tsull

Thanks Dan,
Where did you order the IR's? Our next battle is next week. If I can purchase and have them delivered, I'll swap them in and report back on how they performed.
tjs

B.A.D.A.S.S.Force

I have 2 of the first batch TK20-T1 boards & 4 of the TK20E boards, & nothing had to be done to have the IR work on any of them but plugging in working IR LEDs.

I think Dan already gave the best advice to troubleshoot the issue. Plug in the flash LED or another known working LED to the Clark board IR port & fire. If the LED lights, the IRport is working & should work with an IR LED too. I would suspect as Dan did for an IR that didn't light up, that maybe the IR leads are either reversed, or there was something wrong with the IR used, so I would then try some other IR LEDs.

If the regular LED doesn't light up when connected to the IR port & firing, then re-connect the same LED to the board's flash port & fire again just to make 100% sure the LED used for the testing lights up & is still working. If it does light up connected to the flash port, then you know something is up with the Clark board IR port because it wouldn't light the working known LED. At that point I would use a multi-meter to check the voltage output of the IR port to see if it is working at all.


~ Craig ~

YHR

Mouser stocks the TSAL 5100's

I am not sure but the IR led you got with your DBC might be a 5100. I can't remember exactly when I started using them as the standard, but it was around the time you purchased your DBC3. IF it is light blue and not clear it probably is a 5100.

B.A.D.A.S.S.Force

I bought some TSAL5100's from Mouser before, but they were the blueish tinted ones.
I was there earlier today on their site & did a quick look again, still seems to be the blueish ones only after reading the data sheet on the one they have listed below.

TSAL5100


Find anyone that might sell water clear TSAL5100 IRLEDs, or do they even manufacture them in clear at all?

Just wondering since I want to mount the flash LED behind the IR in the barrels of all or most my tanks if I can, so I really was wanting to pick up some if they had them in clear type.

~ Craig ~

Green Amphibian

Check with Joe at armorcreations for a clear IR LED. I know he had some, but not sure he still does.

Herman

YHR

Yes the ones I have are tinted as well.

B.A.D.A.S.S.Force

Thanks Herman, I do have some water clear IR LED's already that I can use, it's just that I'm specifically looking for some water clear 5mm Vishay TSAL5100 IR LEDs because of their specs, that is, if they actually even make them. I am starting to believe this particular model only comes in a blueish tint.

Joe doesn't list the actual manufacturer part number or any specs of the clear 5mm IR LED's he is selling, I doubt they are the TSAL5100's (just guessing because odds would be in my favor they aren't ), but I can say that even if they were, the $5 price would most likely frighten me away anyway .... I'm cheap, so I'd just stick to the blueish tint TSAL5100 that I can get for less than 50¢ a piece.

~ Craig ~

Strato50

Ok, here's the scoop. Im installing the Clark in my KV-2 at the moment, and so far most things are running ok.

I have recoil issues! Im using the Asiatam recoil unit. Elevation is fine.. with the white and blue wires (they come off the positive lead of each motor) connected, it was randomly recoiling during elevation... Should i disconnect these?

When I fire the gun, flash works fine... now, should I be in Tamiya recoil mode, or HL? I dont want to start rewiring switches if I'm in the wrong mode.

The recoil motor doesnt even twitch when I fire the gun.

Hobby_Havoc_Australia

This is one popular thread these boards must be good [8D]

tomhugill

Sorry if it's not the answer you hoped for but everyone I've seen using the asiatam recoil Clark combo have butchered the recoil and adapted it to use a servo. Works really well though and a servo is cheap.

Strato50

In the last 5 minutes I have gotten it to work!

The trick is... completely IGNORE the wiring that comes on the asiatam unit... it wont work in that state at all. Follow the Clark wiring guide, and it will work fine. Ill try to explain as best I can.

First off, Tamiya mode is correct. It is an OPEN type contact switch on the unit, not a SHORT contact switch such as on HL units.

I used Heng Long style connections on the underside of my top hull, so, the little square printed circuit boards and 8 pin connector between top and bottom hull.

