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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/17/2012 1:49 AM

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well tomorrow i'll be bringing the shockwave back to the shop so i'll be able to refuel and start messing with it again. though few minutes ago i thought i would check the setting of the idle screw and carb so i was watching the video tutorial and then i removed the air filter and turned on the shockwave and remote and ok I see the gap in the carb it looks like it's more than 1mm but, when i refuel it and start it i'll mess with it to get the right setting but, what I noticed was that when I press the brake on the remote or if i accelerate the carb does not move back and forth, the gap doesn't widen and get small like it does in the video tutorial or like it used to (though when it used to move it would also shut off) does this mean that I have the idle screw too tight? or is something else wrong?

EDIT: answered my own question, i was looking at it and it seems that when i had taken off the engine the rod from the throttle disconnected from the carb itself so that's the reason the carb wasn't moving when i pressing the throttle, once i connected it, it's moving again. i have it set now so there's a gap and when i accelerate it fully opens but, when i press the brake it doesn't close it stays at that open gap, this is correct?

Yes you want some gap under braking. You'll need to adjust it better while running. Even though you see the gap right now while applying brakes it may still be too small and act like it wants to stall. So don't be to concerned with it until you can hear it.

So you had your needles so turned around that I think it might be best to start from scratch. Don't let the adjustments intimidate you. Now that your getting a good understanding of them it will be pretty simple to adjust from factory. If you think everything is alright then go ahead and try to tune it. But if not its always a simple thing to bring both needles out flush and adjust from there. Since you've already broke the engine in it should be quick and painless. I would again bring the LSN out flush and then start around 1/2 turn in. I would start with the HSN flush and just fire it up. It should be spitting fuel out of the exhaust. Give it a small 1/8 turn in and try to run it. If it will run, make a few passes and then give it another 1/8 turn in. Keep doing this until you hear it clear out. Remember the engine is still new. It will get faster over time. Right now I would just get it to run decent without running to hot for anther 3-5 tanks.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/17/2012 1:55 AM

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Ok, got it. Yes I have already set the LSN/HSN to what you suggested, just waiting until tomorrow so I can refuel and then I'll start it up and adjust how you stated 1/8 at a time, I think I'm starting to get the hang of it now and much less intimidated than I was at first. We'll see how it goes tomorrow!

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/17/2012 2:02 AM

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Ok, got it. Yes I have already set the LSN/HSN to what you suggested, just waiting until tomorrow so I can refuel and then I'll start it up and adjust how you stated 1/8 at a time, I think I'm starting to get the hang of it now and much less intimidated than I was at first. We'll see how it goes tomorrow!

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Well I know you went through a lot and we all did, believe me. But unless you have a buddy helping you with this stuff it's the only way learn it. Everyone says "don't get those needles out of whack" but it's really not that big a deal. I'm sure your next tank you'll see it a lot clearer than you did last week. Also don't forget about the pull start. Remember to get a good feel for the tension before you prime it. If the starter starts getting tight..."IT'S GETTING TIGHT"! Pull the glow plug and clear the engine. Easier than fixing/replacing your pull start.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/17/2012 3:50 AM

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yeah only thing is nobody else i know is into rc i got into it because it's work related and now is turning into a hobby/obsession, you've been really helpful and those redcat tutorials are also really helpful just have to keep watching them over and over. about the starter getting tight, i think it got like that because of the after run oil initially i remember you mentioned that it would get difficult and i noticed it immediately when i tried to put in a few drops of nitro it's difficult to pour out a couple drops out of the fuel bottle, maybe i need pick up an eye dropper and probably put too much then the fuel was leaking all out the exhaust and i probably flooded it at that time. so i'm thinking to not put the after run oil anymore but, the thing is that i only run it on the weekends so i don't know if i'm going to end up rusting it if i don't.

also about the starter if i have to replace it if it keeps getting stuck like it was then i'm thinking to replace it with the electric starter, have you heard good/bad things about these? i wonder if the engine is flooded if it will still try to forcefully start it and perhaps break something or if it feels the pressure and won't turn, i think that was my only concern. other than that i'm pretty tired of trying to start it though i've been doing it a lot more in the initial setup while getting everything setup, and tuned maybe in the future i won't have to do it as much but, my hand gets pretty tired and i even had a small cut on the side of my finger from the cord. so i was thinking of going the electric route, it seems pretty simple to replace it.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/17/2012 4:04 AM

