RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build    Gallery
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
    Search This Thread  
 
Printable Version

All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
Page: <<   < prev  1 [2] 3 4 5 6 7   next >   >>  

Tower Hobbies Get Coupon Codes Brands  
Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/9/2012 1:24 PM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline 		i see the pics. from what i can tell .. a wing blew off because the metal spar inside the wing failed at the ply spar area , not the wing spar in the fuse. these pics i am posting , show the sane setup the hellcat has . it looks to me and from what you said this was the failure point . the aluminum spar broke free from it's wood counterpart

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to samparfitt)
       Post #: 26

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/9/2012 3:09 PM   
BobH


 

Posts: 6764
Score: 116
Joined: 4/1/2003
Last Login: 5/24/2013
From: Springfield, VA,
Status: offline 		Since you have reinforced that area you should be ok. The issue is from a mechanical standpoint that all the flex in the wing is ultimately concentrated on that single point. That's the weak link in the chain, so to speak. Reinforcing that area will do no harm thats for sure. Might even save a plane

_____________________________

BobH.

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 27

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/9/2012 10:27 PM   
MarvinLoomis


 

Posts: 120
Score: 100
Joined: 1/19/2008
Last Login: 5/24/2013
From: Mankato, KS, USA
Status: offline 		Looking great there Warbird_1! I like yer exhaust!

Hide Signatures

(in reply to BobH)
       Post #: 28

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/10/2012 12:35 AM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline 		i've always been concerned when it comes to cutting into a spar like that. and yes , that is where it all goes wrong if built wrong.

_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to BobH)
       Post #: 29

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/10/2012 7:51 PM   
JeffH


 

Posts: 1881
Score: 114
Joined: 1/17/2002
Last Login: 5/23/2013
From: Carrollton, VA, USA
Status: offline 		There is a local flyer around here that had the wood spar fail after 10-12 years are HARD flying and halrder landings from time to time. The spar broke right at the strut cutout.

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 30

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/10/2012 11:48 PM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: JeffH

There is a local flyer around here that had the wood spar fail after 10-12 years are HARD flying and halrder landings from time to time. The spar broke right at the strut cutout.

That bird served him well. i just retired a midwest at-6 that i flew the the crap out of. i must of had 400 flights in the 9 years i flew her. people knew the plane so well that when they showed up at the local flying events , they knew i was there when they saw it. here's a HD video of one of the flights . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H1KIbzL88ho
She also suffered a mid-air with a great planes ryan STA ARF. both planes came very close to crashing but both landed .. how ?? don't know. everytime i slow her down it went into a bad stall.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to JeffH)
       Post #: 31

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/13/2012 12:16 AM   
Check6


 

Posts: 1152
Score: 105
Joined: 8/3/2002
Last Login: 5/23/2013
From: N. Scituate, RI, USA
Status: offline 		Hey Ron,
What kind of resin are you using for the cloth to the wood on the polyester fuse? Brand name and does it all smell real bad?
Thanks,
Fred

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 32

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/13/2012 12:21 AM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: Check6

Hey Ron,
What kind of resin are you using for the cloth to the wood on the polyester fuse? Brand name and does it all smell real bad?
Thanks,
Fred

fred . i always use the bondo resin from walmart . epoxy or ca doesn't work on polyester resin parts. it does smell bad but has always worked good for me. WB_1

_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to Check6)
       Post #: 33

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 2:00 AM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline 		After a major setback i'm back on track to start fitting the wings. Byron gives you four rails " 3/8" x 3/4" maple rails. you are to build the gear into the plane as you go. there are slots cut into the rails for screw head clearance . In order to make the gear removable you have to do some engineering on the new rails as the gear has to one ,slide backwards and then the rear of the gear frame has to come out first then the front. sounds easy but it's not . in the process of trying to get it right , i made at least 4 sets of rails " 4 per set" trying to get it right. finally after making the rails "which i thought was right" i epoxied them it. well the other day while mocking up the wings i noticed that one of the rails was cracked. it cracked because i was using socket head wood screws and the area was really to thin where i had cut the rails for the gear to fit in. so i had to remove them and in the process i discovered the 1/6 ply spar doubler's i made and epoxied in didn't bond well with the main wing spar. so out they came. because of the previous concerns about spar failure i opted to go with a 1/8 ply spar doubler as well as a doubler for the wing spar clamps. so i cut the new rails using 1/2 x 3/4 maple rails with a 1/8 ply cap on the bottom . i used the thicker stock because i wanted extra meat as i had to slot them for gear removal. the 1/8 ply cap is to keep the blind nuts from spiting the maple rails . i opted for blind nuts instead of wood screws to cut down the chance of spiting as well. The robart 150 gear does not offer a very wide mounting flange on those gear so everything was a challenge. As far as why the 1/16 ply didn't take well is beyond me and bob smith glues. they really didn't have a reason why the glue under performed . i was using the 15 min stuff. so i went and bought some new stuff . seems fine now. last night i finished glassing the wing spar in as well as all the new parts . lol i have a saying that i do it nice because i do it twice .

