quote:

ORIGINAL: ingleburn

quote:

ORIGINAL: ahamay

quote:

ORIGINAL: ingleburn
@ Jonesy. Interested in how your heli flew with the raised limits. Maybe Rotorboy is onto something.

ok, so I setup the new 450 with as much cyclic pitch as I could which turned out to be around 11.5 degrees before it was binding so  I backed it off to 10 degrees.  No problems with the way it handled, in fact I would say overall it was smoother. I tried...with my limited skill level...to bog the motor with as much collective and cyclic as I could but it was fine.  I'm still running the old firmware on the zyx v1 not that I think this will solve the 3.5 bug and I think I read Simon had already maxed out his cyclic and it made no difference.

As I see no adverse effects of this I'll set my other 450 up the same.  It's interseting that the Blade 450x has a max of 6 deg of cyclic pitch default as per the manual.  I know it's not the same bird, but this does have a beastx and fbl principles still apply.

I"m really happy with the extra headspeed running the 13t pinion and flat 100%, so I'll put a 13t on my other 450 as well.

I'm also very happy so far with the tgy-306g servo on the tail as it's super fast and is holding the tail really well.

Jonesy

Thanks for the info Jonesy, good to hear.
As for the Beastx something that you may not know.
The hobbymate I have which is a clone and setup the same way makes you set up for 6 deg of cyclic and the next step is to set up max pitch till just before it binds.
So Im taking it as the 6 deg is a reference for stick movement and the max pitch is what the gyro can use to correct when its in the air.
If you want to fly it harder you then can then adjust the control behaviour is the setup which I take will give you more pitch via the sticks. Its similar to adjusting agility in the ZYX. 

Just replaced the main shaft in the pro and will set cyclic to 10 deg as well and see how it goes.
BTW my DS415M's that were slop free 7 flights ago now have slop. Maybe that was the cause of the oscillations.

quote:

ORIGINAL: pushinoldrc

Brian,

There are times I can't see it that well.  I guess that being used to flying the planks, I tend to use the whole field.  Maybe, one day, I will put my big girl panties on and fly it closer.

TJ has blade balance issues that we discussed with him yesterday.  I think he will have it sorted today, we will see this afternoon.
B

quote:

ORIGINAL: pushinoldrc

You are definitely a better pilot than me to be able to fly 4 FLIGHTS with no left aileron!  The last time I tried that cost me a very nice biplank just after take-off.
Glad you had fun, and I really hate that you will have to re-rig and setup the heli again.
B

quote:

ORIGINAL: mnemennth

Mmmmhmmm.... Bob... perhaps now would be a good time to reiterate the importance of doing a complete pre-flight EVERY TIME?

Cuz if even an experienced pilot like youzz can have a gremlin that escapes 4 times... the rest of us mere mortals don't stand a chance.    And when you spray him with RAID, make sure you kill 'im DEAD. I don't want the lil' bastahd to decide itz time to move WEST across the Gulf. 

[EDIT]Seriously though... that's why I was all bent out of shape that I couldn't find those mounting plates for my 450GT; they turn replacing those servos into a 15 min job.

mnem
Don't need those skeevy FL gremlins coming over here and breeding with muh pedigreed TX Angus gremlins... totally spoil the taste of the meat.

quote:

ORIGINAL: mnemennth
Oh, no Bob... I wasn't suggesting that you HADN'T done a thorough pre-flight; I was using your case as an example of WHY they're so important. Even WITH pre-flights every time, this intermittent fault escaped repeatedly. Now imagine how much longer or how much more dangerous the situation could have been if you hadn't been doing them religiously.
Hey... I've crashed & rebuilt my HK450 a few *coughBAZILLIONcough* times; and I've come up with a few tricks for keeping things tidy yet still easy to tear down & put back together.
Here's a quick overview; maybe some others here can benefit.
http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/mnemennth/HK450GT%20Build%20No%201000007/?albumview=slideshow
mnem
No, I won't duct tape your hamster into it. Not just yet...

quote:

ORIGINAL: ahamay

quote:

ORIGINAL: mnemennth
Oh, no Bob... I wasn't suggesting that you HADN'T done a thorough pre-flight; I was using your case as an example of WHY they're so important. Even WITH pre-flights every time, this intermittent fault escaped repeatedly. Now imagine how much longer or how much more dangerous the situation could have been if you hadn't been doing them religiously.
Hey... I've crashed & rebuilt my HK450 a few *coughBAZILLIONcough* times; and I've come up with a few tricks for keeping things tidy yet still easy to tear down & put back together.
Here's a quick overview; maybe some others here can benefit.
http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/mnemennth/HK450GT%20Build%20No%201000007/?albumview=slideshow
mnem
No, I won't duct tape your hamster into it. Not just yet...

