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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/6/2013 6:57 PM   
fly24-7



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From: North Aurora, IL, USA
Status: offline 		I would discourage you from using a 4 cell (4.8V) pack. The Spektrum receivers have a lower voltage limit that's higher than other brands. I lost a plane once because I though I had enough juice left in the receiver pack, only to have it brown-out on me in the middle of a turn. The receiver and servos you selected can tolerate a 5 cell (6V) pack and the weight different will have no visible effect. I changed all of my stuff to 6V packs since the "incident" and haven't had a problem since. Plus, I can typically get 8-10 flights out of a 6V pack before I need to recharge. More time flying, less time sitting idle charging.

Good choices on the other items. You'll have a great flyer.

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/6/2013 7:04 PM   
fly24-7



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Status: offline 		I've bought the following Venom packs and have had great success with them.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSFS4&P=7
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSFS5&P=7

But any pack for a reputable brand would get the job done.

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/6/2013 7:54 PM   
jester_s1


 

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Status: offline 		+1 on going 6v for all Spektrum equipment. Also, all receiver plugs currently manufactured are the same, so there's no need to worry about polarity on the packs. If it's in your budget to include a computerized charger, I'll suggest getting one and going with a Lipo battery attached to your starter. It's so much more convenient to handle it as a unit than to lug a 12v lead battery out and have the cord to deal with.

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/6/2013 8:11 PM   
JohnBuckner



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Status: offline 		No neither of those batterys would I ever use. At least not a full house airplane (meaning at least four servos or more) or posibly just a small parkie.

I would never use a four cell pack for any 2.4 system only five cell this especailly so with Spectrum that had all those early brownouts when the fellows used four cell packs. The capacity you choose is fine but I would also suggest five cell Nimh. Five cell Nimh is what I use in the majority of my fleet.

Regarding polarity that does not make any sense are those batterys not center pin l positive? The only reverse polarity that I am aware of currently is the long standing and irrational penchant for JR to use a centerpin negative two conductor charge jack on their transmitter not the Rx pack.

John

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/6/2013 8:29 PM   
dce21b


 

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quote:

ORIGINAL: JohnBuckner

No neither of those batterys would I ever use. At least not a full house airplane (meaning at least four servos or more) or posibly just a small parkie.

I would never use a four cell pack for any 2.4 system only five cell this especailly so with Spectrum that had all those early brownouts when the fellows used four cell packs. The capacity you choose is fine but I would also suggest five cell Nimh. Five cell Nimh is what I use in the majority of my fleet.

Regarding polarity that does not make any sense are those batterys not center pin l positive? The only reverse polarity that I am aware of currently is the long standing and irrational penchant for JR to use a centerpin negative two conductor charge jack on their transmitter not the Rx pack.

John


Ok I will look for a 5 cell nimh pack....  I was a bit confused on what was compatible with what when it comes to plugs and everything.  Unfortunately it seems Spektrum stuff is a bit expensive so I was looking for other name servos.  Anyway I was reading a thread that said they were supposed to make universal connections a standard among the different manufactures.  They said that you had to file off something on the servo plugs and they would fit fine into spektrum receivers.  But the one thing you had to be careful of was pluggin in JR connection into the receiver cause the polarity was different.

I cant remember where I read that but thats basically they were saying.



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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/6/2013 8:49 PM   
fly24-7



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Status: offline 		It's the transmitter polarity that's different. Receiver polarity is common. The connector on Futaba stuff had an additional tab that would need to be trimmed off to fit in non Futaba gear. Not a problem, can be removed with an Xacto knife.

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/6/2013 8:51 PM   
JohnBuckner



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Status: offline 		What they were saying was essentially correct. First all current systems use the same or similar centerpin positive servo plug there were some from airtronics many years ago that wired the plugs #3 pin positive that will not be an issue for you.

Now futaba choose to mould there plugs with an additional little index tab on the side and the purpose to not allow you to plug it in backward. So yes if you need to plug a Futaba plug into some other brands extensions or recieiver it would be neccessary to cut that little tab of and this is common practice with most of us simply because we have vast supplies of extensions switch harness etc. and we mix and match as neccessary.

Now yes it is possible to plug in backwards without that tab just as it is with all the brands. So what happen when you plug a futaba servo when the tab is removed into the extension or receiver backwards? Nothing, absolutely nothing it wont,t function so ya just pull it out and plug it back in the other way.

John

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/6/2013 10:15 PM   
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Status: offline 		Updated list

Engine
OS .46AXII

Glow Plugs
O.S. Engines #8 Glow Plug

Props
APC 10.5 x 6
11x5 MAS prop

Spinner Prop Nut
730 Spinner Prop Nut 1/4-28

Servos
Hitec HS-422 Servo 

Fuel Pump
911 Kwik Fill Fuel Pump

Reciever
AR600 6-CH SPORT DSMX RECEIVER

Receiver Battery
Venom Racing NiMH 5C 6V 1600mAh 

Switch
Switch Harness w/Charge Lead

Glow Driver
Dynamite Metered Glow Driver with 2600mAhNi-MH & Charger

Electric Starter 
Sullivan Products Electric Starter,12V Standard

Saftey Stick
Safety Stick Engine Starter
 
What kind of gas do I need?  Do I need different gas for break in then i will for normal flight?  Also how long can I expect flight times on per tank?

