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Apache DLG - Mods - 6/16/2012 2:40 AM   
Nodd



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The Apache DLG...



This entry level (D)iscus (L)aunched (G)lider has been around since the turn of the century. Its popular with those new to DLG as its a lot cheaper than most 1.5m gliders in its class, bang-for-buck, its hard to beat. Set up correctly, its also a very nice flyer.

As the ARF kit comes with zero instructions I thought I'd provide a step by step guide to putting her together. Searching online I've also found a wealth of cool mods that can greatly improve this glider's performance & durability. Those will be covered here also. Lastly, I know the Apache has been the subject of many a thread already but I wanted to consolidate that great info, choose some of the best mods & see if I can put together a modern take on this time honored bird. So here goes...

WARNING
The following modifications involve carbon fiber, microbaloons, Kevlar, epoxy resins & other potentially harmful substances. Use of gloves, eye protection, a
mask & a lot of common sense is recommended. Follow the manufacturer's warnings & be safe.

Lastly I make no guarantees that these modifications will be effective. Unforeseen consequences are a real possibility. Perform these at your own
risk.


What's in the Box
The packaging was soso at best. Although my Apache arrived unscathed I can see it wouldn't take much abuse to make for a very unhappy unboxing...



Lots of bubble wrap but little crush protection...



Here's what you get...



The quality looks good for the most part. The covering is top notch & everything seems to be well made...



That's one sexy looking fuselage...



Designed for older, bulkier radio gear & batteries, for a DLG, there's actually quite a lot of space in there...



So here she is loosely taped together, right out of the box...



The Good the Bad & the Ugly
Before we start putting this birdy together lets touch-upon a few well known issues. The first & probably the most important is the notoriously weeny wing joiner...



For a decade now that little scrap of wood has been responsible for countless folded wings & sad faces. We'll be addressing that for sure.

Next is the rather hefty tail-feathers...



Okay so the tail's not crazy-heavy but I think we can do better. A couple of grams on this end can translate into three times that in nose weight...



Remember this was designed to use old school heavy batteries so a little extra weight on the tail was a good thing. However with today's featherweight LiPos, if we don't do something, we're going to get stuck with a tail heavy glider. Again something we'll address.

The stock location where the launch rod should be installed is in a bad spot...



A common complaint is that during launch the Apache's wing-tip digs painfully into the webbing between your fingers. We'll be relocating the rod to a more ergonomic position.

There's a bunch of other odds & ends, tips & tricks & neat stuff that I'll get to as the build goes on. Subscribe if you're interested.

< Message edited by Nodd -- 6/19/2012 5:27 PM >


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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/18/2012 7:28 AM   
Nodd



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Wing Spar-joint Reinforcement
As mentioned, the stock wing joining system, using a piddly little hardwood scrap, is prone to failure. To address this I'm going to make a rock solid, bullet-proof, spar-joint. To do this some minor surgery is required.

I removed the first two rib-bays' covering...



Before getting started I notched each wing half so the aileron servo wires will have somewhere to exit out the bottom of the wing...



I needed access to the joiner box between the cap-spars so I removed one side of the first rib-bay's front/rear shear-webbing...



Replacing the Apache's wooden joiner I chose to use beefy 2mm x 11mm rectangular carbon fiber. I cut a length long enough to span the first rib-bay of both wing halves...



I cut a slot through the end-rib to accept the new CF wing joiner...



Test fitting the CF joiner...



Happy with the fit I epoxied the two wing halves together with the wing joiner in place...



Next I prepared a mixture of epoxy & microballoons then filled the joiner box. The microballoons help keep the epoxy lightweight but still plenty strong...



 I re-added new shear-webbing sealing in the joiner...



That was probably sufficient to fix the Apache's weak center joint issue but why stop there? Next I added carbon fiber ribbon to the top & bottom of the spar...



To guarantee the spar joint won't ever come apart, I also wrapped it with Kevlar...



I'm pretty confident this mod has taken care of the Apache's spar-joint issue & then some. I'd like to fiberglass the center ribs & reinforce the areas where the wing pin & screw goes. That'll have to wait until tomorrow though, time to get some sleep.

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/19/2012 4:44 AM   
Nodd



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Wing Mounting Hardware
The Apache's wing is attached to the fuselage with a nylon screw & an aluminum pin. I'd heard that both of these invariably ends up working loose & breaking, so once again its time for some reinforcements.

Starting with the nylon screw, I chiseled out an area to accept a carbon fiber plate...