Best way to replace those front servos in a SE, v2 etc is to split your servo.  Take the case off and feed one half in and then put the case on and the screws back in.  Otherwise you have to do surgery on the frame to get them out.  That way they are installed from the inside so the arms are straight.

Jonesy

quote:

ORIGINAL: mnemennth

Oh, no Bob... I wasn't suggesting that you HADN'T done a thorough pre-flight; I was using your case as an example of WHY they're so important. Even WITH pre-flights every time, this intermittent fault escaped repeatedly. Now imagine how much longer or how much more dangerous the situation could have been if you hadn't been doing them religiously.

Hey... I've crashed & rebuilt my HK450 a few *coughBAZILLIONcough* times; and I've come up with a few tricks for keeping things tidy yet still easy to tear down & put back together.

Here's a quick overview; maybe some others here can benefit.

http://s1183.photobucket.com/albums/x462/mnemennth/HK450GT%20Build%20No%201000007/?albumview=slideshow


mnem
No, I won't duct tape your hamster into it. Not just yet...

quote:

ORIGINAL: mnemennth


Aww, come on Jonesy - they ain't THAT bad.   I just take out the little crossbar over top of the servos & the two top/front bearing block screws. you only need like 1mm to get them in there whole, and even CF will flex that much.

The PITA part is those tiny nuts; the HK450 is a pretty faithful clone, so it doesn't have the blind nuts in the frame. I almost soldered a loop of wire between 'em to make a easy handle this go-round, but I already had my head out to rebuild so I sucked it up & used the needle-nosed pliers.

I've done it both ways; like I sed; I'm not worried about it until I start doing real flying. Besides, I think the CF arms will be a good workaround. Even when you put the HXT900s in from the inside, they're STILL about a mm out of plumb; with the CF/spacer route, I can get it perfect. If I care. Which will depend entirely on how much "special time" I've had with the other machines in my life...

mnem
*Also slightly out of plumb*

quote:

ORIGINAL: rikybob

Good afternoon kidz!

Went out flyin' this AM and filmed same but the "file format is not supported"! Grrrrr!

In short, I took the MQX out to illustrate to Jonesy that, for the most part, he is right. The 1st 100 flights were fun but now, not so much!

I then took the HK450GT T/T "Terror Pigeon for a ride in a measure to test why is the dang thing "ballooning"!

I preflighted it and all good! Flew it in the front yard and after about 45 sec I felt, again a "loss of lift"???!!?? ****. I didn't hear any degradation of speed??

The prior three flights ended with me "setting down" and then the craft slowing tipping over and the blades spooling down biting the grass! Grrrrrr. I got a ding on my tube to show for the last prior to this!

So's I said to myself, "self" ****??? Is my ESC dying??

So's I spooled it up on the ground, wide open, and then waited!

I attempted to lift up and found that the left aileron NOT functioning. B@STARD!

Now I need to do some self aggrandizing!

If it were not for my MAD skillz, I would have crashed that dang thing many times previously!

NO left aileron in the middle of my last four flights!

I'm an awesome pilot, like wayyyy better than Simon OR Bryan!!

Anyhoooooooooo, decision point. I'm fresh out of 922's but happen to have a full set of 410's.

These little heli's are SUCH a PIA to work on though, I bet it will take me HOURS to replace them cyclics! Grrrrrrr!

What to do? What to do??

Anyhooo,

I hope all is well in YOUR worlds!

b

quote:

ORIGINAL: pushinoldrc

quote:

ORIGINAL: mnemennth


Aww, come on Jonesy - they ain't THAT bad.   I just take out the little crossbar over top of the servos & the two top/front bearing block screws. you only need like 1mm to get them in there whole, and even CF will flex that much.

The PITA part is those tiny nuts; the HK450 is a pretty faithful clone, so it doesn't have the blind nuts in the frame. I almost soldered a loop of wire between 'em to make a easy handle this go-round, but I already had my head out to rebuild so I sucked it up & used the needle-nosed pliers.

I've done it both ways; like I sed; I'm not worried about it until I start doing real flying. Besides, I think the CF arms will be a good workaround. Even when you put the HXT900s in from the inside, they're STILL about a mm out of plumb; with the CF/spacer route, I can get it perfect. If I care. Which will depend entirely on how much "special time" I've had with the other machines in my life...

mnem
*Also slightly out of plumb*

I found that if you use servo arm ends as plastic nuts, they are much easier to get into place than metal nuts.

