quote:

ORIGINAL: BKoz559

Those are cool trucks and depending on the condition and whether it comes with the 2.4ghz or older AM radio will determine it's overall value.


I took a quick look on Ebay and noticed that in the past 3 weeks, rollers (trucks without electronics) sell for $200-$260 plus shipping.  I've seen something similar to what you're describing list for $340 plus shipping and no one bought it.  I saw another one with a Hobbywing ESC sell for $325 (shipping included).

So, I think his truck is worth $250 IF, it's not beat up.  If he didn't bother to clean it up, if the suspension feels gritty or sticks when you compress it, if there's lots of scrapes on the bottom then I'd say that constitutes excessive wear.  Some wear is expected but if it looks like he took a cheese grater to it then I'd start to reconsider the whole thing.

Even if he doesn't have batteries to sell ask if he can put his own batteries in it and drive it to show that the electronics work.  Let him do a demo-drive for you.  From there you can expect to spend about $60-$80 for a pair of some budget 2S LiPo packs and about another $30-$60 for a LiPo charger.  See this link and this one too

5000 / 25C packs are the minimum recommended packs.  Those will supply 125A according to what they're rated.  If you don't mind spending a little more then you can increase the mAh rating, C rating or both depending on your budget.  It's safer to use batteries with higher amp ratings than what the ESC is rated.  Since that ESC is rated 120A, the 2 - 5000 / 25C packs will barely meet the minimum amperage and you should be safe.

When the owner said it can take 6S then you are correct for assuming 2 - 3S packs.  The Revo has 2 battery trays and 9 times out of 10 the ESC's power leads are wired in series.  Therefore, 2 - 3S packs work as 1 - 6S pack.  Just be sure to use identical batteries.  Otherwise 2 - 2S packs will still be very powerful and the truck will be plenty fast.  My Savage can do standing backflips with 4S.  I could only imagine the parts I'd break with 6S.

quote:

ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

Id skip on the shredder.
Im a redcat fan, but the shredder has issues and redcat knows it....thats why they are no longer selling them.

Basically, the shedder is a stretched 1/8 scale 8E model. Adding the larger tires and more weight to a 1/8 chassis just doesnt work.

The main issues are the diffs. While some people got diffs that lasted a good long time, others got ones that failled very quickly. Some dont come shimmed well from the factory.

Im getting a earthquake 8e soon (should have it in a week), and Ive owned one before. Having owned one, I cant imagine that a stretched version of this truck will be as durable as I would like.

There is a reason the 1/6 shredder is under $300....and the 1/5 rampage electric is over $500. Big difference and quality and durabliltiy. And when you get to models that scale the parts HAVE to be built thicker, stronger. The parts on the 8e were meant for a model its size. The shedder's share 90% of the same parts but have more weight and size.

It wasnt a bad idea, it just didnt work well.

Too bad the guy was a jerk, a $250 brushless E revo 1/10 is a steal.

quote:

ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM

3inch grass will be hard on most 1/10ths I'd say a 1/8th scale MT is pretty much minimal as to what is needed.


the problem with your logic on it being cheaper for parts cause they are 1/8th high chance is you will be replacing them more. So instead of replacing one $15 part you replace 6 $8 parts in the same time frame (as an example)

I would listen to nitro on that notice he is a redcat dealer, and is saying he would pass on it

Trust me I like being frugal to the point of cheap but sometimes its just worth the little extra so you don't end up with a money pit (I've had a few)

quote:

ORIGINAL: kettlecorn

quote:

ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM

3inch grass will be hard on most 1/10ths I'd say a 1/8th scale MT is pretty much minimal as to what is needed.


the problem with your logic on it being cheaper for parts cause they are 1/8th high chance is you will be replacing them more. So instead of replacing one $15 part you replace 6 $8 parts in the same time frame (as an example)

I would listen to nitro on that notice he is a redcat dealer, and is saying he would pass on it

Trust me I like being frugal to the point of cheap but sometimes its just worth the little extra so you don't end up with a money pit (I've had a few)

Oh i meant in reference to what he said about getting the aftershock or earthquake 8e. if that's a 1/8 scale, why not get the shredder which is 1/8 but on steroids and cheaper? but i did not know he's a redcat dealer so i take his word for it haha. damn i guess the search continues.. 

quote:

ORIGINAL: yakfish

I am not in the least a Traxxas fan but even I would have gone for a $250 e-revo if it was in good shape. Not buying it out of spite from a guy who was a jerk is really just shooting yourself in the foot. I mean it sucks he was a jerk but not a reason to not pick up a good deal.

