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RE: KV 1 build - 10/21/2012 3:15 PM   
YHR



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Status: online 		I am very interested in the gearboxes.

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/21/2012 4:06 PM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		Today I addressed the hull flex and idler mounts. I don't have a mill here, but I do have a so-so drill press and a good small lathe.

First thing I did was put a thick and threaded brass shaft between the mounts at the front and rear hull lower panels. I had to drill out the mounting screw hole in each side of both panels to take the 3 mm attaching screw, machine threaded.

That helped a lot, and really reinforced the rather 'dangling in the wind' idler mount section of the hull. Next I simply installed the hull mount cross member at the rear of the hull. Bingo, flex is flat gone.

Last thing I did was putz with the idler arm mounts. Sorry, I don't think a plastic grommet and cap will do the job. I took a pair of steel retaining rings, bored them out to 5.8 mm ID to clear the octagon part of the idler arm mount, installed a steel washer and socket head screw, and it's way more solid than the stock gig. If needs be and I have a problem there, as I will be running metal tracks with steel wheels, I'll just have the machinist fabricate a reinforcing plate to go over the entire area. However, so far it looks and feels good.

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/21/2012 4:09 PM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		Email me about the gear boxes, Dan. They are rather sweet to say the least.

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/21/2012 4:19 PM   
EugeniRUS


 

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From: Pushkino, RUSSIA
Status: online 		My PE set from Aber has got some flaws. Some parts are shorter than they should be and some parts are bigger. When they are bigger you can make them smaller, but if they are shorter, it is a more complicated task to make them longer.
Maybe they reworked it, will see.

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/21/2012 4:22 PM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		Do you remember which sets had the problems? My PE, 5 sets, will be here in two weeks, maybe a little more.

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/21/2012 5:19 PM   
EugeniRUS


 

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Status: online 		This one
http://aber.net.pl/detal/desc/russian_heavy_tank_kv_1_or_kv_2_144161414/

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/21/2012 5:43 PM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		The link took me to Aber's sight. I have listed 4 PE sets:
AB16043
AB16044
AB06045
AB16046

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/22/2012 5:52 AM   
EugeniRUS


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: sevoblast

The link took me to Aber's sight. I have listed 4 PE sets:
AB16043
AB16044
AB06045
AB16046


Oops! 16 043

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/22/2012 7:41 AM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		OK, Evgenyi, that set is on the way to me along with the other 3 sets. When I get to the PE part of the build I'll see what is not correct with the set, we can talk to make sure both sets were wrong, then I'll contact Aber about it.

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/29/2012 8:16 AM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		Yesterday was a muggy and rainy day, so it was also Tank Day. I found a source of self etching primer, supposedly, that is real close to the Tammy dark yellow, so on it went. Then I'm sitting there and decided I did not like the idler adjustment set up. I have just received two HennTec idler units here in the Darkest East, Tiger 1 and T 34. After playing around a bit with the T 34 unit, I figured I could make it work. Make it work?? It's a virtual drop in.

The clearance is close between the idler mount of the HennTec system and the mounting boss for the hull rear plate, said plate being reinforced in an earlier part of this thread. I had to grind off about 1 mm deep and 1 mm wide so all parts would fit well. Today I have to cut another piece of tube, as the KV is about 10 mm wider than a T 34 inside the hull. Asides from that, it's a drop in deal, and since the HennTec unit is all steel for the working and support parts, it should be well strong enough to handle the metal tracks this little monster will have.

I also fabricated two brass plates to reinforce even further the lower hull rear panels. At the moment the plates are held in by two small socket head screws. When I do the longer idler tube I'll drill the hull and plate for minimum two bolts for each plate. With all the reinforcements I've put in this end of the hull, it's pretty solid now.

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/29/2012 1:47 PM   
Buckeye36



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Status: online 		The beast is looking great Bob.

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/29/2012 3:56 PM   
sturmgescheutz


 

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Status: offline 		Hello Robert,

if you had told me that you are looking for a system for the Tamiya KV, I would be able to build something suitable.

But you've done very well.



