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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/27/2012 3:41 AM   
Perry S.



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Status: offline 		I think you will be happy with the extra support. I ended up running an axle shaft through the idler holes all the way through the tank. I have bearings in my idlers.

Keep up the good work.

Perry



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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/27/2012 6:24 AM   
blitzkrieg65



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Perry S.

I think you will be happy with the extra support. I ended up running an axle shaft through the idler holes all the way through the tank. I have bearings in my idlers.

Keep up the good work.

Perry




Hey Perry,

You have to tell us where you get the bearing what size to order. I think you gave me that info and I can't find it, and I can't find them googling them. I think I found some but they are out of Australia so if you have a local source please let us know?

Good Post Craig lots of good info here....

Phil

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/27/2012 3:50 PM   
DirtyBird69



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Status: offline 		Please post some pics and any part specific info on your modification...I'd be very curious as I would like to do the same thing to mine...

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/27/2012 5:02 PM   
AFV432


 

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Status: offline 		Nice job so far Craig

hmmm idlers ive seen a few with the whole assy broken mine was one of those sooooo a bit of brass and some tinkering i made a whole adjustable idler lol





i also added some bearings to the gearbox driveshafts and after a little cleanup with the dremel they fit nice and snug







they are 8mm i.d. by 15mm o.d. flanged bearings

keep up a great build i for one will be watching


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/27/2012 5:37 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		One thing that always comes in handy with metal upgrades on the HL tanks, & sometimes even on tanks without the upgrades, is to clock the springs so the suspension returns the tank to the correct height over its road wheels while moving or just sitting there. My KV-1 actually had fairly decent spring return already, & looked pretty good, but seemed it still could use a little more ... so, being slightly bored last night, another simple mod I did was to clock some springs on the road wheels like I had done with my Panther G earlier.

In testing the spring tension in each of the 12 road wheels, it felt as if the front most, as well as farthest back road wheel on each side, had already been clocked for more tension. Their tension was much more than the other 8 middle road wheels. The stiffness & current return of the suspension was very close to where I wanted it anyway, so I decided I would just clock the adjacent road wheel to each of the factory clocked wheels on each side, rather than clock them all. This would leave the middle 4 road wheels unclocked with softer tension.

I started by clocking the second road wheel from the drive sprocket wheel. Rather than take off more wheels than necessary, I just loosened the hex bolt on the wheels marked with the red circles below, enough so that I could lift them slightly & allow them to release the tension on the spring & swing away from the wheel I needed to remove fully for clocking ... in this case, the wheel with its bolt circled in green.


With the bolts loosened the wheels swing nicely out of the way of the second road wheel I'll be working on, now to remove that wheel by fully removing its bolt.


With the road wheel finally (& carefully) removed you can see the spring in its normal unclocked position. I say carefully as a warning, only because if you don't hold the wheel tight, lift it just a slightly, & swing the wheel back letting the wheel's spring tension release, the wheel, arm, & spring may fly out of your hand away from you.


Pull out the spring & we can see the different positions where we can insert the spring for either a normal unclocked stock position, or the clock position for getting the stronger spring tension.


Inserting the spring back into the hole in the clock position it looks like this


The trickiest part happens now, as you have to place the wheel & swing arm properly back down over the spring, holding some down pressure. At this point use your free hand to screw the hex bolt into the hole just a couple turns.


Then swing the wheel back into its locked position on the hull, & finally you can tighten the hex bolt. Make sure to always hold the wheel & arm securely with some down pressure, otherwise it may fly out of your hand. Now I can swing the loosened up wheels back into their proper position & tighten their bolts as well. Now onto the second road wheel near the front idler.


For the second front wheel I only needed to loosen the road wheel closest to the idler wheel location (bolt circled in red) & swing it out of the way, then repeat the same clock procedure on the wheel with the green circle, & side one is done! Repeat on side two & finished!


In the end I did find that one of the outside road wheels, which had been factory clocked, was slightly weaker & still had a little less tension than the rest of the clocked springs. I decided to remove a middle road wheel & swap springs with that wheel too to stiffen it up to match the other clocked wheels tension. In the end I have 8 springs clocked & the tank sits & rides very nice!

~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/30/2012 10:04 AM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		I decided to go ahead & take off the stock plastic exhaust pipes, drill them out, & make it functional anyway. I'm making a scratch built smoker to put in the front of the tank, & moving the speaker back along side the RX-18 for now.

Heng Long currently has the smoker exhaust exit out the tail light (circled in red), so I'll have to direct the smoke to the actual exhaust pipes (circled in green) to correct this abomination.