Installed the CF plate, will drill the hole later when I have the fuselage sorted...



Next was the aluminum pin...



Again I wanted to use CF to make sure the pin wasn't going anywhere. I cut a slot using my razor saw...



Here's the CF piece I plan to use...



Test fit, seems snug...



Glued & trimmed the CF then drilled the hole for the pin...



To finish off the center section I fiber-glassed the root ribs top & bottom...



The Launch Peg
I've been debating whether to use a rod or plate for the launch peg. After looking over a nice peg design by Mark Drelas, I decided my Apache would sport a plate. Before doing anything with the wingtip, those silly stars had to go...



Once again I'm not happy with the stock design. The launch peg is, in my opinion, too far forward. So in preparation for more surgery I removed the skin...



Here's my peg made from scrap CF. Although a tad longer than Dr. Drelas' design (for my fat fingers) its per his plans, including the cool airfoil shape...



Because I'm relocating the peg I felt it should still be tied into the main spar. These spruce strips will help do that...



The spruce glued in place...



A slot is notched through both spruce strips & then out through the wingtip ply plate. The peg then fits snug in there...



Although I already measured the position, I did a quick test to see if the peg is in the correct place. Feels good to me. Note that I also rounded the TE of the wingtip so it no longer catches the webbing between my fingers. Much more comfortable & allows complete freedom for the glider to swing as needed...



Happy with the position I glue in the peg & add some extra CF here & there...



Covered the tip in an easy to see yellow & that job's sorted...



Tomorrow I hope to install the aileron servos & cover the center section. Then its on to the tail feathers & fuselage. Stay tuned...

< Message edited by Nodd -- 7/17/2012 6:14 PM >


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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/20/2012 2:00 AM   
Nodd



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Aileron Servos
Next I installed the two aileron servos in the wing. The holes in the Apache's ribs aren't big enough to fit a servo plug through, so you'll need to snip that off to route the wire through the wing. Chances are your servo wires won't be long enough anyway...



After routing two short servo extensions through the center rib notches I made earlier, I solder the wires together...



I'm out of heat-shrink so a little electrical tape will have to do...



Time to mount the servos. Many folks simply glue their servos into the airframe & that works fine. I prefer to use screws...



Glued the mounting blocks to the wing...



I like to be accurate when installing my control-horns. A carpenter's right-angle insures good geometry...



  A push-rod is installed...



To finish the installation I cover the hole leaving a slit for the control arm to move back-n-forth...



Covered the center of the wing...



A quick test fit on the fuselage to see how she's looking...



I'm thinking that "Apache" logo might have to go. Anyway that's all for today...

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/21/2012 7:15 AM   
Nodd



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Tail Feathers
One of my goals for this project was to make a new, lighter, tail. The stock 1/8" tail-feathers weren't all that weighty but I figured I could do better. I cut a new set from 1/16" balsa...



I added carbon fiber to strengthen the thin wood...



Next I fiber-glassed just one side using feather weight 3/4oz glass cloth...



Everything was looking good until I decided to see how much the new pieces weighed...



Just about the same weight & I've not even covered it yet. The horriz-stab was actually way heavier...



Granted I've not cut the holes in the new tail pieces yet but its obvious the new tail isn't an improvement. I think I'll sleep on this & decide what to do tomorrow.

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/21/2012 11:52 AM   
da Rock



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Nodd

Tail Feathers
One of my goals for this project was to make a new, lighter, tail. The stock 1/8'' tail-feathers weren't all that weighty but I figured I could do better. I cut a new set from 1/16'' balsa...

I added carbon fiber to strengthen the thin wood...

Next I fiber-glassed just one side using feather weight 3/4oz glass cloth...

Everything was looking good until I decided to see how much the new pieces weighed...

Just about the same weight & I've not even covered it yet. The horriz-stab was actually way heavier...

Granted I've not cut the holes in the new tail pieces yet but its obvious the new tail isn't an improvement. I think I'll sleep on this & decide what to do tomorrow.



Consider that the original pieces had no reinforcement at all and obviously survived on the manufactured models. So doubly reinforcing back there might have been one step too much.

Carbon fiber is stronger than steel. Fiberglassing is hugely stronger than balsa. The epoxy to stick 'em both down is often as heavy as the wood.

Consider what you wanted to get out of that additional strength? Would the original ever have failed? Or were you looking to never have hangar rash?

The original does have holes in it. Air is lighter than epoxy and glass cloth and even contest balsa. Holes will bring your weight down more than the original holes saved, because they will remove some of the heavier reinforcing.