quote:

ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM

quote:

ORIGINAL: yakfish

I am not in the least a Traxxas fan but even I would have gone for a $250 e-revo if it was in good shape. Not buying it out of spite from a guy who was a jerk is really just shooting yourself in the foot. I mean it sucks he was a jerk but not a reason to not pick up a good deal.

well in this case I'd have not also as if the guy didn't want to answer any questions he could have ended up with a truck that was in poor shape that the guy doctored together just to make it look nice.

also I thought the revo needs 4S minimum if it would run on 1 2s it was prolly a merv

quote:

ORIGINAL: kettlecorn

quote:

ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM

quote:

ORIGINAL: yakfish

I am not in the least a Traxxas fan but even I would have gone for a $250 e-revo if it was in good shape. Not buying it out of spite from a guy who was a jerk is really just shooting yourself in the foot. I mean it sucks he was a jerk but not a reason to not pick up a good deal.

well in this case I'd have not also as if the guy didn't want to answer any questions he could have ended up with a truck that was in poor shape that the guy doctored together just to make it look nice.

also I thought the revo needs 4S minimum if it would run on 1 2s it was prolly a merv

What is a merv? 

EDIT: Oh I guess the mini 1/16 is called the merv? I dont think it is though cause the ad says 1/10. Also the ESC is a 120a. Isnt the merv smaller than that?

Is there a way to tell a difference between the two based on pictures? If it was a smaller one thatd be ****ty. 

quote:

ORIGINAL: TheKennyKiller

Is this the ESC you have?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17235__Hobby_King_120A_Sensored_Sensorless_Car_ESC_1_8_1_5_.html

It says in the specs it can only be run on 4S.

You will need to wire your ESC in a series or get a series connector to run 4S. What kind of connectors do you have?

quote:

ORIGINAL: kettlecorn

quote:

ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM

3inch grass will be hard on most 1/10ths I'd say a 1/8th scale MT is pretty much minimal as to what is needed.


the problem with your logic on it being cheaper for parts cause they are 1/8th high chance is you will be replacing them more. So instead of replacing one $15 part you replace 6 $8 parts in the same time frame (as an example)

I would listen to nitro on that notice he is a redcat dealer, and is saying he would pass on it

Trust me I like being frugal to the point of cheap but sometimes its just worth the little extra so you don't end up with a money pit (I've had a few)

Oh i meant in reference to what he said about getting the aftershock or earthquake 8e. if that's a 1/8 scale, why not get the shredder which is 1/8 but on steroids and cheaper? but i did not know he's a redcat dealer so i take his word for it haha. damn i guess the search continues.. 

quote:

ORIGINAL: kettlecorn


Thanks. So after hearing the input from yall I bought it. I'm glad you mentioned the merv cause I made sure to check the internals and compare to see what's going on. From the outside they look identical. I thought I might  have been getting scammed. But it wasn't a scam. I think what happened was a lot of people inquired about it and he started to lose patience with people cause it was set at a good price. This type of situation is rare but I do a LOT of business and transactions on CL and it looks like it was a scenario where the guy just wanted it gone. Want it gone fast, no hassle, done deal at the price he asked which was more than fair. This in turn, brings out of the woodworks a lot more flakers and lowballers than if you would put the price higher than average. It's funny how that works. If you want to sell it fast and value something lower than average, people assume its tainted or you don't care and come hard with lowballs and I think that's what did it. Understandable cause I've been at the seller's end with low ballers and lollygaggers before. 
Sometimes when someone prices something too good to be true, it's either broken or a scam, or someone who needs or wants it gone without problems. It's a rare find but when it comes around, gotta pounce! 
I wish I knew about rc cars a bit more, it would've made the decision a lot easier. 
Anyway thanks to all the forum members, I got a car to start off on. Came with a bunch of extra parts. I dont know enough to know if something is bad or damaged from full inspection and things are good, suspensions are good, demo was good. Only need to get the batteries and charger now.

I have an Imax b6 charger on the way i bought from someone online. 

Can yall help me pick out batteries that won't burn my esc or motor to the ground? Running almost 100% on grass. The motor is a 1900kv brushless and ESC is hobbyking 120A. There's a video of someone running the hobbyking 120A with 6s with good success on his Turnigy Trailblazer 1/5 (same as redcat shredder) and he says it's doing very good. I dont know about my motor though and gearing and things so any help appreciated. There are two battery slots/compartments but only 1 connector from the ESC which is weird. Do I need to get a splitter or something? 