From the underside of the hull you can see the plastic tabs of both exhaust pipes which have been secured with glue.


The first thing I did was to take an Exacto knife & dig all the way around each of the tabs to weaken the gluing bond. I could have waited till after the exhaust pipes were removed from the hull, but at this time I also decided to electric drill small pilot holes up through the tabs & into the pipes themselves. I did this very carefully, making sure not to drill too far so the drill wouldn't exit out the top of either of the pipes.



I then flipped the hull over & used a small screwdriver to gently pry up on each of the pipes to loosen the bond & to lift them very slightly


I then used a pair of pliers in a gentle rocking back & forth motion to extract the pipes very easily. I used some electrical tape to protect the pipe from the plier jaws & marking it up. I learned this of course because the first pipe I did mark up (you can see it in some pics) ... ooops, , nothing a little sanding won't cure ... or maybe just leave it for now & then make it into some battle damage later on down the road.



With the pipes pulled, it was time to use the knife to remove the rest of the little tab hanging down which used to hold it in place


Once the remaining bit of tab was cut away flat, I started on widening the underside pilot hole I previously drilled, a little bit at a time, by using progressively larger sized drill bits. Because the plastic is rather soft & the hole was so shallow anyway, I actually did the extra drilling by hand just holding each bit with pliers, rather than using the electric drill.


One side's first hole finished, other side waiting ... The final size drill bit was determined by the size of the mounting tube I was going to insert into this hole, which was donated by a wire butt splice connector that was cut in half.


After finishing both pipes underside mounting tube holes, it was time to drill a pilot hole through the pipe again, this time from the outside flange area through to meet up with this first hole. I did use the electric drill for this delicate operation.


Success was immediately evident, as you can see the light shining all the way through the pipe now. I then used a slightly larger bit to make the initial pilot hole just a wee bit larger. So depending on how well or how poorly the smoke exits the pipes as they are, I may have to expand this hole to be a little bigger ... guess I'll find out soon enough!


Since I didn't have any of the right sized copper tubing around, or any plastic ones either, I commandeered a wire butt splice connector (shown in the pic), cut it in half, removed the outter nylon coating, then used the copper pipe inside it for the exhaust pipe mounts. I glued the copper pipe into the plastic exhaust pipe, then filled any little gap or slit I could find so smoke won't leak, &  smoothed up the edges on the copper pipe a bit (after this pic). Both exhaust pipes done, & are now ready for mounting to the hull ... a job for tomorrow.


~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/30/2012 2:39 PM   
MAUS45



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Status: offline 		Did your KV have a HL smoker in it, if so was it installed next to the RX18?

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/30/2012 5:39 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		Yes Rudy, the KV-1 did have a non-proportional smoker installed in it, but it was not located next to the RX-18. Instead, it was actually squeezed right in between the white metal gearboxes at the very back. After switching to the MATO 3:1 gearboxes there is no room at all for the stock smoker to squeeze back into the same area. The best solution I could come up with, & without too much rewiring or modification, was to move the speaker from the very front area of the tank & put the new smoker in that location.

~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/30/2012 7:30 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		To continue on with the functional exhaust ...
After removing both exhaust pipes you are left with 2 oblong holes in the upper hull


Taking the appropriate drill bit to fit the exhaust copper mounting tubes, & best as I could, I center drilled each hole


& ended up with this ... ehhhh, close enough


I inserted the exhaust pipes mounting tubes through the new holes. From the underside of the hull a look ...


From the top they look pretty much as they did from stock . . .


. . . except for the new holes all the way through them which will hopefully allow the new smoker to vent the smoke through them well enough. I am already prepared in advance to have to do more tinkering on this, because barely anything I seem to do on these tanks works first time, haha.


Next up will be finishing the new home-made smoker unit, installing it into the front of the tank, & routing a tube back to the exhaust pipes.

~ Craig ~



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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/30/2012 8:21 PM   
MAUS45



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Status: offline 		Someone in this forum did a conversion for a Tamiya Tiger II adding a HL smoker to it and had trouble locating the smoker to far from the exhaust. It had something to do with the solution cooling before it got to the exhaust stacks to exit as smoke. It would just condense from the smoke vapor back to liquid and not produce enough exhaust smoke or none. Not that this will happen with your design, just something to consider as you put this together.

The guy who did the Tiger II ended up moving the smoker closer to the exhaust exit to fix the issue.

I tried to search the build for this but couldn't find it. Just trying to give you every tip and angle so you don't reinvent the wheel just to find it is flat, if ya know what I mean.