Best regards,Guido



      Owner-HennTEC
 


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RE: KV 1 build - 10/29/2012 5:06 PM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		Hello Guido

We can discuss the possibility of you making a kit for the Tamiya KV idler system. I was lucky with your T 34 system because I could make it fit and work in the KV. However, I will email you shortly about a KV system.

Best regards
Bob

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/29/2012 5:35 PM   
yellowshaker



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From: bayonne, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		Yet another masterpiece on the bench! Looking good.

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RE: KV 1 build - 10/31/2012 3:39 AM   
fsciorelli



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Status: offline 		Bob,

What's the self etching primer brand your referred to?

Best Regards
Frank


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RE: KV 1 build - 10/31/2012 6:50 AM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		It's a local brew, Frank. VCO is still asleep, so I can't get the name translated at the moment. You should be able to get much better at NAPA or any shop that sells auto body repair supplies.

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RE: KV 1 build - 11/3/2012 5:31 PM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		So it's raining cats and mutts today, ergo it's TANK DAY! I decided to try something I've wanted to do forever, and now I can since I got the little mini lathe. Bearings in the TU gears.

So I started with the KV TU's. Simply took them apart and started measuring the height of the installed bushings one at a time. It's a relatively simple process in reality. The bronze bushings are generally not set the same in each gear, IOW for some gears the bushing is also a spacer to the next gear or the 'E' clip on the gear shaft. Some are flush set, some are only set in the gear a millimeter, ergo careful measuring and boring is of paramount importance. I also peened the shafts that go all the way through the TU frame so they would not rotate as is usual for most of 'em.

Photos will show you the results of the physical work, but let me tell you, when I finished the first TU and gave it a spin by hand, even my old and gnarled hands could tell the vast difference between the version with bearings and the one with bushings. I'm talking greased lightening as apposed to porridge. Don't get me wrong, the Tammy TU's are danged good OTB. However, I have taken my fetish for bearings to a new level. That and by installing the bearings, the slop in the gears if virtually gone. Still have the proper back lash, but asides from that they're pretty tight. Bearings used were no flange sealed 7 x 4 x 2.5, outer diameter being the same as the outer diameter of the big end of the stock Tammy bushings.

When I get this beast finished I'll put a set of stock TU's in him and do speed and hit speed tests, then switch them out for the ones with bearings and repeat the test. Just from the feel of the TU's the difference is pretty significant.



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RE: KV 1 build - 11/3/2012 6:47 PM   
bowlman


 

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Status: offline 		Good to see you doing a build again Bob the last one was the secret project never did see the end of that one was it the Tiger 1 a fictional build .

Jimmy

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RE: KV 1 build - 11/3/2012 6:50 PM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		Jimmy, you will eventually see the end of The Last One build. Grin.

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RE: KV 1 build - 12/5/2012 6:58 PM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		Well, lads, it's been a day or three since I last posted this build. Weather has now officially gone south, IOW winter is here with a bang. 10 days ago we was in shorts and T shirts. Now it's colder than a mother-in-law's kiss, but not quite freezing. This is Krim, after all.

So, been chewing here and there while waiting for some small bolts etc, which finally arrived Monday.

Did the Schumo KV10010 add on armor kit. The kit is resin parts, very well detailed and just about ready to install. You simply cut them off the sprue, rough up the back side and the corresponding area of the tank for the ACC adhesive to grab to better, and stick the parts on for the side armor, carefully aligning them so the fender supports are centered in the cut outs of the side plates. I use 100 grit to rough up both the sticky side of the resin and the mating part of the hull. First I position the part, outline it gently with a very sharp pencil, trial fit, then if all is good, have at the ACC gel type glue.

The two parts that mount on the hull roof in front of the turret race are just a tad more tricky. You want to draw a faint pencil line centered on the hull top back to the turret ring. The two pieces center on that line, and the ends literally just butt up to the already applied side armor pieces. And speaking of the armor side pieces, with them the tank will have only at most two tool boxes, so you have to fill a couple holes in the side fenders where tool boxes would be mounted where the new added armor is. No big deal, took but a few mikes.

