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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 1/30/2013 2:12 PM   
MAUS45



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Status: online 		Scratch Build. Scratch Build, Scratch Build!!!! Use it man it is way better!!!!

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 1/30/2013 9:52 PM   
DeadTom



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Status: offline 		I love this build and have not posted much but have got alot from it, thanks. Wow that thing is a beasty for sure, keep up the great work.
And if you are looking for votes on the barrel my vote is to scrap the one your have and build one that will make you smile. Besides if you don't you will always look at it and say "I should have fixed that".....at least that is what I would do.
Thanks for sharing,
DT

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 1/31/2013 4:12 PM   
nascardad88



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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 1/31/2013 4:33 PM   
nascardad88



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Status: offline 		Squid, I think the resin version that came with the kit is fine, but then if your going to spend time as you have why not start again and make it accurate...assuming the resin peice was cast wrong and the new peice is not striking you as good. You have done WAY more then I would have even attempted or wanted to devote to a RC tank or even a static tank, but thats what makes your work stand out the way it does...and why I always ask you for advice or direction on a peice I'm working on. Oh by the way, I'll be asking soon for that direction concerning a project for nationals...STUG III bridge crossing in winter!!

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/2/2013 12:08 AM   
streetsquid



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Status: offline 		Hey Everybody,
Thanks so much for the input, I've really been spinnin on whether or not to use this part, or remake it. And Deadtom is right, makes no sense to take the extra time and go to the added effort and not be happy with the final results. But then again, once its painted will anyone other than me ever even notice?

The challenging part here was the vent holes and the math and geometry needed to calculate the exact spacing to get the correct number of appropriately sized holes around the center point. Then the answer hit me square in the face like an obscene version of a "I should have had a V-8" commercial. I had learned the perfect technique to resolve this issue years ago when I was working in a model shop and I already had everything I needed to pull it off. Plus like I've told you before, my favorite part of this hobby anymore is writing these threads and sharing ideas and techniques. So this will not only net me the part I want, but hopefully someone will find this useful on one of their current or future builds.

All you need is an original drawing or print, a can of Krylon Crystal Clear (or Kamar Varnish) and access to a copy machine. Now this wont work with an inkjet printer, but works really well using a copier that uses regular toner (powder that gets baked onto the page). I started by making a copy of a line drawing in one of my reference books. Then taking some simple measurement I calculated how much I needed to blow the image up to get it to the final size I needed (The outside dia. of the barrel is 1 1/4"). Using the copier I sized the image up and ran several copies on the darkest setting the copier had, meaning the paper had a very dark and sharp image.

Now the magic, I cut off the excess paper around my print making it amore managable size and easier to place and then sprayed several wet coats of Krylon Crystal Cleardirectly onto the image, you want it to be good and wet but not running. Place the image face down on a clean peice of styrene and burnish it (Be careful not to move the image or it will smear) using your fingers. Only let it set for 20-30 seconds (any longer and the clear with start to adhere the paper to the plastic surface)and then slowly lift the paper and viola'! The Crystall Clear softens the toner and will transfer it onto the plastic. I now had the perfect image I needed to make a more accurate part.

A few words of caution besides not moving the wet image, the image will come out relatively light, but should be adequate to work from. Once you let it dry the toner on the styrene is still a little fragile and can easily be damaged or wiped off with alcohol. Using light coats of Crystal Clear or your favorite clear coat seal the toner. Obviously be caeful not to get it too wet as it will ruin the image.

Don't forget too that you will get the reverse or mirror image of the original. In my particulat case it doesnt matter as the part is symmetrical. If in your instance it does matter and you do want the image the right way, when you are making your first copies and adjusting the size, use clear mylar and flip the image over on the copier so that what prints on paper is the reverse, then when you transfer it to the plastic the image will be the right way round. This doesnt work as well for larger items say bigger than 4-5 inches accross because you get what's called keystoning - where the ends of the image bend slightly because the drum inside the copier is round and the image you are copying is flat. I promise with very few attempts you can get satifactory results in just a few tries.

Well looks like I now have some more scribing, cutting, drilling, filing and sanding to do eh?

I hope this text combined with the accopanying images made sense. If you have questions or want clarification please let me know!


Streetsquid

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/2/2013 12:42 AM   
MAUS45



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Status: online 		Squid that is the coolest process. This changes how I am going to scratch parts going forward that can be created using flat plastic card. Crazy simple to re-size a drawing to scale!!!

