quote:

ORIGINAL: Muttdog

I would replace the ignition module with another one. DLE 30 was my first gasser. When I set up the plane and test run the engine it shut off on me and would not restart until I turned the ignition off and then back on. Didn't think anything of it as this was my first one and thought I screwed something up. I ran a tank on the ground after that and had a wonderful maiden day of flying. Then a week later after a successful flight in the morning, I had a dead stick 5 minutes into my flight. I recovered the plane in the field and turned off all switches. When I got it back it fired right up. We looked it over and found nothing so I decided to fly again and sure enough 5 minutes into the flight it deadsticked again. This time I tried to start it again out in the field and it would not start. I also noticed that when I looked at the digital tach I have under the canopy that there was no RPM being registered when flipping it over like I noticed before. All I did was turn off the ignition and back on again and it fired right up. got it back and drained the fuel to go home but wanted to fire it up to run it dry. This time it failed almost immediately and same thing as before, no rpm registering on the tach until I turned off the switch and turned back on. In the end DLE sent me a new ignition module under warranty and I have now put over 3 gallons of fuel with zero problems. Even though the issues are not exactly the same, they were both intermittent. Many of the ideas posted are valid but most don't cause intermittent problems like you are describing. Usually fuel system issues or air leaks are always there and do not come and go like you describe . A faulty ignition module/switch/battery/opto kill etc could most certainly cause an intermittent failure and ignition issues can very easily be mistaken for tuning/fuel issues. You could change the pickup as mentioned already but in my experience it is rare to see a hall effect sensor fail intermittently. usually they work or they don't unless there is a mounting problem. If you have the option to try another ignition I would do that first.

quote:

ORIGINAL: All Day Dan

It sounds like it's time to check the reeds, rebuild the carburetor and finally replace the sensor and ignition module. Dan.

quote:

ORIGINAL: warbird addict

Valid points for sure but from a troubleshooting standpoint you have to start with the basics of making sure the minimum requirements are met and eliminated as the problem and troubleshoot from there, the 93 octane we already know is a problem some would argue that point but it's already been clearly stated by the people who make the engines that it's not a good idea and has no benefit to use anything other than 87 octane.
The OP has already stated that he's been all over the map with the needle settings I'm just curious as to exactly what the specified mix rate is listed on the oil he's using, that coupled with the 93 octane could have a significant impact on the problems he's having, but before you can troubleshoot the problem you first have to address the basics specificly and eliminate those as the problem, troubleshooting starts with step 1 the basics and works forward to the solution

quote:

ORIGINAL: bmfer

Well there are lots of thoughts. High octane fuel is not the prob. Get some 110 and run in it, it don't care but it will not make anymore power than 87 because you don't have the compression to benifit the high octane. 30 to 1 40 to 1 50 to 1. What ever it won't make it hard to start then run good after it starts. Get rid of the junk ashless oil and get something good. I like still ultra for airplane motors. This will most likely not fix the prob just help you in the long run. Most likely the needle is sticking in the carb and not allowing enough fuel in till it Loosens up from flipping the prop. Once it becomes lose it will work fine and work fine the rest of the day. Then it sets a few days and sticks again. Take carb apart and clean up good and really look good at the needle and seat. Air leak or tank filter or old gas bad oil mix will not magically fix itself and the engine start and run for the rest of the day. Anytime you have to start messing with needles to get it to start something is wrong!! As long as you have had it running in the past. If you get tired of it send it to me I will fix it. It's what I do fur a livin...

Just like some have said start with simple stuff and if all checks good you have to go deeper but you have to think what would cause it not to start good but once it does start it runs the rest of the day.

quote:

ORIGINAL: 7kings


Good solid advice. Thanks.

quote:

ORIGINAL: MTK

quote:

ORIGINAL: 7kings


Good solid advice. Thanks.

7Kings....tough poker hand to beat...

Just a thought, have you checked all the bolts for tightness and most importantly, seal, all around? Particularly the ones that mount the carb and reed cage to the rear cover. Also, have you carefully inspected the rear cover for cracks?

To me it sounds like an intermittent air leak.

quote:

ORIGINAL: kmeyers

One thing that has not been mentioned, THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS "FACTORY NEEDLE SETTINGS".