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 34

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 2:41 AM   
BobH


 

Posts: 6764
Score: 116
Joined: 4/1/2003
Last Login: 5/24/2013
From: Springfield, VA,
Status: offline 		Glad you got everyting finally sorted out. My experience with CA and hardwood is marginal at best. I prefer epoxy for ply and hardwood..

_____________________________

BobH.

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 35

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 12:28 PM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: BobH

Glad you got everyting finally sorted out. My experience with CA and hardwood is marginal at best. I prefer epoxy for ply and hardwood..

bob , i used epoxy on the spar doubler the first time as well as the second time. i wonder if i should have sanded the parts the first time as the birch ply sometimes has a slight shine to it. i did sand them the second time.
i could have sworn i hear something about airborne release agents used in fiberglass molding getting on wood that's nearby but that was a long time ago . i might be thinking of something else. the first doubler didn't come off super easy but i was still able to remove it in one piece. that should have never happened.

_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to BobH)
       Post #: 36

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 3:27 PM   
BobH


 

Posts: 6764
Score: 116
Joined: 4/1/2003
Last Login: 5/24/2013
From: Springfield, VA,
Status: offline 		Polyester releases a waxish substance when curing maybe that's what your thinking of. But thats when glassing wings etc.

Hysol would definately work. Perhaps the birch didn't get penetrated sufficiently by the epoxy. Sand with 150 grit or less to give some tooth to the wood in high stress areas.

_____________________________

BobH.

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 37

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 3:42 PM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: BobH

Polyester releases a waxish substance when curing maybe that's what your thinking of. But thats when glassing wings etc.

Hysol would definately work. Perhaps the birch didn't get penetrated sufficiently by the epoxy. Sand with 150 grit or less to give some tooth to the wood in high stress areas.

I've used a lot of hysol but that has it's own limitations. i don't use polyester resin while glassing wings or are you talking about epoxy that gives off the waxy substance? i can see that happening. it seems like a "say" wing after glassing has a wax type of coating on it. or it feels like it. i did sand the spar doubler area good before epoxying it again .

_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to BobH)
       Post #: 38

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 4:53 PM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline 		started fitting the wings today and something looks off to me. when i use the iron bay instructions ,they say to make a template that raises the wingtip up to 4 1/4 " off the bench . when i do this they just look better if i go higher and they butt up to the fuse much better. i'm wondering if ,when iron bay redid the manual , if they made a mistake. i have some feelers out there hoping someone has an original manual from byron to confirm the measurement . their template doesn't even come close to working right.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 39

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 5:23 PM   
All Day Dan


 

Posts: 2894
Score: 151
Joined: 12/15/2002
Last Login: 5/24/2013
From: MANHATTAN BEACH, CA, USA
Status: online 		warbird, The full scale dihedral is eight degrees 30 minutes. Maybe this will help. Dan.

_____________________________

Dan

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 40

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 5:38 PM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: All Day Dan

warbird, The full scale dihedral is eight degrees 30 minutes. Maybe this will help. Dan.

dan , what does the 30 min. mean?


_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to All Day Dan)
       Post #: 41

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 7:33 PM   
drifter



Posts: 494
Score: 115
Joined: 9/26/2002
Last Login: 5/24/2013
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: warbird_1

quote:

ORIGINAL: All Day Dan

warbird, The full scale dihedral is eight degrees 30 minutes. Maybe this will help. Dan.

dan , what does the 30 min. mean?



Found this on the web regarding degrees and minutes. Hope it helps.
Degrees may be further divided into minutes and seconds, but that division is not as universal as it used to be. Parts of a degree are now frequently referred to decimally. For instance seven and a half degrees is now usually written 7.5°.

Each degree is divided into 60 equal parts called minutes. So seven and a half degrees can be called 7 degrees and 30 minutes, written 7° 30'.
 
So 8.5 degrees is indicated by Dan's info.



_____________________________

Why do they call it "dead weight" if it keeps your airplane alive?

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 42

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 8:06 PM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline 		thanks drifter. i get it now..

_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to drifter)
       Post #: 43

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 8:13 PM   
All Day Dan


 

Posts: 2894
Score: 151
Joined: 12/15/2002
Last Login: 5/24/2013
From: MANHATTAN BEACH, CA, USA
Status: online 		Thanks Drifter. Warbird, Just because the scale value is about eight degrees, you don’t have to go with it. Any angle would be OK as long as it looks right. It won’t affect the flying characteristics that much. I’ll post and image of what 8 ½ degrees looks like.

If that butt joint is not perfect, here’s how you can make up the difference. Scuff up the fiberglass side with 100 grit paper. Protect the wing panel side with wax paper that is held on with double sided tape. Mix up a batch of Z-poxy Finishing Resin and Sig Micro-balloons to a thick consistency. Apply the mixture to the scuffed up fiberglass side. Push the wing panel in place. When cured, about three hours, pull the parts apart and sand the excess mixture to the contour of the wing. You should wind up with a nice joint. Dan.


Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

Dan

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 44

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 8:36 PM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: All Day Dan

Thanks Drifter. Warbird, Just because the scale value is about eight degrees, you don’t have to go with it. Any angle would be OK as long as it looks right. It won’t affect the flying characteristics that much. I’ll post and image of what 8 ½ degrees looks like.

If that butt joint is not perfect, here’s how you can make up the difference. Scuff up the fiberglass side with 100 grit paper. Protect the wing panel side with wax paper that is held on with double sided tape. Mix up a batch of Z-poxy Finishing Resin and Sig Micro-balloons to a thick consistency. Apply the mixture to the scuffed up fiberglass side. Push the wing panel in place. When cured, about three hours, pull the parts apart and sand the excess mixture to the contour of the wing. You should wind up with a nice joint. Dan.


dan , as i figure the byron's are running about 10 degrees. everything fits great. the problem i believe is in the making of the fuse. what i'm trying to get rid of is a slight bump which is where the wing joins the fuse. if you put a straight edge on the fuse it will not translate to the wing . the wing seems a little low so the straight line will not follow the center section all the way to the tip. the two pics show what i'm talking about. as far as the gap goes i can sand that out before i glue the spar in . i just did want to alter the cores .

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to All Day Dan)
       Post #: 45

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 8:44 PM   
CK1



Posts: 722
Score: 150
Joined: 4/14/2002
Last Login: 5/24/2013
From: hillsborough, NC, USA
Status: online 		It looks like the 4.5 " should be measured 24" out from the root and not at the tip . I ran into the same concern on my Byrom T6 and found out I was measuring at the wrong location .


_____________________________

"Aint this great !!" - Chris
"Nosen Cessna 310 Club" #8

Hide Signatures

(in reply to All Day Dan)
       Post #: 46

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 8:45 PM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline 		other contradiction is byron wants you to make a 24" template for the wing dihedral " as shown in the pic above" if you put that where they say , you'd have a drooping wing panel. so you have to move it in and that makes the tip go from 4 1/4" up to 4 1/2" . i built one of these before many years ago so i'm sure how i did the last one. but chances are i followed the instruction to the letter . i'm a very careful builder to a fault . i sometimes read more into something that i should lol

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 47

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 8:49 PM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: CK1

It looks like the 4.5 '' should be measured 24'' out from the root and not at the tip . I ran into the same concern on my Byrom T6 and found out I was measuring at the wrong location .

CK , according to the instructions... the tempate goes under the fuse and you add a 3/32 balsa cap onto it to compensate for the sheeting . yet if you move the otter edge of the template even with the core tip , you end up with a gap. the cores are 23 1/2 long but they say to make a 24" template and put it under the fuse gull. strange ...

BTW i just finished and flew my byron at-6 late last summer. had some issues with that . i got them worked out and it flew awesome.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to CK1)
       Post #: 48

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/14/2012 9:00 PM   
warbird_1



Posts: 1567
Score: 159
Joined: 2/6/2002
Last Login: 5/22/2013
From: perry, NY, USA
Status: offline
quote:

ORIGINAL: warbird_1


quote:

ORIGINAL: CK1

It looks like the 4.5 '' should be measured 24'' out from the root and not at the tip . I ran into the same concern on my Byrom T6 and found out I was measuring at the wrong location .

CK , according to the instructions... the tempate goes under the fuse and you add a 3/32 balsa cap onto it to compensate for the sheeting . yet if you move the otter edge of the template even with the core tip , you end up with a gap. the cores are 23 1/2 long but they say to make a 24'' template and put it under the fuse gull. strange ...

oh wait.. i think i know what your saying now. good point!


_____________________________

Scratch Builders make their own destiny

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 49

RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build - 12/15/2012 1:37 AM   
MarvinLoomis


 

Posts: 120
Score: 100
Joined: 1/19/2008
Last Login: 5/24/2013
From: Mankato, KS, USA
Status: offline 		Warbird_1, I just looked at my original Byron Corsair instruction manual and it reads the same as what you have posted here. 4 1/2".

Hide Signatures

(in reply to warbird_1)
       Post #: 50

Page:   <<   < prev  1 [2] 3 4 5 6 7   next >   >>  
All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Warbirds and Warplanes >> RE: Byron/Iron Bay F4U Corsair build
Page: <<   < prev  1 [2] 3 4 5 6 7   next >   >>  




Jump to:


 
Google 



Search | Marketplace | Event Calendar | Local Clubs | Magazine | Product Ratings | New Products | Discussion Forums

Photo Gallery | Instructor Search | Field|Track|Marina Search

Advertisers | Hobby Vendor Resources | Rate Manufacturers | Sign In/Sign Up

SITE MAP!   : :   FORUM RULES

RC Universe is a service of Internet Brands, Inc. Copyright © 2001-2013.

Charities we support that also need your help
Yorkie Rescue | Humane Society | ASPCA | Crohn's-Colitis America


1.641RCU1