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Shark 650EP Boat - 12/17/2012 10:48 PM

grimgard

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Here is my Shark 650EP Speed Boat 26.5" long. I bought the hull and hardware and added my own electronics. I put in a 60amp Turingy ECS, 2900kv Turingy brushless motor, Turningy Servo, and GT3B TX/RX. I plan on running a 2s Lipo then trying out a 3s Lipo and see if it can handle it. I also added a different drive shaft and coupler. Once the rain stops I'll take it out for it's first run.

< Message edited by grimgard -- 12/18/2012 5:31 PM >

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/18/2012 4:45 PM

grimgard

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No comments? Underpowered? Overpowered? Cool boat? What a piece of junk? lol some feedback would be appreciated.

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/18/2012 5:50 PM

Mikeup

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U-joint, i'd forget them too! I would go 3S lipo 4500maH and a 34mm prop in the 4 pitch. Your 3S at 2900 gives you 32,000 rpm and with a 34mm prop , i would backcut prop. Reason for backcut is to let motor wind out and lets boat go faster and less heat. Solid coupler to a .130 cable which is inside the shaft....... I have a 22" mono like yours with a Leopard 2550kv but have a 34mm prop backcut on 3S and it is fast. 2550 x 11.1 = 28305rpm. Now if i would have put a 3000kv motor in, it would be unstable. I would have prop down to a 632 or a cnc 1.7- 32mm which wouldn't lift the rear end to much. I think a 5 pitch on a 34mm prop would be it. I think you'll like that size of boat. I just noticed it is a step model. My boat isn't a step model which in my opinion does turn well . I see a video where a 650 was bouncing ALOT and had a 1.4-36mm 3 blade prop which increased speed where a 2 blade 34mm prop would settle the 650 down enough to be stable for a stepped model, my opinion! The kv on the video was 4122 kv on 2S which is spot on. The 3 blade prop does make boat faster as i have a 29" mono from BBY which has a 440/3 and a Villian 30" with a carbon fiber 440/3 prop and gets to unstable with the 3 blade prop. Enough out of me, i think as i type, am retired.

< Message edited by Mikeup -- 12/18/2012 7:00 PM >

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/18/2012 11:08 PM

grimgard

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Mikeup

U-joint, i'd forget them too! I would go 3S lipo 4500maH and a 34mm prop in the 4 pitch. Your 3S at 2900 gives you 32,000 rpm and with a 34mm prop , i would backcut prop. Reason for backcut is to let motor wind out and lets boat go faster and less heat. Solid coupler to a .130 cable which is inside the shaft....... I have a 22'' mono like yours with a Leopard 2550kv but have a 34mm prop backcut on 3S and it is fast. 2550 x 11.1 = 28305rpm. Now if i would have put a 3000kv motor in, it would be unstable. I would have prop down to a 632 or a cnc 1.7- 32mm which wouldn't lift the rear end to much. I think a 5 pitch on a 34mm prop would be it. I think you'll like that size of boat. I just noticed it is a step model. My boat isn't a step model which in my opinion does turn well . I see a video where a 650 was bouncing ALOT and had a 1.4-36mm 3 blade prop which increased speed where a 2 blade 34mm prop would settle the 650 down enough to be stable for a stepped model, my opinion! The kv on the video was 4122 kv on 2S which is spot on. The 3 blade prop does make boat faster as i have a 29'' mono from BBY which has a 440/3 and a Villian 30'' with a carbon fiber 440/3 prop and gets to unstable with the 3 blade prop. Enough out of me, i think as i type, am retired.

Thanks for all the info! When you say back cut what do you mean? Sorry new to boating. I will have to measure the prop that came with the boat and see what size it is. I have a few 3s and plenty of 2s so I will test both out but I figure I'll end up using a 3s. This boat also has a self righting system that I'll have to sort out as well. Thanks again.

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/19/2012 1:43 AM

Mikeup

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I have a hard time explaining backcut. Try google but you kind of hollow out behind each blade and is like letting off the brake when accelerating.

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/19/2012 10:33 AM

siberianhusky

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One thing that could be a problem, you have a really big gap between the stuffing tube and U-joint. That space combined with the U-joint could whip at rpm and chew up the stuffing tube and cable. I don't think you're running enough power to twist the cable but I'm pretty sure it will whip.
You usually keep that space less than a half inch.
The one other thing is it a cable with square ends that floats in the prop shaft? If it is you're ok for clearance at the drive dog, if it's a one piece cable and stub shaft you need to leave about a 3/16 gap between the drive dog and stinger to allow for a little shrinkage when the cable winds up a bit under load. Otherwise it may bind and chew up the end of the stinger.

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/19/2012 5:46 PM

grimgard

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quote:

ORIGINAL: siberianhusky

One thing that could be a problem, you have a really big gap between the stuffing tube and U-joint. That space combined with the U-joint could whip at rpm and chew up the stuffing tube and cable. I don't think you're running enough power to twist the cable but I'm pretty sure it will whip.
You usually keep that space less than a half inch.
The one other thing is it a cable with square ends that floats in the prop shaft? If it is you're ok for clearance at the drive dog, if it's a one piece cable and stub shaft you need to leave about a 3/16 gap between the drive dog and stinger to allow for a little shrinkage when the cable winds up a bit under load. Otherwise it may bind and chew up the end of the stinger.

I ended up using a solid coupler & ditched the U-Joint. The Cable is round at the end and I added a small gap between the prop and the end of the shaft. I did notice a bit of vibration but I assume that is the shaft vibrating in the tube and seemed normal. I do have another shaft that is solid with a flex end on it. Do you think that would be better?

