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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/17/2012 4:06 PM   
clarkmodel


 

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ORIGINAL: B.A.D.A.S.S.Force

quote:

ORIGINAL: 1sgt

Wow again the sounds are incredible. I also really like the turret rotation sound. Don't think KV 1's or even T-34's had electric traverse, just had cranks. So I can just imagine Ivan cranking that handwheel like all get out ,LOL I wonder if you could put a seperate potntiameter in line from the engine circuit?

Jim

Though the KV-1 had a hand cranking system for the turret for fine gun sight tuning or emergency use (like most WWII tanks), I believe it also had an electric motor to turn it normally. Anyone with an accepted verified source which will answer that question, a link would be great.

Unfortunately, from what I know, there is no way to separate the engine sounds from the other sounds on these TK20 boards, to specifically be able to lower just the engine volume, at least not by using something as simple as a pot. That's OK, I think I can live with it.

~ Craig ~





Traverse sound on RU version board is from a real T-34 in a very poor & rare recording, we spend lot of time to process and edit  it to achieve the sound quality we want.

Regards,
Clark




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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/22/2012 11:03 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		OK, so I said earlier I would upload some pictures of my servo
barrel recoil unit that I did, & which was shown in my earlier video.

 

It was simple, just a hack job where the servo was screwed onto the back of the original HL recoil unit & a thick
metal pin was fashioned & bent to work as the recoil pulling arm for the servo. Very crude, but worked fine
as you could see in my servo recoil video demonstrating it.

Here it is too with the barrel elevation motor/mechanism also installed.



The elevation mechanism works with the motor unit by simply rotating a disc that has a slanted arc, in a full 360°,
while the recoil unit has a tab that fits under this arced disc. A spring under the recoil unit (shown below) provides
pressure, so the barrel raises & lowers as the disc spins.




I then I decide I also wanted to change from using this barrel elevation unit, to also using a servo to move the barrel up & down.
So in the process I decided to start over from scratch because I also had to think about the IR receiver plug which also had to be
mounted in the commander cupola hatch right under where the current barrel elevation motor was situated in the picture shown
earlier
.
So first, everything came out to have an open & clean start.





~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/22/2012 11:10 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		The first thing I wanted to do, was to add back the barrel pivot mount which was part of an insert, as shown below in yellow.





I didn't need the whole thing to be put back in, so I cut the piece I needed that has the barrel mount on it, & installed the smaller piece back into place.
Now the barrel pivot mount was restored back to a working mount ready for the HL barrel recoil unit to be put back in its holding place.






~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/22/2012 11:24 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		The next thing was to mount the new Clark apple plug for use with any TBU, DBU, or Impact IR receiver apples
under the commander's cupola hatch. I glued Clark's round apple plug mount to a styrene mounting bracket
which screwed into a couple mounting stems already there.





With the recoil unit mounted, it was obvious that the back of it would contact the new apple plug base. So I
had to notch out the plug so the barrel elevation would be able to swing into a little bit more downward position.

Notice these pictures still have the recoil servo attached to the rear of the recoil unit where I originally placed it.
That will soon be gone from the photos as I change things around.





Here's a pic from the outside looking into the commander's cupola hatch after the plug was mounted




~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/23/2012 12:56 AM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		To mount the recoil servo I cut more plastic out of the HL unit & slid the servo mostly inside the unit,
& secured it using a wedge inside the unit as well as a screw. None of it looks pretty, but it works.
By doing this I managed to get a little bit better full swing on the recoil slide, probably gained
about 4 or 5 more millimeters.




~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/23/2012 1:03 AM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		For the gun barrel elevation servo I needed to make a bracket & find a mounting position. I also fashioned a swing arm out of some styrene card.




I then cut a slit in the IR apple mounting bracket so the gun elevation bracket could slide into it, & used the 2 factory plastic
mounting tubes located just to the left of it to secure it to the turret.




~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/23/2012 1:07 AM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		This was the final result. Again, it's not very pretty, I realize that, sorry! .... but so far it works!








And the final result was recorded in a new video I made of the new gun barrel elevation & barrel recoil  ....



This videos shows a mod done to a Heng Long KV-1 tank where both the gun recoil & gun elevation have been changed over to use servos.

