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kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 4/10/2012 4:28 PM   
godowar


 

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ALCON,

FYSA - My parts finally arrived from Germany.  It appears customs wanted to open my boxes to see what all the hoopla was about!  LOL!!!  So I am assuming that was my delay.

But ...

I have the tank.
I have the Hull + all suspension items + metal gears + metal track. (AFV Model Hull Upgrade)
I have 1/16 scale Smoke Grenade Launchers (AFV Model correct scale grenade launchers)

All I need to do now is police up my remaining items.
ELMOD ECO MFU
ELMOD Tamiya adapter
Tam Leo 2A6 Traverse motor
Tam Leo 2A6 Traverse ring
Tam Leo Recoil Unit
Tam Leo 2A6 Elevation Unit
Tam Leo Barrel
Tam Upper Hull
Tam Stabilizer

Option 1) Go Airsoft -or- Option 2) Go with High Voltage Unit for a Muzzle Flash.  I am equally torn on this .... 50/50.  Grrr!  Decisions Decisions!

Then I need to police up the ChumWai metal pieces parts:
Headlights
Drivers Hatch
Loaders Hatch
TC's Hatch
Thermal Imaging Shroud
(Possibly Air Cleaner cover area)
Lift Points
Tow Hooks

Then some pieces parts for fluff.  Ruck Sacks, ammo boxes, duffel bags, MRE cases, Tarp, etc.

Transmitter, and Batteries.   But I am getting there!!!  WOOOOOHOOOOO!!!!!!!

I am getting excited to kick this project off, but I want all the parts before I begin.  /sigh/  This is taking too long!  HAHAHA!!! 
In the immortal words of Mr. Miagi "Patience Daniel san".

War and Peace,
GoDOWaR

P.S. I took pictures of what the kit included.  I will upload them tonight when I get home from work.



< Message edited by godowar -- 5/13/2012 2:46 AM >


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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 4/10/2012 4:40 PM   
godowar


 

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Oh, and I know this is not an original build ... But what got me all fired up to do this, and the inspiration came from them.
Almost all of what I am doing is copying the great work DAK did to their M1A2 SEP.
A link to their build can be found here:
http://www.desertarmor.com/DAK_PROJECTS/M1A2_SEP_w_TUSK.html
 
I am going a bit deeper into the build in some area's (IE: More metal parts), plus the AFV Model Hull upgrade, and metal tracks.  But the bulk of what I am doing is trying to replicate their project but mine will be an M1A1.

Question for Ethan if he see's this post. 
How Critical is the Tamiya Leo Speaker box to the function of the turret ring/traverse ability?   Do I need to police one up and glue it to the hull?  

I was thinking of trying to secure the turret traverse ring to the upper polystyrene sheet on the AFV Hull Kit.   But ...  I won't know if that will work until I am much deeper into the build. 

War and Peace,
GoDOWaR

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 4/10/2012 7:28 PM   
Panther G


 

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For the price of all those upgrades you really should have just bought the Tamiya LEO. Not to mention all the custom work that will be needed to incorporate the Tamiya components. The HE is not even close to the Tamiya as far as mounting points.
 Good luck. I'll be watching.


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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 4/10/2012 7:45 PM   
godowar


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Panther G

For the price of all those upgrades you really should have just bought the Tamiya LEO. Not to mention all the custom work that will be needed to incorporate the Tamiya components. The HE is not even close to the Tamiya as far as mounting points.
 Good luck. I'll be watching.



Panther G,

Yes I agree with you, it *WOULD* have been cheaper.  But this is my way of making an Ode to my service while I was a soldier. 
Originally I started out on M60A3, and then in late 1988 we transitioned to the M1A1 while I was stationed in Germany.  Alpha Company, 5/77th Armor, 8th Infantry Division.

So yes it would have been cheaper, but a Leo is not the tank I served on.  Eventually when I get everything in good working order, and put together I will send it off for professional painting.  That is the one part I will leave up to the professionals.   ;-)

Hopefully my end result will make you Uber R/C Tank Modellers proud of me.  But we shall see.

War and Peace,
GoDOWaR

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 4/10/2012 10:02 PM   
edoubleaz



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Speaker box is the base of all the traverse Items. It is integral. The DAK Abrams is almost back on the bench for final assembly BTW.


