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Paint Question - 12/30/2012 1:07 AM   
Skip



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Status: offline 		I'm building a Dyna Flight Decathalon and I need to paint the cowl and wheel pants. I will be using a DLE 30 cc gas engine and was wondering if Rustoleum would be a good choice. Do I need primer or do I apply it straight from the rattle can?

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RE: Paint Question - 12/30/2012 1:10 AM   
WacoNut



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I have used Krylon spray paint with good results. I like the Krylon as it seems to spray better then the Rustoleum. It holds up well to gas.
The Stick was painted with Krylon. It was shot over Dupli-Color primer.
Anthony

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RE: Paint Question - 12/30/2012 1:16 AM   
huck1199



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Status: offline 		I don't think rustoleum is fuel proof

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RE: Paint Question - 12/30/2012 1:26 AM   
scale only 4 me



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quote:

ORIGINAL: Skip

I'm building a Dyna Flight Decathalon and I need to paint the cowl and wheel pants. I will be using a DLE 30 cc gas engine and was wondering if Rustoleum would be a good choice. Do I need primer or do I apply it straight from the rattle can?

I'm assuming you're spraying ABS parts since fiberglass would need primer
Many Rattle can paints cover fine without primer, but if you're going to use any shades of yellow, orange or red I'd use a solid white primer first unless the ABS cowl is perfectly white, any dark spots will show through.

good luck

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RE: Paint Question - 12/30/2012 1:55 AM   
GaryHarris



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Status: offline 		I don't know which paint to use but I would suggest washing the plastic to remove any mold release agents and it probably wouldn't hurt to skuff it up a little with something like Scotchbrite.

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RE: Paint Question - 12/30/2012 2:22 AM   
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ORIGINAL: huck1199

I don't think rustoleum is fuel proof

Gasser. I use latex house paint for gas powered planes. Cheap, easy to work with and clean up. Found and color matched at most hardware stores. Not very high gloss though. One of the beauties of gas power is the paint doesn't need to be fuel proof.

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RE: Paint Question - 12/30/2012 2:51 AM   
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Status: offline 		hi
i have used Krylon on both my gaint rv-4s recovered them and painted the cowls and the wings on the yellow one been three years still looks new just change over the red one to a dle-20 gasser this year no trouble from that

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RE: Paint Question - 12/30/2012 4:46 AM   
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Status: online 		Picked up an automotive paint from Auto Zone. Tested it with glow fuel over night, no change to the painted surface. This was a body paint, not for engine or other specialty paints. Cant get to the paint brand tonight but if anyone is interested you can email me rjbesheer@aol.com

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RE: Paint Question - 12/30/2012 1:08 PM   
OldScaleGuy



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Status: online 		If color match to the rest of the plane is important, i would go with latex. Stores like Home Depot can color match the paint to a sample you provide. If color match is not important i would use Krylon, it is easy to work with and provides a good finish from a rattle can. Also, i would use Krylon primer, it works very good as well and sands easy. It may take a couple of coats. I used Krylon primer on these parts http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=11343043

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RE: Paint Question - 12/30/2012 5:49 PM  1 votes
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Status: offline 		Just something I wanted to bring up about fuel proof paint. The term used to be hot fuel proof and that meant the exhaust and oil. It never really was meant to be able to withstand direct nitro fuel for any length of time. I have seen model paint now stating it will be able to withstand fuel with up to 15% nitro in it. It just never says for how long. I just had some Klass Kote flake and peel after a fuel tank leak. I also used no primer, I just painted over the glass but I glassed with straight lacquer. That was the first time I have ever seen Klass Kote soften and peel off??

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RE: Paint Question - 12/30/2012 8:45 PM   
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Status: offline 		Thanks guys. I ordered fiberglass parts from F/G specialties so it will be necessary to prime the parts as well as fill pin holes. Looks like I will use Krylon as the color match is not really that important to me.

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RE: Paint Question - 12/30/2012 11:12 PM   
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Status: online 		The paint I got from Auto Zone that didnt soften or run after having nitro fuel applied to it over night is called "Dupli.Color, Perfect Match.
U should be able to find it under Dupli-Color.com
The one I used to run my test was BUN0090 Unuversal Black Metalic.

Hope this helps.


Rafeek

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RE: Paint Question - 12/30/2012 11:16 PM   
RAMFlyer



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Status: offline 		Rustoleum is GASOLINE proof.  You said you were using a GASOLINE powered engine so Rustoleum will be fine.  Krylon will be fine.  Latex will be fine.  None of these paints work worth a darn with Methanol powered engines but that is NOT what you were asking about. 

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RE: Paint Question - 12/31/2012 12:46 AM   
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Status: offline 		That is the point, gas is forgiving!! Most paints work well with it. Steve, is the Rustoleum flexible? Something else to think about when painting glass parts. I have painted cowls and pants and had them stress crack over time.

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RE: Paint Question - 12/31/2012 1:43 AM   
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Status: offline 		Good job on the shaker can paint jobs!