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yeah only thing is nobody else i know is into rc i got into it because it's work related and now is turning into a hobby/obsession, you've been really helpful and those redcat tutorials are also really helpful just have to keep watching them over and over. about the starter getting tight, i think it got like that because of the after run oil initially i remember you mentioned that it would get difficult and i noticed it immediately when i tried to put in a few drops of nitro it's difficult to pour out a couple drops out of the fuel bottle, maybe i need pick up an eye dropper and probably put too much then the fuel was leaking all out the exhaust and i probably flooded it at that time. so i'm thinking to not put the after run oil anymore but, the thing is that i only run it on the weekends so i don't know if i'm going to end up rusting it if i don't.

also about the starter if i have to replace it if it keeps getting stuck like it was then i'm thinking to replace it with the electric starter, have you heard good/bad things about these? i wonder if the engine is flooded if it will still try to forcefully start it and perhaps break something or if it feels the pressure and won't turn, i think that was my only concern. other than that i'm pretty tired of trying to start it though i've been doing it a lot more in the initial setup while getting everything setup, and tuned maybe in the future i won't have to do it as much but, my hand gets pretty tired and i even had a small cut on the side of my finger from the cord. so i was thinking of going the electric route, it seems pretty simple to replace it.

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The roto type starters are another personal argument amongst many. I don't like them. I have friends that swear by them and think I'm crazy for still using a pull start. I know right now the pull start is killing you, but when your engine is tuned right it will fire right up. As far as pouring fuel into the engine, you can use the little rubber cap on your fuel squirt bottle. I hate to give you bad advice but I think using after run oil for 1 week of down time is overkill and not really necessary.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/17/2012 5:50 PM

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well i believe i got the LSN correct since it passes the pinch test, starts reving and then engine quit. still having some issue with HSN and idle, i'm turning HSN slowly in 1/8 turns and started seeing smoke, the thing is that the more I turn it the faster the wheels start spinning and engine starts reving (as it should as far as i know since performance is greater when HSN is turned in i believe) so then i have to adjust idle screw every time i adjust HSN.

on the last run i just turned down the throttle on the remote it's almost all the way down but, at this level wheels aren't turning and i can press brake and engine doesn't quit, on this last run it was going really fast when i would do turns it would kind of skid on the concrete, was going faster than i've seen it, before I was kind of thinking that's not going as fast i would like but, this time it was really fast i was finally satisifed with the speed. the thing is that the engine ended up quitting, actually i just checked and the tank is empty so maybe that's the reason it quit. i thought it was since i didn't set idle correctly, the fuel is running out so quickly but, hopefully once I have HSN setup properly it won't go as fast.

now in other bad news i offically broke the starter when i pulled it the string completely came out. i'm going to open it up and see if i can fix it or else i have an extra that i'll replace it with. it was getting much easier to start towards the end, i was able to start it in one or two good pulls.

is it ok if the throttle on the radio is set that low as long as the engine doesn't quit when braking or at idle? or does the throttle trim knob on the radio have to be in the middle and then the idle screw set so that it's the correct setting? or can I just turn it down on the radio and it's good enough? since i think i would have to pull the HSN back out in order for the wheels to not turn with where the idle screw is set. unless i need to just keep messing with the idle screw.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/17/2012 6:06 PM

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well it just keeps getting better and better lol looks like i've stripped out two screws on the engine. stripping out is when they are in too tight and when you start trying to unscrew them the threading or whatever it is on the screw where the drill bit fits disappears so the drill bit can't fit correctly and it just keeps spinning?

do you have any recommendations on how to get these out? lol

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/17/2012 8:43 PM

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You should set the trim adjustment on the radio to where the throttle servo is at zero or center. This is neutral trim. Trim back more and brakes begin to apply. Trim forward and throttle is applied. A good place to set your idle is near neutral. It's normal to have to bump your trim up a little to start and warm up, then you back it off after a few passes. Again, if you back it down too much you will notice the car is beginning to apply brakes when you let off of throttle. If you've stripped the screws you will have to either drill them out and re-tap the holes or just take an oversized bit and drill the heads off of the screw and replace the engine mount. You can remove the mount from engine itself. Try to find yourself a good set of screwdrivers. The cheap ones will strip screws easily. Also you might bring an old one into your LHS and replace them with allen head screws.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/17/2012 11:59 PM