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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 4/10/2012 11:02 PM   
Panther G


 

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Thats right gow. I forgot you are working on an Abrams. All the Leo parts confused me. Really don't have much of a choice as far as an M1 goes. Mine is going to get the full El-mod set up once it get;s here. Should be soon according to Phil. Cant wait. It will run well with the mods I designed and am using. Electronics are really the hardest obstacle with the Abrams.

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 4/11/2012 2:18 AM   
godowar


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: godowar


P.S. I took pictures of what the kit included.  I will upload them tonight when I get home from work.





As promised! .... Grrr .... Well not as promised ... damn pics are too large.  I gotta resize them, I'll try to get to it tomorrow.

War and Peace,
GoDOWaR

Stupid Droid phone!!!


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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 4/11/2012 4:04 AM   
TeTris MoNk



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Don't hate the Droids.... only IPhone users hate droids..... just change the megapixels used.



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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 4/11/2012 2:49 PM   
texchap


 

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You need to contact Phil at RCTANKWARS about interfacing the Tamiya Recoil and the ecoboard.   He is working on a Tiger 1 for me that had Tamiya recoil and elevation.   There were issues.     I am awaiting the pricer elmod board now.   


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Tamiya Sherman, Pershing, KV-1, and King Tiger; DBS Panther, ZTZ 99; El Mod Sherman, Tiger 1, M1A1; Hooben Tir

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 4/13/2012 2:33 PM   
godowar


 

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Status update:

Still working on policing up the parts.   But I have some of the Tamiya parts ordered off of EBAY enroute.   Getting closer and closer!  Woot!


War and Peace,
GoDOWaR

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 5/10/2012 6:07 PM   
godowar


 

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Here are some pics of the AFV Hull, and the pieces parts that came with it.


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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 5/11/2012 11:46 PM   
Panther G


 

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I never realizes the AFV hull needed assembly like that.I would never have bought one knowing it wasn't a solid hull for that amount of money. The rest of the parts look very nice but I just dont like that hull design.

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 5/12/2012 2:31 AM   
godowar


 

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Panther G,

I wish I woulda been able to get the pics up sooner for you so you could have made up your mind. 

But IMHO the hull will be rock solid once put together, and you will be happier than any other solution.
Improved suspension, road wheels, corrected front slope, metal idler arms, metal road wheels, etc. etc. 

But ... Again it is just my opinion. 

I posted the pics so people in the future could make an educated descision, because like you I had nothing to help me really make up my mind, and that is what this site is here for ... So we can all learn from each other, and share our passion (TANKS) with each other.

I will post more pics as I progress.  I think I actually might kick off the lower hull tomorrow.  So some pics may be incomming soon!!!

War and Peace,
GoDOWaR

-Dave

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 5/13/2012 2:48 AM   
godowar


 

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Here are some more pics of the Hull starting to go together.

War and Peace,
GoDOWaR

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 5/13/2012 2:56 PM   
MAUS45



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Looks good. Based on what I can see in the photos it should be strong enough for R/C.

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 5/13/2012 7:12 PM   
Panther G


 

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Yeah i hear you. Let us know what you think once it is all assembled. maybe jumping the gun on it.

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 5/16/2012 5:59 AM   
BarkingSquirrel



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Panther G

I never realizes the AFV hull needed assembly like that.I would never have bought one knowing it wasn't a solid hull for that amount of money. The rest of the parts look very nice but I just dont like that hull design.

Its rock solid and very well designed. The added satisfaction of doing it myself was nice. Translating German to English wasn't though but I dunno if they changed it since I built mine those years ago.

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 6/26/2012 9:23 PM   
godowar


 

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Guys,

Need some help in figuring out what they want me to do here ... 

See the last two pictures.  They are applying what looks like glue in the bottom left picture to the bushings, and then applying what looks like RTV sealant of some kind in the right hand picture? 

What is your thoughts on what they are telling me to do?

This is actually a stoppage for me on continuing with the project.

War and Peace,
GoDOWaR

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 6/27/2012 8:47 PM   
vollenc


 

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Hi godowar,

I like your build very much. All of the German stuff is pricey but you get a superior product. The last two steps read to align and secure the swing arm bushings into the hull with instant adhesive, then follow with a fillet of powdered filler and instant adhesive. I think the powder (thixotropic) is baking soda, but I would use the product sold for whatever adhesive your using.