Thanks for the help guys it's appreciated!

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/19/2012 6:52 PM

Mikeup

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This is my idea and a suggestion! I would move motor toward the flex cable about 1/2" which depends on lenght of coupler. Use a dremel to cut flex cable but be careful not to cut off to much, small incruments at a time is best. Been there, done that. That cooling jacket should be replaced as it doesn't cover much of motor. Just trying to make sure that problems are few and far between. You'll be alright with Husky on board, he's a Guru, as far as i'm concerned. Any other thoughts , bring'em on board.

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/19/2012 7:30 PM

grimgard

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Mikeup

This is my idea and a suggestion! I would move motor toward the flex cable about 1/2'' which depends on lenght of coupler. Use a dremel to cut flex cable but be careful not to cut off to much, small incruments at a time is best. Been there, done that. That cooling jacket should be replaced as it doesn't cover much of motor. Just trying to make sure that problems are few and far between. You'll be alright with Husky on board, he's a Guru, as far as i'm concerned. Any other thoughts , bring'em on board.

Tell me about it! the shaft that came with the boat was cut to short by me

and is why I added this flex shaft. How would I go about moving the motor closer? The mount is fiberglassed in place.

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/19/2012 11:33 PM

Mikeup

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I'd go to LHS and get some fiberglass cloth and then use 5 minute epoxy and mesh it into cloth. The best way i found would be to keep mount attached to motor and put a piece of wood or anything to hold up rear of motor to get alignment correct and then lay cloth down and then mesh epoxy in and let dry for a good hour.. Now be fussy in this stage so everything is spot on. Husky can chip in and give his thoughts and maybe he has another way. Now in my boats, i leave a permanent item under rear just for bracing and helps keep the motor alignment in place. This way vibration is minimal.Forgot, you have a step model where motor almost touchs bottom of boat. I would put a light layer of oil on motor close to mounts so epoxy won't stick. I still would put a piece of wood under rear of motor..This would be the most economical way and have a solid drive system. Straight epoxy on fiberglass boat holding the mount wouldn't hold very long.

< Message edited by Mikeup -- 12/19/2012 11:54 PM >

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/22/2012 9:40 PM

Mikeup

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Best deleted. That makes the world turn,

< Message edited by Mikeup -- 12/25/2012 1:21 AM >

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/23/2012 2:37 AM

enelson4

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People who flame another poster are simply exposing their own ignorance. It's best to just ignore them. 90% + of the folks on these forums are great people. By the way, I thought your advice was very good, maybe not the way I'd do some of it, but we all have our own way of doing things. I don't think any new by would go wrong following your suggestions.

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/23/2012 10:46 PM

grimgard

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Mikeup

I got a email saying i didn't know S*** and told to get lost! I'll stay to myself and mind my own business. Take care ! Getting to old for that kind of crap. I was raised to respect and help people but now days , no comment. Oh yes, have fun with your boat!!!

Who sent the email? Whoever it was is just an looser and I wouldn't take stock in anything they said. I thought your advice was great! Thanks!

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/28/2012 11:04 PM

grimgard

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Well I got a day of good weather and took this boat out to the nearest lake and WOW!!! it's super fast! The water cooling I picked did an excellent job and after my run the motor was barely warm to the touch and the ESC was cool. This boat is super stable and preformed perfectly.

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 12/29/2012 2:07 AM

Mikeup

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Excellent, glad your in heaven with the boat, have a good day!

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 1/2/2013 8:02 PM

grimgard

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quote:

ORIGINAL: Mikeup

Excellent, glad your in heaven with the boat, have a good day!

Thanks for the PM and all the great advice!

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 1/6/2013 7:47 AM

almaidah

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Here is my shark. http://m.youtube.com/index?client=mv-google&rdm=mfca6bvj#/home. I rnan it
stock setup on 3s 5000m

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 1/6/2013 3:48 PM

Mikeup

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Al, it says it can't be found video????/ u-tube!

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 1/6/2013 3:54 PM

almaidah

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http://youtube.com/index?client=mv-google&rdm=mfca6bvj#/home.

Try this sorry

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 1/6/2013 3:59 PM

almaidah

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if it dont work search shark 650 ep by almaidah1

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 1/6/2013 5:02 PM

Mikeup

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All we get is pictures and no video????????????????????? Images - same stuff ???????? We were expecting videos?????????? LOL??????? madmax 3022 on u-tube running the rapids is what your referring to in your posting. Should have said so to make things easier ti find??????? I put a posting in your video about jets. Did the jet that had regular running gear work out. I see you put a strutter in place of offset system. Did the hopping disappear?

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 1/6/2013 5:10 PM

almaidah

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Sorry my video is on youtube tried to copy the page from my phone you can search or try this last link sorry again
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q8uvU3rihFc&feature=youtube_gdata_player

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 1/6/2013 7:31 PM

Mikeup

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I've got a Exceed 22" no step and it really moves out like your 650 ep. I put a Leo. 2550 kv in instead of the 2600 original and put a 435 Octura prop on instead of the 3 blade prop, what a difference. I like the flood chamber. 3S is the juice.

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 1/6/2013 7:48 PM

almaidah

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Do you thunk the 435 octura prop will be ok on mine?

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RE: Shark 650EP Boat - 1/6/2013 11:48 PM

Mikeup

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Right now your running a 36mm-1.4 3/blade than can flex some and i would say yes and would think speed wouldn't increase enough to buy a metal prop. Just for the satisfaction of having having a metal prop is all. Man, your boat plain flies in your waters with ease. Just make sure the watercooling is working. My 22" does the same as you guys with the 650 ep. FUN, isn't it.

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