Using a Clark TK20E board & it's Real Recoil option allows for a very nice barrel recoil, with a fast recoil after firing, & then a slow return to the firing position, unlike the HL stock recoil which is backwards & has a slow recoil after firing with a very fast return. The barrel recoil mod also allowed more recoil distance than the stock HL recoil allowed.

The servo gun elevation mod also gives better control over the barrel's up & down movement. I get this movement by attaching the servo directly to my tank's 2.4GHz receiver's channel 5 connection, & using the variable dial button on my FlySky CT6B transmitter.

Unfortunately the gun barrel elevation sound is only triggered when one controller stick (in my case, this was channel 3) is pushed half way up, & then the same stick is pushed left & right (which is channel 4). So even though I have full control over the barrel elevation using the variable dial, no sound is generated when I move the barrel unless I also coordinate pushing my one stick half-way up & to the left or right so the TK20E board knows to generate the barrel elevation sound.

So I decided to program the transmitter's mixer modes so that I can flip the one A switch on my transmitter to the On position, & have the board initiate the gun barrel elevation sound to come On, then I can adjust my variable dial to move the barrel while the sound is playing. When I stop using the variable gun elevation dial I simply flip the A switch back Off & the gun elevation sound stops.


Some people might not care, but I like hearing all the sounds, so this way it works out well for me!


~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/26/2012 9:21 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		After finishing up the servo recoil & elevation, I finally trimmed out a piece of 2mm styrene, then glued it to the bottom of the KV-1 hull to cover the cutouts of the old battery box & mounts.






I then ground down the old battery box tray cover & glued that to the bottom to fill in the rather large hole & gap it created when removed.
The rest of the smaller underside holes I'll also fill in with some more styrene so the bottom is rather flat. The small gaps & holes still
remaining can be filled in with some putty later to make it all look like a seamless one piece flat bottom.







~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/29/2012 5:38 AM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		Unfortunately I had an accident & spilled 3/4 of a bottle of my only bottle of Testors Plastic Cement while working on my KV-1 gearbox hull area styrene insert ... first I was like   ... then like ...  

Not too much damage, but my brand new self-healing cutting mat had a large area of it's white lines & other info wiped out because of the spill, & a bit of styrene I had on the mat got a little muffed up too.

So it took a few days for me to get another bottle of Testors to continue, but here are a few more pics of the process.
The gearbox insert piece was 5 layers of styrene sandwiched & glued together with the MEK. I drilled / fashioned the piece to allow the hulls mounting pins / tubes to stick through the styrene.





Then I glued it in place with the MEK & clamped it tight, as well as placed a gearbox mounting plate on it & screwed that in to help hold the styrene down flush & tight.





After that had sufficient time to dry, I removed the clamps. Below you can see how thick I built up the area with styrene






Next I started checking how the components would fit with the way I was thinking.





Speakers in the front, gearboxes installed, & the battery on it's side, where I'll box it out to separate it. I need to build a mount for the Clark board that will sit close to the position it is pictured, but moved more left closer to the speaker box. The receiver will be mounted to the hull wall where I have it positioned, & the big empty white area will be filled with a smoker. I still need to make a couple cross brackets to strengthen the hull from collapsing in ... slowly but surely getting there I think.


~ Craig ~ 

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/29/2012 12:07 PM   
Panther F



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Status: offline 		Some really nice work here!

Have you addressed the bearings in the road wheels yet? This is a must!


Also, gluing and construction must be in 2 separate areas to avoid catastrophes.














~ Jeff

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/29/2012 4:32 PM   
blimp uk


 

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Status: offline 		Hello Craig , looking great mate . I noticed the speakers are taking up a bit more space  - does the gun still clear them O.K.?


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/29/2012 5:39 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Panther F

Some really nice work here!

Have you addressed the bearings in the road wheels yet? This is a must!

Also, gluing and construction must be in 2 separate areas to avoid catastrophes.

~ Jeff


quote:

ORIGINAL: blimp uk

Hello Craig , looking great mate . I noticed the speakers are taking up a bit more space  - does the gun still clear them O.K.?


Well, thanks for the compliments guys, I just hope what I'm doing holds up while running the tank for enough time where I can enjoy it before something breaks & has to be fixed. But that's half the fun anyway.

Ehhh, I'm kind of tight for usable space where I can do tank stuff, so I will just have to learn NOT to spill the glue, at least not when it's just about a full bottle anyway!