Really light and smallish gliders often come through tumbles and such without a bit of damage just because they have no mass to speak of. They have no momentum when they hit stuff.

Would running a ribbon of glass span-wise provide enough strengthening to suit what you are seeking? Overlapping the strips at joints will provide enough joint reinforcement for most gliders.

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/21/2012 8:35 PM   
Nodd



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Good points, all.

My main goal was to reduce the weight of the tail. I thought by replacing the 1/8" balsa with 1/16" that'd do the trick. However, according to the rule of cubes, that makes it not 1/2 as strong but actually just a 1/4 of the original strength. So to keep things in the same ballpark I'd need to beef things up quite a lot. I liked where I was going with the carbon-fiber. The 3/4oz fiber-glass cloth is ultra light, almost like silk, I liked that too. Its the epoxy that messed me up. Even when spread out thin using a putty knife, then squished under a stack of books it still came out thick-n-heavy.

I'm no expert when it comes to glassing but I've heard epoxy can be thinned by either pre-heating the wood or by using a solvent like denatured alcohol, acetone, etc. I assume thinned epoxy would let me spread it thinner but I also hear that because its thinner it penetrates the wood more, possibly negating the weight reduction? *shrug*

I like your idea of running just a strip of fiber-glass span-wise. If I'm going to do that though I may as well just use my CF ribbon, its a lot less messy.

I believe the route of my problem is by reinforcing 1/16" balsa sufficiently so its as strong as 1/8" means it ends up weighing about the same. So why beat my self up? Just use the stock 1/8"  tail, stupid!

Some might suggest ditching the wood altogether but I'm not going to turn this into a composite ship. The idea here is cheap-n-simple mods for a cheap-n-simple glider.

< Message edited by Nodd -- 7/24/2012 11:40 PM >


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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/21/2012 9:06 PM   
da Rock



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You're working in an area that was quite busy years ago. When everyone built from kits, except for the ones who designed and built from scratch, the light-and-strong-enough details were well known by the scratch builders.

Almost always, the best way to lighten up a kit was to replace the heavy or punky wood with better. I used to troll the LHSs with a hand held scale. I'd weight all the good looking wood in their latest shipment. Mark it with a felt tip and buy what was best. Lightest isn't always the best, btw. There was never really any need to reduce sizes. In fact, it was often better to use a size larger. 3/32" ribs made a better wing than 1/16" almost every time.

Using the right wood also returned benefits. That stab you're looking to replace for example would be more rigid built out of quarter grain. Contest balsa weight q-grain would probably be lighter than what you often find in ARFs. However, don't ever expect to save a lot of weight just swapping out. If the original piece is not a lousy choice, it also won't be so heavy that there is weight enough there that replacing saves much. There really isn't a lot of weight savings in the weight of even half-decent wood.

About the CF vs glass comparison.........

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/21/2012 9:17 PM   
da Rock



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CF is magic stuff, but it's also expensive and almost always thicker than necessary.

That stab would have been servicable as is obviously. What you planned would have improved the servicability for sure, but consider what 'needed to be done' from that original as a starting point. One built from quality wood and a lighter covering (ultracote and monokote both add significant weight) would have been just as servicable and somewhat lighter.

It would make abundant sense to build your own using better wood and simply glassing it. Use the same thickness wood. The way to glass with a minimum of added weight is fairly simple.

Use epoxy like 30 minute and don't thin it too much. Heating it will really put pressure on the time you have to get even one side done. When I thinned, I also cooled the pot. The pot is going to kick quicker the more you mix. I also cooled when more than an ounce was mixed. Apply with a couple of throw away brushes taped side by side or a wide one. I never could get 3/4 cloth to keep from pulling if I tried to brush through the cloth. It can be stuck on with 3M or such before brushing, but I found that laying it on parts like your stab worked great with the stab already coated. Embracing a technique is like dating. Some suit you, some don't.

About the strengthening needed....

< Message edited by da Rock -- 6/21/2012 9:44 PM >


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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/21/2012 9:32 PM   
da Rock



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If that stab needed strengthening at the center butt joint, each side of the stab would get the 3/4 cloth 'finish coat' covering and it would be laid down so that each side got covered individually. The covering for each side would overlap the center. The stab would wind up with 2 layers overlapping the butt joint. The majority of the surface would have just the one layer.

The right amount of epoxy needed by 3/4 to give the best strength to weight will show a damp looking surface with no pinholes showing. If there are wet looking areas, most of us used absorbent toilet paper to lift off the "wet".