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well i ended up just removing the pull starter with the engine still mounted on, i was able to reach into the screws with the screwdriver. when i dismantled it, again i screwed up only the string came un-done or the knot went un-done so the string came out and the coil was in the correct place but, i didn't know thought the string went in there or something and removed it and i spent probably an hour or more and it's so difficult to get it in there and i still haven't so i just put on the 2nd starter i was only able to screw in 3 of the screws but, it's connected well enough i guess i was able to start it again.

ok so tomorrow i'll try to mess with the idle screw and HSN more to get it to where i can keep the throttle trim in the middle/neutral. how i have it set now it goes really fast, i can't really tell if brakes are being applied or not it doesn't feel like it but, i suppose it is if that's what happens when you lower the trim and i don't want to mess anything up so i'll continue to try and adjust it.

so i should just leave the LSN as it is? and just adjust HSN and idle screw? i guess i'll bring it back out flush and then what do you recommend the idle screw to be at when i start off, tight down or back up far? which do you think I should adjust first HSN then idle? or do you have a recommended way how to adjust both of them at the same time? since they seem to go together if i adjust one HSN it seems I have to adjust idle screw/throttle or the setting changes.

it still does seem like i'm burning fuel quickly and it seems to turn off when the gas is low it won't be completely empty i guess about 1/8 full, is this normal for the engine to quit when the gas is low but, not empty?

i'm going to go get some needle nose pliers and continue messing with this other starter i have to see if i can get it to fixed just for the learning experience, even if i got it to work i don't think i can use it for long since the string near the handle seems to be getting thin i guess from rubbing against the throttle rod
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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/18/2012 12:03 AM

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oh one more question when you're driving it and if you want to go super fast can you increase the throttle trim to do that? or should you not do that? you should have the HSN and idle screw set correctly so it's at a high speed without having to increase throttle trim for more speed?

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/18/2012 4:44 AM

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Ok let's leave the LSN alone for now. Next time you start it, check your trim adj first. Have it so it's at zero and check your carb. It should be in the closed position meaning just that small gap showing. If the car is stalling or trying to stall under braking or just idling then turn your idle screw in to increase it. Do this with the car running and warmed up. Yes the HSN will effect the idle so try to get it warmed up first. If its running good and your happy with the top end then leave the HSN where it's at. Now go ahead and adjust your idle. Obviously if it just keeps stalling you can still turn in on your idle screw a little from the start to try and help keep it running. You don't bring the idle screw out flush or run it in all the way. If you think you really screwed up your idle you can always adjust it with the car off just to get in the ballpark. Put your finger on the rotory part if the carb, now turn in on the idle screw. You will actually feel the carb open and your gap will increase. Try to set your gap to where you just see a little bit showing when looking down into the carb. As far as the trim giving you more speed, it will not. Think of it this way. Imagine the throttle having ten positions, 0 being closed and 10 being wide open. The trim adj increases your throttle from position 0 to position 3 without squeezing the throttle on the radio. So it will not give you more throttle, it will just not let the throttle return to 0 if the trim is turned up while running. Also when adjusting the idle you will probably be making 1/2 turn adjustments to notice a difference.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/18/2012 4:53 AM

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Ok I just re-read post 81. It seems like your only real issue at this point is the car sees to be running fine with the trim bumped up a bit but it tends to stall under braking or when idling if you back the trim back down? If this is correct it sounds like your only issue is in fact the idle. It's not so much a big deal that your running on trim but the fact that the car will always try to be turning wheels if you can't back the trim down. So I would just run it the way you have it setup and then keep adjusting your idle in while baking off your trim until you have a good idle without it trying to drive away on you.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/18/2012 5:29 AM

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well i think all in all it is running fine now but, yes trying to set the idle screw so that the throttle is in neutral is what i'm trying to do. actually at first what you stated was happening but, now I have to keep the throttle trim DOWN not UP, meaning i have it turned more to the counterclockwise where you said brakes are applied. at first it was a lot more but, i'm really trying to recall adjusting it a bit more and getting it closer to neutral not as much as it was before.

