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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/25/2012 1:25 PM   
TomCrump



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I'm glad that your glassing is going well.

I use a slightly different method. I lay out the cloth and smooth it out. I then pour out some resin, and spread it with a playing card. I continue until the piece is done. I then use a playing card to squegee the surface "dry." The process insures good material to surface adhesion. The playing cards are cheap, as my wife picks them up at the Dollar Store.

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/25/2012 2:50 PM   
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Looking Good VJ,

I am going to be building 2 of these planes. One for a buddy in my Club. He is supplying the engines for the planes. I believe he is getting 2 OS .15's I think we will have a blast chasing each other around with these things. I am pretty much the only builder in my Club everyone else has gone to the dark side of ARF's.
Later!!
Anthony

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/25/2012 3:11 PM   
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We have several builders in our local club.  Vinnie built a beautiful Cub last year, Joe is amazing with a scratch built Taube, and a couple of other guys are builders as well. The best flyer around here, Cody, is building a 42% Extra 300, Mark Leseberg Edition for IMAC next year.  I keep trying to get Vinnie to build me a Dalton!  www.daltonaviation.com/42extra300lese.htm

 



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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/25/2012 4:47 PM   
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I have a question that has been on my mind for some time and my STA(1/4 scale) remains only about 90% framed because of it. When a surface is glassed using several pieces of cloth, how are the seams dealt with??? If you overlap, seems there will be a thickness issue at the joint. Sanding that joint would expose the cloth although I imagine another coat of resin would/could resolve that. I doubt a butt joint could be made without leaving gaps were the cloth joins. I suppose a filler could be used but there must be a sucessfull method some can share.

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/25/2012 6:07 PM   
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paddcat1, I am far from an expert when it comes to fiberglassing but before I attempted to glass my fuse I had the same concerns.  However, after seeing how thin the 1/2 oz. cloth is when saturated and cured with the epoxy it is not a concern of mine any longer.  Don't be afraid to overlap your seams as they can be blended together and made invisible with some primer and light sanding.  I don't know what weight cloth you used but I'm sure it can be blended together.  All of my planes have thier center section of wings glassed with much heavier weight glass for strength and you cannot see where the glass ends once blended.  Hope this answer get you back on track to complete your project. 


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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/25/2012 6:08 PM   
WacoNut



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If your glass is fully wetted out during the aplication you should be able to sand the overlapping seam fairly smooth without getting the weave of the glass to start fraying. Then a little spot filler and primer to finish leveling the surface you and you should be good to go.

I don't think you are going to see as big of an issue as you fear.
Anthony

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/25/2012 6:52 PM   
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Thank you gentlemen; had hoped it wasn't the issue I thought it was. Tend to be a bit of a perfectionalist and it can get in the way. Merry Christmas!!!

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/25/2012 9:31 PM   
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Looking good VJ!  As always, top notch work there!

It is nice to see the snow falling isn't it.  It's really nice for me when it's in someone elses yard!    And since I'm in CA, I'm going to do a little more flying today. The weather's not bad at all!   

One more time:  Merry Christmas!

P.S.  Santa must not have known what I really wanted for Christmas.  But I can't complain at all, my real Christmas came early this year!


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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/25/2012 9:41 PM   
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David, the snow didn't amount to enough that I had to shovel so that was good, but it shure was pretty...

Got a chance to apply another section of glass to the fuse.  I decided to not do the top section in one piece but rather in two. I don't think you can see it but in case your wondering how I transitioned the glass to the fin and stab, I ran the glass about 1/2" up each side.  One more small section in the front cowl area and the laying of the glass will be done.  A quick sanding with some 150 grit paper and I will give the entire fuse a second thinned coat of resin.   My confidence has improved to where I am enjoying fiberglassing and will be sure to do it again without any hesitation on other builds.

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/25/2012 9:55 PM   
acerc



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That is just oh so sweet. Love the sheen of glass!


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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/25/2012 11:17 PM   
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Looks really nice,
They are calling for Blizzard conditions tonight about 40 miles west of me. It will be out 1st real snow of the winter. I am only expecting about 6" here at the house. All depends on the track of the storm.

BTW: I finally started working on the 1/3 Waco.
Anthony

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/26/2012 2:32 AM   
Cub Flyer Fresno



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That does look nice.  In fact the glass seems to bring out the wood grain even more.  Hey, maybe you shouldn't even paint it.... Eh, na, go ahead! 

Stay warm you guys!


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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/26/2012 3:45 AM   
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What are the center landing gear support wires supposed to mount to? I don't see anything called out on the plans or mentioned in the manual? I think the Robart wheels I picked up are going to work very well. Blind nuts are installed for the motor mount. I'm going to plug the cowl mounting holes in the fuselage and reposition them for a better fit.

Jaybird

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/26/2012 12:11 PM   
VincentJ


 

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Glad to hear that work on the Waco has begun, remember a completed Waco means more future planes.  Got to keep the Mrs. happy!

Jaybird, to answer your question as to where the center landing gear wires go you need to look at Plate # 3 and you will see that the center wires will attatch to a bracket (you need to make) that will be installed on the center part of the wing pretty much right behind the leading edge. Also visable on side view Plate # 1.  It's easy to have missed as I had missed it first as well. 


