quote:

ORIGINAL: 7kings

quote:

ORIGINAL: rcmadnessp51

...these loosen up and hung the throttle at about half, had to run it out of fuel and dead stick it in...

LOL - that sucks. More than anything, it's nerve-wracking when that happens (and worse when the tank is full and you have to watch it fly around in Nascar laps for twenty minutes just waiting for the engine to quit...) 

quote:

ORIGINAL: freeonthree

If he's using 100% full synthetic, 30:1 is way to much oil. 30:1 is for petroleum based oil. I run 100:1 in the winter and 80:1 in the hot summer months. I use Quicksilver 100% Full Synthetic. He may be oil fouling his plug, or maybe the fuel is having a problem going thru the screen.
I don't know why people are so stubborn when it come to 100:1 full synthetic mix. My friends Bryson 50 has been running it for 10+ years.
Neither of us have ever had an oil related engine failure or problem, and our spark plugs always come out deposite free. Dennis

quote:

ORIGINAL: 7kings

quote:

ORIGINAL: Ih82crash

I will bet you a thousand dollars that it is your ignition module. I have had this exact problem on my engine that has an RC Excel ignition. Both times it did it, I replaced the ignition module and the engine ran perfect. I asked around the web and nobody could help. I received the exact same advice you did but nothing fixed the problem until I replaced the ignition module. Incidentally both times i left the pick up sensor and switches in place and only replaced the module. Try it and I would be willing to bet that your problem disappears. Here is a link to a video that I made.... does it look familiar?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vlHyOeMV9L0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2XcAEKraTg

Interesting. The first video is similar, although I need to rechoke the engine after the first little burst of idle in order to get it to do it again. Did you experience the same ''once it got running for the day, it was perfect'' behavior?

quote:

ORIGINAL: 7kings

quote:

ORIGINAL: warbird addict

Not to be argumentive but after looking at over 10 different types of 2 stroke oils of different flavors and colors both synthetic and non synthetic they all had a specified mix rate listed,Valley view does alot of warrantee work on the DLE stuff and I think his name is Jody has posted on numerous threads to the effect that anything above 87 octane in these engines may well be the cause of ''PHANTOM'' problems thats not to say that you don't have an issue somewhere else be it an ignition or plumbing problem etc. however , it never hurts to start with the basics and go from there, atleast you will have eliminated those as potential problems , troubleshooting 101 start at the bottom and work up from there.
troubleshooting an engine any engine is a systematic aproach that has to start somewhere by eliminating the variables one by one otherwise you'll hopscotching around indefinitely and never solve the problem, I do this evey day in a different field entirely but the theory is still very sound and applies to anything that isn't working as prescribed, it's the things you take for granted or overlook that will keep you guessing forever, I'll be happy to give the latest example I'm currently dealing with.

quote:

ORIGINAL: 7kings

quote:

ORIGINAL: warbird addict

Valid points for sure but from a troubleshooting standpoint you have to start with the basics of making sure the minimum requirements are met and eliminated as the problem and troubleshoot from there, the 93 octane we already know is a problem some would argue that point but it's already been clearly stated by the people who make the engines that it's not a good idea and has no benefit to use anything other than 87 octane.
The OP has already stated that he's been all over the map with the needle settings I'm just curious as to exactly what the specified mix rate is listed on the oil he's using, that coupled with the 93 octane could have a significant impact on the problems he's having, but before you can troubleshoot the problem you first have to address the basics specificly and eliminate those as the problem, troubleshooting starts with step 1 the basics and works forward to the solution

I'm sorry, but I have to disagree (which I hate to do when I've asked for help).

1: The DLE manual (which are actually the people who manufacture the engine, not Valley View), clearly states that their recommended fuel is between 87-93 octane, so this is not an issue per the manufacturer.
32 to 1 is not unrealistic for an oil design that has an optimal ratio of 50 to 1 it's well within tolerance what it's giving you is a high low tolerance show me an oil with a 100 to optimal ratio that shows a 32 to 1 mix on the label? just saying dude finding the "NEEDLE IN THE HAYSTACK" starts with eliminating as much hay as possible first, it makes the search alot easier LOL If I were you I would seriously consider giving Jodi at Valley View a call and pose your quesion to him the guy knows his ****e frontwards and backwards and if he doesn't know he'll damned sure find out, he's good people and if he cannot fix you over the phone he'll do all he can to get you fixed up and flying again at some point after banging your head against the wall you need to say to yourself this thing needs to go where they have the right test equipment to know with certainty what the problem is, fix it and return it with suggestions on how to avoid having the same problem in the future, all of my DL and DLE engines run perfectly no problems but I stick to the recomendations posted by the people who do the warrantee work and what their findings have revealed and thus far it has served me extremely well.
If it were me I would check evrything I could check lacking sophisitcated test equipment (IE) tank plumbing /stopper/ carb obstructions/ vacume leaks/loose carb bolts/ bad gaskets/bad diaphragm/ new plug /clean dry fuel with proper mix ratio etc and if that does not net you any results send it to an authorized warrantee facility and have them put it on the test equipment and get it fixed for free under warrantee, unless you can prove a part is bad via accepted testing standards you are going to accomplish nothing more than throwing parts at it in hopes it fixes itself and hopefully it does not cost you an airframe in the process





