w1nd6urfa

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I'm almost done and getting ready for maiden this weekend, se here's a brief build log:

I reinforced the retract / wheel bay area by inserting a U-shaped wire behind the retract mount

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Dangaras

What's the U shaped wire for?

w1nd6urfa

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I used the Top Flite Corsair 60 decal set which suits the tri-color paint scheme

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w1nd6urfa

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Then did quite a bit of weathering

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w1nd6urfa

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Dangaras
I've read about wing folds and experienced it myself on the H9 Hellcat three years ago. Since then on all my planes with rotating retracts (where the bottom spar is divided at the wheel bay area) I reinforce the retract area with extra wood, glassing and the U-shaped wire that effectively subtitutes the bottom spar in the area of the wing that supports the plane's weight, suffers G forces with up-elev and also gets the landing impacts.

I've done it on a couple of P-40s and haven't had any problem since.

w1nd6urfa

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Wow, crossed the 100th page mark!

Continuing, drew panel lines with pencil, silver pen and more washes and airbrushing

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Dangaras

Very nice. Good luck on the maiden..

w1nd6urfa

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Made strut covers from 0.8mm alum sheet, slightly curved to hug the wing

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w1nd6urfa

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Next was the dummy engine, painted base dark grey, then Model Master Metalizer Burnt Metal (the one that buff-shines) and then a wash with rust and oil stains

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w1nd6urfa

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I also made an air duct for the Saito 100 to direct the air flow over the cylinder and keep it cool. Greek summer can get quite hot!

Its the first time I try this, will report on how it works

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w1nd6urfa

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Post-maiden I will tackle the TF cockpit, and look for a suitable pilot. I got my eyes on [link=http://centuryjet.com/product_info.php/cPath/46_38_36_31/products_id/33]the CJ 1/9 pilot[/link], any opinions?

CG at 4.5" to start with, might move back if I notice any nose-over tendencies.

w1nd6urfa

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Also post-maiden I'm thinking of hiding the Rx switch behind a simple hatch like [link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=980759&page=3#post11815425]this[/link]

Any ideas / photos?

Never

Very nice three-color scheme.
What colors did you use?
My Corsair has an OS FS 110, and retractable landing Century Jets

Marco

w1nd6urfa

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Hi Marco,

I used House of Kolor which are for motorbike tanks and helmets. I made the camo colors from the elementary ones, mixing by eye.

I've also worked with Model Masters and Gunze, all good.

Nick

tevans55

I used Aces of Iron pilot in my H9 Corsair.

w1nd6urfa

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Great looking pilot, pity they don't have full body figures

w1nd6urfa

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Successful maiden, looks great and very easy flier. Love this plane!

Thanks you Dangaras, LDM, v6goose, pogoed, (and many others that I forget!) for posting here and being an inspiration turning this ARF into a scale project.

Nick

rino

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Would anyone have a pic or description of how to glass the inside of the firewall. I'm building and H9 Corsair now and want to do the proper mods first.

Thanks,

Steve

w1nd6urfa

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rino
The area inside the firewall - tank is quite large but with a small opening due to the tank mount.

Therefore the technique is:
- Cut about 20 small pieces (1" square) of 1/2 oz cloth
- Mix finishing epoxy and use a brush to spread it on the firewall and all the wood in the tank area. You might want to bend the epoxy brush to get to the hard to reach areas like the bottom of the tank area
- Place the cloth on the firewall-fuse joint and anywhere else you can using long tweezers or a hemostat
- Use the brush again to wet the cloth with more epoxy

Photos after glassing

rino

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Guys, I have another question. I have a DLE 20 that I was planning for the Corsair. I know the capabilities of this engine and it's quite powerful for its weight. I also like to fly fast. 120 mph would suit me fine.

So, is the H9 Corsair or any of the H9 warbirds for that matter worth the work if you like to fly fast. It looks risky from what I've read. I have no problems reinforcing the firewall, but the wing is not so simple.

And please, no lectures about putting a a 60 sized motor or Saito 100 on this bird. I did not buy it to drive it slow.

Other options might be to sell and go Top Flight or Black Horse Models. Americanpioneerhobbies has a well-built BH Spit that can handle the speed.

w1nd6urfa

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I would agree the Corsair is risky for that type of flying and the heavier it gets the more trouble you'll get with rotating retracts.

A Spit, P-51, Me-109, FW-190, Ki-84 should be safer, faster and more fun

Meanwhile here's some cockpit shots:

drube

I picked up a used H9 corsair thanks to the wifey, she bought it for me. I've read this whole thread and learned so much about this plane thanks to you guys!
Saito 100, 14x7x3 MA Prop, JR digital servos, JR retract servo,Stock Retracts, CG at 4.5"and reinforced the main spar around the retract plate. Looking to fly it tomorrow for the first time. Can any one compare this to the Hellcat or P-51 Marie's flying Characteristics? I love those planes!
I plan to glass and paint at some point, do you think the Saito 100 will still be ok power wiseafter Glass and paint?

Thanks

rino

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Do you have any pics on how you reinforced the main spar? Did you cut into it to do it?

w1nd6urfa

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drube,
Mine is painted and clearcoated, with Lado retracts, robostruts and Robart scale wheels (all heavier than stock), dry weight about 8,5 lbs. The Saito 100 turning 14x7x3 @ 9,200 RPM gives plenty of power and she's not fully broken in yet

rino,
I reinforced the retract mount - bottom spar using a U-shaped steel rod (see pics). I use this mod on planes with rotating retracts (eg P-40s) ever since the wing folded on my H9 Hellcat at this very spot.

I also glass the wheel bay area and wet all accessible ribs, spars, leading edge etc with thin CA

dawhale

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I have an example of a carbon reinforcement if someone can tell me how to post a picture from my desktop.