I have two 55's. I recomend a propeller that loads the engine enough to keep the RPM's down in the low 7000 range. I've been using a Bolly 23 x 8 which does this very well. It is not the only prop, but I keep the RPM's down to increase the longevity of the motor while making good power.

The tunning should always be done by the user on every occasion of different prop, fuel, oil ratio and large temp and humidity change.

If the factory setings are perfectly correct for one specfic time, it is just an accident.

After the normal steps are taken: fuel lines, battery charge, switch, clean the carb, spark plug,etc. You have look else where.

I start as if at the beginning, redo everyting.

quote:

ORIGINAL: 7kings

quote:

ORIGINAL: kmeyers

One thing that has not been mentioned, THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS ''FACTORY NEEDLE SETTINGS''.

I have two 55's. I recomend a propeller that loads the engine enough to keep the RPM's down in the low 7000 range. I've been using a Bolly 23 x 8 which does this very well. It is not the only prop, but I keep the RPM's down to increase the longevity of the motor while making good power.

The tunning should always be done by the user on every occasion of different prop, fuel, oil ratio and large temp and humidity change.

If the factory setings are perfectly correct for one specfic time, it is just an accident.

After the normal steps are taken: fuel lines, battery charge, switch, clean the carb, spark plug,etc. You have look else where.

I start as if at the beginning, redo everyting.

I don't think I understand. Factory needle settings are specified in the DLE manual. Are you saying that they shouldn't be used as a hard-and-fast setting for all occasions? If so, I agree, but if the engine runs fine with them one day and not the next with no real change to the any factors except the relatively minor climate changes between the two days, I'm not sure they are to blame. That being the case, we've messed with the needles and always end up coming back to the factory settings by the end of the day, and the engine ticks like a clock at that point.

I definitely have some good information that you guys have offered so far, so I have several things to check.

quote:

ORIGINAL: 7kings

quote:

ORIGINAL: MTK

quote:

ORIGINAL: 7kings


Good solid advice. Thanks.

7Kings....tough poker hand to beat...

Just a thought, have you checked all the bolts for tightness and most importantly, seal, all around? Particularly the ones that mount the carb and reed cage to the rear cover. Also, have you carefully inspected the rear cover for cracks?

To me it sounds like an intermittent air leak.

I have spent quite a bit of time on and around that carb, checking to make sure everything is tight. I haven't looked for cracks, so that's something I can check.

quote:

ORIGINAL: 7kings

quote:

ORIGINAL: kmeyers

One thing that has not been mentioned, THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS "FACTORY NEEDLE SETTINGS".

I have two 55's. I recomend a propeller that loads the engine enough to keep the RPM's down in the low 7000 range. I've been using a Bolly 23 x 8 which does this very well. It is not the only prop, but I keep the RPM's down to increase the longevity of the motor while making good power.

The tunning should always be done by the user on every occasion of different prop, fuel, oil ratio and large temp and humidity change.

If the factory setings are perfectly correct for one specfic time, it is just an accident.

After the normal steps are taken: fuel lines, battery charge, switch, clean the carb, spark plug,etc. You have look else where.

I start as if at the beginning, redo everyting.

I don't think I understand. Factory needle settings are specified in the DLE manual. Are you saying that they shouldn't be used as a hard-and-fast setting for all occasions? If so, I agree, but if the engine runs fine with them one day and not the next with no real change to the any factors except the relatively minor climate changes between the two days, I'm not sure they are to blame. That being the case, we've messed with the needles and always end up coming back to the factory settings by the end of the day, and the engine ticks like a clock at that point.

I definitely have some good information that you guys have offered so far, so I have several things to check.

quote:

ORIGINAL: freeonthree

BarracudaHockey, I run Quicksilver 100% Full Synthetic with regular gas, and I run 100:1 in the winter, and 80:1 in the summer when the temps are between 90 and 110. The manual for my buds Bryson 50cc tells you to run Full Synthetic at 100:1. It sounds scarey, but once ya run it for a while, you will never go back. I run the same fuel in my weedeater and chainsaw also. Dennis

Did you take the carb screen out and use compressed air on it, sometimes it can look ok but develop buildup which is hard to see till you actually take it out.