Some of my "own design" gliders had glassed over stabilators. Want a trick to making them light? If they were glassed, they didn't need covering. They didn't get it. They might get a trim of color, but most of my own designs were really attempts to build a better glider and all the flying surfaces may or may not find a home on the active fuselage I was working with at the time. I built probably a dozen wings for my 2meter during the 'design' stage. My Sagitta got 3 or 4 sets of stabilators while I was trying to improve it.

Gliders, especially ones with rubber band on wings, are wonderful test beds.

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/22/2012 12:15 AM   
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That's some good information there, thanks for taking the time to respond.

Before I took my 25 year break from RC I spent many years kit & scratch building, so I have a fair amount of experiance with built up balsa airframes. I will admitt I'm kinda rusty these days but the more I build the more I'm getting back that instinctive "feel" for what'll work.

I totally agree, wood selection is huge. One of the reasons I'm quite willing to abandon my efforts to improve this tail is that it appears to have been made from well selected wood. The H-stab is quite light yet ridgid. The V-stab on the otherhand is made from somewhat heavier stock that's extreemly solid which is good as it'll take a beating both from sideslip launch forces & as it strikes the ground when landing. Someone put some thought into what wood to use & where, pretty nice for an ARF.

Someone over on RCGroups (where I have a mirror build thread) also pointed out that there's not much point in covering over fiber-glassed areas, that just adds unessessary weight. He said, use paint if you need color. I was actually planning to do a hybred system, one side fiber-glass, the other covering.

Anyway I think I'll put the new tail-feathers up on a shelf & save them for a rainy day. The stock tail looks good so I'm using it.


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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/22/2012 2:40 AM   
da Rock



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Nodd
Someone also pointed out that there's not much point in covering over fiber-glassed areas, that just adds unessessary weight. He said, use paint if you need color. I was actually planning to do a hybred system, one side fiber-glass, the other covering.


Paint can add weight also. It can add a lot of weight. It's always worthwhile to weigh things before and after painting to see how good your technique is. It can surprise you. It can also depress you too.

One thing I've done a couple of times is add a bit of paint to epoxy when glassing. White works better that way than painting. When painting white, the pigment often does not show itself until it has dried. That leads people to spray and spray and spray, trying to get enough on to see the white. And they get a lot of paint and runs and weight.

As for that half and half covering......... once you get a handle on glassing, you just might glass both halves. It really is a good way to finish solid surfaces. That tail done in good light balsa and glassed with 3/4 would be almost bulletproof... slick as well.

One trick that helps greatly is to sticky tape a tail like that down solidly. Tape down the side you're not glassing. Solidly mounting the subject really makes the job easier. Seems like the job takes 3 hands even when the object is held down.


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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/22/2012 6:01 AM   
Nodd



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Mounting the Wing
Before I stick the tail on the end of the boom I needed something to align it with. That thing would be the wing, so that gets mounted first.

The wing mounts using a pin on its leading edge & a nylon screw towards the rear. After reinforcing the pin it only makes sense to do the same where it indexes the fuselage. Once again I used some of my 2mm x 11mm CF stock. I cut a slot in the fuselage through which the CF will protrude...



The CF is attached both at the top & also to the bottom of the fuselage. This should make it plenty strong...



Drilling the hole for the pin accurately was a bit of a challenge, probably should have done that before installing the CF but it came out fine...



With the pin taken care of I turned my attention to the nylon screw. The next challenge was finding the exact spot to drill through the wing. Here's a neat trick I picked up. I taped a piece of Mylar (can be anything similar) to the fuselage & marked where the hole for the screw goes...



Next I place the wing in position, make sure its square by measuring from wing tip to tail boom on both sides then as you can see, X marks the spot...



Perfect fit, the nylon screw threaded right in...



For whatever reason the Apache's fuselage has a flat wing deck, whereas the wing has dihedral at the center. So basically the wing doesn't sit pretty in its cradle, instead it teeter-totters. Another mod I read about that addresses this issue involves using silicon to create a custom fit wing saddle. First I taped some Mylar (can be anything non-stick) to the wing...



Then I gooped up the fuselage with silicon & installed the wing. Smoothed out any excess, let it set & we're good to go...



Horizontal Stabilizer Installation
With the wing mounted up I could now attach the tail. First I epoxied this little spacer/mounting block to the H-stab...



Next I made sure the airframe was square with my workbench. A simple way to do this was to support each wingtip with a couple of things that I know are the same height. A pair of coffee mugs will do...