when i start it i just back down the trim counter clockwise to stop the tires from spinning and the revving and then i just leave it as it is, it really didn't stop too much after the latest settings but, one time i picked it up, and i think 2 more times when it stopped when i came down from high speed but, all those times the tank was getting close to empty though not completely empty so I'm not sure if it was because of the idling or if it was since the fuel was running low.

i'm going to continue to adjust the settings tomorrow and see what happens. once i get the throttle to completely neutral then ill start it up and it's revving and tires are moving i'll back out of the idle screw a 1/2 turn out, if it stalls or the brake issue occurs then I'll try to make the HSN more lean. since i think i remember as i was doing something simliar yesterday it would start revving more every time I increased HSN.

If the engine quits how do I know if it's due to low fuel or idle screw setting? so that i'm not continually messing with it if it's really the fuel being low. like i said there is still fuel in there and not just a few drops but, i mean i'd say roughly maybe an 1/8 tank not too much. engine didn't quit sitting at idle from start or pressing the brake while i'll at idle. happenend during running and i think one time i hit something and then it stayed on for a few seconds then shut off. the other time i just picked it up and it shut off after doing a few high passes and fuel had became low but, not empty.

also I think my HSN is probably not lean enough yet since the fuel is being spent in about 5 minutes. Continues fast passes back/forth i don't think it's lasting more than 5 minutes. maybe once i back out of the idle screw I'll increase HSN to make it more lean and maybe it will last longer. It should last 15 min? I tried to do the heat/spit test, it doesn't sizzle at any time, at one point it was taking to long to evaporate so that's a sign it's too rich so then i adjusted it a bit, and then i think it looked like it started evaporting faster like once the spit got on there i could see it drying. but maybe it's still not lean enough, since i shouldn't be going through fuel that fast?

the other thing is that before when i was trying to adjust the idle screw i tried it like you said and after i had started it i removed the air filter and fuel was splashing out so i couldn't look inside, so that's a clear indication that the idle need is too far out correct? it needs to be tightened it since the gap is too big that's the reason fuel is splashing out correct? i think i fixed this but, i'm not sure i'll double check tomorrow, if this happens then definately turn it in more correct? maybe this is the reason that it's revving so fast and i have to turn down the throttle on the remote since the gap must be too big. if it's set correctly and i take the filter oil off the carb, should there be any sign of fuel coming out or not?

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Ok I just re-read post 81. It seems like your only real issue at this point is the car sees to be running fine with the trim bumped up a bit but it tends to stall under braking or when idling if you back the trim back down? If this is correct it sounds like your only issue is in fact the idle. It's not so much a big deal that your running on trim but the fact that the car will always try to be turning wheels if you can't back the trim down. So I would just run it the way you have it setup and then keep adjusting your idle in while baking off your trim until you have a good idle without it trying to drive away on you.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/18/2012 5:33 AM

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should i be seeing smoke when it's in idle? or only when throttle is pressed? since i'm starting to see smoke now when it drives. just so i have an idea when i'm tuning hsn if I should see smoke in idle and if i don't that means i don't have it set correctly.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/18/2012 2:17 PM

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You usually don't see much smoke at idle, if it's very rich you will just notice fuel splatter on the ground near the exhaust tip at idle. Also when it comes to HSN versus idle screw, Remember when you said if its reving you'll turn the idle screw out, turning it out will decrease idle but will also allow the barrel to close under braking and stall so keep an eye on that as well. Turning in the HSN will lean the engine and cause idle to increase but you should not have to adjust your idle every time you touch the HSN. I'd say if your burning a tank in 5 minutes you are probably correct about being too rich. You should get approximately 10-12 minutes out of a tank.

As far as it stalling, these engines aren't perfect. It shouldn't stall because the fuel is just low. A lot of times if it's too rich it will tend to stall more easily. Sounds like you have the spit test figured out. Just keep an eye on your heat when turning in the HSN. Sounds like your close to it and small adjustments will get you where you want to be.

