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General RC Car questions... - 11/10/2012 12:31 AM   
Microz



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Status: offline 		 Hey guys. So since I have started up in RC Cars again, I have two general RC Car questions:

1. If you use lipos, what do you have your LVC set to? Right now, mine is set to 3.2v/cell. Is this good enough, or should it be higher?

2. What is the difference between the different compounds of tires, and what is best for each type of terrain (hard packed dirt, loose dirt, clay, pavement, etc.)?






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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/10/2012 12:51 AM   
SyCo_VeNoM



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Status: offline 		I like 3.4v per cell personally as it gives leeway so one cell could go out of whack by a bit, and it still won't go under 3V

wish I could help you on tire selection

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/10/2012 1:36 AM   
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Status: offline 		Same here for the LVC, 3.4V


As for tires, there is no standard universal measuring system, they all vary a bit from mfr to mfr. The best way to know is to go on the companys website and look for the info there, and if can't find it, email them for it! 

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/10/2012 1:44 AM   
Microz



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Status: offline 		Oh okay cool thanks guys! I think I'm going to set my LVC to 3.4v as well.

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/10/2012 5:14 PM   
Microz



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Status: offline 		One question. When my LVC is set to 3.4v/cell, the resting voltage of the pack is 7.87v...about 3.9v/cell. Is it okay to take the LVC down to 3.2v/cell?

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/10/2012 6:22 PM   
FahrtAutoRC



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Status: offline 		You can but if your cells are not perfectly matched you risk the lower of the two dropping too much and taking damage. I believe this was already covered in Syco's post. 3.4 is the common ultimate "safe" level

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/10/2012 6:29 PM   
Microz



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Status: offline 		What if I balance charge everytime I charge them? Would this help to prevent this, or does this have more of something to do with running the car?

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/10/2012 7:41 PM   
SyCo_VeNoM



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Status: offline 		it has more to do with the cells themselves
sometimes one discharges a tad faster than the other due to them not being perfect. Generally its maybe .1 volts like on one of my batteries(most are only like .05 volts off of each other), then I got another that was once .3volts outta whack If I would have ran that to a 3.2v LVC te one cell would have been under 3volts, and potentially damaged(or the charger would have given me beef about charging it).

Trust me the difference from 3.4 to 3.2 isn't much run time wise, maybe like a minute or 2 tops, and the RC's generally starting to feel sluggish already compared to a full charge. IMO not worth the risk of damaging a lipo for the 1-2 minutes more.

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/10/2012 8:31 PM   
Microz



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Status: offline 		Okay cool thanks. Yeah if its only going to give me that much more runtime, it isn't worth it.

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/11/2012 5:08 AM   
BKoz559



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Status: offline 		Like Fahrt was saying, there's no set standard for tire compounds.  But, you can generalize by stating that softer compounds usually have more grip but wear faster.  Conversely, firmer compounds may have less grip but will wear longer.  That is a very basic rule of thumb and there are more factors involved that must be considered.  In off-road racing, for example, you may wish to use a firmer "soft" compound in the summer and a softer "super-soft" compound in the winter; otherwise a "super-soft" tire in the summer heat will be extremely soft and you can actually loose traction.  Also, when a tire is softer, sidewall flex is a bigger issue which makes handling inconsistent.  The difference in feel between a soft and super-soft tire, or in Proline terms M3 and M4 compound, is slight.  Both feel soft to the touch.  Additionally, the firmness of the foam inserts and whether they are closed or open cell foams will affect the performance of the tire also.  Ask the fastest guy at your local track what he uses and use his input as a starting point.  Unfortunately finding the best tire is somewhat of a trial and error affair but, you can also generalize the type of tire needed by keeping in mind that the softer the dirt, the bigger the treads or pins have to be while the firmer the dirt, the smaller the treads should be.