With everything square I epoxied the h-stab to the tail-boom & held it in down with a small weight...



Even though I used 5 minute epoxy I'll let this setup overnight...



That's all for today.

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/23/2012 5:39 AM   
Nodd



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Wing Saddle
Yesterday I used silicon to create a custom fit wing saddle. I used Mylar to keep the silicon from sticking to the wing. As it turns out, silicon sticks rather well to Mylar, oops. This actually worked out though. I just trimmed around the wing saddle & left the Mylar in place. It helps protect the soft silicon, should make for a more durable wing saddle...



Vertical Stabilizer Instillation

If you're lucky enough to get a fairly new Apache chances are the tail-boom will have already been slotted, ready to receive the tail parts. If not then you'll need to do some slot making. Thankfully mine was all ready to go. I removed some covering so that the glue could stick to wood, not plastic...



Much the same as the H-stab, the V-stab is epoxied to the tail-boom. I used a block of wood to help insure its 90° to the work bench. I also double/triple checked with my carpenter's square...



Here's yet another tip I read about. The tail-boom is prone to splitting where the v-stab slot begins, its definitely a weak spot. Wrap some Kevlar around that area then CA it. That should prevent any splitting...



Rudder & Elevator
For purely esthetic reasons I chose to re-cover the rudder & elevator in white, should help tie things in with my white wing center (more on custom graphics later). This meant I needed to tape the control surfaces back onto the tail. Here's a trick I use to insure good hinge spacing. Stick a pin through some masking tape & stick it to the opposite side you intend to tape...



Then stick the control surface in place...



Note the pin-wide gap between the two surfaces...



Remove the pins then flip the model over. Apply your hinge-tape as usual. The slight gap insures the hinge will move freely both up & down with zero binding...



Control Horns
This is new to me, I've never done a pull-pull system. I understand they're ideal for DLG as they're super light, using fishing line instead of push-rods. Sounds like fun. My LHS didn't have any pull-pull double control horns so I decided to make my own...



These servo control arms are perfect for my needs. I just need to trim down the center hub...



Next I cut slots in the control surfaces...



A little CA & we're in business...



Servo Instillation
The servo tray area in the Apache is a tad too short. I've seen a couple of creative servo arrangements, one mounted the servos diagonally, another had the servos inline but with their tabs overlapping. I chose to go with the latter...



A Dremel makes short work of cutting out the servo holes...



Even though I overlapped the servo tabs, the tray area was still a tad too short. I added a small piece of spruce so I could mount the last screw...



Fat Receiver, Skinny Fuselage
Although this glider will likely spend most of its time well within park-flyer range, I wanted to use a full-range receiver so if & when I score a thermal, I can ride it out without worries of going out of range. The problem I found is that my full-range receiver is a smidgin too wide to fit...



Looking closely I noticed that the two plastic guides for the antennas were the problem. I wondered if it'd be possible to relocate the antennas.

WARNING
The following procedure will almost certainly void your warranty & may effect the receiver's performance. Proceed at your own risk.



My understanding of 2.4GHz technology is that the actual antenna is usually just the last inch of the antenna wire. Certainly with this receiver, the un-insulated ends of the two wires are the business end of these antennas. Therefore I figure its not all that important where the wires exit the receiver's case. So I cut off the offending wire guides...



Next I drilled two holes in the end of the receiver...



Threaded the antenna wires thought the new holes...



Re-assembled the case & did a test fit. Looks like it should work great. And before you ask, yes I'll be arranging the antenna tips so they're at 90° to each other & all the other good 2.4GHz stuff...



While I was test fitting things I stuck the other electronics in there to see how things looked. So far so good...



I'm headed off to a Fun-Fly this weekend so this is as far as I'm going to get for now. Hopefully I can finish this up & get her flying next week. Cya in a couple of days...

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/26/2012 8:06 AM   
Nodd



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Well I'm back from the fun-fly & yes it was fun. With my flying fix taken care of its time to get back to some building...

Pull - Pull
Instead of running solid push-rods back to the tail I'm using a lighter pull-pull system...



A tiny washer under the servo-head screw keeps the 12lb test fishing line secure. Don't use monofilament fishing line as it stretches. Spiderwire or Fireline is far better as it has zero stretch.

To keep the line from getting tangled up in the servo wires etc I ran two short lengths of push-rod tubing through the wing bay area...



The two rudder lines exit the rear of the tail-boom either side of the the v-stab & are simply tied to the control horns. A drop of CA on the knot is good insurance...