From what it sounds like I think all you'll need to do is check your trim and fire it up. Don't be too concerned if your not at dead zero on your trim. If the car is running good, than its ok. There are many variables to the trim. You may need to adjust the throttle linkage itself to get the trim perfect. It's not a big deal. The bottom line is the trim is just there to help you hold the throttle a bit while trying to start it and keep your idle up when it's cold. If its doing this for you and you can back it down once the engine is warmed up and it's not dragging your brakes if you lift the car off the ground, then it's fine where it's at.

You'll get into the fine tuning of all the little aspects of your buggy as you gain some runtime under your belt. The most common is getting good braking and good idle. Don't beat yourself up about where the trim is set. If its working, go have fun with it. The rest will come over time.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/18/2012 8:40 PM

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finally things seem to be on the right track!! i think i got it tuned properly now, the throttle is in neutral when i run it and and engine doesn't quit when i brake or at idle only when gas gets low or empty. i think HSN is set correctly now as well since the fuel tank is lasting about 15 min. i timed it on the last run since start and it went 16 min. i hope it's not too lean i did the spit test and it didn't sizzle started drying in i suppose what seemed normal, will do that test again haven't been doing it that often since i can't stop running it lol i keep refueling it tank after tank and keep running it hope it's ok to do that.

thing is i'm still having issues starting it, not sure if im' pressing down too hard on glow ignitor and messing it up or what last night when i put it to charge i noticed that when i put the end of the charger inside the ignitor it doesn't stay in there the sides expanded or bent outwards so i have to put it all the way inside where the rubber part is. so anyway it takes me many tries to get it to start. i have to put on gloves now since my hand starts hurting from holding the glow ignitor and pulling the starter. i don't know what the deal is with this, yesterday by the end of the day it was getting much easier to start it but, today even after 5 or 6 runs i suppose each time i refuel i seem to go through the difficulty of starting it.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/19/2012 1:37 AM

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finally things seem to be on the right track!! i think i got it tuned properly now, the throttle is in neutral when i run it and and engine doesn't quit when i brake or at idle only when gas gets low or empty. i think HSN is set correctly now as well since the fuel tank is lasting about 15 min. i timed it on the last run since start and it went 16 min. i hope it's not too lean i did the spit test and it didn't sizzle started drying in i suppose what seemed normal, will do that test again haven't been doing it that often since i can't stop running it lol i keep refueling it tank after tank and keep running it hope it's ok to do that.

thing is i'm still having issues starting it, not sure if im' pressing down too hard on glow ignitor and messing it up or what last night when i put it to charge i noticed that when i put the end of the charger inside the ignitor it doesn't stay in there the sides expanded or bent outwards so i have to put it all the way inside where the rubber part is. so anyway it takes me many tries to get it to start. i have to put on gloves now since my hand starts hurting from holding the glow ignitor and pulling the starter. i don't know what the deal is with this, yesterday by the end of the day it was getting much easier to start it but, today even after 5 or 6 runs i suppose each time i refuel i seem to go through the difficulty of starting it.

I'm not sure if your not getting your igniter all the way on or it just isn't seating right on the glow pluq. They don't just slip on, you do have to angle it around a little for it to fully seat onto the glow plug.

I"m a little worried that you say your hand hurts from holding the igniter down. I'm wondering if the engine is close to being flooded when your starting. It would explain your pull start issue and hold down issue. It should not take that much force to pull the pull start. Be sure that your not over priming.

As far as it possibly being too lean, if your spit is taking at least a full 3-4 seconds to evaporate, you should be alright. Think about picking up a temp gauge. Your LHS should have some inexpensive one's for around $20. Re-starting can always take a few extra pulls especially if you've shut it down by blocking the exhaust.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/19/2012 1:50 AM

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well i think i'm squeezing on the ignitor handle too hard without thinking about it that's how that hand hurts sometimes.the starer does feel tight sometimes (but not as much as that day when it was for sure flooded, where every pull would pull the rc) i guess maybe it's since the engine is over primed then, it's usually not super easy to pull it there's one or two tough notches from start after those it gets easy, sometimes during so many start up attempts i'll get a couple really smooth pulls and the engine or wherever the sound comes from kind of purrs and then usually after a few more of these it will start. this is usually a sign to me that it's about to start i start getting excited when i hear this lol

i can't tell when it's too primed or not primed enough, in the video tutorial it says to prime it to cover the exaust and pull it a few times but, that doesn't seem to do anything or i can't tell if it's doing anything, so i end up removing the tube that connects to the exaust and blow into it to get fuel moving to the engine from the other tube.

