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RE: Atlanta - 10/1/2012 5:16 PM   
Atlanta 60



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quote:

ORIGINAL: KaP2011

Wow! That is a beautiful plane.


Boy is it ever!! WOW!!



P.S. Thanks Dave & Dave!!




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RE: Atlanta - 10/1/2012 8:28 PM   
jetmech43


 

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Status: online 		ok mine has flaps did the Atlanta have flaps?

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RE: Atlanta - 10/1/2012 11:12 PM   
80sPattern


 

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Status: offline 		The kit showed flaps.  As I understand it, most Japanese designs from this time period had flaps.  All of the Atlantas that were competing when I built mine (+/- 1986) did not have flaps.

Personal choice I guess.

Doug


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RE: Atlanta - 10/1/2012 11:13 PM   
jetmech43


 

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Status: online 		ok thanks this one has it

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RE: Atlanta - 10/1/2012 11:16 PM   
80sPattern


 

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Status: offline 		Plan courtesy of Paul Pappas.

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RE: Atlanta - 10/2/2012 3:39 AM   
lfinney


 

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Status: offline 		http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=873340 offset hatori header for sale in engine listings

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RE: Atlanta - 10/7/2012 3:08 AM   
hrrcflyer


 

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Status: offline 		OMG Doug,

That is EXACTLY what I'm talking about ! ! ! ! ! ! Now everyone, please excuse me while I shut down my computer so I can clean up my mess from drooling all over my keyboard.......LOL

David

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RE: Atlanta - 10/8/2012 4:43 PM   
frequent flyer



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Status: offline 		 This is a new one. No paint and it still looks nice.  

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RE: Atlanta - 10/8/2012 7:16 PM   
stuntflyr



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Status: offline 		I have one of those just like that!
Hey Don, are you going to make us some Atlanta headers for OS's and YS's?
Chris...


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RE: Atlanta - 10/8/2012 7:37 PM   
dhal22


 

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Status: offline 		I have one like that as well. It is indeed beautiful, even without paint. Don does a superb job on these fuses, light and strong. You can't go wrong ordering from Don.

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RE: Atlanta - 10/8/2012 8:31 PM   
stuntflyr



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Status: offline 		No kidding, David.
I am looking forward to my new Arrow kit from Don. He's already shipped 5 kits I think he told me, and they now have bulkheads installed. (He says the European, Med and Middle Eastern guys love 'em. Wolfgang Matt must be popular, I love it too.)
His kits have really come along quickly and get better and better. And so many different designs available. He's made 20 molds, or more, of full fuselage kits in what, 3 years? And those are just the Classics, he does Giant Scale stuff too. How does he do it? He's a machine!
Chris...


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RE: Atlanta - 10/14/2012 4:19 AM   
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Status: offline 		Well Thanks for the kind comments you guys. It's a labor of love for the Classics that I always wished I could have years ago.
I


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RE: Atlanta - 10/17/2012 12:15 AM   
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Status: online 		ok started the YS 60 today im going by the manual as shown to hook up check valve shows arrow forward and goes to press line and aft fitting on the motor and fuel feed to front fitting is this correct, on way it runs is with it hooked totally opposite the way it should onluy then it idles good but transition to full throttle it sputters and quits

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RE: Atlanta - 10/17/2012 12:37 AM   
PatternPilot



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Status: offline 		check and make sure check valve is free and clean.

What % nitro and oil %




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RE: Atlanta - 10/17/2012 1:55 AM   
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Status: online 		its 15% coolpower

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RE: Atlanta - 10/17/2012 4:50 AM   
TFF


 

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Status: online 		The check valve is one way pointing into the tank vent. It should not let anything out of the vent. You also have to run the engine for a minute to let the tank pressurize; it will not take throttle until then.

