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RE: mintor engines - 10/1/2012 12:57 PM   
coralcape


 

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Exactly Ernie, That's why I wanted to know the procedure for removing it. It's sort of like knowing the procedure for putting a ring on a piston. If you don't know, you break a ring. Don't want to damage this beautiful engine. red

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RE: mintor engines - 10/1/2012 5:29 PM   
captinjohn


 

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This is a copy & paste from another forum.  Get in touch with Claudio or Where you bought the engine.  That may be the best.

QUOTE:
With the translation help of a Italian FG member (thank you!!!), I sent a note to Claudio on Wednesday this week, detailing what I've found to date, performance improvements and the Bowman ring / rumours of thinner cylinder coating.

Claudio responded yesterday (great response time!!) with the following comments.....
* He stated that he has had a bad batch of rings
* He said he feels it's impossible that my M60 is overbore (ie: less coating thickness)
* He'd like me to send him the motor, exhaust, stock ring and Bowman ring and he will inspect and advise.

I have sent Claudio's response to Blaine at TopDawg and Blaine supports me sending it back.

I'm just awaiting Claudio's shipping address and will get it in the mail. This is likely going to cost me another ~$100.00 to ship to Italy, however I support the Mintor brand and if my motor can help Claudio for future motors or to improve the M60 engine, I'll do it.

It'll be interesting to see if mine is a dud or if Claudio feels my M60 is performing as expected. In the meantime, I have put my DLE55 back in the Pilot Edge and it is performing flawlessly with insane performance!!!

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RE: mintor engines - 10/1/2012 6:44 PM   
Deandome



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Do the Mintor 33 & 38 have the same prop-bolt pattern as the DLE 30/35? If so, can you use the DLE single-bolt adapter that Valley View RC sells (which also works on the PTE-36)?

Also are there any 'wraparound' mufflers that will fit on either engine?

Thanks!

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RE: mintor engines - 10/1/2012 7:20 PM   
Ernie Misner



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coralcape, when you look at the back side of the crank where the pin is located can you tell if the pin is pressed into the crank or in there permanently? Also does that keeper look to be pressed onto the pin or welded or machined into place?

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RE: mintor engines - 10/1/2012 11:20 PM   
TimBle


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Deandome

Do the Mintor 33 & 38 have the same prop-bolt pattern as the DLE 30/35? If so, can you use the DLE single-bolt adapter that Valley View RC sells (which also works on the PTE-36)?

Also are there any 'wraparound' mufflers that will fit on either engine?

Thanks!


The 33 propeller bolt circle diameter is 29mm, it does not match the DLE30's BCD.



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RE: mintor engines - 10/2/2012 12:56 PM   
coralcape


 

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Ernie, the crankpin looks to be a different diameter either end. Smaller on the front of engine than the rear. It is possible the pin is pressed in from the front. There is a slight chamfer on the pin. No hurry, I'll still wait awhile for a response from Topdawg. Looking at it logically, the crank will need to be heated and pin pressed out from front to rear. red

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RE: mintor engines - 10/2/2012 3:01 PM   
captinjohn


 

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Read post #91... I made.....with photo.  Another Idea you could PM Ken Lambert. He has placed needle bearings in many SuperTiger engines.  If my Mintor ever goes out of warrenty and the rod needs attention...I would try to get Ken to place a new hardened pin and standard needle bearings in my engine.  Give him a PM....all he can say is no.  Best Regards,  Capt,n

< Message edited by captinjohn -- 10/3/2012 3:57 AM >


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RE: mintor engines - 10/2/2012 3:55 PM   
captinjohn


 

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Ken,s Website   http://www.lambertsrc.com/     Take care,   Capt,n

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RE: mintor engines - 10/9/2012 1:04 PM   
coralcape


 

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Finally got the crank straight. Being kind of lazy, I didn't go any further in asking the experts for advice. I went back to my beginnings and used the eyeball heavy hammer method. First, I couldn't get the rod off the crank ( tried heat and pressure, but didn't want to do any damage) so I put the crank in the front half case, put on a prop and rotated to find high spot. Then I removed the crank forn the case half and put it in vise and used a two,pound hammer to straighten. Crude, but it worked. The crank seems soft and was bent in two places. Prop now has no runout and I'm happy. Thanks for all advice. red

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RE: mintor engines - 10/9/2012 5:46 PM   
Ernie Misner



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Did you have a hydraulic press when trying to press the crank pin out?

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RE: mintor engines - 10/10/2012 1:14 AM   
coralcape


 

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Nope Ernie. I couldn't figure how to support the crank while applying pressure. I'm guessing it takes a special tool. Strangely, the crank pin was 2mm larger in diameter on the keeper side?? red


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RE: mintor engines - 10/10/2012 5:16 AM   
Ernie Misner



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Well not that the crank is straightened and the rod didn't need to come off of it, perhaps the crank pin and needle bearings will outlast the rest of the engine. For peace of mind did you ever get any info from the importer about how to replace the crank pin if needed?

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RE: mintor engines - 10/10/2012 11:51 AM   
coralcape


 

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To be honest, I never called Topdawg direct. Can't blame them if they don't know about it. My lazy. red

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RE: mintor engines - 10/13/2012 6:18 PM   
captinjohn


 

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coralcape, I see you are in Florida.  We just got back to Mich....went to a my Grandson,s  wedding at Disney World !  It sre was nice weather...I wanted to fly here in Mich today...but it looks like a cold all day rain storm.  Wish I was back in Florida !

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RE: mintor engines - 10/14/2012 12:58 PM   
coralcape


 

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Yep, Capt'n. Been here since '68, year round. I retired 16 years ago and made the mistake of buying a complete R/C set at a garage sale ) Been back into the hobby now for 9 yrs. Keep smiling, it confuses 'em. red

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RE: mintor engines - 10/24/2012 1:16 AM   
captinjohn


 

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What is new in the Mintor engine circle of owners?  

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