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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/25/2012 10:28 PM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		Remove the tail surface from the vacuum bag.

Trim off the extra fiberglass cloth using a sanding block and sandpaper.

Make sure the hinge side is down and mark the movable surfaces (about 7" x 1").

In front of the movable surface, cut a slot for the hinge. This can be done with a router or with an exacto knife, as shown here.

Use a Dremel cutoff wheel to gradually work through the balsa to the hinge.

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< Message edited by sahartman21 -- 3/26/2012 1:07 AM >

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/25/2012 10:31 PM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		The hinged surface was not sealed so a small amount of finishing epoxy was mixed and applied.

The surface must be sealed or the surface will have pinholes during the painting process.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/27/2012 12:09 PM   
scottfl78



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Status: offline 		I am at a stand still until I get some push rods for the tail. I don't want to sheet the top until I have that done. I have the Wheels, JETT tank, motor, servos etc. All I need is engine mount, reciever and some monokote. I am really glad you did this thread.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/27/2012 1:52 PM   
GSJames



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quote:

ORIGINAL: scottfl78

I am at a stand still until I get some push rods for the tail. I don't want to sheet the top until I have that done. I have the Wheels, JETT tank, motor, servos etc. All I need is engine mount, reciever and some monokote. I am really glad you did this thread.


Scott: Go over to Roy's Hobby and have them get you the 1/8" OD carbon tubes from CST. They fit a 2-56 rod. I know that he has them in stock because I just bought some from them. Also buy a length of aluminum tubing that will just fit over the carbon tube. Then follow the directions on Darroll Cady's website on pushrod construction. Call me if you need any help.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/27/2012 3:39 PM   
daven



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Status: offline 		Gary, Scott,

I have never used the 1/8" tube over the CF tubes and never had an issue, just not sure it is necessary.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/27/2012 4:54 PM   
fizzwater2


 

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Status: offline 		I've had a grand total of one CF pushrod failure - the end started to split a bit, the wire came loose, instant re-kit. The aluminum sleeve over the end helps keep that from happening. I use 5/32" aluminum tube, it slips right over the 1/8" CF tube.



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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/27/2012 5:40 PM   
diggs_74



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Status: offline 		I've never had any issues with it either.. A couple notches cut in the rod and some 5 min epoxy.. So far, so good.


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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/27/2012 5:57 PM   
GSJames



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Status: offline 		I had one start to split on me before I started using the aluminum tubing so I started using it. No problems since then, so I just use it as a precaution. The additional weight and work is insignificant. I also use the "rubber toughened" CA that the RC Car guys use to glue on their tires. So far, so good.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/27/2012 6:25 PM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		If you are planning on using internal pushrods consider widening the tail with a 3/8" wide piece of balsa block. See some of the early pictures in the thread for more detail.

This modification is not needed if your pushrods exit the fuselage prior to connecting to the movable surfaces.

< Message edited by sahartman21 -- 4/4/2012 2:19 AM >

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/29/2012 2:09 AM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		The kit has built up wing tips. These should be used on a wing covered with film.

I'm going to fiberglass the wing and therefore solid balsa (contest grade) is a better choice.

These were cut out of a 3" x 2" x 12" contest grade (very light) balsa block.

Before these were shaped they weighed in at 1.7 ounces. After shaping they weigh about 1 ounce for the pair.

Some of the modelers are now using molded fiberglass tips, which is also an acceptable method.

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< Message edited by sahartman21 -- 3/30/2012 2:53 AM >

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/29/2012 2:11 AM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		I glued the tips on with Gorilla Glue.

They are held in place with masking tape until the glue dries.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/30/2012 2:00 AM   
scottfl78



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Status: offline 		These instructions suck. How deep chordwise are the ailerons supposed to be? I see they are 10" but then it says:

"Now, the ailerons must be cut out. Make two marks on each wing panel at 8" and 18" measured from the wing tips on each side of the wing. Do this on the top and bottom of the both panels. These marks will be the 10" ailerons."

Got it..

"Measure from the trailing edge of the wing back 2 3/16" in three places between the marks made at 8" and 18". Now CAREFULLY using a straight edge, cut out the ailerons."

These ailerons can't be more than an inch right? What is 2 3/16"?

Thanx

PS Had a few beers...


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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/30/2012 2:24 AM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		Well, at least there are some directions. Most of these smaller kit companies don't even bother with instructions.

If you follow the directions it ends up making ailerons about 1 3/4" deep by about 10" wide.

Cutting at 2 3/16" from the trailing edge allows you to remove 3/8" from the thick section. You then glue a 3/16" thick piece of balsa on the thick section. Another piece of 3/16" thick balsa is glued to cover the bare foam that is exposed after cutting off the ailerons.


I'm going to install skin hinges and glass my wing. This is relatively straight forward if you can get Gary James to help. See the following thread:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10592129




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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/30/2012 2:37 AM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		The wing tip was slotted and a piece of 1/64" thick piece of plywood was glued in place.

The plywood will later give you a reference on where to trim the wood down to.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/30/2012 2:39 AM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		The blocks are then trimmed to be flush with the thickness of the wing.



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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/30/2012 2:42 AM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		Draw a line about 1/2" from the glue joint.

Use a knife or similar to shape the wood to the line.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/30/2012 2:44 AM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		A sanding block is next used to round the tip to the desired shape.

The wing with solid balsa wing tips weighs about 11.5 ounces. The shaped tips weigh about 1 ounce for a pair.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/30/2012 2:50 AM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		I had a few dings that needed filling. Lightweight Spackle works fine to fill the low spots.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/30/2012 3:29 AM   
scottfl78



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quote:

ORIGINAL: sahartman21

Well, at least there are some directions. Most of these smaller kit companies don't even bother with instructions.

If you follow the directions it ends up making ailerons about 1 3/4'' deep by about 10'' wide.

Cutting at 2 3/16'' from the trailing edge allows you to remove 3/8'' from the thick section. You then glue a 3/16'' thick piece of balsa on the thick section. Another piece of 3/16'' thick balsa is glued to cover the bare foam that is exposed after cutting off the ailerons.


I'm going to install skin hinges and glass my wing. This is relatively straight forward if you can get Gary James to help. See the following thread:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=10592129





I see. I guess it is there just hard to understand. The word Aileron makes me think of the piece I cut off not the inset created by cutting the ailerons out.


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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/31/2012 7:07 AM   
Q500


 

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Status: offline 		Just wondering, does anyone know what airfoil they are using?

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/31/2012 1:36 PM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		The airfoil is a 66-12, which is the same as used on a lot of today's current generation of models.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/31/2012 2:45 PM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		Test fit the wing and make sure everything lines up.

Verify by checking the measurement from each side.

Next drill holes for the 3/4" diameter dowel inserts.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/31/2012 7:28 PM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		Stick a piece of electrical tape over the holes while gluing the dowel pieces in place.

Trim pieces of dowel and glue them in place with 30 minute epoxy.

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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/31/2012 7:29 PM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		While the glue was drying sand the rest of the wing with 220 grit paper.

Use a tack rag or equal to remove the dust.



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RE: Intimidator II Construction Thread - 3/31/2012 7:34 PM   
sahartman21


 

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Status: offline 		Spray a small amount of 3M77 on the tips and tack on some 2 ounce fiberglass cloth.

Cut a piece of window sheer about 2 inches wider than the ailerons and tack this in place where the ailerons are located. A combination of the window sheer and fiberglass cloth will make the hinge.

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