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ORIGINAL: Dads like rc too

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ORIGINAL: rcenth

finally things seem to be on the right track!! i think i got it tuned properly now, the throttle is in neutral when i run it and and engine doesn't quit when i brake or at idle only when gas gets low or empty. i think HSN is set correctly now as well since the fuel tank is lasting about 15 min. i timed it on the last run since start and it went 16 min. i hope it's not too lean i did the spit test and it didn't sizzle started drying in i suppose what seemed normal, will do that test again haven't been doing it that often since i can't stop running it lol i keep refueling it tank after tank and keep running it hope it's ok to do that.

thing is i'm still having issues starting it, not sure if im' pressing down too hard on glow ignitor and messing it up or what last night when i put it to charge i noticed that when i put the end of the charger inside the ignitor it doesn't stay in there the sides expanded or bent outwards so i have to put it all the way inside where the rubber part is. so anyway it takes me many tries to get it to start. i have to put on gloves now since my hand starts hurting from holding the glow ignitor and pulling the starter. i don't know what the deal is with this, yesterday by the end of the day it was getting much easier to start it but, today even after 5 or 6 runs i suppose each time i refuel i seem to go through the difficulty of starting it.

I'm not sure if your not getting your igniter all the way on or it just isn't seating right on the glow pluq. They don't just slip on, you do have to angle it around a little for it to fully seat onto the glow plug.

I"m a little worried that you say your hand hurts from holding the igniter down. I'm wondering if the engine is close to being flooded when your starting. It would explain your pull start issue and hold down issue. It should not take that much force to pull the pull start. Be sure that your not over priming.

As far as it possibly being too lean, if your spit is taking at least a full 3-4 seconds to evaporate, you should be alright. Think about picking up a temp gauge. Your LHS should have some inexpensive one's for around $20. Re-starting can always take a few extra pulls especially if you've shut it down by blocking the exhaust.

< Message edited by rcenth -- 3/19/2012 2:14 AM >

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Post #: 93

RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/19/2012 2:26 PM

carslover

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you have to put your finger over the exhuast, and pull a few times, you will see your fuel start moving through the lines

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/21/2012 6:52 PM

rcenth

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Is it ok to use 16% nitro fuel instead of 20% with the shockwave? what would the difference be? what it be noticeable if you're just playing for fun and not taking it to a race track? i found a better deal on 16% than 20% that's why I was wondering.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/23/2012 12:12 AM

rcenth

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also what do you think about adding a fuel filter to the shockwave? it says in the video tutorial it's recommended but, it didn't say to in the instructions so I didn't do it.

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/23/2012 1:29 AM

Dads like rc too

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Sorry but I don't know too much about 16 percent. I run 20 percent I'm my small blocks and big block and have never had any problems. Medium plug in the small blocks and hot plug in the big block. As far as the fuel filter goes many people use them. I have not but am thinking about trying one out. I've had dirty carb issue in the past and have one right now in my Monsoon's big block. I have to flick the throttle a few times to get it to completely idle down when coming off a high speed run even though the barrel has returned to the idle position.

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Post #: 97

RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/23/2012 6:37 AM

carslover

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fuel filter is a definite thing you should install, i wouldn't run any of my cars without it, and i would not run 16% the cars are built for 20% like i have said before, if your in the business of saving money your really in the wrong hobby, i run 20% and a medium glow plug in my tornado s30 and volcano s30, and in my monsoon i run 25% with a medium plug in the winter, and a cold plug in the summer

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/23/2012 6:39 AM

carslover

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RE: glow plug included with shockwave? - 3/25/2012 4:43 AM

rcenth

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Ok, thanks for the info. I'll stick with the 20%. About saving money, I have a natural habit to do that, I'm in business. It doesn't mean that I'm not going to pursue my hobby if things get expensive but, it's just a habit of nature for me to take advantage of savings when possible. So, I just ask, nothing is going to be a deal breaker.

Also, I'll definately get some fuel filters next time, I only drive mine on the wekends but, when I do it's practically all day several hours.

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