Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversion kit bash

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Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversion ki... - 4/10/2012 8:46 PM

Edhamp

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The CARF Corsair is one lovely looking warbird and this is not meant to be a detailed build thread for that model because excellent build threads for the various versions available are already posted on this site and elsewhere to help create your scale masterpiece (and I am following them all to build mine).

What I aim to show are some basic changes to bring your Corsair more in line with later versions if you are looking to finish yours in one of say Korean War of Navy/Marines reserve colours.

Background: Now I am not a fully paid up member of the scale police but to me the version of the F4U-1 as produced by CARF just does not look right painted up in the colours of the later F4U-4, F4U-5 and AU-1 versions. Compared to the F4U1-d, later version like the F4U-5 and AU-1 appear to have spent time in the gym and grown a few bulges and extra inches and altogether seem to have more presence.

The main differences between these types from a model flyers point of view (and I shall refrain from rivet counting here) are the various scoops and bulges on the cowl and different cowl shapes, the exhausts above as well as below the wing, the different fuselage lengths and all-metal wing surfaces and larger canopy on later marks, flat front wind screen and different instrument panel/cockpit layouts.

Originally I wanted to build an AU-1 version as I liked the later grey/white colour schemes of the Quantico Marine reserve aircraft and thought it would have good visibility in the air compared to overall gloss sea blue types. But I decided that this would require a little more kit bashing then I was prepared to undertake given the differences in fuselage length and cross section. The CARF website has a link to a great conversion to F4 2G (with a bubble canopy) which shows what can be done!

In the end I decided to build an F4U-4 version from the Korean war, VF783 “Baby Leonora” USS Bonne Homme Richard. “Oh no, not another boring blue Corsair” I hear you all cry! But it has to be said they look right in this scheme if done with just the right amount of weathering and detailing and the version I am building has plenty of white ID markings to help it stand out.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/10/2012 9:03 PM

Edhamp

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The CARF version of the kit used here is the ARF silver with plug in wings. I did not want the complication and extra weight of the folding wings, fantastic though they are, and I am considering using the new Evolution/UMS 160CC gas radial with approx 10hp so want to keep weight down to around 40lbs if I can.

I will show the various modifications I made and also where I have deviated from the manual with respect to some changes and ideas of my own for those building this version. I have no intention of repeating the excellent content in the other CARF Corsair threads so please refer to these on how to build yours to the highest standards.

Differences - The main changes to be made are to the cowl, additional exhaust stubs above wing, canopy and I will be building a detailed F4U-4 cockpit interior.

A great reference to some of this work is the Squadron Signal publication F4U corsair in action which details all the differences.

Please feel free to post your comments and pics of any modified Corsair arfs.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/10/2012 9:42 PM

Edhamp

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Exhaust outlets- the -4 engine has exhausts above the wing as well as below. The exhaust position is not as high as the Au-1 and the lower exhaust is also in a different position to the -1 (but I am leaving that alone, just adding a couple of new upper outlets). From drawing and photos determine the position and shape of the outlets and mark and cut out on the fuselage. I then used flexible wire mesh to get the shape of the scoops (see pics) and the fit this over the cut and secure with tape. From the inside of the fuselage, put some clear tape or film over the mesh and then lay 2-3 layers of light FG cloth and resin over the mess (still working from the inside) and ensure it follows the required shape. When set, continue to build with heavier cloth and resisn to strengthen the area and ensure you overlap quite a bit. When set remove the mesh (the film should make this easy) and the film and then sand smooth and proceed to fill in any imperfections with your favourite filler/putty and continue until happy. I also added some aluminium tape panel detailing as you can see in the pic.

I have not made the exhausts pipe at this time until I have decided on the final engine installation. If possible they may be functional.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/10/2012 10:35 PM

Edhamp

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Cowl chin air scoop. : The dash 4 has a single chin air scoop which is very noticeable in profile. Getting the shape right requires more than just gluing a piece of curvedplastic or metal sheet under the cowl.

It is possible to carve a plug and use that to make a mould to create your own scoop as with any FG moulding but I prefer a quicker fill and sand to shape approach for a one-off job. Use some flexible open wire mesh to get the basic shape (see the pics above using mesh to make the exhaust outlets) and outline correct from various pictures and line drawings, then make sure the mesh is firmly attached to the chin (no need to cut any holes in the cowl unless you want to make the scoop functional) and add some car body type filler over the mesh and blend into the cowl to the correct shape. You can reienforce by adding some plastic card cut to shape on the inside surface if you like. When set sand carfully and continue with more filler, from both the inside and out to add strength and repeat as necessary until you are happy. I also added some internal detail using plastic card.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/10/2012 10:51 PM

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Cool project. Subscribed.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/10/2012 11:00 PM