The elevator lines exit through a hole drilled in the tail-boom...



A servo control arm is used as a guide to route the wires to the elevator...



After pulling the wires taught & tinkering with the radio both the rudder & elevator are working great, zero slop & very little friction.

2.4GHz
Where to place the receiver's antennas? The short one simply sticks out the rear of the receiver & points towards the tail. The other antenna I mounted pointing straight up. I used a short piece of push-rod tubing as a guide...



Here's another view...



That's all for today. Not much more to do now, hoping to maiden her this week. Stay tuned...

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/26/2012 1:17 PM   
soarrich



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It will be interesting to see how well your tape hinges hold up to the pull-pull system.

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/26/2012 7:42 PM   
Nodd



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Yeah I supose the subtle tug of the pull-pull system might eventually cause the tape to move. At rest the control surfaces, in their neutral position, have the tape oriented sideways to the pulling force. I'll keep an eye on my hinge gap & see if that closes up over the next couple of weeks. I've used this Scotch brand "Gloss Finish Transparent Tape" on other airframes & so far no issues. Its prettly robust stuff with a slightly thicker vinyl feel not unlike packing tape, only not as wide. The other nice thing about tape is its easy to replace at the beginning of each flying season. You're right though, never used it on a pull-pull system so will see how it performs.


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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/27/2012 3:49 AM   
Nodd



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Graphics
I played around in Photoshop with some ideas for customizing my Apache. Here's a few treatments I was considering...



In the end I chose this simple layout...



CG? Don't Worry About That
I poked around on the forums trying to figure out where most folks had their CG set. Apparently people are flying with everything from the recommended 55mm from LE to a whopping 100mm back. That's a HUGE range! So in anticipation of some experimenting I marked up the wing...



Form what I've read it seems an aft CG is preferred. I set her up so she balances at 80mm from the LE (measured at the root). I expect this'll make her a tad twitchy but it should also help signal lift...



She's Ready!
All up weight came out to a tad over 12oz. Given the reinforcements to the wing & the stock tail, that's about what I was expecting. Some folks have built featherweight Apaches in the 10oz range. I'm sure they flew great until they fell apart *grin*. I'm happy with this setup, if I wanted a competition level ship I could have just forked out $400 for a composite bird. This Apache will sit in the back seat of my car ready for some spontaneous fun.



I should have maiden flight footage shortly.

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/30/2012 4:01 AM   
Nodd



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Scotty, we need more power!
After having to add weight to the nose to balance her I realized a slightly larger battery could be installed instead of some of that lead. A bigger battery means longer flight time & since using one will add no additional weight it makes sense to make the swap. Here's the larger replacement battery...



Changing the battery meant I needed to re-balance the model. I thought this might be a good opportunity to show how I usually go about doing that. First I start with a box of nails...



I then stick the model up on my balance stand...



With the larger battery installed & the nose-cone temporarily taped more or less in position, I start adding nails until she balances where I want (80mm from root LE)...



I could just use the nails as the nose weight but these fishing sinkers are more compact...



Next I weigh the nails with an accurate scale...



Then using a hacksaw I start trimming chunks off the fishing weight until it weighs the same as the nails. I'm not sure what they're made of, maybe lead or zink or something. Either way its pretty soft stuff & cuts easily...



I'd assume the worst & treat the weights as if they're lead. Ware gloves or wash hands after handling, clean up the shavings & for God's sake don't eat them!..



Next comes the fun part, I beat the snot out of it. Its malleable enough to shape till it fits nicely in the fuselage. Just watch your fingers when you're hammering or use pliers to hold it...



This looks pretty good...



Using some double-sided pressure tape...



... I secure it in the nose...



Back up on the balance stand for a final check-see...



And we're ready to fly. Anyway thought that might be of some interest. That technique works for any plane (assuming you have enough nails).

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/30/2012 4:09 AM   
Nodd



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Maiden Flight Video
Well the moment you've all been waiting for, here's the video...

Apache DLG - YouTube Video
http://youtu.be/y8l7hTzotVs?hd=1


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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 6/30/2012 7:20 AM   
Nodd



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Shopping List
Here's a list of stuff I used to complete my Apache...