Looking to maybe get 2S 5000 mah at 20C which is the cheapest but if the small $ increase in price for a 3s 5000mah at higher Cs will be better, I'll get those. Hobbyking has good prices on batteries and a 2s and 3s difference for the same MAH and C are only a few dollars. 

BTW, this e-revo is BIG as hell. WOW. Is this all 1/10 rc cars? Isn't the slash a 1/10? Seriously it's as big as my 21'' monitor. I thought it would be the size of a large shoe box or something. It's what I thought a 1/5 redcat would look like. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29dqZg62RK4

quote:

ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM

quote:

ORIGINAL: kettlecorn


Thanks. So after hearing the input from yall I bought it. I'm glad you mentioned the merv cause I made sure to check the internals and compare to see what's going on. From the outside they look identical. I thought I might  have been getting scammed. But it wasn't a scam. I think what happened was a lot of people inquired about it and he started to lose patience with people cause it was set at a good price. This type of situation is rare but I do a LOT of business and transactions on CL and it looks like it was a scenario where the guy just wanted it gone. Want it gone fast, no hassle, done deal at the price he asked which was more than fair. This in turn, brings out of the woodworks a lot more flakers and lowballers than if you would put the price higher than average. It's funny how that works. If you want to sell it fast and value something lower than average, people assume its tainted or you don't care and come hard with lowballs and I think that's what did it. Understandable cause I've been at the seller's end with low ballers and lollygaggers before. 
Sometimes when someone prices something too good to be true, it's either broken or a scam, or someone who needs or wants it gone without problems. It's a rare find but when it comes around, gotta pounce! 
I wish I knew about rc cars a bit more, it would've made the decision a lot easier. 
Anyway thanks to all the forum members, I got a car to start off on. Came with a bunch of extra parts. I dont know enough to know if something is bad or damaged from full inspection and things are good, suspensions are good, demo was good. Only need to get the batteries and charger now.

I have an Imax b6 charger on the way i bought from someone online. 

Can yall help me pick out batteries that won't burn my esc or motor to the ground? Running almost 100% on grass. The motor is a 1900kv brushless and ESC is hobbyking 120A. There's a video of someone running the hobbyking 120A with 6s with good success on his Turnigy Trailblazer 1/5 (same as redcat shredder) and he says it's doing very good. I dont know about my motor though and gearing and things so any help appreciated. There are two battery slots/compartments but only 1 connector from the ESC which is weird. Do I need to get a splitter or something? 

Looking to maybe get 2S 5000 mah at 20C which is the cheapest but if the small $ increase in price for a 3s 5000mah at higher Cs will be better, I'll get those. Hobbyking has good prices on batteries and a 2s and 3s difference for the same MAH and C are only a few dollars. 

BTW, this e-revo is BIG as hell. WOW. Is this all 1/10 rc cars? Isn't the slash a 1/10? Seriously it's as big as my 21'' monitor. I thought it would be the size of a large shoe box or something. It's what I thought a 1/5 redcat would look like. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29dqZg62RK4

traxxas has no idea what scales are
as for batteries you will want 30C minimum for the ESC at around 5000mah
I know a few good batteries that are pretty cheap, but don't know the dimensions of the tray
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14991 heres one pack I use on my 1/8th scale truggy, and savage flux but not sure if they will fit in the tray of a revo

quote:

ORIGINAL: kettlecorn

Thanks! So you wouldn't try to go for 3s instead of the 2s with the esc/motor that's on the car right now?

quote:

ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM

quote:

ORIGINAL: kettlecorn

Thanks! So you wouldn't try to go for 3s instead of the 2s with the esc/motor that's on the car right now?

personally no I wouldn't recommend it either as you haven't even driven it yet
if you find it too slow on 4S you can bump it up to 6S. But just remember 6S pushes most RC's the the breaking point, and they WILL break and fail often

quote:

ORIGINAL: kettlecorn

quote:

ORIGINAL: SyCo_VeNoM

quote:

ORIGINAL: kettlecorn

Thanks! So you wouldn't try to go for 3s instead of the 2s with the esc/motor that's on the car right now?

personally no I wouldn't recommend it either as you haven't even driven it yet
if you find it too slow on 4S you can bump it up to 6S. But just remember 6S pushes most RC's the the breaking point, and they WILL break and fail often

ah youre right that is true. don tneed things to break and need to learn to drive. but lipos so expensive.. 

would it make a difference if i went up to 40c or higher or is there a reason why you chose 30c? what about 20c?