Edhamp

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Cowl Flaps- Compared to the flaps on the CARF corsair, the -4 has fewer larger flaps which give quite a different appearance. Again with reference to drawings and photos, individual flaps were made using litho (thin aluminium) sheet and glued with hysol or epoxy over the existing flaps. The panel lines on the carf cowl are not to exact scale so do not use them as definite reference point when marking out the cowl position and note than the flaps are not all the same size. Get things in proportion and make it look right. The bottom of the cowl and curvature will lead to a bit of a compromise but again much here will depend on engine installation. With the longer flaps, the cowl can be moved forward by approx 3/8 to ½ inch which I did by adding blocks under the existing mounts (see pic). Hopefully this will help with balance later and mean less weight up front. You will also need to add a small piece of FG at the top of the cowl between the fuselage to fill the resulting gap. Also, the lower cowl flaps on the underside do not exist on the -4 (see pic) and I will modify these once the engine is available.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/11/2012 12:27 AM

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Cockpit/instruments - Various parts for this sourced from my scrap box, carved from resin or chemi-wood or bought commercially. The instruments and small toggle switches, gun sight and some other bits can be had from your local InZpan/propagteam/Aerocockpit stockist. I used the 1/4 scale instruments and 1/4 and 1/5 switches . The instrument panel was scratch built from thick plastic card. The instruments appear to sit behind the main panel, having eyebrow cutouts and look very different to the F4U-1 panel, not just in layout and position. Also the -4s have a centre console and different side consoles, as well as a floor. I wanted to make the whole cockpit floor and side consules removable to be able to access the area behind where I plan to mount the elevator servos rather than locate them in the tail, again because I want to minimise weight up front to balance later. The whole assembly slips in easily through the large wing opening and is screwed to a couple of wood bearers to line up with the instrument panel that fits separately.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/11/2012 12:31 AM

Edhamp

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The gun and other switch boxes located on the panel coving were scratch built using plastic card over basic shapes made from balsa sheet and block.
The placards and other markings were created on a PC and printed onto thick white photo paper and then sprayed with a decal sealer and glued direct or onto thin litho first,

Picture of the final installation fitted will follow later when I have detailed the cockpit side walls a little and added seat/headrest etc.

The keen eyed will no doubt spot some artistic licence as I have not tried to be totally accurate (life is too short!) but to acheive the right look and representation (the guys at my flying field will not know the difference in any case

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/11/2012 12:30 PM

Edhamp

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Canopy and screen: Later production models of the -4 had a flat front screen rather than the rounded version. So before you undertake this change make sure it applies to the chosen subject. The frames where also closer at the top. Also the rear canopy top did not always have the semicircular D shaped section in the frame. Fortunately CARF have not moulded any frame outlines into the clear canopy supplied so the frame can be cut as required, new side frames made for the screen from existing pieces or scrap and a new flat windscreen inserted. Its not as simple as it sounds as you need to maintain the overall shape and if making an opening canopy, ensure that you do not distort things too much and then have a poor fit . The best way I think is to do all the work with the complete canopy attached to the fuselage in the correct position to maintain the right shape and go from there. The pic shows a rough stage of the work with frame cut and positioned with new screen. It will tidied up prior to painting to hide all the joins . Side on pic shows the difference the flat screen makes. To be totally accurate the top of the canopy and front frame needs to be a flattened more than I managed but I did not want to risk ruining the canopy alltogether if I got that wrong!

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/11/2012 12:49 PM

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Whilst on the subject of the canopy, some pics to show how I normally fit a sliding canopy. I use the usual canopy rail and ball method . The mechanism for the corsair also uses a small brass U insert which slides in the canopy rail and is soldered to a threaded push rod. A cut out in the brass insert is sized to the ball link so the link sits in the slot and is pushed or pulled along with it. I found this allowed for complete free articulation and less friction.

You can then use whatever system you prefer to drive the rods. I used a 4" cylinder fitted as shown. The threaded ends of the pushrod give you a chance for final adjustment and the set up is quite rigid and seems to work smoothly. Notice in last photo the front canopy rails are not parallel to the cockpit sides but to each other, which I think is the same on the full size.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/11/2012 1:11 PM

Edhamp

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Elevator Servos: I wanted to have two elevator servos to have a degree of redundancy. But I did not want the weight in the tail. so decided I would see if the servos could be mounted just behind the wing with some not too long carbon fibre push rods linking to the elevator control horns without interfering with the tail wheel. I especially wanted to ensure a slop free precise control.

The elevator servos are placed on a plywood tray just to the rear and above where the tailwheel steering servo is located. The large diameter push rods are kept rigid by passing through plywood guides at the tailwheel bulkhead and just ahead of the tail wheel cylinder mounting frame. Keep eveything heavy duty and use Hysol for all glue joint and make sure your metal pushrods ends cannot work free or slide out.