Consumables
thin CA glue
thick CA glue
5 minute epoxy
30 minute epoxy
microbaloons
3/4oz fiberglass cloth
scrap covering material
silicon caulking
double-sided pressure tape

Materials
2mm x 11mm rectangular CF
CF ribbon
1/8" x 1/4" spruce
Kevlar tow
3oz fishing weight
spider wire fishing line

Hardware
small full-range receiver, 4 channel minimum
BEC
4 x Hitec HS-55 servos
Turnigy nano-tech 850mah 2S LiPo battery
2 x short servo extensions
2 x micro push-rod hardware & control horns (for ailerons)
3 x spare servo arms (for pull-pull wire guide & control horns)

Airframe
Apache DLG


Radio Setup
I used a Spektrum DX7s transmitter bound to an AR600 6 channel full-range receiver. This allowed me to program in the usual goodies like exponential, differential & some mixing here & there. Here's my current settings although I suggest you don't follow these. There's some great info out there on good DLG setups. I'd look to those first but here's what I have for now...

Ailerons - 12mm up, 7mm down, 50% expo
Elevator - 7mm up, 7mm down, 50% expo
Rudder - 11mm left & right, 50% expo

Mixes & Switches
Aileron to Rudder - 30%
Throttle to Aileron (crow) - both ailerons 7mm up
Trainer button - elevator 3mm up for launch

I plan to setup modes for cruise, thermal, etc, just haven't gotten around to that yet.

Launching
As you've probably seen from the video, I'm no expert at discus launching. Although I may have picked up the basics in short order, I have a LOT still to learn. That said the Apache seems nice & docile while on her way up. Her airfoil limits the speed some, so you're not going to see F3K competition launch altitudes. Compared to other DLGs I've seen, the Apache seems to launch in slow motion, perfect for a noob like me. She takes her time going up, plenty of time to get your hand on the right stick. Depending on the quality of my tosses, she tracks plenty straight with the occasional tendency to roll left a bit perhaps. Mark Drelas' peg design felt great, after three days worth of launches my fingers were fine. I can't say the same about my right arm though, that's pretty sore.

In the Air
Once trimmed she floats around like she's on rails. In fact, when I flew her the other day in dead calm winds, I literally could have put the transmitter down, she was that solid. As expected for a plane of this size & weight, once the wind does pickup, she tends to get tossed around a fair bit. The controls are crisp & responsive though & as long as you're on your game & have airspeed, she's fine in light to moderate winds. Stalls are extremely soft & straight ahead. I've not tried any aerobatics yet so can't comment on that other than to say the roll rate isn't super high. She turns beautifully, with no tendency to either tighten up or fall out of the turn. Once banked you only need hold a smidgen of elevator to maintain the turn. I need to experiment more with the spoilerons (crow) but for the most part they do the trick.

Thermalling
At the time I'm writing this I've scored what I'd consider three real thermals & maybe a dozen or so small bubbles of lift. Its abundantly obvious when you hit any turbulence, the Apache signals loud & clear. If like me, you're used to larger/heavier sailplanes & electric gliders, you'll be impressed at just how little lift it takes to keep the Apache aloft. Her ability to turn on a dime also means you can work really small stuff right down to ground level. My other sailplanes feel like driving a bus in comparison.

Conclusion
So what do we think of the Apache overall? Well the build took a lot of time for something billed as an ARF. Then again I did monkey around with a lot of stuff. The total lack of instructions is unforgivable. Anyone buying one of these as a first or second plane would be utterly lost. Hopefully this build log will help with that though. The quality of the parts is excellent although the wings have a quirky tendency to forget their shape. I've had to use the heat-gun on them several times now to remove warping. That stuff is soon forgotten once she's in the air though. For an entry level, built-up balsa, el-cheapo, DLG she flies like a million bucks. Don't expect to win many F3K events competing against composite ships but down at the park on your lunch break, the simple fun-factor of this pretty little bird is hard to beat.

If you're thinking of giving DLG a try or if you want a competent practice/backup rig the Apache might be for you. Cheap, well made, fair performance, fun.

< Message edited by Nodd -- 7/25/2012 12:15 AM >


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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 7/6/2012 4:39 AM   
Nodd



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Time to Re-Cover
So I decided to re-cover the wings using an alternate brand of shrink-wrap covering. The hope is that'll solve the Apache's warping wing issue.

I'm a fan of Ultracote, I like the way it applies plus I can't say I've had any issues with it not maintaining its shape, once shrunk it stays shrunk. The first step was to remove the old evil Oracover covering...



With her down to bare-bones I took the opportunity to round the other wingtip so it matched the launch peg side...



Started applying the Ultracote...



The graphics are a little different this time around...



Here she is with the new covering all done. I like the yellow wing-tip as it highlights where the launch peg is, should come in handy if I ever get good enough to catch her by the peg & insta-re-launch. I moved the white section away from the center so I could showoff my nifty wing-joint mods through the transparent red. She's a tad odd looking but I think it works..



