E-Flite Blade CP Pro
- RTF
Seller:hhager2 Details:
$500.00
| 11/21/2008
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Posts: 501
Joined: 6/24/2003 From: park city,
KY, USA Status: offline
I am building one as well. It looks great! I cant wait to maiden this bird. I have put off construction for a while so I want to get it up soon. My best guess is that it would fly like a sport plane. good habits.
Posts: 114
Joined: 3/20/2002 From: South Bend,
IN, USA Status: offline
Hi,
I am just to the point of installing the retract servo. In fact, the last thing I did before quitting for the night is mount the 2 small balso blocks for the small servo tray.
I am using a Hitec 77BB for my retract servo. It provides as much torque as the big $ but doesn't break the bank.
I am mounting the servo tomorrow so I will let you know how it goes.
Thanks, Mike
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Posts: 1052
Joined: 2/1/2003 From: BILLERICA, MA, USA Status: offline
Check the washout in the wings. I tried to fly 2 of these and could never get them in the air. Upon inspection of the 2nd plane we realized the out wing sections were turned opposite each other. The mold for the fiberglass center section is made wrong. With improper washout the plane will roll on takeoff. I've got a Jamara P-51D now, much better warbird.
Posts: 43
Joined: 5/8/2003 From: peachtree city, GA, Status: offline
Ziggy did u ever finish your texan? I have one i'm working on and just read about the firewall disaster on another thread. So make sure you reinforce that joint!!
Posts: 1959
Joined: 1/28/2003 From: San Antonio,
TX, USA Status: offline
I have one. I'm glad to report it's flying well. I went with the Hitec 77BB as well for the retract servo and it's working just perfect. I upgraded the gear wires to robart 3/16, but it was kind of a pain, until I got them right, well worth it though. I didn't even 'test' out the stock wires. If I had to do it over again, I would have probably left them stock and replaced them later if needed. Did you see Greg Covey's review and video here on RCU? He did a great job and left the stock gear on which looked good. I emailed him and one thing he did tell me was he added a small washer or two to the inside set of mounting screws that hold the retract mechanism to the wing, helping the wheels to ride straight up and down. In the video, the pilot lands her nicely (on grass) with the stock setup, so just FYI, you may be just fine with the stock setup. Other's here swear by the robart wires that why I immediately upgraded mine. As far as flying she great. Take off are easy, just hold a bit of up elevator on roll out and build up speed, when she's ready (you'll know) she'll climb out with authority. I have a TT91FS with a 14X6 APC with Hitec 422's all around. Turns are nice and crisp, as if she's on rails. I've done a few rolls which are nice and fast. I have my dual rates setup on my radio, so rolls are easy on the highs and for 'normal' flying the lows which are the recommended rates are perfect. Landings aren't too bad either. I just throttle down to idle on my down wind leg, flip the retract switch (so cool), turn back onto final and set her up. As she begins to sink, I input about 2-3 clicks of throttle and settle on the approach. Just before landing, I cut throttle down to idle and flare, causing her to just sit down. If going too fast, of course it'll bounce a bit, so you might want to hold in a bit of up elevator until she comes to a complete stop. Overall the plane gets a thumbs up from me.
FYI, there's a thread in the 'Warbird/Warplanes' section of a pilot who's fire wall came completely off in flight. I think he had a Satio 150 on his which came flying off. I haven't recently checked the thread again, but last update was he has yet to find it still in some tall grass. I would and I did it myself actually (which is standard Operating Procedure for me) reinforce the glue joint between the fire wall and fuse with some epoxy. Some people thin it using rubbing alcohol, I elected not to. I brushed some 2 ton epoxy on there liberally to make sure the joint is nice a strong. I wouldn't worry about the extra couple of ounces of weight, as this plane can handle it.
humm, lets see. Oh, there was a bit of confusion in reference to the CG. Measure back from the leading edge from where it meets the fuse. I need to look at the manual again, but if my memory serves me correctly it's 4 3/4 inches back from there.
Not much more to report. Best of luck. If you need any pics, let me know.
Posts: 327
Joined: 9/16/2003 From: Bend,
OR, USA Status: offline
Hi,
My first time posting here. I've been flying off and on for 20+ years and still am learning. I have the Hanger 9 AT-6 and plan to put my OS FS70II 4-stroke in it. It is within the recommended range for power.............comments?
I have the OS FS70II on a different plane. A GP Easy Sport 40 that weighs 6lb. 4oz. empty of fuel. It has a MAS 13-6 K series prop on it. I fly at half or a little less throttle most of the time and am very comfortable with it. At full throttle, it tachs at 10,500 RPM. My digital fish scale says it has 8lb. 4oz. of thrust. The plane may have unlimited vertical. I just chicken out before it gets there.
Will it fly the T-6? I think so but, I don't own one. The GP ES40 has a fair amount of drag but nothing like that big beautiful round cowl...
Posts: 327
Joined: 9/16/2003 From: Bend,
OR, USA Status: offline
Dave,
Thanks for the comments. I come from an era where you always, always put the top of the power range in an airplane and I've gotten away from that a bit being interested in scale. This is also my first experience with a 4-stroke so I'm a bit excited about it. The plane is beautiful and I already bought the low-profile retract servo for it so sometime in the near future, I may get started on it.
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Hangar 9 AT-6 - 
Hangar 9 AT-6 - 
RE: Hangar 9 AT-6 - 