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RE: Russian Elfin 149 ABC Repro - 9/30/2012 7:01 AM   
greggles47


 

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From: Sydney, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Fiery,

A tip I learned from Steve Rothwell, is to make a Comp screw from brass. The different expansion rates keeps it from unwinding during running, but is still free enough to be adjusted as needed.

Hollow the point as usual.

Also tighten the cylinder & fins with a belt spanner.

Regards

G

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RE: Russian Elfin 149 ABC Repro - 9/30/2012 7:57 AM   
qazimoto


 

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Status: online 		Derek,

here's some pics of my cylinder fin strap. An old thick leather belt works well and will protect any anodizing.

Make the handle from either a broom handle or a bit of 1" dowel. Note the 45 degree angle on one end and the retaining screws are large selftappers or wood screws

trimmed flush to the timber for safety reasons.

This pic shows the operation for tightening the head fin/liner/ Turn clockwise. Turn the strap over and reverse turning direction for unscrewing the head.



Run the engine up to operating temperature, stop and tighten. Repeat cycle till loosening isn't a problem.

Ray

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< Message edited by qazimoto -- 9/30/2012 12:07 PM >

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RE: Russian Elfin 149 ABC Repro - 9/30/2012 12:23 PM   
Diesel Fan


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: fiery
Experienced engine gents. Tips for what to do to minimise the chance of the cylinder unscrewing itself from the crankcase again would be much appreciated.  


From a Team Race engine builder of some repute here in Sydney,  retorque the fins back down when the engine is at its hottest  and let it cool down completely before firing up again.

The threads should bite that bit harder as you have in fact just assembled part of the engine at the running temperature - I think that it has something to do with accuracy of the fits at run conditions.

Cheers.



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RE: Russian Elfin 149 ABC Repro - 10/1/2012 4:05 AM   
fiery


 

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From: Hervey Bay Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Today I placed the engine on the stand and ran it with APC 7 x 6 and 7 x 4 propellers.

Compression needed to be increased almost a half a turn from best running setting, and the needle opened a half a turn to ensure the engine "caught" with these smaller (lower load) propellers when started from cold. That said, starting was easy with the electric starter. Hand starting this engine on these propellers is beyond me.

The photo's below show the results with each propeller. I was not chasing top RPM's. There was more performance to be had, as I noted when the fuel line ran dry and the engine peaked it's speed for a a couple of seconds. I' d say with careful adjustment a safe further 400 or 500 rpm's could be found. Higher revolutions were no issue. The engine performed well and exhaust oil never darkened.

I consider the performance on my standard fuel commendable for an Arden ported diesel. A 'hotter" fuel could yield more gains.

Settings were non critical and revs steady. Best needle setting on my fuel (near top RPM's) needle about 1 and 1/2 a turn open. To start - needle about 2 turns open. Compression wound on about 1/4 a turn more for the 7 x 4 APC propeller.

Pleasingly, the blow-by though the compression screw hole seems to be decreasing. I will leave the contra-piston as is. The cylinder did not loosen after I check-tightened it while still hot with a strap wrench, straight after the first further run. Thanks for the tip Greggles & Diesel Fan. I will also make a "serious" strap wrench - that is great device Ray! My Aldi plastic handle strap wrench with rubber belt is barely up to the job.

All I will do from here is sort out the compression screw thread looseness, and the excessive fore-aft crankshaft movement (with a thrust washer). I note from a review of the orginal ELFIN 149 a thrust washer was used.

All in all my feeling is the engine I have is a very useable proposition, if you are patient and work through the issues, and accept it's design limitations. Running a ferrous version would be interesting, to compare handling and performance.

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< Message edited by fiery -- 10/1/2012 6:40 AM >

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RE: Russian Elfin 149 ABC Repro - 10/6/2012 10:36 AM   
123Cat


 

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Status: offline 		Well the ferrous one sounds good , Im glad you had good luck with yours ,,

Isnt the 09 the most popular size engine , ever built ,

that every 10 year old had in a C/L model in in the 50's




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RE: Russian Elfin 149 ABC Repro - 11/13/2012 12:36 AM   
fiery


 

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From: Hervey Bay Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Status: offline 		Just picked up an iron & steel version of the ELFIN 149 from Ed Carlson. Only $55 plus shipping. It looks and feels good.

Will report on it in a new thread in the near future.

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RE: Russian Elfin 149 ABC Repro - 11/13/2012 12:53 AM   
AMB


 

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Status: offline 		Fiery iron and steel . what was the older version?? martin

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RE: Russian Elfin 149 ABC Repro - 11/13/2012 1:00 AM   
fiery


 

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Status: offline 		In the Russian reproductions, orginally made in ABC, later in iron and steel Martin.

This one has a "domed" piston. I recall the ABC version described above had a flat crown piston.

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RE: Russian Elfin 149 ABC Repro - 11/13/2012 1:04 AM   
ffkiwi


 

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Status: offline 		look forward to seeing some running figures Derek-the conventional wisdom when they first appeared in the early 1990s was that the Russian ABC ones were up to 1000rpm faster than the Russian ferrous ones on typical loads, but I've never seen comparative figures for both-nor any comparisons with the originals.I have one original, one ferrous Doonside Elfin, and three of the ABC ones. I can hardly use my Doonside as a comparison, as it was hand assembled by Ivor F, and then honed and blueprinted by Harvey Westland, so it isn't an average example anymore.............

ChrisM
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RE: Russian Elfin 149 ABC Repro - 11/13/2012 1:17 AM   
ffkiwi


 

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Status: offline 		All my ABC ones have a domed piston............

ChrisM
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RE: Russian Elfin 149 ABC Repro - 11/13/2012 1:25 AM   
AMB


 

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Status: offline 		Interesting they "duped it in ABC" is that not unusual for the classic engines? maybe contest oriniated martin

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RE: Russian Elfin 149 ABC Repro - 11/13/2012 4:51 AM   
ffkiwi


 

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Status: offline 		AFAIK there is no geometrical difference between the Russian ferrous and ABC versions-and probably only a very small difference in weight-maybe only 2 or 3 grams. The original Elfin 149 was certainly considered the best contest 1.5 of its day-though I suspect (and there is anecdotal evidence to suggest it) there was quite a high degree of engine-to engine variation-greater than the other bigger manufacturers-a 'good' Elfin 149 was very good indeed-but an average one was exactly that -average-in comparison with the competition-and in 1950 there wasn't a lot-the Mills 1.3, and the Allbon Javelin-the Frog 150 appeared in '51, the ED Hornet in '52 and the AM10/15 were still several years away. Certainly-at the time, the Elfin would have been considered as a 'contest' engine not a sport one-and would pretty much have had the field to itself in terms of performance until about 1955-56. IIRC the AM 15 was the only production plain bearing British 1.5 to exceed the performance of the Elfin, until the later Frog 150R and eventually the PAW 149 came along.
A recent snippet of information-unconfirmed unfortunately -concerns the Elfin 50, which appeared around 1952-and might, with the Elfin reputation, have been expected to make quite an impact on the burgeoning UK and Commonwealth 0.5cc market initially dominated by the Allbon Dart and ED Baby. It didn't-and was dropped from production quite quickly supposedly because the Elfin production machinery was so worn out they were unable to hold the fine tolerances required for such a small engine. If this was the case then it would likewise explain the variation in the larger models as well-including the occasional oversized 2.5 that came out of the factory..............

ChrisM
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