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/2/2013 6:42 AM   
streetsquid



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Status: offline 		MAUS45,
Well there you go! I've always adhered to the idea that if one single person learns something or benefits in some way from one of my threads, then the entire effort was worth it. You ended up with something you liked or was worth reading about and that makes taking the time to snap the pics and write this all worth it!

I hope you get the chance to try this technique out sooner rather than later, and when you do I hope you post pictures and share!



Kindest regards,
Squid

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/2/2013 7:18 AM   
streetsquid



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Status: offline 		Alright guys,
I needed a break from my little "barrel project" so I switched gears and focused on a few smaller cosmetic details that didnt take ast much brain power. I've seen some Sturmtigers with foliage tie-downs added and I have always loved the look of German armor that have tools and accesories missing, so I decided for this project to add the tie-downs and retaining cables, but not have any foliage attached. I'm hoping it will add to the "well worn" and "currently lived in" look, that should hopefully add to this tanks personality.

Was a simple straight forward task. Uising .030" dia brass wire I bent up half a dozen foliage tie-downs, then used a .032 micro drill in my pin vise to drill mounting holes in the front of the casemate. The tie-downs will be secured with superglue (CA) and weld detail made of putty will be added.


Street

PS Sorry the images came out so yellow. I brought one of my overhead halogen lamps down close to the model and at a low angle for better lighting and it threw off my white balance

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/2/2013 7:43 AM   
streetsquid



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Status: offline 		Ok kids,
I don't know about anybody else, but on every project I build there is at least one part or assembly that either scares the crap out of me, or for one reason or another I find myself avoiding and procrastinating. The frustrating part is, I often can't put my finger on why I'm avoiding that particular part, because almost 100% of the time when I finally tackle it, it's never as complicated, or challenging as my mind made it out to be, and I usually love the results

For whatever reason unbeknownst to me, on this Sturm I've been avoiding scratchbuilding the new removable (it's not hinged and was lifted off on the real tank) round hatch replacing the white metal one on the roof. Earlier in the thread I had opened up the hole, created a new bezel and added a dropped shouldered lip that the new hatch would sit on. Funny thing is this new hatch will hardly ever actually be on the tank as this same opening will house the TBU.

Well I finally decided I earlier today I should just bite the bullet and jump into it. I figured since I'm making a new barrel end maybe I could reconstitute the old one I had spent all those hours making. They had similar diameters, and although not accurate, the barrel holes and scribed detail would add a lil something to the never seen bottom side of the hatch. Again nothing fancy here and no big secrets.

To make the hatch I capped off the barrel ring with some .040" styrene sheet and added a champfer all the way around so that it slid easily into the opeing. Then using some .030 sheet and a circle template I made the uppper ring. I made the periscope by cutting a piece of Renshape to size and shape, then laminated .250"x.030 styrene around it to create the frame. Finally I sliced thin wafers of Plastruct hex rod on my chopper to create the bolt heads around the upper ring.

It may not be 100% historically accurate, but frankly I don't care. I have never made apologies for taking artistic and creative license on my tanks, and I won't now. I generally go for what is interesting, unique, different, or visually appealing to me. And like most of those items that scare me, this ended up being no big deal, didnt take that long, and I like the results so much better than the white metal kit part.



Streetsquid

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/2/2013 9:39 AM   
ksoc



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Status: offline 		Squid,

Your transfer process looks great, and leaves a semi permanent image on the material.

As an alternative you could use Avery sticky back paper. Not an image directly in the material as in your method, but an inkjet can print directly on the paper. Less distortion on larger parts up to letter size.

Here is another option, if you have an laser printer/toner based copier. In the early days of CAD we use adhesive backed mylar sheets we could run through a copier. The stuff is expensive at $85 for 100 - 8 1/2" x 11" sheets. (search for "drafting appliqué film"). If you have any friends who are draftsmen / engineering type they might be able to get it for you a few sheets at a time.

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/2/2013 10:08 AM   
Panther F



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Status: offline 		It's all looking VERY good!

Make sure you make that periscope to rotate... mine is.














~ Jeff

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/2/2013 10:21 AM   
sollie



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Status: offline 		I'm running out of stuff to say. This is frikking mad good. Thanks you so much for sahring this, and great writing and pic's to :-)

May I ask if you're book show where the sturm had weld lines, and if can you share that . Thanks



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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/10/2013 9:19 AM   
streetsquid



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Status: offline 		Hi all,
Slow going over the last week, but seems like this entire build has been that was, seems like at every turn somehting derails my efforts or takes me away from the bench.