I know it was highly suggested to put bearings in the idler wheels, & even use them for the sprockets, but do I have to put bearings in all 12 road wheels? A must .... really?
Unfortunately I learn the hard way Jeff, so I want to see for myself how long before the stock stuff can be used before it actually does break & I'm forced to fix it ... LOL

You are right Blimp, the speaker box with dual SC5.9 speakers does take up a heck of a lot more room than the original HL speaker, but  I triple checked my speaker box as well as I could for fit & clearance just where it was going to be mounted before, during, & after construction . 
The modded stock HL recoil / elevation unit I'm using, even when the main gun is fully raised, doesn't extend into the lower hull area or even below the turret ring gear at all, & the box is low enough that it clears the ring gear with room to spare, so no chance the gun will catch the speaker box.


~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/29/2012 11:40 PM   
modelbob71


 

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Status: offline 		Are those the Waterson gearboxes? Will be curious as to which pinion gear you decide to use.

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/30/2012 1:22 AM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		Yes, it is a set of Waltersons gearboxes.

From the factory they came with the largest pinion installed, 28 teeth. I'll have to get it running & do a distance / time test to see what kind of scale speed it gets, then adjust which pinion these motors need to get a close scale speed. But I won't be running the Waltersons 380 motors too long, just enough to test them out, because I have a brand new set of 480 Promax motors waiting to be mounted, & those would change the speed anyway. I'm hoping with the 480s I'll be able to drop down to the 20 tooth pinion anyway & still have a good scale speed.

~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 12/31/2012 12:54 AM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		I made up a cross member to separate the gearboxes from the rest of the components, as well as provide hull collapse support & a notched holder to secure the battery from moving.






I also made up another bracket which I'll secure to the speaker box with Velcro, & it will be used to support the battery to keep it in place, as well as serve to hold the Clark TK20 board in position.
I'll probably add another support leg or two from either the middle of the overhanging board mount, or from both free ends, down to the hull.






~ Craig ~



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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 1/1/2013 5:05 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		I decided to install a 3rd cross member to hold the battery positioned more securely, as well as add a support ledge for the cross member holding the TK20 board.
Still a nice big open space for any smoker I decide to finally go with after I'm done with everything else.
Next mod I'll post some pictures of will be the moving of the Power Switch & Volume Knob to a more accessible region on the tank.







~ Craig ~


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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 1/1/2013 6:19 PM   
YHR



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Status: offline 		Nice Clean looking internals. I take the extra effort here as well, as i think it just helps make the model

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 1/1/2013 7:11 PM   
Patski


 

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Status: offline 		That KV-1 will be a beast!

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 1/1/2013 8:02 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		Thanks Dan, as I've seen some of the marvelous builds on many forums where members have gutted their tanks & created what looks like component & wiring artwork, & I probably won't ever get myself to be at that level, but if I can just get something with a little more order & looks half-way decent, & at least functions properly, I'll always be content. I'm just glad styrene is so easy to work with ... as long as you don't go & spill the glue like I did earlier!  

Patski .... yeah, I thought the KV-1 was pretty much a beast out of the box, it actually ran quite well with the stock stuff ... for how long it would have though, I wouldn't know. But once I get everything buttoned up, & new 480 Promax motors on those Walterson gear boxes driving around on metal tracks & the speakers turned up full volume ... it should be a beast ... ... or at least, it better be a BEAST!


~ Craig ~




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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 1/1/2013 8:12 PM   
Panther F



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Status: offline 		Yeah, I like the fact it doesn't look like a plate of spaghetti.

Nice work on the wiring hygiene.














~ Jeff

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 1/1/2013 8:32 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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Status: offline 		OK, now another update on my switch & volume modding. Unlike a lot of modelers who go the extra yards & replace the stowage boxes with functional ones with opening lids (I do envy you guys & love seeing RC tanks done up like that), I'm extremely simple when it comes to these types of additions, so I'm OK with keeping the HL plastic originals (almost) just the way they are, & simply modding them to create access.

Last night I just relaxed by working on this part of my build ... selecting which area to place my On/Off Switch & Volume Knobs, as well as my Smoker Switch.
I chose the right side stowage box towards the middle, as this was right next to the battery & it's plug. It's only held on by a single screw from beneath.