At this time I cannot decide whether to cut the carbon fibre elevator connecting rod in the tail so that the servos and elevators are not linked , as CARF suggest for a twin servo set -up. I think I am better off leaving the set up as pictured because it helps keep things rigid and alligned, and if a servo fails then I have proved that there is plenty of power in the remaining 20+Kg servo to drive the system in an emergency (provided the failed servo does not jam up!) . A powerbox will ensure the servos are matched properly.

The rudder servo is as per instructions.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/11/2012 1:58 PM

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Equipment Installation: The plan is to install as much equipment as possible for the radio, air and other systems in the wing centre section. This helps to keep things simple minimising the connections to be made with the fuselage (only throttle. elevator, rudder, tailwheel steering servo leads and tail wheel air). The canopy air system is self contained in the fuselage. It also helps keep things close to or in front of the cg.

You can cut out the skin in front of the main spar and here I will place the air tank and twin powerbox batteries (it might be worth checking the wing dowls now you have access as I felt the joint on mine needed a bit more securing allthough I have not heard of any coming off in the air).

Switches, charging sockets and air valve location can be a problem as there is no natural hatch location except perhaps underneath which is not convenient. I decided I would convert the left wing cooler to have a a removeable cover using a small latch and locate the main radio switch, fill valve here to be hidden but easily accessable, see pic. (engine electronics and switches etc will have a separate hatch in the fuselage side). The righthand air inlet and radiator will be permanently fixed

The equipment tray behind the main spar houses the powerbox RRS with twin receivers, electronic boxes or the flashing gun and nav lights etc and retract valves.

PS the flashing gun electronics etc are from SM Services (UK) limited http://www.smservices.net/index.html (no, they do not provide any other kind of personal service, just make sure you enter it correctly in your search engine because I cannot be responsible for what else you might get!).

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/11/2012 4:44 PM

Scale Specialties

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Edhamp,
One thing that almost all modelers ovelook when they modify an early model Corsair to a -4 or above is the fact that the bottom of the cowl and fuselage require more than just adding chin or cheek scoops to the bottom of the round cowl. There is actually about 6 inches of added depth at the bottom of the cowl and forward fuselage that is what gives you the oblong but slightly flattened bottom look to the cowl. If you find a picture of a fullsize with the cowl panels off you can see the support frame clearly shows this cross section. The -4 looks less sleek than the -1 because of this, more than just the chin scoop alone. The -5 and AU-1 looks less stubby than -4 because they added an additional 12 inches of length to the nose to accommodate the -32 engine with its extremely long sidewheel supercharger accessory section. You may feel that making these added changes to be too much of a hassle, but I thought you might be interested to know this as sometimes modelers scratch their head as to why the cannot get the look quite right.
Regards, -Dave

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/11/2012 8:13 PM

Edhamp

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Hi Dave,

Thank you very much for the useful comments. I agree and you are quite right about these differences in cross sectional shape and lengths etc as I said in my intro, and how they affect the look and in particular reproducing the look of the AU-1 and -5 starting with the CARF Corsair is the hardest of all. For these reasons I baulked at tackling the AU-1. And certainly as I found, its not quite possible to replicate the lower cowl flaps properly because as you point out, there should be a greater depth to the cowl and the resulting less rounded look you describe, (you can see it in the photo I posted for the cowl flap build above) but I hope the end result as an -4 will look better for the bit of extra work. Certainly it has taken on a more stubby look, despite these compromises. CARF have moulded in some overscale exhaust outlet ducts in the lower forward fuselage area to suit certain radial engines which really do not make it worthwhile to modify this area without some extensive surgery.
Ed

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/11/2012 8:41 PM

Edhamp

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Other detail changes: Other items to look at and change include the obvious cut out in the right hand inboard flap as a step, ensuring it is angled correctly, and a check of surface detail, hatches and panels to determine if there are any really glaring differences between the CARF moulding and the -4. A quick comparison with published drawings would appear to show that some hatch locations in the fuselage are more suited to a -4 than -1 so I cannot see me making too mnay changes here!

A decision also needs to be made about how far to go with drop tanks and hard points/weapons load under the wings. Maybe for static display only!

Thats it for now, I will post some more later at the painting and finishing stage. Ed

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/11/2012 11:26 PM

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Excellent work Edhamp
Love your scratch built cockpit and the work you are doing on the corsair,Have seen your spitfire on the thread and like that also.Keep up the good work

Nudge

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/12/2012 11:32 AM

Edhamp

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Thanks Nudge.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/12/2012 11:50 AM

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_____________________________

Remember: Speed is life!