FYI I also plan on doing a build thread... im gonna make a pdf with this parts list so anyone else completely new like me doesnt have to do all this leg work.  So don't worry guys this work wont be in vain, thanks again for all the help.


< Message edited by dce21b -- 2/7/2013 4:50 PM >

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/7/2013 3:03 PM   
jester_s1


 

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Status: offline 		Four tweaks I'd make to the list: If you aren't going to buy a computerized charger then go with NiCd batteries. They are considerably more tolerant of being overcharged and overdischarged than Nimh, so they'll last longer. The servos you picked will work well, but for just a couple more dollars you can have the Hitec 425BB ones. I see they are backordered now, but will probably show up soon. They have a dual ball bearing support for the output shaft so they are more durable. It won't matter at all on a trainer, but if you plan to pull your servos out of the trainer later and use them in a sport plane, you'll benefit from the tougher servos. You still need a battery for your starter. Last, there is no need to buy a #7 glow plug. The #8 is made for the mid sized OS engines and will run it fine.

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/7/2013 9:07 PM   
fly24-7



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quote:

ORIGINAL: dce21b

 Do I need different gas for break in then i will for normal flight?  Also how long can I expect flight times on per tank?



I've used Omega fuel with 10% or 15% nitro with good results. You can use this fuel for both break-in and flight. Just follow the manual that comes with the engine for the break-in procedure.

As far as flight times, it depends on the size of the tank that's in the model and throttle management. Fly the whole time at full throttle, you'll get less time than if you're cruising at 2/3 throttle. The manual for your engine states that you should expect roughly 12-13 minutes of flying time on a 300cc tank.

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/15/2013 12:33 PM   
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Status: offline 		 Ok so quick update.... I was on a 3 day off from work and was able to get alot done... even so there a lot more to go.  Got both wings constructed mounted motor on fire wall and did the fusealge doubler.  I stopped here because I'm still trying to figure out how I am going to go about the tail dragger conversion.  Post to follow just adding pictures now cause i cant from my phone.  Sorry for the blurry photos will try to get some later.




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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/15/2013 1:21 PM   
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Status: offline 		Yeah so anyway I still need to finish wings as far as joining them and installing the airleon servos and completing the bolt on mod.  

I am gonna complete the plane as a taildragger and want to do it now because it will be much cleaner and i dont wanna tear it apart in a few months to do it.  The areas j will fly at are both grass fields so thats why im doing it.

Yes i used the search function but have yet to find a step by step WITH pics (most have dead links) showing how to do it.  I get it for the most part but wanted some opinions on wheel size, wheel brackets and whether to use a pull pull system, direct to servo connection or connected to the rudder conection.  It seems they all work but i would like to know which is best.  For instance a pull pull system seems the most sturdy but adds more weight.A direct connection to servo is good but the rod may need more support guides due to warping instead of fully pushing.  and then the connection to rudder ive seen post of people busting a part the rudder due to stress caused by rough landings.

thoughts? 


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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/15/2013 2:30 PM   
jester_s1


 

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Status: offline 		A really simple connection that is as slop free as anything is a rod in a tube. That can be a Sullivan goldenrod or a 2-56 metal rod running through a thin tube all the way back. If the airfield is fairly rough I'll suggest doing a separate connection to the tailwheel not so much out of fear of breaking it but because the strain can wallow out the hole in the rudder you use for control giving you a sloppy tailwheel. You know about moving the mains forward so the wheels are under the leading edge of the wing in a taildragger conversion right?

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/15/2013 2:37 PM   
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Status: offline 		Yeah basically i want the front of the main landing gear inline with the leading edge correct?

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/15/2013 4:35 PM   
dce21b


 

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Status: offline 		Im thinking of following this guide here for my conversion what do you guys think?
 
 
I dont have my plane here to do measurements but I would like to use these parts
 
Main Gear
or
 
 
Tail Wheel
 
I obviously will be fabricating my own tail gear assembly if I follow the guide... I think this has a nice clean look to it.  But am unsure of wheel sizes.  I have a very rough runway surface and want to have the best handling for the ground as i can with out having to big of tires... like im flying a bush plane.  Would the 3 inch wheels that come with the plane work for me? Suggestions?  


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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/15/2013 5:12 PM   
jaka


 

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Status: offline 		Hi!
Every time a newbie ask questions about what plane to get, he/she thinks that the plane is going to kept for a long time..! -Nothing could be further from the truth!!!
A newbie will sooner or later crash and destroy his /her plane regardsless if he joins a club and gets help or flies on his own, so do not plan on doing any fancy modification stuff to it! It's not worth it!
I'm a big fan of the OS LA .40 and .46 series engines as these are perfect for a newbei,Those engines are dead relible and are light and doesn't explode in power when the newbie ads throttle (which a ball bearinged engine will do). They are also quit powerfl which means they could swing rather big props like 11x6 and 12x4, 12x5 ,which are more suitable for a high winged trainer at sea level.