The first thing was to make access easier by getting rid of the screw & using a few strong earth magnets. I drilled out the center post a little in the stowage box & inserted a small cylinder magnet, while gluing a longer bar magnet to the front post. On the upper hull I drilled out the stowage box mounting screw hole some & inserted a larger round magnet, while also gluing another bar magnet in an area that will catch the bar magnet glued to the stowage box.




I then drilled a hole in the upper hull side wall where I was going to mount the On/Off Switch. I used my Dremel some to ream the hole larger, but finished it off using an Exacto razor knife to square the hole to fit the switch. Yes I did use the HL factory switch ... it works & I'm cheap, sorry .





I then drilled another hole next to the switch to mount the Volume Knob, & used the same method to finish the tight fit.






I now needed to make some adjustment to the Stowage Box lid so that the On/Off Switch & Volume Knob wouldn't interfere with the box being installed over them or removed.
A couple carefully placed cutouts (OK, not too carefully placed ) & this one Stowage Box concealed On/Off Switch & Volume Knob compartment was finished






I think this will work really well, it's a cheap & effective way to hide the switches but have very easy access to them, & the magnets are extremely strong, so the lid snaps into place when I just get it close to where it should be for closing.

I 'll probably position the Smoker Switch on the other side of the tank in the one stowage box over there, but that hasn't been started yet .... maybe later today!


~ Craig ~


< Message edited by B.A.D.A.S.S.Force -- 1/2/2013 1:38 AM >

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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 1/1/2013 9:03 PM   
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Status: offline 		you could have made them open up i did it to mine but just for added detail no switches are in them



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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 1/1/2013 10:23 PM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



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ORIGINAL: Airbrushler

you could have made them open up i did it to mine but just for added detail no switches are in them


Yes, I knew I could have made the original plastic ones functional too if I had actually desired to do it Airbrushler.  I've seen it done a number of times, so I guess I should have mentioned, besides people going the extra yard replacing them with functional ones, the same holds for me about going through all the extra work in making the original plastic ones realistically functional too. Some people might not think it's a big deal to make the lids open with little hinges & cutting them out so there is an actual lid & it's not just a single piece of plastic, but I just don't need such details on my own tanks, even if it's possible.

I believe the way I did it serves its purpose perfectly, still looks OK,  & was a way easier mod than going through the task of making the actual lids being able to open & close on the original plastic bins. I think it's great that some people do it, but it's not for me when there are easier ways to get what I need done because I'm just not a stickler for details. I can guarantee I would have them broken off at some point if I had working hinged stowage bins, ... then I'd be both sad & angry I damaged such a nice detail on my tank, this way I avoid my own future grief!

~ Craig ~



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RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 1/2/2013 1:00 AM   
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Last Login: 6/20/2013
From: Pearl City, HI, USA
Status: offline 		I think that your method (and reasoning for it) is a great idea, and they look just fine. It's funny - I have thought about either going through the modifications needed to open up such things for access to hidden switches; or about replacing them entirely with working aftermarket ones. But, I never considered just going the route that you did to keeping it stock-looking AND gaining a hidden area for function switches, (difficult for me to think out of the box, sometimes). Anyway, thank you for the tip - I will use it on a couple of builds that I have been struggling with. -Mike

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(in reply to B.A.D.A.S.S.Force)
       Post #: 99

RE: My New Heng Long KV-1 - 1/2/2013 2:29 AM   
B.A.D.A.S.S.Force



Posts: 710
Score: 103
Joined: 4/18/2012
Last Login: 6/20/2013
From: Sellersville, PA, USA
Status: offline 		I'm pretty sure this technique has been used on the stowage boxes by other RC KV-1 modders, but hey, it's good to know there are at least a few of us that like taking the easiest route for a mod like this Mike, LOL

The way the stock HL KV-1 stowage boxes are done makes them perfect & quite easy for this kind of quick mod. Doesn't really take much skill or time in doing it, & tough to actually screw anything up too
I just did the other side Stowage Box Smoker Switch installation tonight in about 15 minutes taking my time. I didn't even use bar magnets on this side & the 2 round magnets seem to hold it down very tight anyway.

The box slips in & snaps into place as soon as the magnets grab. Very easy access with very little effort. Won't ever look as nice as stowage boxes with hinged working lids, but I'm happy.





~ Craig ~


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(in reply to sassgrunt)
       Post #: 100



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