Very nice slide show!  You have a lot of good ideas packed in there too.  I use the Turnigy MG90S servos on my v2, and they must be mounted from the inside as the geometry is way out. (I think it has a taller gear section).
I am really beginning to think that the geometry of the control rods to the swash isn't so critical as long as the angles are similar.  My HDX places the servos in a triangle around the mast, and there is no way I can get them perfect, but it flys well with no adverse cross controls.
I have it set up with the Align 3G system, and it is a joy to fly.
I will get some pics later this evening of it so ya'll can see the neat way it is set up.
B

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quote:

ORIGINAL: rikybob

quote:

ORIGINAL: ahamay
Best way to replace those front servos in a SE, v2 etc is to split your servo.  Take the case off and feed one half in and then put the case on and the screws back in.  Otherwise you have to do surgery on the frame to get them out.  That way they are installed from the inside so the arms are straight.

Jonesy

quote:

ORIGINAL: rikybob


@ Jonesy - I only once used the HXT servos and having to dismantle my heli completely drove me NUTZ! I never used them again. I only use servos that slide into place once you remove the sticker!!

Ahhh... so THAT'S what Jonesy was talking about. But if you put them in through the inside of the frame the way they SHOULD be, you never have to worry about it hanging up on the body of the servo. Only the gearhead passes through the chassis on the Aileron/Pitch servos; though the body of the Elevator servo DOES pass through the chassis. I still don't see what the issue is; I've done 'em both ways dozens of times and never had to fight the servos themselves, only the wires & those nuts on the inside. That's why I was all bent out of shape that I couldn't find my backing plates.

quote:

ORIGINAL: rikybob
@ Menm - I got your drift re: pre flight but the fact does remain, and you were right, we (except Simon) should re affirm the need!!!

Re: your slide show. PURE GENIUS!!! Half of my trepidation is my insatiable need to zip tie all my lines in. I do so with forceps and the concentration of a neurosurgeon!! I am emotionally exhausted after that affair each time! Me being the most proper way of doing it with your measure being the most efficient vs. Rob who actually uses "spooge" to adhere his lines to the heli (ok, in all fairness, he uses hot glue, but it literally looks like "bull spooge" all over his heli"!

All the best!

b

Bob -
Thanks for the compliment; I'm quite pleased with the results m'self. Easy AND tidy is a hard combination to beat. I know (deep in my heart, I KNOW  ) what you're talking about with the zip ties; and the worst part is, no matter how careful you are with those zip ties, sooner or later one of 'em is gonna cut or at least scuff the crap out of the servo wires & make 'em look crunky. The Velcro abuse eliminates THAT too. With my 450Pro build, I started using moulding tape (the really sticky black foam mounting tape they make to hold trim & moulding onto cars) cut into 3mm wide strips to hold down my wires instead of zip ties; the ones you see on my HK450GT are still there only because I've never had that 50A Red Brick ESC out of the heli since I first built it. The moulding tape will work around curves and bends if you keep it nice & narrow, and it completely disappears under the wire if you're careful laying it down.

As for the monkey jizz... yeah, I see a LOT of that holding other people's micro helis together. Not a big fan myself.

[EDIT] In case you're wondering, the antenna mount is made by heating a 1" wide strip of blister-pack plastic with a heatgun, then I wrapped it around the shaft of a screwdriver and pressed flat against the bench with the back of a knife to give it the correct shape. After that, a little trimming with the pruning scissors, and presto! One custom mount!


mnem
There is always time to do it right.
[EDIT] Sonuvacrap - I forgot to add the pic I was talking about. D'OH!

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_____________________________

*DH9118/HK450GTV2/Hausler450V2/EXI450Pro/HDX450/S107G/V911/GeniusCP/TGY-9X/DEVO-7*


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(in reply to rikybob)

quote:

ORIGINAL: mnemennth
With my 450Pro build, I started using moulding tape (the really sticky black foam mounting tape they make to hold trim & moulding onto cars) cut into 3mm wide strips to hold down my wires instead of zip ties; the ones you see on my HK450GT are still there only because I've never had that 50A Red Brick ESC out of the heli since I first built it. The moulding tape will work around curves and bends if you keep it nice & narrow, and it completely disappears under the wire if you're careful laying it down.

quote:

ORIGINAL: ahamay

quote:

ORIGINAL: mnemennth
With my 450Pro build, I started using moulding tape (the really sticky black foam mounting tape they make to hold trim & moulding onto cars) cut into 3mm wide strips to hold down my wires instead of zip ties; the ones you see on my HK450GT are still there only because I've never had that 50A Red Brick ESC out of the heli since I first built it. The moulding tape will work around curves and bends if you keep it nice & narrow, and it completely disappears under the wire if you're careful laying it down.

I have the two PRO's now both torque tube and I can say they are an absolute delight to work on after the GT or SE V2 style frame. I also hate those little alloy washers that you put on all the screws.  The moulding tape looks like it does a good job.