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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/11/2012 2:22 PM   
Microz



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quote:

ORIGINAL: BKoz559

Like Fahrt was saying, there's no set standard for tire compounds.  But, you can generalize by stating that softer compounds usually have more grip but wear faster.  Conversely, firmer compounds may have less grip but will wear longer.  That is a very basic rule of thumb and there are more factors involved that must be considered.  In off-road racing, for example, you may wish to use a firmer "soft" compound in the summer and a softer "super-soft" compound in the winter; otherwise a "super-soft" tire in the summer heat will be extremely soft and you can actually loose traction.  Also, when a tire is softer, sidewall flex is a bigger issue which makes handling inconsistent.  The difference in feel between a soft and super-soft tire, or in Proline terms M3 and M4 compound, is slight.  Both feel soft to the touch.  Additionally, the firmness of the foam inserts and whether they are closed or open cell foams will affect the performance of the tire also.  Ask the fastest guy at your local track what he uses and use his input as a starting point.  Unfortunately finding the best tire is somewhat of a trial and error affair but, you can also generalize the type of tire needed by keeping in mind that the softer the dirt, the bigger the treads or pins have to be while the firmer the dirt, the smaller the treads should be.


Ah okay cool thanks. So during the indoor season, the track is a carpet track. Does this mean I would use very small treads and a super-soft compound?



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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/11/2012 5:52 PM   
Microz



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Status: offline 		I've got one more question here as well. So I'm looking into racing, and would like to race in the stock class. Now, a 17.5T motor is required and they are all sensored motors. Can I use a sensored brushless motor on my sensorless 35A hobbywing brushless ESC?

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/11/2012 10:06 PM   
BKoz559



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Status: offline 		 That ESC should be fine, the question is whether the motor MUST be sensored. A sensored motor will still operate with a sensorless ESC.

As for the tires, short pins or bar tires should work best, even a street tire like Proline's Street Fighters work too. Pins are needed to dig into the surface of the track so the carcass can contact the ground. Thats why I said the harder the dirt or the less dust there is then the smaller the pins should be.  Carpet doesn't have a top layer of dirt and depending on the texture of the track, foam or street tires may work better. You should see what other guys are using to get a starting point.


< Message edited by BKoz559 -- 11/12/2012 3:59 AM >

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/11/2012 10:12 PM   
Microz



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Status: offline 		Okay cool thanks for your input.

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/11/2012 11:27 PM   
Microz



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Status: offline 		Another answer I can't seem to find when searching is why do 2wd buggies have rib tires up front? Do they have some sort of traction advantage?

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/11/2012 11:30 PM   
phmaximus



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Status: offline 		Sure do, those types of tyres provide great side traction and no forward traction


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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/12/2012 12:04 AM   
Microz



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Status: offline 		Oh cool thanks.

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/12/2012 4:12 AM   
BKoz559



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Status: offline 		I personally switched away from ribs on my B4 and went to Proline Holeshots for 2WD front wheels.  On our track the dirt is so hard and the front seems to skid across the track.  I believe the ribs work better for a surface that has a loose top layer or "loam" to it.  That way the ribs can actually sink in and have something to push against in a turn.


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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/14/2012 2:58 AM   
Microz



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quote:

ORIGINAL: BKoz559

I personally switched away from ribs on my B4 and went to Proline Holeshots for 2WD front wheels.  On our track the dirt is so hard and the front seems to skid across the track.  I believe the ribs work better for a surface that has a loose top layer or "loam" to it.  That way the ribs can actually sink in and have something to push against in a turn.


Ah okay I see how that works then. Thanks. One more question which I think is a general RC question. If I don't plan on racing every single weekend (maybe only 1 or 2 per month), should I even consider buying a race oriented truck, or just one that I can use for racing and general track running/bashing? I'm thinking of just getting one for racing, general track running, and bashing.



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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/14/2012 3:51 AM   
SyCo_VeNoM



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Status: offline 		I'd go for a more race orientated truck, as in the 2wd there isn't a huge price difference in the "basher" specific trucks, and the race orientated ones. Also some of the race trucks I find are a bit more durable then the basher trucks.
Now in 4wd there can be gigantic price differences from entry level racer gear to high end, but the gains are minimal(if any) specially since you are just starting as 90% of racing is being able to control your RC

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RE: General RC Car questions... - 11/14/2012 8:11 PM   
Microz



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Status: offline 		Cool thanks for your reply. Yeah looking at prices there isn't a big difference in the 2wd cars.

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