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First floats - 2/13/2013 11:53 PM   
stevegauth30@comcast.net


 

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Status: offline 		 So I am restoring my first set of floats. Being a first time float planer, I figured I would buy a used set off of a buddy for $20 rather than brand new. I have done quite a bit of reading on it and really feel confident I have them set up right. They do add a bit of weight to the plane being that I went with too big of material, (1/8 x 1 inch and 1/8 x 3/4 inch alum. ). Other than that, I think the angle is good, they are parallel to each other, and super solid. I also cut the tops open and put new plywood and blind nuts because some of the blind nuts originally fell through. My question is that being already so heavy, I'm second guessing my first plan to fiber glass them. I read you can cover th em with one of the mono kote like films. Does it stay stuck or peel off a lot. Do I have any other options? BTW, they are hollow kit floats from probably 20 or more years ago. 

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RE: First floats - 2/14/2013 2:47 AM   
bikerbc


 

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Status: offline 		You can put a lite 3/4 oz cloth on the top of your float and a heaver 2 oz cloth on the bottom ..You can use film like ulta coat but you dont save that much weight and peeling can be a problem...I prefer to glass them..They are much stronger and more leak resistant...You will need to paint them too but you can rattle can some stuff from the body shop supply store that is fuel proof..I biggest reason to put heavier cloth on the bottom is because of the impact of the water and scratching of the ground...The film will get scratches and holes in it , you almost half to glass the bottom no matter what...

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RE: First floats - 2/14/2013 3:20 AM   
stevegauth30@comcast.net


 

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Status: offline 		Thanks a lot bikerbc. How about the size of aluminum? Is it over kill?the plane is perfectly balanced some how still with the floats. That's like a miracle. I thought for sure I would have to add somewhere. I'm still going to put another cross brace in the back , and change the front one to the smaller 3/4  x. 1/8 stock. In your opinion, is it worth trying to set up a servo to make the rudder retractable? Or just put a spring on it? Steve.

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RE: First floats - 2/14/2013 8:54 AM   
bikerbc


 

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Status: offline 		No I don't think thats over kill You are rite you do need the spreader bar on the back..I would not put a servo to retratct your water rudder though...Just let it flip up on its own...If it hits something it should be able to kick up...It is only usefull when you are going slow..As soon as you pick up speed the air rudder takes over....You are doing a great job..Make sure your step is about 1/4" to 1/2" behind the C of G..It can be anywhere form on the Cof G to a little behind ..

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RE: First floats - 2/17/2013 9:14 PM   
stevegauth30@comcast.net


 

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Status: offline 		how about the water rudder? What would be the best method for the linkage?do you mount a servo in the float? I can run a snake off the rudder, or neven its own servo in the fuse.im ust wondering what you guys are doing. Thanks alot, Steve.

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RE: First floats - 2/18/2013 2:25 AM   
lupy


 

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Status: offline 		I have done both. These days I think it's most practical to run a separate servo on the float. The long flex line off the rudder servo always looked kind of silly to me. If you use a small servo, it will weigh less than the linkage. Just take it apart, brush the motor, pot, circuit board with Corrosion X, put a little grease on the output shaft and seal it back up. You only really need a water rudder on one side. Weigh both floats and put it on the light one.

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RE: First floats - 2/18/2013 5:03 AM   
stevegauth30@comcast.net


 

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Status: offline 		 What about water getting in around the servo. Maybe I will cut a thin rubber gaskit to put down first. That should help, I think. Thanks a lot, Steve.

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