2: 2-cycle oil is not generally engineered to be mixed at a specific ratio to be effective. As I've stated, on many (if not most) 2-cycle oil containers, mix quantities are listed for various mix ratios. The proper ratio is determined by the engine manufacturer, who decides exactly how much oil is needed for their mechanical application to operate as intended. The oil does not care how it is mixed. On the oil I've been using (Husqvarna), it lists mix quantities for 32:1, 50:1, and 100:1.
3: Regarding the earlier statement that higher octane fuel is more likely to cause preignition on low-compression engines, it's just completely backwards. The higher the combustion chamber compression ratio, the more likely it is to cause preignition (caused by the heat generated by the compression of gasses), which is then countered by the cooler-burning of high-octane fuel. Low-compression engines are able to run low-octane fuel because they do not generate as much heat during the compression stroke, which is a leading factor when talking about preignition (there are other factors, but we're sticking to compression ratios here). Honestly, the only thing I would be concerned about by running high-octane fuel in a low compression (non-boosted) engine is the possibility of engine deposits down the road.

I'm not trying to be an a$$, and I appreciate the help, but I just wanted to clear that up so we're not traveling down a false troubleshooting path.

Thanks.

quote:

ORIGINAL: av8tor1977

I had the same issue with a brand new out of the original bag RCEXL ignition on an engine. It would just pop and not start, or start and then quit when cold, but once you battled with it long enough to get it running for a while, then it ran fine the rest of the day. I did the usual trouble shooting with no luck, and then happened to mention it to Bill from CH Ignitions. He said to try a 6 volt battery instead of the 4.8 volt battery I had been using. That cleared it up and it ran perfectly hot or cold. He said every once in a while you encounter one that has weak spark until it warms up a bit from running/being used. The 6 volts steps up the quality of the spark enough to let it perform as it should on 4.8 volts if the unit was perfect.

AV8TOR

quote:

ORIGINAL: 7kings

quote:

ORIGINAL: av8tor1977

I had the same issue with a brand new out of the original bag RCEXL ignition on an engine. It would just pop and not start, or start and then quit when cold, but once you battled with it long enough to get it running for a while, then it ran fine the rest of the day. I did the usual trouble shooting with no luck, and then happened to mention it to Bill from CH Ignitions. He said to try a 6 volt battery instead of the 4.8 volt battery I had been using. That cleared it up and it ran perfectly hot or cold. He said every once in a while you encounter one that has weak spark until it warms up a bit from running/being used. The 6 volts steps up the quality of the spark enough to let it perform as it should on 4.8 volts if the unit was perfect.

AV8TOR

Thanks - I'm actually running a 2S LiFE (6.6v) regulated to 5.8v for the ignition. The ignition is rated to 6v. I've verified the output with a voltmeter just to be on the safe side.

quote:

ORIGINAL: kmeyers

quote:

ORIGINAL: 7kings

quote:

ORIGINAL: av8tor1977

I had the same issue with a brand new out of the original bag RCEXL ignition on an engine. It would just pop and not start, or start and then quit when cold, but once you battled with it long enough to get it running for a while, then it ran fine the rest of the day. I did the usual trouble shooting with no luck, and then happened to mention it to Bill from CH Ignitions. He said to try a 6 volt battery instead of the 4.8 volt battery I had been using. That cleared it up and it ran perfectly hot or cold. He said every once in a while you encounter one that has weak spark until it warms up a bit from running/being used. The 6 volts steps up the quality of the spark enough to let it perform as it should on 4.8 volts if the unit was perfect.

AV8TOR

Thanks - I'm actually running a 2S LiFE (6.6v) regulated to 5.8v for the ignition. The ignition is rated to 6v. I've verified the output with a voltmeter just to be on the safe side.

Oh my gosh! Not safe enough for me.

Now I have to ask have you tried a different voltage source (4.8 volt fresh, fully charged, and tested on another running engine for vibration proof) such as a 4 cell NiCd?
This is almost always one of the first tests we do at the field (regulators are notorious problem makers).

If you have already, good. If not, I think you should add it to your list of things to try.

Note: I use regulators on almost all my gas planes with great success.