Flaperons instead of Spoilerons
I swapped the ailerons over & re-installed them up-side-down. This allowed me to configure them as flaperons instead of spoilerons, can't wait to give those a try...




Mixing, Mixing & More Mixing

After watching Radio Carbon Art's Handlaunch Pro Clinic DVD I decided to go a little nutz with my radio's mixing. Note I've not test flown with these mixes yet...

Mix 1 - Ailerons to Rudder
Nothing too special here, when the ailerons move the rudder also moves. Much of thermalling is all about making smooth tight turns. Mixing in a little rudder helps keep the turns coordinated especially when the glider is far away & its difficult to see what's going on.

Mix 2 - Throttle to Ailerons
As with all my gliders that have spoilerons, flaperons, crow, etc, I use the left stick (throttle) to activate the flaps. In this case, lowering the throttle lowers the flaperons.

Mix 3 - Throttle to Elevator
As the flaperons go down the elevator does the same to keep the nose from ballooning.

Mix 4 - Gear to Ailerons
Although the Apache's airfoil & small ailerons aren't ideal for in-flight camber control, I wanted to play around with it anyway. I programed three flight modes controlled via my three position flap switch...
Position 1 - Speed
Both ailerons raise slightly reducing the wing's drag a little, glider should fly a tad faster.

Position 2 - Cruise
Ailerons remain in their neutral position, business as usual, normal flight.

Position 3 - Thermal
Both ailerons lower slightly increasing the wing's camber. This slows things down & should help tighten up my turns.
Mix 5 - Trainer to Ailerons
This is a launch mode function. By holding down the trainer button during launch the ailerons add a very slight right roll to help counter my current horrible left hook. I know, I know, I should work on my technique, not mask my bad habbits with a mix. Releasing too late seems to be my problem. I'm just curious if this mix will help. I'll probably dump this mix once I get my release timing down.

Mix 6 - Trainer to Rudder
This is another function of my launch mode button. With the trainer button depressed a little right rudder is mixed in. I'll likely keep this mix as it should help reduce sideslip during launch & hopefully improve my launch height.

Mix 7 - Elevator to Flaperons
This mix is often seen in 3D aircraft but it was featured in my Radio Carbon Art DLG video so I figured I'd give it a try. Basically when you raise the elevator, the flaperons go down. Conversely, when the elevator goes down, the flaperons go up. Assuming I have this around the right way, it supposedly helps during tight turns. I'll be keeping this one on a switch so I can turn it on/off. If I like it I may add it to my thermal flight mode.

Again I've not tested these mixes yet. I'll report on how they workout on the Apache. Hoping to have some fun playing with all this tomorrow...




< Message edited by Nodd -- 7/6/2012 5:23 AM >


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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 7/6/2012 5:01 AM   
soarrich



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Nodd

Time to Re-Cover
So I decided to re-cover the wings using an alternate brand of shrink-wrap covering. The hope is that'll solve the Apache's warping wing issue.

I'm a fan of Ultracote, I like the way it applies plus I can't say I've had any issues with it not maintaining its shape, once shrunk it stays shrunk. The first step was to remove the old evil Oracover covering...



It's the same stuff. Though there is a lite-weight in transparent colors. I was probably covered with Chinacoat.

From Sig's site:
Available in two color schemes, the RASCAL 72 EG ARF is meticulously covered with premium UltraCote® (aka ORACOVER®) transparent blue or red with white trim.


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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 7/6/2012 5:35 AM   
Nodd



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My understanding is that Ocracover is "Ultracote Lite". Not sure if that means the transparent stuff as you suggested or if its something else *shrug*. I noticed the Ultracote red is somewhat different than what's on the plane so its not exactly the same stuff. Either way I've covered other models with this transparent red Ultracote & they haven't repeatedly warped on me like the Apache's wing. So I'm fairly confident that issue is fixed, fingers crossed.

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RE: Apache DLG - Mods - 7/6/2012 12:03 PM   
soarrich



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I saw a video on the AVA once and they used the lite, but thier wing isn't using the strength of the film. I think I read the BubbleDancer needs Monokote or the tips will flutter, but nowdays I lot of people question if Monokote is really the same stuff it was 10 years ago.

Radio Carbon Art's Handlaunch Pro Clinic DVDis great stuff! Did you also get Secrets of Thermal Soaring? I found it had everything I had learned in ten years of flying sailplanes.

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