Hope this helps,

Rudy

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/30/2012 8:46 PM   
mustclime



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Status: offline 		i read someplace that the trick with the kv1 smoker is not to have really long tubes from the smoker to the "vent".....on most tanks the smoker and the vents are in the lower hull....the modded kv1 have the vents on the upper hull so a lot of people that do this mod make the tubes that conect the smoker to the vents longer so you can open the tank. these longer tubes give the smoke more time to condence back to a "oil"....one guy, I forget who, mounted the smoker to the upper hull to shorten the tubes, another fix i say was a hard mounted coupleing that kepts things short..........looks good btw

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/30/2012 8:58 PM   
ausf



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Status: offline 		Rudy, that makes sense.

I tried a few different designs with project boxes, fans, resistors, all the great stuff that's been posted, using glycerin, alcohol, etc and on the bench they worked great, smoking away nicely for any length of time. In my StuG, I put the smoker in the front, behind the motors and ran a 1/2" ID brass tube to the rear where it split to the mufflers. There was a short 2" run of the HL tubing to connect it to the brass. While it smoked well when first started, it would always collect condensation in the clear tube and form sort of a vapor lock. If I took it apart and blew it out, it would work again.

Whether it was the wider tubing, distance or cooling action of the brass I don't know, I never really went further because when I added the traverse mechanism, amp and larger Visation speaker I ran out of room anyway.

Beautiful work so far Craig, great write up too.

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/30/2012 9:33 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		Thanks for the kind comments & good tips everyone, it definitely makes perfect sense that I might have issues with such a long run of tubing as the hot vapor condenses along the way. Not only that, but it's a long way for the fan to push that much air too. I would imagine with these setups the best scenario, regardless of what they are installed into, would always have the shortest tube lengths from smoker to exhaust exit. Unfortunately, without heavily modding the interrior plastic in the hull (like removing the battery tray & the switches), & doing a complete re-wiring to shift everything around, there just isn't room anywhere else near the back that I can see right now to fit my new smoker.

Later this year when I expect to replace the HL electronics, I'll probably mod the hull & try to re-position & route everything more efficiently.  Looks like I'm stuck with that location for the smoker & having either a good or bad experience with it for now. Hey, maybe a little insulation tape on the long piping to keep the heat in better ... just grabbing for any straws hehe

~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/30/2012 9:36 PM   
Perry S.



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Status: offline 		It sounds like the length of the tube can create condensation problems which makes sense. It's been a while since I have had one apart but I don't remember any check valves in that piston pump. That is why you get that chugging effect as opposed to a steady stream that you see with the fan mods. That would mean that your tubing system can't have a volume greater than the volume of the pumps cylinder. It would pump out the smoke on the upstroke and suck it back in on the downstroke. Just a though, as I said, it has been a while since I opened one up.

Perry



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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/30/2012 9:45 PM   
ausf



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ORIGINAL: B.A.D.A.S.S.Force

... just grabbing for any straws



This might be your best bet.

Strmnd54 has done some amazing work with existing smokers as well as installing in the turret to force smoke out of the muzzle with recoil. He uses plain old drinking straws for all his plumbing.

I spend hours routing and soldering brass pipe and get nothing. He takes a few straws and it's like a Cheech and Chong movie.

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/31/2012 5:46 PM   
MAUS45



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Status: offline 		"Nice Dreams"? Very funny!!! Craig I also meant to say I like the way you reworked the exhaust stacks in my first post. I am going to try this method on my Stug III G exhaust.

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/31/2012 7:12 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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ORIGINAL: ausf

This might be your best bet.

Strmnd54 has done some amazing work with existing smokers as well as installing in the turret to force smoke out of the muzzle with recoil. He uses plain old drinking straws for all his plumbing.

I spend hours routing and soldering brass pipe and get nothing. He takes a few straws and it's like a Cheech and Chong movie.

You're telling me ... Strmnd54's smoker mods & use are amazing, that Panzer smoking gun barrel is extremely cool to watch (Panzer smoking barrel)!

I think going with larger diameter tubing than the clear tubing HL uses (& I'm currently using in my own smoker) is probably the way to go to cut down on the probability that condensation will block the tubes. Depending on your fan/air pump power, there is going to be a fine line between perfect & too big a diameter of tube used, as well as how far you intend to push the smoke from the smoking unit to the exhaust exit. Strmnd54's experimenting is stellar, & he seems to come back time & time again with another tweak to enhance his already advanced smokers.

~ Craig ~

P.S.   as a teenager growing up in the 80's, I loved the Cheech & Chong stuff ...