Anyhoo, truly in the home stretch now and building the last few peices and fiddily details bits. The resin kit included the connicle bolt heads that go through the Tiger hull sides cast in white metal, there are 6 per side and 12 in all. Well as luck would have it, my kit was missing one.

So I had 3 choices;
1. Leave one off and make it look like it was ripped off or removed after being damaged or lost in battle.

2. Steal one from the front glacis from my Hooben Elefant (I used the Attack resin zimmermit set which came with a new front plate, so I had the stock Hooben kit part left over), which would require some cosmetic surgey to remove the molded on bolt.

3. Chuck some material in my Dremel and use it like a lathe to scratch build a replacement for the missing kit part

Well I attached the casemate to the lower hull, and marked the placement of all 12 connicle bolts (they sit in line with and directly below their corresponding connicle bolts molded into the casemate). Each white metal bolt came with a molded pin on the back side. So I center punched and then drilled the 0.040" locating.mounting hole. The I checked each bolt into my dremel and cleaend up any flash and surface inperfections using some jeweler's files and sanding blocks. The kit bolts were then installed using superglue (CA).

Well option's 1 and 2 quickly went out the window. Leaving the bolt off just looked funny and unconvincing, it looked like I forgot to install one. Adding one from the Hooben Elefant glacis didnt work either, as it was noticeably smaller in diameter and height. So my only true option was to scrtach one.

Again no big deal here. Took a small block of Ren, drilled a hole and superglured a brass pin inot the hole. I used a small set of clippers I nibbled away material and roughed out the a circular shape.Then using the pin as a center axis I chucked it into my Dremel. I first made a simple cylinder to the apprpriate diameter. Then using a pencil, I eyeballed the width of the flat shoulder at the base of the connicle bolt and marked it while it was spining in the Dremel. Finally it only took about 10 minutes with some files to shape a new connicle bolt. Once paint and weathing is added I don't think you'll ever notice any difference from the cast metal onces


Squid

PS On a side note it is also easy to see in the last couple of shots, I have added the "cold rolled steel" texture to the lower hull to make it consistent with the texture on the resin casemate. It's just a lot more obvious here with the contrast on grey plastic and original Dk Yellow paint

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/10/2013 9:28 AM   
streetsquid



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Status: offline 		Moving up front I added new fender attachment brackets. Earlier in this build Isanded away the poorly detailed brackets that were cast into the casemate. I had no intention of adding the new resin replacement front fenders so the brackets would become prominent on the front face.

Using some 0.030" x 0.188 styrene strip, I made 4 semi-cicular cut outs on each, then superglued then to the casemate. Bolt detail cut from hexrod was added.

Street

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/10/2013 9:33 AM   
streetsquid



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Status: offline 		The main ventillator on the top of the casemate was cast very rough, and had most of the internal fan detail damaged. The white metal cover designed to go over it, was the wrong shape, too thick and over simplified, so I decided to build a new one.

Using a circle template I made concentric rings on some 0>015" sheet styrene, then cut them out and mounted them to a frame made of 0.030" x 0.125 styren strip. It's not perfect as the resin ventillator ended up not being symmetrical, but it looks alot better than the kit part.


Squid

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/10/2013 9:46 AM   
streetsquid



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Status: offline 		Alright guys,
And finally for tonight, I did jump back in and recreate a new muzzle end. All told i built this part 4 times and probably have 10 invested into this one stupid little detail. But in the end I knew I couldnt live with the kit part which inly had 20 holes that were too large and no other detail, or my first attempt which ended up with 32 holes which were too small in diameter but had the correct ringed grooves added.

Well my final attempt had the appropriate 28 vent holes of the correct diameter and spacing, plus had the internal groove and I added a ringed lip to to outside edge. I'm much happier with this one then the first 3 attempts. After shortening the resin barrel by 0.060" to compensate for the thickness on the new piece I supreglued the styrene end cap on and sanded it to match the outside diameter of the cast resin part.

