Posts: 325
Joined: 3/5/2003 From: south,
UT, USA Status: offline
bfldrcmedic, Welcome,
I have framed up the kit and am just waiting on servos to sheet the top of the wing. Then I can fiberglass it. The kit is excellent. In fact as far as advice I would say follow the instructions. On mine I changed a few things such as scale hinges, landing lights, retractable gear doors, and a scale tail wheel. I got alot of hipe for this plane when I saw another one done by a member here known as foxx. Search for his threads and you will see an amazing At-6. I have some threads as well of some scale pictures of your interested.
Posts: 5
Joined: 10/14/2002 From: NY Status: offline
I have one, Hollywood zero conversion, with 22:13hr of air time and this is it's story. It was used to do mock dog fight with my son, so light and quickly repairable was the emphasis. It is powered by a O.S. Max 1.2 4c turning a 15x8 with spring air retracts and carries 17oz of fuel, dry it weights 8.5#. It started life with a Super Tigre S-61K ABC and that was enough power for flying a pattern but when shucken and jive'en during mock combat it would loose energy to quickly. Also landings were a real treat! The plane would slow up too fast to get the throttle setting correct and do the AT-6 bounce. I set the plane up so that when the flaps came down the ailerons went up (popularly known as crow mode) and that stopped that. Then we tried a Super Tigre S-90 which provided a lot more power but it would still loose energy before my son's plane (dynaflite P-51D 60 size with Super Tigre S-61K ABC for power Rhom-Air retracts and 6.25# dry) so in went the 1.2 4c.
Things I would change:
Fire wall oil cans and blind nuts pulled through the ¼ in of Lt ply provided with the kit. If I were to do it again the fire wall would be 2X 1/8in marine ply.
Landing gear mounting blocks replaced with hard wood (maple engine mount).
Elevator has considerable down trim in it. I got the kit partially built and I've never checked wing incidence but I'm sure it is wrong because the engine also had to much up thrust in it. Which would then explain the early landing problems it had.
Now that my son is in collage we don't mix it up as much as we used to but this one is definitely a lot of fun and well worth the time to build and do right. Mine was a floater with a .60 and a fighter with the 1.2 4c.
Posts: 251
Joined: 10/21/2002 From: St Augustine, FL, USA Status: offline
Tim, The only "change" I made to mine was putting in dual aileron servos similar to how the flap servos are installed. Seemed much safer that using the ball-link and 1 servo set up. The one servo setup probably works fine, I did the change for my own piece of mind.
I could never figure how to put the gear doors on (that's mentioned in an earlier post) since the gear mount so low in the wing. I'd be interested in a pix of this. That would make a great detail in a very good flying plane.
Posts: 594
Joined: 10/28/2002 From: Somewhere in the west, USA Status: offline
Dave I used brass tubing epoxied at the end of gear doors to act as a hinge and ball joints to connect the door to the strut. It takes some fine tuning but works great. I hope this helps here are some pixs [image][/image][image]
Posts: 325
Joined: 3/5/2003 From: south,
UT, USA Status: offline
Gosh that plane is beautiful, Hi foxx, great pics. How did you get the door to close with that set up? I only ask because I fought with a similar set up for days until I redesigned mine. I ended up making a fiberglass plate (if you will) with a curved notch in it. I pivoted a wire at the gear and when it slides along the groove it pops open the door ect. When I get mine primed I'll have to take some pics. While I've got you Did you use the glue method for all those rivets?
Posts: 251
Joined: 10/21/2002 From: St Augustine, FL, USA Status: offline
WOW! I see it, but like SVX said: "How do the doors seal?" If I recall, my tires hung just below the lower surface of the wing when retracted. That was where my "hurdle" was. I may give 'em another look when my current project is flying.
Posts: 38
Joined: 2/8/2002 From: Brownfield,
TX, USA Status: offline
Thanks for all the opinions guys. I will probably build one. I am trying to decide between a Top Flite AT6 and a Top Flite Cessna 182. I have always wanted to build both of them so I have a tough decision. Looking at Foxx's plane is making me lean towards the AT6.
Thanks, Tim
P.S. Do some more talking me into it.
< Message edited by bfldrcmedic -- 9/11/2003 2:47:08 AM >
Posts: 594
Joined: 10/28/2002 From: Somewhere in the west, USA Status: offline
Thank you guys for your kind comments. Dave it is ok for the tires sticks out about half way when the gear is retracted , that is how it is with the full size TA-6. Need pix ?
Posts: 251
Joined: 10/21/2002 From: St Augustine, FL, USA Status: offline
Oh geez foxx, now I get it! Since the door and the gear have their hinges separated... as the gear folds, the door will end up that much shorter when retracted.
A picture is truly worth a thousand words. Thanks.
Posts: 594
Joined: 10/28/2002 From: Somewhere in the west, USA Status: offline
Thanks Dave I am glad the picture helped. That exactly how it worked on the full size plane and it is not very easy to do but when is done you would love the way it looks . If you have not sheeted the wing top I would suggest to wait until the gear doors issues have been resolved , this would make your life a lot easier. Let me know if I can be of any help.
I am in the final stages of finishing mine. Foxx was very helpful to me as well. Of course, one can really go crazy with mods and customizations on a scale kit, and you'll be the judge of how far you want to go. However, one modification that I consider clearly worthwhile is to add the fairings over the polihedral joints, which are a very prominent feature of the full scale. I also put in landing lights and wingtip lights (simulated), but didn't put gear doors on, because it looked like a bear of a job. You might also consider putting the tailwheel on the scale location rather than keeping it attaced to the rudder, but that's another huge mod.
My prototype is a current airshow performer, John Collver's "Wardog".
Good luck,
Juan M. Villaveces
< Message edited by Cóndor -- 9/16/2003 3:48:08 AM >
Posts: 594
Joined: 10/28/2002 From: Somewhere in the west, USA Status: offline
Sorry SVX I forgot to answer you about the rivets. I use a solder flux dispenser bought from an electronic supply store (RA-Elco in Salt lake city) for about a dollar. You fill it with a mixture %80 white glue (I use Titebond wood glue)and %20 water then put on some relaxing music and start reviting. You need to play with mixture so be able to do 3 to 4 revits per second (practice). Glue should flow on its own and bead at the tip therefore, you should not squeeze the bolltle or let the tip of the dispenser touch the surface. Buy several dispensers and have one filled with water ready so when the flow stops or you decide on taking a break then exchange the tips and squeeze some clean water though the nozzle to keep it clean and free of glue.
< Message edited by foxx -- 9/12/2003 9:21:58 AM >
Posts: 38
Joined: 2/8/2002 From: Brownfield,
TX, USA Status: offline
I'm convinced. Me and the wife are gonna jump on the Goldwing tomorrow and drive to Midland Texas. We are going to go to the Confederate (Commemorative) Air Force Museum and take some pictures to get panel line placement and the like. I have already narrowed it down to 3 schemes. I know I can get panel ine documentation easier, but its a good excuse to go on a road trip. I am uploading the schemes so tell me what ya'll think.
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> Top Flite AT6 
Top Flite AT6 - 
Did you use the glue method for all those rivets? 
RE: Top Flite AT6 - 
Oh geez foxx, now I get it! Since the door and the gear have their hinges separated... as the gear folds, the door will end up that much shorter when retracted. 
Do have the picture of the whole plane ?