The front upper hull piece takes a little work. The new resin parts themselves are simply cut off the sprue and rough up the gluing spots. However, you must cut off the splash shield for the hull MG, and remove the cast on radio antenna hull mount next to the splash shield. Also, the headlight and horn mounts on the right hull front must be removed also. Then it's a simple task to apply the resin parts. Schumo has thoughtfully provided a dimple to drill for the rain drain hole in the antenna mount. Clever lads they!



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RE: KV 1 build - 12/5/2012 7:08 PM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		OK, so the added armor is on and secured. Next, I return to the hull bracing. With the added plates I installed earlier in this build, the front lower hull is pretty stiff. Still, since I live in an AO where the mud can and will be legendary, I decided to go the extra mile. Got out the brass stock and the super hot razzle dazzle soldering gun, and added a heavy cross piece to the side plates. Simple, fast, and now he's like a rock.

I also installed the DP31 transmission brace plate. This nifty little item by our resident genius, Daryl Turner, simply fits under the TU's. You remove the stock stand offs, and using the supplied bolts that come with the kit, simply screw the TU's to the plate. Instant rock solid transmssions.

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RE: KV 1 build - 12/5/2012 7:13 PM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		Next, I just started fooling with the wiring and internal layout. I replaced the motors of course, with ETO black long cans, M02 on sight, and used copper wire for the leads. I hate aluminium wiring in either my tanks or my house, so it's copper all the way in both, and Deans Plugs for the contacts.

I also mounted the speaker a little different, to wit, backwards, and removed his top plate, cut a deep grove in his sides, and installed the motor and speaker wires in this groove. More to follow on the electronics installation shortly. And, by the by, with a test fit everything fits like a glove.

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RE: KV 1 build - 12/5/2012 7:56 PM   
Buckeye36



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Status: online 		Looking good Bob, this is going to be a true beast.

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RE: KV 1 build - 1/7/2013 8:07 PM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		Today being colder than a mother-in-law's kiss, it's tank day again. Been a while since I worked on the KV.

This afternoon I textured the turret and hull sides after rummaging through my photo archives. The little round circles on the turret rear are actually welds, and need to be knocked down a bit. I got them down some, and will chew them more tomorrow, then pattern them as welds. For the texturing I simply dipped an old toothbrush in liquid cement, covered the panel I was working on with same, and then after a minute or so allowing the cement to soften the plastic I just pounded away, literally, with the tooth brush and got a reasonably good rough texture. Depending on when the tank was made and by which factory, some of the steel armor was REALLY rough. The texture is hard to see in the photos, but it's there. The side vision slits and the roof ventilator will be opened up also.



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RE: KV 1 build - 1/7/2013 8:31 PM   
sevoblast


 

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Status: online 		Next I worked on the welds. On sight visuals show that the welds, to be kind, were crude at their best. In reality it's a wonder the tanks didn't fall apart at the first glancing blow from a slingshot stone. Anyhow, I deliberately made the welds sloppy, as per the originals I have photos of. Not too many welds yet on this little stinker, but the fender braces, all 10 of them along the hull sides, will get the welds when they are installed for keeps along with some other odds and ends.

I have not installed the turret front yet as I'm waiting for some parts to complete him. He did get textured though and his circles will get chewed down and textured also.

Also started on some of the nickel silver and resin parts from Schumo. Got all 5 periscopes off their sprues and sanded down flat on the bases. Then I cut from the sprues and assembled the tow cable turnbuckles. Lemme tell you, the state of the art for nickel silver castings has come a long way. These things are castings, gentlemen. And threaded on the casting sprue. And they work! One end is cut off, clean up the threaded end, and it screws right in to the body of the turnbuckle. I'm impressed.

Also cut off the sprues and started the clean up of the exhaust pipes, made of nickel silver. These are pretty neat, very crisp castings with zero flash. The only cleanup they need is where you cut off the casting sprue. And they are hollow and have a tube on the through deck end that accepts the HL smoke system if you are doing an HL. For a Tamiya you have to ease out the rectangular mounting hole to clear the tube. However, all in all these are really nice castings.

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