Very often its that the rear hub carriers on the Volcano EPX Pro break with mild jumping or tumbling,before I go ahead and purchase the aluminum rear hub carriers,do any of you think by setting the rear suspension stiffer OR softest would reduce the carriers breaking?

quote:

ORIGINAL: jroptop

Very often its that the rear hub carriers on the Volcano EPX Pro break with mild jumping or tumbling,before I go ahead and purchase the aluminum rear hub carriers,do any of you think by setting the rear suspension stiffer OR softest would reduce the carriers breaking?

quote:

ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

quote:

ORIGINAL: jroptop

Very often its that the rear hub carriers on the Volcano EPX Pro break with mild jumping or tumbling,before I go ahead and purchase the aluminum rear hub carriers,do any of you think by setting the rear suspension stiffer OR softest would reduce the carriers breaking?

probly softer. The arm angle may be a factor as well. I have my suspension set low (arms almost level with car on the ground)
do you have the camber links set in the hole closest to the hub?
The alloy hubs are one of the upgrades I would buy. But ive found that setting the link to the hole closest to the hub helps the plastic ones last a good long time.
Ive jumped my tornado epx pro while running a vxl system on 3s lipo without breaking the hubs!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ODHMzg2w_Xo

quote:

ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

OK, couldnt find a good pic of the plastic hubs to show, but you get the idea from the pic I did with the alloy ones.

Doing this will change the camber of the tires....but those upper links are adjustable. You can lengthen it by unscrewing one of the plastic ends some...to compensate for moving to the inner hole.

With the plastic hubs, putting the camber link there makes a world of difference. The inner hole puts less stress (leverage) on the arm of the hub when there is an impact.

The same goes for the arm of the steering hub!

quote:

ORIGINAL: jroptop

PERFECT! I went ahead and ordered a set of the aluminum hubs and will adjust them to your description,thanks again Nitro!

quote:

ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

OK, couldnt find a good pic of the plastic hubs to show, but you get the idea from the pic I did with the alloy ones.

Doing this will change the camber of the tires....but those upper links are adjustable. You can lengthen it by unscrewing one of the plastic ends some...to compensate for moving to the inner hole.

With the plastic hubs, putting the camber link there makes a world of difference. The inner hole puts less stress (leverage) on the arm of the hub when there is an impact.

The same goes for the arm of the steering hub!

quote:

ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

quote:

ORIGINAL: jroptop

PERFECT! I went ahead and ordered a set of the aluminum hubs and will adjust them to your description,thanks again Nitro!

quote:

ORIGINAL: nitrosportsandrunner

OK, couldnt find a good pic of the plastic hubs to show, but you get the idea from the pic I did with the alloy ones.

Doing this will change the camber of the tires....but those upper links are adjustable. You can lengthen it by unscrewing one of the plastic ends some...to compensate for moving to the inner hole.

With the plastic hubs, putting the camber link there makes a world of difference. The inner hole puts less stress (leverage) on the arm of the hub when there is an impact.

The same goes for the arm of the steering hub!

with the alloy hubs you can put the link in any hole you want. The alloy's are is not only metal, but thicker than the plastic. It will be very hard to break it.

when you install the new hubs, make sure to take BOTH bearings out of the old hubs. There is an inner, and an outer bearing. The inner one is larger.
Ive sold some alloy hubs before and had the customer say the wheels now wobbled....but they forgot to put the inner bearing in the new hub!