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Top Flite AT-6 Build - 10/9/2012 6:08 PM   
Scratchie



Posts: 409
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Last Login: 4/24/2013
From: Mendota heights, MN, USA
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I haven’t seen a lot on the TF AT-6 build thread, so I thought I’d post some pics of my build before moving on to my next project. The kit was fairly easy and straight forward, very good manual. Could a first-time builder make it? Maybe, but they’d have to read a lot and have someone’s ear to call with questions.
I’d prefer the fuse to be plank and frame, it would yield a better contour and reduce the amount of final shaping.  The wide sheets used on the fuse sides didn’t always curve around the bulkheads as well as I’d like, but filler and sanding got the final contours right.

I realize I don't have a lot of building pics but will post what I have.  The main things from the build I want to pont out are:

The kit was not complicated or difficult
For the first time I used water-based poly for fiberglassing which worked great - I had two coats of sanding sealer under it to prevent warps
I put on panel lines, very easy to do and probably added to most bang for the buck
I used top flite spray paint - added a lot of problems
It was built exactly to the plans, now I'd have one servo for each aerleron
 


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< Message edited by Scratchie -- 10/9/2012 7:20 PM >


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RE: Top Flite AT-6 Build - 10/9/2012 6:26 PM   
Scratchie



Posts: 409
Score: 105
Joined: 4/28/2009
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From: Mendota heights, MN, USA
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The stab and rudder went quick and easy. Once glued to the fuse they required filler to get the transitions from the fuse to the stag/rudder correct. Without using filler the contours would be way off.
I like to fiberglass, sand and then put on primer to find low spots – then re-fill and sand. When it looks like it is in the pics I know that I’m on the right track.


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RE: Top Flite AT-6 Build - 10/9/2012 6:36 PM   
Scratchie



Posts: 409
Score: 105
Joined: 4/28/2009
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From: Mendota heights, MN, USA
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The jigs on the wing ribs made getting everything straight very easy – probably the best feature of the kit. The hardest thing in making the wing was finding a long, level surface when epoxying the sections together. 
I did strengthen the retract area beyond what was called for (sorry, no pics), and I should have put more time into sheeting the interior of the wheel well/retract area.
Flaps were not difficult, but took a little time to get a good fit. It turns out that when installing them permanently they’re connected to each other by a little wire. This little wire prevented them from lying flat, and it took quite a few trial and error attempts to get the wire configured to let the flaps rest flat. Now that they’re done, they’re worth the effort.


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RE: Top Flite AT-6 Build - 10/9/2012 6:57 PM   
Scratchie



Posts: 409
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Joined: 4/28/2009
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After the fuse and wing were built, I spent a lot of time in getting them smooth as I planned on painting them silver and figured every defect would show. I read how some guys use 1000 grit sandpaper and thought they were a little extreme, but now I’m not so sure. I went down to 600 grit, and will most likely use 1000 grit on my next build.
Panel lines were put on by drawing the lines out using a pencil, and then putting 1/32 tape over the lines. A built-up layer of primer went over the paint, some sanding, and then removed the tape. It was very fast and very easy to do. Comparing to my Bearcat without panel lines, the AT-6 looks like it’s in a different class. I haven’t inhaled enough CA glue to do rivets yet.

To make the seams on the wings I sanded down a ¼ x ¼ balsa strip to the right contour, glue an end down, attach a weight to bend the balsa and placed wet paper towels over the leading edge where there is that sharp bend. The balsa strip would crack (which was ok), I’d glue it down and fill as needed. Once dry I increased the weight (cracked the strip intentionally as needed) until the strip curved around the leading edge.


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RE: Top Flite AT-6 Build - 10/9/2012 7:10 PM   
Scratchie



Posts: 409
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Joined: 4/28/2009
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From: Mendota heights, MN, USA
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With the plane primed and panel lines done, final finishing begun. This was the most tedious for the following reasons:
I read that painting adds a lot of weight. Well, I build light so that shouldn’t be a problem – Wrong! The top flite Lustercoat has very strong solvents and the aluminum color doesn’t cover easily. Lustercoat Aluminum paint dissolved the primer (also Lustercoat) and reacted with sanding sealer that was underneath. It took many light coats and what I thought was a lot of paint to finally get the finished coat done. 
I will not be using Lustercoat or similar again and will buy an airbrush system – I think that using Lustercoat cost about four un-needed ounces.
The paint scheme is loosely based on the 6147th Tactical Control Group from the Korean War.  The fin is Ultracote.

I'll look for more pics, post/email any questions.


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RE: Top Flite AT-6 Build - 10/9/2012 7:19 PM   
Scratchie



Posts: 409
Score: 105
Joined: 4/28/2009
Last Login: 4/24/2013
From: Mendota heights, MN, USA
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btw, I have four kits to choose from for my next build, a Joy Products Jenny, PICA 1/5 Spitfire, Royal B-17 and a Jack Stafford B-24. I’ll probably build the Stafford B-24 as Chu-a-Lug (pic attached) or Suzy Q, two of the Ploesti raiders.  any suggestions?


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RE: Top Flite AT-6 Build - 10/9/2012 7:45 PM   
redbiscuits



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Very Nice!

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Gary-Waco Brother#171 If the build gets tough, always refrain from throwing things! ARCA, Austin Tx. www.austinrc.org

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