< Message edited by vollenc -- 6/28/2012 3:37 AM >


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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 6/27/2012 9:19 PM   
MAUS45



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I have done something similar to this on my 1/8th scale Tiger II. I used 5 Minute Epoxy and added aluminum powder to it to get the same fillet for strength. I would be sure and rough up the areas around the bushings and the outside exposed area of the bushings themselves with maybe 200 or 300 grit sand paper to give those smooth surfaces some bite for the epoxy to grab hold of for a stronger hold. I would use a file to rough up the outside diameter of the bushings so you get bite there as well. Just be sure and mask off the openings of the bushings so none of the epoxy mix gets into them. Are the hull parts plastic or PVC?

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 6/28/2012 3:18 AM   
vollenc


 

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MAUS45 is right. The best adhesive system is epoxy. I was trying my best to answer godowar based on the instructions from AFV-Model. The best and strongest epoxies are 5:1 resin:hardner. I have worked with Dexter Hysol, Marine Tex and West System products for many years. The 5:1 products have a 30 minute work time and harden in 8 hours, and fully cure in up to several days depending on ambient conditions of temperature and humidity. The best thixotropic filler for filleting is Collodial Silica, Cabosil or Aerosil, the generic name is blown silica. All of these products are basically glass fiber micro snowflakes which interlock to provide a strong and thick shapeable filler. Included are pictures of my 1/8 M1A2 kit where I leveled the upper hull with thickened epoxy to provide for a full ring turret bearing.

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 6/28/2012 6:58 AM   
BarkingSquirrel



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Yeah, I just used some random 2 part epoxy from the hardware store on mine and it was fine. Just make sure you get good coverage. Below is my old thread from when I built mine. The write up occurred after the whole thing was done with pictures taken as I was building it(long since lost though). I think I got up to page 9 before I got hit hard economically, and lost my house and all my tanks(I still haven't been able to buy one since, I want that ZTZ-99 tank but thats a different story).

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8966393

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 6/28/2012 1:33 PM   
godowar


 

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Thanks for al lthe information everyone!

It is greatly appreciated!!!

War and Peace,
GoDOWaR

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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 11/6/2012 3:03 PM   
godowar


 

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All,

I know I haven't posted in a while, but that is because my local accountant (wife) hasn't been budgeting my upgrade parts.  So It has been a slow go.

I just wanted to give a status update, and get some suggestions / comments from all you scratch build, and pro tip guru's.

Status:
Currently I have the lower hull together. (minus suspension).
I also have to putty up defects in the styrene and very minor gaps where a couple of styrene hull parts went together, and sand in preperation for painting.

I have the aluminum roadwheels together with the copper bushings as provided in the AFV hull kit, but I am not satisfied with the result.  So in the future I will be replacing all of them with sealed bearings. In order to breakdown the bearing adhesive it will require heating the wheels to approx 400 degrees.  But I am fairly certain how I will tackle it, and confident it should work fairly well.

I have left the suspension disassembled for painting, and plan to paint the hull with Krylon hammered texture metal paint.  Then the final coat will be painted either Olive drab or Nato green.

Now a few questions:
Metal Kenny Kong Tracks - I have noticed just in handling the tracks that one of the track pads came off.  I can re-bond it with epoxy, or super glue.  But would like to hear what you all think?
What glue would work the best?  Epoxy or CA?   Or should I mod the track and drill a hole in the center, then screw the pad to the track to help keep it secure?

Based off of Europe stationed M1A1's during the late 80's early 90's standard 3 color camo. 
 - Which color would be best to apply for the green?   NATO GREEN, OLIVE DRAB?

The instructions say to use CA glue  to adhere the decorative caps to the aluminum roadwheels to adhere them in place ... I plan on sanding the aluminum to rough it up a hair using the CA glue as instructed, and using clear RTV dollop on the edge to help adhere them in place.  I will xacto off the excess RTV but figure this will help prevent the caps from falling off as they will be held snuggley in place by the RTV if the CA glue adhesion fails from use. 
- Thoughts?   Think the RTV is a good idea?

What is everyone's thought on the Krylon hammered metal silver paint for a sub coat?  Do you think it will add or detract from the realism?

War and Peace,
GoDOWaR





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RE: kicked off the HE M1A1 build - 11/6/2012 3:22 PM   
MAUS45



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For the road wheel caps I would use just RTV or Elmores Glue. I use this method to hold the drive sprocket caps that cover the screws for my Tamiya Tiger I and II. It has not failed to hold them in place and it makes for easy removal if I need to take the drive sprockets off for maintenance. Just make sure you rough up the areas where the caps attach to the wheels for better grip.

< Message edited by MAUS45 -- 11/6/2012 5:50 PM >


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