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Advice - 12/10/2012 11:38 AM   
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Hello All

Now as you can see, im new here! and im sorry to be asking questions on my first post, im sure you get lots of it and im sure you get sick of it!

Basically, im looking to build myself a boat, one thats a bit different to most of yours on here i assume! I want this boat for fishing, and although i dont need anything different for compared to another boat, theres a few things i want and i dont know where to start looking!

Now, the main things it needs are:

Long Range, ideally i need it to go upto around 600m, the further the better though really! but i could settle at 500/600m.

Its going to be used on big resevoirs so it needs to be alble to cope with wind and big waves! so i want a hull thats going to be up to this, preferably a strong one to as if it does ever fail in use it would be nice for it not to sink when it smashes agains the wall of the dam! Im sure theres a certain shape around that cuts through waves?

Ive heard that using a battery drill motor can be good due to the high torque, speed isnt a massive issue, it doesnt need to be fast, itd be nice to be a reasonable speed though otherwise id be there for ages taking it out! I was hoping the run it on a 12v golf cart battery if this isnt too heavy as it should last longer than a 6volt.

There the main things i need to look at now, a remote/reciever with good range, and a good hull.

I havent really set a budget, im aiming to build it before next winter so im just going to gradually add stuff to it, i will try keep the costs as low as possible but it costs whatever it needs to!

Thanks in advance for any advice, Sorry for such a long post, especially for my first post! but as you may of guessed i dont know anything about remote control equipment!

Cheers

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RE: Advice - 12/10/2012 12:04 PM   
w3bby


 

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Is it a bait boat you are after? Try here...

Ready to go: Here

_____________________________

Ian

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RE: Advice - 12/10/2012 6:51 PM   
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 Cheers bud! That boat does look impressive! I fancy building one though... And I know I said I have no budget, but it's over my budget! Haha cheers ill look on that othe site 

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RE: Advice - 12/11/2012 10:35 AM   
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From: BlackpoolLancs, UNITED KINGDOM
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Provided the boat is big enough to be seen at 600m and built correspondingly strongly enough, it will carry enough battery to give the travel range.  It should also be big enough to carry the aerial high enough to ensure line of sight, so control won't be a problem.  Legal hobby grade radio will do the job, properly set up.
As regards the battery, just remember that Achimedes knew a thing or two, and the hull must be capable of comfortably floating with your payload - battery, drive gear, controls and bait.


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RE: Advice - 12/12/2012 9:34 AM   
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Ive got myself a boat hull, one that i found at the bottom of the water im going to use it on! Its an old bait boat thats obviously been sunk before, i found it a while ago and my friend nicked some parts off it and now ive nicked it back! This should get me going, im going to give it a proper check over tonight or one night soon. My main issue is i really dont know where to start looking with the radio control unit! ive been looking at them but is there anyway i can tell if they will cover my range? would it be possible for someone to send me a link to what i should be looking at? it doesnt need to have many channels because it wont really be used along side any other boats. Although there is a chance there could be my friends boat working alongside mine at some point. Thanks

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RE: Advice - 12/12/2012 11:29 AM   
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Any radio that you buy in the UK will be set to work at its maximum legally permitted power limit in its band.  In the UK you have the choice of 27MHz, 40MHz or 2.4GHz for surface use.  I would look at the 2.4GHz sets as being cheap, cheerful and effective and not having any of the hassles of crystals. The 27 and 40 MHz sets have the advantage for you of needing a mast to hold the aerial upright to help ensure the range - you can fix things to a mast to help keep sight of the boat at the ranges you mention.  I have controlled a yacht with 6 foot tall sails at 400 yards - it was easily visible, but it was difficult to see exactly where it was pointing, in particular, was it coming towards me a few degrees, or going away a few degrees?
Range is partly a function of transmitted power, and partly down to the quality of the receiver, the important bits there being its sensitivity to see a signal and its selectivity to enable it to ignore unwanted signals.


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RE: Advice - 12/12/2012 11:55 AM   
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Thanks thats really helpful! With the boat im using at minute we have fastened lights onto it and we look at it through binoculars at the range we are talking about (theres normally two of us so it isnt hard) I am going to go and look at this boat (its my friends) just so i can see the stuff he's using, but the boat is now 10 years old if not more so i doubt the stuff will still be available!

I dont know whether this makes a difference but from the controller i am wanting to obviously power the motor, in forward and reverse, along with this i will want to steer it (using a rudder) and have the bait dropping pin. So i'll want to run two servos and the motor forwards/backwards from one remote. Are most remotes capable of this?

Something else is on this one of my friends, you control the speed with a small lever just to the right of the main joystick/lever on the left, this holds in position so it stays at the speed set, can you do this with most remotes that have this extra lever?

Sorry that this is so confusing but i really dont have a clue! i will try and get to a model shop and ask but its finding one that deals with boats near me that i may struggle with, and i dont want to go in not knowing anything because they could easily rip me off!



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RE: Advice - 12/13/2012 12:11 PM   
mfr02


 

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There are plenty of budget 2.4GHz outfits, most start at 4 channels, all analogue on the two sticks, both sticks having two axes.  The further up market, the more goodies.  The throttle stick on mine is unsprung and stays where it is left.  The other three stick functions do spring center.
The small slider often found alongside the stick is more properly a trim device used for fine setting of the center off.  Whether you can use this as a ships telegraph largely depends on the one hand on the design, on the other dumb luck.  Sometimes the travel of the tab is enough to allow some control, in other cases it stays with the deadband.
As well as moving the center, it also moves the end points, which can be useful if you want to operate, say, a micro switch by a servo just beyond the normal end of the servo travel.  On a 2 channel set that is a handy way to steal extra functions by hanging switches on the rudder servo.
You could do worse that look on here  http://www.giantshark.co.uk/parts-systems-c-40.html  Lots of kit, they have a forum on there as well, so plenty of opportunity to learn new words and what they mean.

Just an afterthought from the OP - the battery voltage is relatively immaterial provided the motor is intended for that voltage.  Run time is largely determined by the capacity of the battery, and this will decide the size and weight of the battery.  
Running a 6v motor on 12v will give riotous performance but the battery will drain faster and the motor will likely burn out faster.  A battery of a given size and weight will store just so many watts, no matter what voltage, If the motor is designed for 12 watts power output, if designed for 6 volts it will pull 2 amps, if for 12 volts it will pull 1 amp.  A 6v 2AH battery will weigh the same (and might even be the same size as) a 12v 1 AH battery, and used with the appropriate motors, will give near identical run times.


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RE: Advice - 12/13/2012 2:25 PM   
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Thanks for all your help! Youve really helped.

That website is really good to, much better than the ones id been looking at!

Another question, do all servos connect to all remotes? and how do they connect? The boat im looking working on has two futaba 3003 servos fitted and it would be handy to just replace these ones with something the same so i dont have to re-shape and re-allign everything!



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RE: Advice - 12/14/2012 12:16 PM   
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Nowadays, all the manufacturers have settled on having the same arrangement of pins in the same order, and need the same signals, so they are interchangeable.  Some still like to have their own key on the plug moulding, be we are modellers and own knives and files.
"Standard" size servos like the 3003 are pretty much drop-in interchangeable BUT different manufacturers like to have their own design splines, so they should only be used with the horns that are usually supplied with the servo.  There might also be differences in the throw response between makes, either as angle of throw, or due to differences in the hole spacing on the horn arm.


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RE: Advice - 12/23/2012 8:58 PM   
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 Right thanks a lot! I've got the bits and I'm going to take a look at building it up tomorrow! Thanks a lot 

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