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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/26/2012 1:39 PM   
VincentJ


 

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Last bit of glassing done this AM.  In about 5 hours I can sand the fuse and prep it for its second top coat of resin.

Note: The air bubbles visable on the surface will pop and level out on its own leaving a smooth finish. 

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/26/2012 2:28 PM   
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Has anyone flown this model and the STA on Real Flight?  I am just wondering how close the sim is to the real world model.

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/26/2012 8:40 PM   
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Happy Boxing day!   Looking good VJ as always. We had just enough snow on Christmas eve to make it a white Christmas in the morning, but it melted by noon. Now we are having white christmas part 2 maybe another 3-4 before changing to freezing rain. Had a great day with the family and my kids got me a couple of Tower gift cards and my inlaws laid a litte cash on me since they didn't know what to buy me. Now whats on sale  Glad everyone had a safe and warm day with the fam. Now back to building!


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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/26/2012 8:47 PM   
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VJ, are you still adding the brace to your landing gear strut? Have you figured out a way to get the wheel pant components over it? With the flying wire brace and mounting plate attached it's quite a trick to thread the wire up through the pant assembly and then get the wheel on the axle as well. Just curious. I'm wondering if other builders added a brace or just let it flex reaward? It's starting to get hefty now with the engine and gear attached.

Jaybird

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/26/2012 8:56 PM   
VincentJ


 

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Jay check out page 25, post  #616 and you will see the brace that I added.  The spats will slip over the landing gear wire without any problems.  I have not yet added the brackets for the flying wires as of yet, but I am going to extend the bracket out a bit to make it a bit easier to get the wires on and off.   After I finish off with the fuse, my attention will go back to the wing. 


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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/26/2012 9:06 PM   
Jaybird


 

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Well, the way the pants and lower spats have been glued together and how far the wire bracket extends out from the gear on mine, it would be quite a challenge to thread an additional brace up through the pant. I'll keep exploring, though, thanks for the information. The width of the wire mounting brace as is will just fit up into the wheel opening on mine as well.

Enjoy the coming snow storm! It's suppose to hit our area late tonight into Thursday.

Jaybird

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/26/2012 9:58 PM   
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Jaybird, what is preventing you from just opening up/removing the whole inside of the spat/wheel pants area.  I think it would work for you as well.

While I was waiting for the resin to dry I focused my attention to the placement of the on/off charge jack.  I did not want the switch visable from the outside of the plane so  I was originaly going to have a removable cover on the 2nd cockpit hole that would of been held in place with magnets but then I thought why bother, so I just placed it in this already accessible cockpit opening. I made a removable ply deck that is held in place with four 2-56 x 1/2" bolts. 

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/26/2012 10:05 PM   
Jaybird


 

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Fear! Well, actually just concern that since the pant mounts to the gear at the opening then elongating that opening might weaken it. Over time it may cause the plastic to crack if there is too much stress on it.

I was thinking of installing the switch and jack just in front of the instrument panel on the cockpit floor.

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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/27/2012 3:36 AM   
Jaybird


 

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Did some work on the landing gear this evening. Looking at the plans it seems the wheel axle should be about 3/4" or so ahead of the leading edge of the wing. With the gear installed in the wings they seem to be about that far BEHIND the leading edge of the wing. I've tried to give a rough representation with the pictures but it's hard to see the one of the model. The axles are well behind the leading edge. The gear is also fairly flexible and makes for a pretty spongy stance when placed on the floor. Sounds like some form of bracing is required just to get it stable. Again, I'm curious if anyone else had a problem with the kit gear. This gear almost looks like it was hand made or at least modified. The flying wire brackets will need to be bent more to mate up with the anchor points on the wing. It is interesting finishing another person's build. Most of the plane is well built, but there are a few places that are pretty far off.

Jaybird

p.s. Can't post any pictures - internal error of some kind.....

< Message edited by Jaybird -- 12/27/2012 11:49 AM >


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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/27/2012 11:12 AM   
VincentJ


 

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 I awoke this morning ( 3:30AM ) to the sound of snow plow trucks .  It's snowing pretty heavily right now and by the sound of the furnace it must be cold outside as well.  Since I knew I wasn't going to get back to sleep I made myself a nice cup of hot coffee and went down to the workshop to prep the fuse.  With fiberglassing, I have learned that when you're glassing something it has got to look a little bad for it to look good.  I don't know if that makes any sense to you but when you start to glass you'll know what I'm talking about.  Three hours later and I think I'm about ready for the second coat of resin.  I have tried to place the light so you can see the subtle differences between the high/low spots.

Will post photos later as the Internal  Server 500 Message Error is BACK........

< Message edited by VincentJ -- 12/27/2012 2:55 PM >



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RE: Sig Ryan STA - 12/27/2012 11:38 AM   
box car



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Hi VJ, I use to do a lot of glassing but 2 years ago I got some liquid sheeting from WOWPLANES to try and never went back to glassing. A job like you are doing would take about a hour to do. You are doing a great job on your build.
Ken


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