My issue was polarity & proper use of power on the recoil motor. Unlike the turret ROTATION & ELEVATION motor, which can be +/- or -/+ and not matter (it will just go opposite), you have to get the polarity of the Recoil motor right. I used a battery to test it manually then lable the +/-

The recoil motor needed all new, longer wires to reach under the upper hull. The blue & white "short" wires are useless in this setup, cut them, The "long" thick, red Ground wire, useless, cut it. Motor wires to the Recoil sensing switch (as mentioned above), CUT THEM TOO... lol

Pin 3 on the 8-pin connector is the + you need for the recoil. Its actually used to power the headlights & machine gun, I just soldered it to the forward circuit board.

Pin 4 is the " - " you need. It's not shared with anything, and is on the most-rearward circuit board, right next to the turret rotation motor. Soldered it there, and presto. All works.

Now you have to just solder 2 new leads from the Recoil switch, as the previous ones were too short and useless, and plug them into the "extra" dangling connector on the HL High Flash unit. If you dont have one, they plug into the board itself (see Clark website)

Ill post some pics ASAP explaining basically what I did...

Thanks guys!

Strato50

Demonstrating the TK-22 RU in my KV-2, as of this morning. I like this board.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqWbn0qLwVI[/youtube]

FreakyDude

awesome vid Strato

Airbrushler

looks good and sounds great Stratos

Strato50

HeyGreg, hows your Panther coming along with the clark board? I remember the video you posted last of it, fully functional?


Also, I'm looking for a good sensor unit, a TBU or a DBU, where can I get one at a reasonable price?

Airbrushler

trying to remember someone posted a Leo and while driving it he had tob go up and to the right to drive foward straight with the controler ... well mine drives like that maybe it's normal how about yours?

as for the DBU

http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&...x6hD9vR68Jfrog

i don't know if YellowShaker sells them or not, or Freakydude

Strato50

Sounds like a weird setup... or a radio needs its trims set up badly.

I have mine set up exactly like the SLU function and drive wise. I had to de-sensitize the aileron (steering left & right for me) because I had to go ALL the way to make even small turns.. but you need a computer radio for that. It drives normally for me.

YHR

Once you get everything working,abandon the Clark stick mapping, and switch the servo cables around. I had my Clark board set up exactly the same as the Heng Long Standard for driving the tank..

FreakyDude

Strato what radio and reciever combo you using? I am mapping out all the different radio's so that folks can set up the clark boards in a variety of different combinations.

Strato50

Im using a Spektrum DX6i, with a AR 600 spektrum reciever. I have it set up like SLU controls.. left stick functions, MG, engine, turret rotation, and fire, right stick throttle and steering.

clarkmodel

TK22-KV1 preview:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fE4Vjx9jXCc&list=UUtwaop58N19jaI9nCLwQ_hg& index=1[/youtube]

Release date: 3/10

Strato50

So I hooked up a HL sensor unit (one of the blue plastic ones) and the white LED that came with my clark board, and tried to program it with the Sony remote...

I got zero response.. I made sure the remote was working through a digital camera, so its sending signals.. Not sure if the HBU is faulty, or the right kind.. The white LED flickers when I turn on power, but nothing else...

Is there a way to make sure the remote is properly programmed?

B.A.D.A.S.S.Force

Heng Long sensors will work for programming, & I believe the blue apples are pinned out the same as the silver/black HL sensors, so unless the sensor in the apple itself is faulty, it should probably work.

But how exactly are you connecting the HL sensor to the Clark board CN2 plug while trying to program it, alligator clips with wires, using original HL wiring, or using one of Clark's pre-made apple bases?

These may be obvious, but for starters ...~ Craig ~

Strato50

Great timing Craig!

I just got it to work, I had 2 wires in the wrong spot on the HBU, and didn't notice...WOW! Programming Clark boards is... fun... awesome.. fantastic! I turned on Momentum, it's perfect. I removed the Pivot function altogether (KV-2, didnt pivot, right?). It was going into pivot mode while driving normally, I didn't like that.. now that it's gone, one track comes to a stop during 'hard' turns. Perfect.

Also turned on machine gun signal, hehe... I like that function.

These boards are better than Tamiya as far as flexibility and customization is concerned. I prefer the SLU sound-wise, and it's a great battling & driving unit, very precise controls.

I hope to see very many more Clark boards on the field asap... Now we just need battle sensors...!

Airbrushler

all fixed Thanks for the help Stratos

i wanted mine loud i added some more speakers at the vents...lol

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8ff1mnzJg0&feature=player_detailpage[/youtube]