I then added the kit's white metal blocks at 12 and 6 O'clock on the barrel. Using some some ren I fabricated the small blocks at 3 and 9 and added styrene rod detail. I am not adding the barrel counterweight, as I think the tank actually looks meaner and more menacing with it removed. Plus it fits in with my theme of having things missing, which adds to the used and abused look.

regards,

Streetsquid

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/10/2013 9:50 AM   
streetsquid



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Status: offline 		sollie,
sorry didnt forget about man, I'm using a couple of books and they all have pictures of real Sturms, so yes you can see the welds. The George Bradford book I have with 3 view drawing in 1/48th and 1/35th scale does not show the welds. But since I've now completed all of the detail parts and peices that needed to be added, my next step will be adding in all the missing weld detail. So sit tight and I should have some images for you in the next couple of days.


Craig

< Message edited by streetsquid -- 2/10/2013 8:32 PM >

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/10/2013 1:58 PM   
Panther F



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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/10/2013 8:10 PM   
sollie



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Status: offline 		Craig, this is shaping up man. Looking fw to the next update :-) Allready I'm picturing the final shot's of this build before it hit's the primer booth.



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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/14/2013 5:28 AM   
streetsquid



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Status: offline 		sollie,
Thanx I appreciate it! Progress has been way slower than I had EVER hoped for, and unfortunately I'm not gonna make my own self-imposed deadline of having this ready for the DAK February battle, which is this Saturday. But to have come this far and then rush like a mad man through the part I love best makes not sense either, so what do you say we finish this build and get on to some painting and weathering.

You had asked about the welds earlier in the thread, so here are some overall and detail shots. My method is pretty simple and although it looks stark now once in paint it all blends in nicely.

I use 3M acryl green acrylic glazing putty (same as the better known and more widely used 3M blue acryl) except the green is fast drying. I load the putty into a syringe with a blunt needle and the hold that needle at a 45 degree angle and basically draw a bead of putty where I want the weld to be. This is where those grooves or trenches I cut and filed earlier in the build come in handy. Then working relatively quickly (as this putty is very fast drying by design) I work the weld line with a small dental tool to add texture, and thats it, no big mystery, no special tools or fancy contraptions, straight forward, simple, fast, and effective....my kind of technique! (LOL)

Squid

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/14/2013 5:42 AM   
streetsquid



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Status: offline 		Alright lads,
And one of th final details i made some track/cbale hangers for the side and read of the casemate. In all my reference material these appeared to be a pretty standard shape and size with some variation in their placement. Because this was varried based my placement on the most common and consistent as far as the sides of the case mate, and although not all of the pics I had showed them on the rear, I liked they way they looked in the few photos that had them, so I added them.

Using my chopper, I cut 2 pcs of 0.060 X 0.125" styren strip into 1/2" lengths, then using the same material I cut another short length approx. 0.140" long. Using solvent these were assembled into a "Z" shaped bracket. I made 8 hangers in all, and then set them aside to dry overnight. The following day each of the butt joints were reinforced with a small fillet of superglue (CA) then the corners were radiused and all edges were slightly broken with a sandling stick.

I then took a few basic measurments from my reference 3-view drawings and one leg of the "Z" was superglued to the casemate, and weld detail was added as described above.


Street

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/14/2013 11:24 AM   
sollie



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Status: offline 		Thanks man :-) my kind of technique to, only I use the milliput , yellow and white.

I have a few areas to add some welds , so thanks for the heads up :-)

Carry on





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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/14/2013 2:56 PM   
Panther F



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quote:

ORIGINAL: streetsquid

sollie,
Thanx I appreciate it! Progress has been way slower than I had EVER hoped for, and unfortunately I'm not gonna make my own self-imposed deadline of having this ready for the DAK February battle, which is this Saturday.
Squid



Then quit addin' things to it and throw some paint on it NOW!


It's starting to look like a Da Vinci project, all the nice weld lines and details make me think I need another one JUST to bring it up to your standards.

Besides, I want one without the counterweight so maybe building the prototype Sturmtiger (the one with the standard roadwheels) is in order?







Or with the late wheels?




Anyway... nice work so far!














~ Jeff




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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/14/2013 4:13 PM   
sollie



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Status: offline 		nice pic's panther

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RE: Sturmmörserwagen 606/4 mit 38 cm RW 61 - 2/15/2013 6:36 AM   
streetsquid



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I considered building the prototype as well, simply because it looks cool, and although the Sturm is pretty unique, the prototype would almost be one of a kind - just didnt want to turn all those connicle bolts by hand using my Dremel.

Other than that.........................Alright Geez, I'll stop adding parts! (LOL) I mentione before I suffer from AMS (Advanced Modeler's Syndrome) can't leave anything alone, and good enough generally isnt! Biggest draw back is it's hard to finish projects!

I'm painting it dammit!

Street

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