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opening Pershing hull hatches - 7/16/2012 5:34 AM   
pattoncommander



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From: Columbia, SC, USA
Status: offline 		Someone posted a thread long ago on opening molded Pershing hull hatches using a thread. Would like to find info on this method.

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RE: opening Pershing hull hatches - 7/16/2012 4:19 PM   
mustclime



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Status: offline 		I have always just done it with a micro drill and a knife...







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RE: opening Pershing hull hatches - 7/16/2012 9:38 PM   
pattoncommander



Posts: 4981
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Status: offline 		thanks, might give it a shot, but was interested in the thread deal.

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RE: opening Pershing hull hatches - 7/17/2012 2:18 PM   
mustclime



Posts: 1199
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Status: offline 		For the tread trick, you need the to clamp the plasic hull so you can draw the twine/thread without loading/cracking the hull....I just do not have the a clamping system to do this. The main trick with the drill trick is to use a very small bit angled inward so you will have an tappered seam for the hatch to fit into.....you want the rough edges as you then smear green putty on these rough edges to fill in the holes that you just drilled..then you sand them.This results in almost no seam or loss of plastic if you do it right . The thread trick results in a loss of plastic the thickness of the thread.  

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RE: opening Pershing hull hatches - 7/18/2012 1:01 AM   
pattoncommander



Posts: 4981
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From: Columbia, SC, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Scott.

I'll probably do the drill thing..I have some really thin ones. The hatch will not be closing though. The driver's hatch should be open with a driver, as the T-23 was a research tank and a tank in testing is rarely driven buttoned up. I have the rear redone with the rounded features and tow cable brackets and Nick's aluminum 76mm gun in, and it's starting to look more historically correct.

Now I'll start on the hatch and put in a driver.

Bill

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RE: opening Pershing hull hatches - 7/18/2012 8:23 PM   
pattoncommander



Posts: 4981
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Joined: 12/28/2006
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From: Columbia, SC, USA
Status: offline 		Got it...now have the hatch open with latch & pad and a civilian test driver. Add the tow cable & once everything's dry, some touch up.
Still have a bit of file work on the hatch edges, but easy to get at and the upper chassis does not need any screws.

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