the very thin sheathing. I think I am going to try something a bit more exotic if you will in using carbon fiber veil on the wingletts. I ran the grain of the grain of the sheathing parallel to the leading edge of the fin, so the grain is oriented the longest way that the fin extends; hoping that the carbon fiber will give me the needed strength in the vertical. (Well find out if that theory has any merit shortly.)
Right now I am fitting triangle stock to the base of the fin to blend it into the wingtip. I see lots of balsa dust in my future.

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RE: Another - 1/22/2013 5:22 AM   
combatpigg



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Status: offline 		I'll bet you can just add layers of veil until you think it's enough. They ought to be pretty warp resistant when you're done.
The thing about tip fins vs central.......
The central fins have less "built in" alignment issues. Working there near the center ribs the allignment is more "fool proof".
At the tips, you have much less "built in" reference to ensure dead zero and parallel. If you extend a pair of long straight edges that are pressed hard against the tips, then take measurements across them [either side of the plane's centerline]...it might be a scary, moment of truth.
I don't believe I've ever bothered to do this, I just wanted to put a "demon in your head"....


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