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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/15/2013 5:19 PM   
dce21b


 

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Status: offline 		Thats a total jack ass response dont you think?  Regardless of whether or not this plane last I'm doing this to learn and because I like to make things my own. Theres nothing fancy about sticking a rod into my rudder and moving my main gear up to make it a tail dragger.  Maybe you lack the ambition skill or knowledge to accomplish a simple task such as this but I for one do not find any of this fancy or hard to do.  

How bout you go take a long approach on a short runway...


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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/15/2013 5:56 PM   
cfircav8r



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Status: offline 		I had my first plane for almost 20 years and only got rid of it due to damage from too many moves, and there were several mods I should have made during building that I had to work harder on making after a year or two of flying. Do the mods you want and enjoy every minute of the build and flying. Go about it the right way and you may have a plane for decades to come.

P.S I actually learned on my own with no help whatsoever, also no sims back then cir. 1981.

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/15/2013 6:54 PM   
dce21b


 

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Status: offline 		Yeah I'm getting to the point where im gonna stop asking questions and just do what i want to.  Its people in the hobby like that, that makes people like me avoid clubs and other "I know it all" fliers.  If I wanted to deal with @#*$) I just stay at work.

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/16/2013 2:38 AM   
tevans55


 

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Status: offline 		Just like in every walk of life you will find folks here that want to "Bad mouth" something or criticize something else. Don't be discouraged...the success of RCU is that there are many more pilots and builders that genuinely want to help others with their experiences in the hobby and know how to do it in a manner that benefits you personally and others that will read this thread now and in the future. Let me encourage you to keep doing what you are doing and asking questions that will benefit you, me and others in the future. You're providing a valuable asset. Good Luck!

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/16/2013 5:05 PM   
jester_s1


 

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Status: offline 		Jaka speaks English as a second language and I think he sometimes comes off as being rude when he doesn't mean to. Cut the guy a break because he is trying to help you. He's not always right, but he is always trying to help.

There is a grain of truth in what he said though. You will beat up this airplane. You may not auger it into the ground (probably won't actually if you work with an instructor and build your skills progressively) but you will have the occasional bit of damage. I've always said a trainer doesn't even look right until it has 6-7 patches in the covering and a main gear that's bent six ways from Sunday but somehow still rolls straight. So enjoy the building process and make it the way you want to make it, but also understand that it's not going to stay pretty forever.

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/17/2013 2:28 PM   
jaka


 

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From: Upplands Vasby, SWEDEN
Status: offline 		Hi!
Yeah! I did not mean to hurt anyone,just giving some advise from seeing so many newcomers go wrong during the 36 years I have been in this hobby. So sorry if I hurt anyones feelings!

One of the first mistakes newcomers do is to overpower their planes, putting .46 two-strokes or bigger in a .40 size high winged trainer when a .40-.46 OS LA or .42 TT would do much better , thinking: Power is good to have so a little more power couldn't hurt"...Nothing could be further from the truth! Lot's of power is inviting a crash!

Second mistake seen is that they tend to think that they would keep the plane for longer periods of time and therefore indulge in making it pretty or modifying it to look more scale like. Or even worse, they tend to think a high winged trainer is unnécessary and go right on to a low winged sportplane.

I don't say that it's possible keeping a trainer airworthy and in fine condition for longer periods, I did it myself when I started flying R/C when I was 21 years old ,and sold the palne I started on some years later. I have seen youngsters learing to fly in just a couple of flights, but many of the fliers I have helped flying during the years have been older guys (40-70 years old), and they have had a much more difficult time learning.

So...my advise is to build that high winged trainer as it is, Power it with a .40 ball bearinged engine or an OS .46LA or .42 TT, join a club a and get help flying...then get alow winged sport plane to train manouvers on...and enjoy!

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/23/2013 12:24 PM   
dce21b


 

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Status: offline 		 Quick update... nearly finished main construction just need to install landing gear and support for it.  Install stabilizer and do the covering.  Is it worth keeping the fin off til i cover it?  I have been ordering stuff as i get paid.  All i need now is covering, iron, reciever and battery... oh and fuel and I think im good to go.

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/23/2013 12:33 PM   
gene6029


 

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Status: offline 		Plane is looking good! Allmost there .....Gene

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RE: Noob to War Plane - 2/23/2013 1:12 PM   
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Status: offline 		 Thanks... its been somewhat a pain cause its been freezing for the most part the last two months here in the NE and my garage is cold.  Worried bout glue and freezing temperatures so main construction has been doneinside.  I also still need to do the body work as far as filling and final sanding.

At times i have felt overwhelmed and combined with being a bit of a pefectionist theres been times of frustration.  This is my first build ever and you guys have helped alot but with no experiance theres a big differance between talking about it and actually doing it.  But all in all its been pretty good experiance.

Due to costs time and life i think my road map to war bird wont be for a couple years.  I think I will spend the summer getting completely comfortable and proficent with my trainer and build a low wing tainer like the tiger 2 or something next winter.  Then do the same the following summer and then the next winter tackle a war bird.


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