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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/31/2012 10:15 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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ORIGINAL: MAUS45

"Nice Dreams"? Very funny!!! Craig I also meant to say I like the way you reworked the exhaust stacks in my first post. I am going to try this method on my Stug III G exhaust.


The thing that concerned me was the large hole in the bottom of the exhausts. Make the hole too big or too far off center & you break through the sides of them ... I got lucky & it worked out OK. 

Though I'll say the one thing about messing with these tanks that has me shaking my head laughing at myself sometimes, is the difficulty at finding inexpensive & quick local access to parts you might need at any given moment when you decide to mod something. It never fails, as I also never seem to have a spare donor part I could use just lying around the house either. The exhaust a latest example, I need to either find a local place to purchase some tube Y splitters, buy them online & have to wait for them, or just go ahead & make something up.  

Also, my vote would be for "Up in Smoke" as still my favorite movie from that delightful deliriously doped-up duo.

~ Craig ~







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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/31/2012 11:05 PM   
Airbrushler



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Status: offline 		i only put one tube to a styrene manifold that i epoxied over the two exhuast pipes

it's not pretty but it worked

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/31/2012 11:22 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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i only put one tube to a styrene manifold that i epoxied over the two exhuast pipes

it's not pretty but it worked

Airbrushler ... I have seen what you can do with your tanks, & have to say you do fantastic work ... but what the .......... haha. Out of sight, out of mind ... It works, that's all that counts.

I have seen a couple other tankers on various forums who had done manifold type fittings to their exhausts as well. I was thinking of doing a manifold too, but with a slightly different styling than that real looker!

~ Craig ~



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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 7/31/2012 11:32 PM   
Airbrushler



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Status: offline 		hehehe i know it was not a well thought out install on the manifold...lol

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 8/1/2012 1:33 PM   
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Status: offline 		gives me alot of ideas for my KV-1! didnt worked on it yet, I enjoy running it too much!

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 8/1/2012 3:53 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: Airbrushler

i only put one tube to a styrene manifold that i epoxied over the two exhuast pipes

it's not pretty but it worked

I might have to give this method a try, I have plenty of dog turds in the yard to experiment with.


Cheers,
Wade

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 8/1/2012 6:59 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		Here are some shots of the new home-made smoker (for now, non-proportional ) & the new manifold.

The smoker consists of a Radio Shack 3"x2"x1" project box, Kevlar rope wick, small 5V fan, & a 1W 4.7 Ohm metal oxide film flameproof resistor. I opened up a big hole over the resistor & I added a little plasticard box above it, then used another butt splice connector as the tube nipple. I just wanted the exit tube to be farther away from the resistor heat & any direct bubbling action that would happen as the home-made fog fluid vaporizes.




Here is the mounting area for the smoker. I will be using magnets glued to the lower hull & to the bottom of the smoker to hold it in place, as well as allow me to easily pull it out for filling & maintenance!


The manifold was a donation from an old pen I had lying around, which actually works excellently , & doesn't look like, ummmm ... well, you know.   I think with a little paint, it will make an even better looking manifold!




I ran it for about 15 minutes straight yesterday & it works OK, as I do get a steady stream of smoke from both exhaust pipes.  There is a lot of condensation that can be seen in the long tube as I run it, & maybe over a greater amount of time I might experience a smoke blockage, but it never did seem to slow down the amount of smoke over the those 15 minutes. However, I would like even more smoke than what I am currently seeing coming out. Not sure if it's the home-made flog fluid mixture I used, or the fan I am using isn't quite powerful enough, or maybe even going to a wider tube to carry the smoke. I'll be doing more testing over the course of this week, & hopefully come up with a solution. I'll try to get some video of it working soon too.

I also have a little bit of air/smoke leakage around the resistor wire connection holes as well as some of the project box lid. I can make up some kind of rubber gasket, or even use something like Shoe Goo to seal the project box lid from escaping smoke, but I'm not quite sure what to use to fill the holes around the hot resistor wires which won't just melt away or bubble out from the heat & air pressure ... I presume I need something like a heat resistant silicon or some kind of heat resistant epoxy filling ... I was hoping something I already might have would work, but it seems I may have to go out locally Home Depot,Lowes,Walmart) or buy something online for this specific task.

~ Craig ~






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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 8/2/2012 2:10 AM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



Posts: 707
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Last Login: 6/19/2013
From: Sellersville, PA, USA
Status: offline 		Here's a quick silent video of the new smoker working with the modded exhaust.




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       Post #: 50



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