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RE: Paint Question - 12/31/2012 11:39 AM   
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Status: offline 		Paint will crack, chip, whatever, if the substrate is improperly prepared, or if it is flexing, itself. The paint isn't the problem, the preperation is. Stress cracks come from the substrate, not the paint.

As far as fuel resistance goes, I have better luck with Rustoleum, but Krylon does a reasonable job.

A good finsh can be produced when using rattle cans. Surface prep is the key, as it is in any paint job.

In these pics, both models were painted in Rustoleum.

The Cessna was painted using an HVLP gun, from paint available in quart cans.

The glow powered Cub, was painted from spray cans.

On both models, the fiberglass parts were primed. No open bay areas were sprayed with primer, as they flex, and the primer would crack. Rustoleum, Krylon, etc, are all flexible enough to spray over open bays without future problems.

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RE: Paint Question - 12/31/2012 2:00 PM   
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Status: offline 		Most paints are a form of enamel or lacquer, and will be fuel safe. If you allow the paint to dry for an extended time you will not have any trouble . I used good old testers model paint to do a cowl for a Sig Kadet. The only problem this one had was a little fuel staining from the die in the glow fuel. The paints like Rustoleum are an Alkyd enamel no acrylic and will cure very well with time. If you are getting the paint in a pint can or some other bulk form they sell what is called " Japan drier" this will help the paint cure.

If you go with an automotive touch up paint, these are lacquers and and really fuel proof but are brittle so will tend to crack easier.

Andy.

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RE: Paint Question - 12/31/2012 2:04 PM   
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quote:

ORIGINAL: AJsToyz

Most paints are a form of enamel or lacquer, and will be fuel safe. If you allow the paint to dry for an extended time you will not have any trouble . I used good old testers model paint to do a cowl for a Sig Kadet. The only problem this one had was a little fuel staining from the die in the glow fuel. The paints like Rustoleum are an Alkyd enamel no acrylic and will cure very well with time. If you are getting the paint in a pint can or some other bulk form they sell what is called '' Japan drier'' this will help the paint cure.

If you go with an automotive touch up paint, these are lacquers and and really fuel proof but are brittle so will tend to crack easier.

Andy.


I use an automotive hardener, with my Rustoleum. It improves gloss and decreases the dry time.

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RE: Paint Question - 12/31/2012 2:11 PM   
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Status: offline 		Two differant animals, surprised it works. Acrylic hardener is meant for acrylic enamel. Unless Rustoleum has changed over the years it is alkyd based would require an alkyd hardener.

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RE: Paint Question - 12/31/2012 2:21 PM   
TomCrump



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quote:

ORIGINAL: AJsToyz

Two differant animals, surprised it works. Acrylic hardener is meant for acrylic enamel. Unless Rustoleum has changed over the years it is alkyd based would require an alkyd hardener.



The guys at the auto paint store said the same thing. They were interested, though, when they found out that it does work.

I'm a paint guy, having been in the manufacturing end for over 30 years. I'm not big into adding unknown additives in to my paint. I was hesitant to try it, but a couple friends had success with it. I tried it only after their success.

Rustoleum says that their paint can be thinned with acetone or mineral spirits.

The mineral spirits is not strong enough to cut the hardener. The resulting paint job is terrible.

The acetone cuts the hardener well, but the paint flashes off a bit faster.

I've painted three models in this manner. I'm quite pleased with the outcome.

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RE: Paint Question - 12/31/2012 2:28 PM   
AJsToyz



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Status: offline 		Tom,

Is that an Isocyanate type hardener? Just curious now how it works. Used to be in the paint buisness a few years ago also. There are a lot of things you can do, but would never tell people because people tend to push the limits, and would never want to be responsible for some ones bad judgement or going against a manufacturers guide lines.

If acetone works it actually opens the door for other thinners also.


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RE: Paint Question - 12/31/2012 2:34 PM   
OldScaleGuy



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Status: online 		Interesting. Tom, what ratio are you using, paint to hardener to acetone?

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RE: Paint Question - 12/31/2012 2:35 PM   
TomCrump



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Status: offline 		I really don't know, Andy. I just know that it works.

I agree with people pushing the limits. That's why I try to thoroughly explain what I do, and show the products that I use. I am aware that any deviation can cause problems.

The Evercoat product does not have that distinct odor that many automotive hardeners produce. You know, that stink that permeates the air for weeks, in enclosed spaces.

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RE: Paint Question - 12/31/2012 2:36 PM   
Russmall


 

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What is the mixing ratio you use with the paint and hardner?

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RE: Paint Question - 12/31/2012 2:37 PM   
TomCrump



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quote:

ORIGINAL: OldScaleGuy

Interesting. Tom, what ratio are you using, paint to hardener to acetone?


Steve, the can says 1 can to a quart. That's what I do, although I usually mix a pint of paint and a half can of hardener.

I don't mix it to the acetone, but to the paint.

I add the hardener to the paint, and then thin with acetone.

No set ratio of paint to acetone. I thin to the consistancy of milk. I probably start at 2 parts paint, and one acetone. I test spray, and add more solvent,if necessary. It could easily end up as a 1:1 mix.

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