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RE: Atlanta - 10/17/2012 6:24 AM   
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Status: offline 		You are correct that the fuel line should be on the forward fitting and the vent line with the check valve should be on the rear fitting. It will run the other way around at idle but will always quit when you advance the throttle.  Spin the engine with the starter for 10-15 seconds with a full tank. Then disconnect the fuel line. You should get a stream of fuel, not just a dribble. If not, you have a bad check valve, a backwards check valve or a leak in the fuel system. There could also be bad plumbing.
John


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RE: Atlanta - 10/17/2012 1:36 PM   
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Status: online 		Im thinking it s the tank im useing, believe its sucking air, im sure the check valve is good, going to try another tank

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RE: Atlanta - 10/17/2012 1:40 PM   
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Status: online 		going to bring the wing by some time this week Tom

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RE: Atlanta - 10/19/2012 1:03 AM   
jetmech43


 

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Status: online 		ok check valve is fine press is good from tank, but doesnt seem to be going int to engine, should you be able to blow through the forward or aft nipple fitting and hear air going through?

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RE: Atlanta - 10/19/2012 5:46 AM   
Roguedog



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Status: offline 		jetmech43,

I was having the same problem with my YS45. Would run like crap as I tried to go to full throrttle or would just quit. I replaced all the gaskets, o-rings, and silcone parts but  haven't had a chance to run it yet, hopefully It will solve the problem. What lead me to do this was mainly the fact that I could only get 2lbs of tank pressure.

According to the RCM Ys 60 article the engine won't run right unless the tank pressure is between 6 to 8lbs. So this led me to the regulator plunger on the bottom of the engine. On my YS 45 the regulator plunger was in two pieces.

The plastic or silcone piece that is on the metal pin just fell off. I'm not sure if this was the cause so I decided to replace all the soft parts to make sure. Main reason for replacing all the soft parts is if the crankcase has a leak you will never get enough pressure to pressurize the tank to the optimal value. This is why I basically rebuilt the engine with all new soft parts.

I did a test with my Robart retract pump (with presure gauge) after I started having problems by placing a tee in the pressure line between the check valve and tank and connecting the pump line to the tee. I used an electric starter to  turn the engine over for about 20 seconds and couldn't get more than 2lbs of pressure which i didn't think was right.  I next use the retract pump to pump up the tank to 10lbs and didn't lose a 1/2 pound after letting it sit for 30 minutes. So at the the pressurized tank and check valve part of the system was in good order.

Below is a diagram from the manual that I put together to show the pumped air direction and the fuel direction. I don't quite get what part your trying to blow air though so I though this diagram may help.

I hope to put mine on the test stand this weekend to see if the problem is fixed.

Bryan



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RE: Atlanta - 10/19/2012 11:27 AM   
jetmech43


 

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Status: online 		Im trying to blow through where the fuel lines go and thanks I will check the plunger

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RE: Atlanta - 10/19/2012 11:32 AM   
jetmech43


 

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Status: online 		I believe tank pressure is good it will shoot fuel across my garage when I remove the fuel line

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RE: Atlanta - 10/19/2012 8:06 PM   
pitstop000



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Here is a closer look at the 3 chamber YS pressurized Fuel Delivery System via diagram and the actual internal parts.

 

Bryan has it right, you need to see 6 to 9 psi pressure for the engine to run correctly, it always comes back to the regulator when these motors are having this issue. You should notice that the fuel tank expands.

 

These regulator screws were usually factory set and only are intended for very small adjustments to the low speed mixture, start out setting your regulator screw protruding from the body to 0.009 to 0.010 of an inch.

 

To increase the regulated pressure you need to reduce spring compression by going counter clockwise with the brass adjustment screw, in other words rich, it’s opposite what you would normally think.

 

Even though you’re getting fuel shooting out, pressure still can be low. For example running a regular engine with only pipe pressure and a one way check valve will give you fuel shooting out when you disconnect the fuel line.

 

Have you tried leaving the igniter on the glow plug during you throttle up test runs?

 

By the way what plug are you using?



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RE: Atlanta - 10/19/2012 8:31 PM   
jetmech43


 

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Status: online 		OS 5 plug and yes I leave it on for throttle up, im going to pull the regulator apart and see if its serviceable

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