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All Forums >> Glow Engines, Gas Engines, Fuel & Mfg Support Forums >> Tachometer Readings >> Enya 60-4C
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Enya 60-4C - 9/8/2012 12:08 AM   
1QwkSport2.5r



Posts: 3722
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From: Cottage Grove, MN, USA
Status: online 		I got this engine NIB, and I believe it to be one of the earlier 60's as it didn't come with a muffler. It seems that the newer ones came with a muffler but it was optional on the older ones. Either way, I run mine with the open header and no muffler. Tank vented. I did an experiment with glow plugs, trying 3 different plugs. I have one left to test.

71°F / 42% humidity

5/20 fuel, APC props

OS F plug, lowest idle rpm/peak rpm
12x6 - 1800rpm/9930rpm
13x6 - 1600rpm/9720rpm

Fox Miracle plug
12x6 - 2400rpm/9630rpm
13x6 - 1900rpm/9630rpm

Fox Idle Bar plug
12x6 - 1400rpm/10,110rpm
13x6 - 1600rpm/9720


I have a McCoy MC4C plug I will try next time I get a chance. Top rpm was the same between the F plug and the idlebar, but the idle quality, speed, and transition was better with the idlebar plug. The idle was set burbly rich since thats what it likes, and the transition was smokey but acceptable. It needs more run time I think, but overall it runs pretty well.

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RE: Enya 60-4C - 9/19/2012 4:43 PM   
1QwkSport2.5r



Posts: 3722
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From: Cottage Grove, MN, USA
Status: online 		61°F air temp, 5% nitro 20% castor fuel, 11x9 APC prop, Idle speed set at about 2900rpm.

Fox idlebar plug - 9930rpm peak
OS F plug - 9900rpm peak
McCoy MC4C plug - 9830rpm peak. Transition was the best with this plug; burbly rich but faster and smoother.



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RE: Enya 60-4C - 9/19/2012 5:03 PM   
airraptor


 

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From: fairfield, CA, USA
Status: offline 		only 210 rpm from a 12x6 to a 13x6 indicates its a torquer. try a 14x6 on her.

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RE: Enya 60-4C - 9/19/2012 5:15 PM   
1QwkSport2.5r



Posts: 3722
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From: Cottage Grove, MN, USA
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quote:

ORIGINAL: airraptor

only 210 rpm from a 12x6 to a 13x6 indicates its a torquer. try a 14x6 on her.

Dont have the clearance to run a 14" prop, have to shim the engine up to make a 13" clear. Looking for more speed than a 6" pitch prop can provide. I want to get a 11x11 or 11x12 to test on this engine. This engine seems to like running in the 9000-9500rpm range, but has no problems revving up higher. It is said (according to an article I read) that this engine makes its peak HP at 11,800rpm.

I'm not fond of the OS plug, it does not have as good idle quality compared to the idlebar or mc4c plug.

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RE: Enya 60-4C - 11/11/2012 1:41 AM   
1QwkSport2.5r



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From: Cottage Grove, MN, USA
Status: online 		I ran this engine a little more today since I had an hour to kill. APC 12x6 = 10,100rpm peak. MAS K-series 12x6 = 9,800rpm. 5% nitro 20% castor, Enya #3 plug, 60°F air temp and humid.

This engine is coming into itself now. Either that or I'm getting the "knack" for getting it adjusted right. It has to have a rich low end, so transition right off idle is a little burbly and it stumbles a little, but otherwise it revs up nicely. I've been setting it 300rpm rich from peak on a full 8oz tank, and I get at least 15 - 20 minutes run time with maybe 1/8th tank left.

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RE: Enya 60-4C - 11/13/2012 1:26 PM   
Hobbsy



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From: Colonial Beach, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Good numbers Quick, that is a fine engine as are all Enyas, I think I could safely predict that with a muffler and a pressure tap you could eliminate that need for the rich low end.. That was the case with my old .46MKII

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RE: Enya 60-4C - 11/13/2012 2:35 PM   
Hobbsy



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From: Colonial Beach, VA, USA
Status: offline 		I bought this engine in 1989 and it was my first RC engine. I was dumber'n a mine mule concerning RC engines but read on the old RCOnline that the Enya fourstrokes could benefit from a pressure tap. Having an understanding about pressure waves and pipe tuning on dirt bikes I put the pressure tap dead center in the muffler. A couple of years later I got an Enya .53TN and it had the pressure tap on the muffler cap on the engine end of the muffler. Go figure.

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RE: Enya 60-4C - 11/13/2012 11:15 PM   
1QwkSport2.5r



Posts: 3722
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From: Cottage Grove, MN, USA
Status: online 		I actually tried a muffler from a Saito that my buddy gave me and it still needed a fat low end to transition right. It would cut out if you opened the throttle even moderately quick. The instructions from Enya say something like "Usually, 60-4C prefers rather rich mixture at idling". They aren't kidding. If I get the urge, I'll track down a muffler. The 60 loses about 400rpm with a muffler though.

I do find it amusing when I rev the 60 up, I can see the oil spewing out of the exhaust. The other day when I ran this engine, the weather was somewhat chilly and the oil coming from the breather got rather thick and wouldn't come out of the tubing, so I had to blow the oil out of the line and then it was breathing okay after that. I guess thats what I get for running the full-castor package and not putting a Bowman ring in it.


It is a reliable engine, no doubt, so long as the idle is rich enough. It will tell you its not rich enough if after running up to WOT and back to idle it quits. I had this happen once while setting it up the other day and all it took was 1/16th turn of the airbleed richer and it was fine then.

I will have more Enya engines for sure. This one and my SS30 are two of my favorites. The SS30 is the #1 fave right now, its a real sweetheart. The most reliable engine I own, bar-none.

< Message edited by 1QwkSport2.5r -- 11/14/2012 12:23 AM >

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RE: Enya 60-4C - 11/14/2012 1:39 AM   
Hobbsy



Posts: 14557
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Joined: 12/2/2001
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From: Colonial Beach, VA, USA
Status: offline 		Make sure you get all the old oil, (and water) out of the cam box when running on a cold day, Enya fourstrokes rust like crazy in the cam box. I remove the carb mount screw from the cam box and inject NAPA Fogging Oil when its going to sit a while.

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RE: Enya 60-4C - 11/14/2012 2:11 AM   
1QwkSport2.5r



Posts: 3722
Score: 155
Joined: 10/15/2006
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From: Cottage Grove, MN, USA
Status: online
quote:

ORIGINAL: Hobbsy

Make sure you get all the old oil, (and water) out of the cam box when running on a cold day, Enya fourstrokes rust like crazy in the cam box. I remove the carb mount screw from the cam box and inject NAPA Fogging Oil when its going to sit a while.

I try not to let it sit too long without running it; I try to run it at least every other week. I'll pull the cover off and inspect it, and oil it up good.

Edit: I would have to remove the cam box to lube it; the carb retaining screw doesn't go into the cam box like the .46's do and the others like it. I pulled the cam box cover plate and got a handful of clean castor oil all over my hands. I squirted some of my homebrew ARO into the breather, inside the rocker cover and into the cylinder and spun it over good. I ran the engine dry when I was done with it last.

< Message edited by 1QwkSport2.5r -- 11/14/2012 2:46 AM >

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*Real* glow fuel is made with Methanol, Nitromethane, and Castor oil.

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