quote:

ORIGINAL: CH Ignitions


First to make sure you have spark....take both SPK's out.
Insert them in to the metal caps, those are internaly  connected to the ground.
Connect the battery directly to the ignition module and flip the prop. When your magnet get so the sensor and just passes
you should see sparks on both SPKs.

If you do not see spark ...disconnect the sensor from the ignition module and on the ignition connector with a small thin wire that will fit in to the
female plug prongs...connect one end to the BLACK wire side.
Now the other end very fast and short touch the WHITE wire. Every time you should see spark.
If not ...Module is bad and need another one. If engine is under warranty you should get it free. If not....let me know about and I will make you one.

If module sparks then you will have issue with the sensor. Check connection between ''futaba'' plugs. If that does not work....then your sensor is bad.

If you see sparks then connect your hanes SW and do the same. If you se spark then you know you good on ignition.
Now go ahead and put the plugs in, Use a spinner and turn the engine around. Trough your Tygon tubing you should see
fuel comming to the carb. If not....carb is the issue.
If you see fuel, use the book recomaded  setings and engine it should start.

Hope it helps.
Thanks
Adrian

quote:

ORIGINAL: SrTelemaster150

I was wondering how much your Hurricane weighs. The FG30 seems to have plenty of power to pull it.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Old Fart

Thanks for the answer adrian it was much apprteciated will be trying to start it this weekend and will come back to this email when i do that,again,thankyou it gives a better understanding.Just a quick note the plug caps are silicone moulded inside and there is a three quarter steel cap ring around the outside that touches the heads so i'm thinking that is the ignition earth.I have some trial and error stuff to do now,how simple glow engines feel

Thanks for posting, I did several of those engines but I never seen  any on the air.
On the test stand they all do good. steady idle, brisk acceleration and no missings.
One thing...due to the nature of intake design, I suggest to check the 4 bolts regulary. They have the tendency to come loose.

Thanks
Adrian

quote:

ORIGINAL: kwik

When trying to start an engine the first time, and if you have no idea on whether the Lo and or Hi needle is in the ballpark, it might be an idea
the reset the needles to what the manual says.

Then using an electrical starter, cycle the throttle from lo to hich while running the starter.

Hopefully you will then hit a setting that makes it start. After that it will be easier to lean or increase the lo-setting to
a correct level, and adjust idle on the radio, so that it gets a correct amount of fuel the next time you want to start it.

Of course it is also a good idea to secure the plane with a rope or something, in case it starts on full speed.

But you need a spark first, yes. I usually , using a spare hall sensor plugged into the ignition, and two spark plugs
(if its a twin ) plugged into the caps, use a magnet, just moving it over the hall sensor, checking of there is a spark
on both plugs. You can sit on your living room table checking it like this with a cup of cofee.

quote:

ORIGINAL: Old Fart

He flipped it six times and just as i thought it was going to be de ja vu the bloody thing fired.Nothing i've seen and heard on you tube re the fg57 prepares you for that instant explosion of sound when you are that close to it.Although i was standing behind the prop i still jumped back a bit,my mate was in a slightly worse position but handled it well.Even tho i only ran it for ten minutes as it's a sunday i can still hear that crackly barking sound it made and only ran it at 3000.Felt like it was making enough thrust to easily fly the 9kg airframe slowly with the 22x10 apc and for the first time i thought if you really gas this thing up i might have overdone it powerwise,now that's a strange feeling.

quote:

ORIGINAL: MKnutson

I've got one of these engines, and it runs very good, but, had a radio problem, plane went in with a carbon prop and it bent the crank.
Changed the crank and all the bearings, a bit over $250. While the engine was apart I noticed the #2 bearing was shot engine only had 5 flights!
Got new plane, lubed the bejesus out of the engine while it was waiting for the plane to get done. The new crank and new bearings turned dead smooth after the rebuild.
Flew the plane today for the first time after rebuild,2 flights later the bearings feel VERY BAD!! Won't run it this way! For those who haven't seen the size of the #2 bearing, you would be suprized how small it is. Iv'e seen 120's with bigger thrust load bearings! I see this as a Major design flaw because this engine makes some serious thrust against a bearing that is WAY too small!
Right now I say, look at other engines in this power class, because this is a real expensive paperweight at this time.

Sorry for the rant, because it runs so good I'm just a little ____, at it right now.

Mark