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/22/2012 9:43 PM

Edhamp

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Welcome Vasek

Cowl Part 2

The next task is to alter the cowl lower half to more closely match the -4 as discussed previously. The underside does not have any flaps and the cowl extends to the fuselage. The lower flaps were cut away and a new section added to fill the gap. Do not worry about the join as it will be covered over with filler. As per photo, build up the lower cowl with filler, keep the thickness thin on the underneath, no more than 1-2 mm, increasing the thickness working up the sides, up to 3-4mm before blending it in so as to impart a less rounded shape to the lower cowl sides and a flatter bottom surface. It is also a good idea to reinforce the lower area from the inside of the cowl with some glass fibre mat (if you have the arf version then the lower of the three cowl mounts with the captive nut factory glued to the cowl should be removed for the time being to do this).

The filler was sanded to blend in, any imperfections filled with putty, and then surface detail added before spraying (I used ModelMaster spray cans and paints for the basic colour, 1917 Dark Sea blue gloss, more about painting and finishing later).

Now that lower cowl flaps have gone, its not possible to mount the cowl using the lower mount as it is no longer possible to insert the retaining bolt from the rear. I modified the mounting bracket on the firewall to accept a bolt inserted from below through the cowl. Not as elegant as having a hidden bolt, but simple enough. You may prefer to go for another solution.

The different look and depth of the -4 cowl hopefully comes through in the pictures and looks deeper and bulkier than the -1.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/22/2012 10:06 PM

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Retract Covers

Having built the CARF P51 and Spitfire and speaking from experience, it seems that installation of the retracts can be an area for significant head scratching judging by the posts in the forums for these carf warbirds. The problems partly stem from the factory not quite getting right the location for the mounting points/angles for the gear and gear doors and/or and wheel wells location to suit the retracts. Couple this with the complications arising from trying to produce an installation working in as scale a fashion as possible, which itself imposes limitations and compromises, and it is no wonder this is an area of difficulty. Unfortunately the factory manuals do not always help in this regard and reading these forums and trying out one’s own ideas, inspired by other peoples solutions, is what makes life interesting, unless that is you prefer to take a model out of its box and fly it before bedtime!

On the F4U ARF version, the main retract doors and gear covers (impressively made of carbon fibre) are already cut and partly fitted saving a lot of work. Its all nicely done and the retract fit is fairly straightforward, if a little tight in places. However the forward gear door that attaches to the main wheel strut is not fitted. The manual is also unhelpfully vague about how this should be fitted and the other excellent CARF Corsair forums show various elegant methods.

I used a similar method to that used for the CARF 51 gear doors for mounting the forward gear door, using the two gear covers to form a hinge with aluminium and brass tube epoxied to the covers (see pic). An L shaped bracket was fabricated and attached to the main legs using the existing threaded holes as I had seen used on one of the other forums. A short arm made from threaded rod with a 2mm ball link and clevis was used to attach the leg to the door, the mounting position on the door being found by trial and error using double sided tape before drilling any holes. Several other locations for the arm mount are also possible. The arms on both legs were located on the side facing the fuselage. As the top of the door has a fixed hinge which is also not quite scale, it does impose some limitations and if you do not take care to get the angle right, you could end up with the door not lining up with the main leg when the gear is down and that could attract the attention of the scale police! However it works very nicely and smoothly and above all should be reliable and strong which is what counts.

I fitted some simulated covers as per the leather type gaiters on the full size using thick black electrical insulating tape (see pic).

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/22/2012 10:18 PM

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Step cutout in right inboard flap, weathering and nomenclature pending.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/26/2012 9:47 PM

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Here are a couple of pictures of aircraft from VF-783 Minute men. Gives a good idea of what exhaust stains should look like and fact that paint still looks good after many missions so a heads up not to go too mad with weathering etc!.

The paint immmdediately behind the hot exhaust seems to have been burnt back to bare metal, with surrounding black stains leading to light greyish streak on the fus side following the airflow well past the trailing edge in a large sweep and this certainly stands out against the dark sea blue.

I cannot tell if the aircraft had a matt finish anti glare panel from the canopy forward, or if over time in service the difference in finish became less obvious.

Also wonder what was going is on in picture of Ginger II with no tailwheel and rockets released!!!!!?

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/26/2012 11:00 PM

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Edhamp

Also wonder what was going is on in picture of Ginger II with no tailwheel and rockets released!!!!!?

The only scenario I could come up with is that the pilot released the rockets knowing he's crash landing... a bit to late for that ain't it LOL

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/27/2012 12:24 AM

Chad Veich

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I believe "Ginger" has made something of a less than perfect arrival and the impact has both broken the tail wheel strut and dislodged the rockets from their mounts.

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RE: Composite ARF CARF Corsair F4U-1 to F4U-4 conversio... - 4/27/2012 2:01 AM

Thunderbolt47

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Chad Veich

I believe ''Ginger'' has made something of a less than perfect arrival and the impact has both broken the tail wheel strut and dislodged the rockets from their mounts.

+1

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