H9 Corsair  
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  • All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> ARF or RTF >> H9 Corsair
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    H9 Corsair - 12/9/2003 6:46:50 PM   
    WacoOne


     

    Posts: 169
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    From: Gulf Breeze, FL, USA
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    Hey Guys
    I concur with the complaints with the rudder/tail wheel nightmare. That wire is so hard that it takes a bulldozer to bend it. Definately bend it before installing the rudder.
    I am now in the process of connecting the retract rods to the servo arms. Having a heck of a time! What's the secret? Do you cut off the rods? The manual doesn't indicate that they are cut. The manual also shows the rods parallel to each other with the servo in the retracted position, but I can't get mine parallel. Did anyone else have problems here? Help!
    Bill

    (in reply to LDJL)
           Post #: 126

    RE: H9 Corsair - 12/9/2003 7:03:19 PM   
    DrDeath



    Posts: 1551
    Joined: 4/14/2003
    From: Bethesda, MD, USA
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    WacoOne

    That is definilty the best way to install it. I wish I would have done it that way. Instead mine is a little bit off (Guess that is what trim is for). I too will be doing the retracts tonight.

    (in reply to WacoOne)
           Post #: 127

    RE: H9 Corsair Reply to DrDeath - 12/9/2003 7:16:15 PM   
    WacoOne


     

    Posts: 169
    Joined: 4/23/2002
    From: Gulf Breeze, FL, USA
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    DrDeath
    leave a post here tomorrow about how your retract installation went. I'm curious to see if I'm the only one having problems with it.
    Bill

    (in reply to DrDeath)
           Post #: 128

    RE: H9 Corsair Reply to DrDeath - 12/9/2003 9:21:15 PM   
    tophat


     

    Posts: 21
    Joined: 11/5/2003
    From: cheyenne, WY, USA
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    You want to make shure you use at least a 1" sevo arm(mesured from outside hole to outside hole)good luck.

    (in reply to WacoOne)
           Post #: 129

    RE: H9 Corsair Reply to DrDeath - 12/9/2003 9:35:46 PM   
    DrDeath



    Posts: 1551
    Joined: 4/14/2003
    From: Bethesda, MD, USA
    Status: offline
    I have a Dubro heavy duty servo arm that I didn't use on my Patty that I can use for the retracts. Should work pretty well. I will start working on it after I put my kid to bed. Thanks for the good luck offerings! The plane comes together pretty easily.

    Lee

    (in reply to tophat)
           Post #: 130

    RE: H9 Corsair Reply to DrDeath - 12/12/2003 1:02:14 AM   
    DrDeath



    Posts: 1551
    Joined: 4/14/2003
    From: Bethesda, MD, USA
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    Gear is complete,

    There is one issue with my gear setup. My left gear setup is 2.5MM back from the front of the edge of the gear box setup. Not sure if this will make a big difference or not. The concern I have is that if I drill more holes into the base it will weaken the structure too much. Will know better after I fly it and land it.

    Lee

    (in reply to DrDeath)
           Post #: 131

    RE: H9 Corsair Reply to DrDeath - 12/12/2003 9:38:07 AM   
    LDM


     

    Posts: 5100
    Joined: 5/29/2003
    From: Denver, PA,
    Status: offline
    When its all said and done can someone alos fill me in ? I just got mine and I ma wondering if I shoudl pass on the mecahnical and go air ?

    (in reply to DrDeath)
           Post #: 132

    RE: H9 Corsair Reply to DrDeath - 12/13/2003 4:37:46 PM   
    Richard L.



    Posts: 8775
    Joined: 7/28/2002
    From: Redmond, WA, USA
    Status: offline
    If you have never flown a Corsair before, then the supplied mechanical retracts will be more forgiving since the strut coils will absorb energy on impact and allow the struts to flex back on a hard or fast landing. It might be a good idea to try the mechanical retracts first while trying to get use to the plane.

    _____________________________

    http://www.WarbirdObsession.com/
    Tamiya Panther, Tamiya King Tiger(3), Tamiya Tiger I, HL Tiger(3), HL Panzer III(2), HL Panther, HL Pershing, HL Bulldog, WSN T-34/85, HE Leopard 2A5

    (in reply to LDM)
           Post #: 133

    RE: H9 Corsair Reply to DrDeath - 12/13/2003 4:53:35 PM   
    Richard L.



    Posts: 8775
    Joined: 7/28/2002
    From: Redmond, WA, USA
    Status: offline
    I just provided Century Jet with a detailed diagram showing all necessary measurements for a set of rotating air retracts. According to CJ, the struts will be slightly longer than the ones for the Top Flite Corsair. I also requested that the air nipple closest to the retract housing be located directly on top of the air cylinder so it won't run into the rear of the gear mounting box. There is about 3/4" of clearance between the top of the wing and the top of the air cylinder. If you are planning on switching to CJ retracts, then you might want to wait for this set, which will be special made for the H9 Corsair.

    _____________________________

    http://www.WarbirdObsession.com/
    Tamiya Panther, Tamiya King Tiger(3), Tamiya Tiger I, HL Tiger(3), HL Panzer III(2), HL Panther, HL Pershing, HL Bulldog, WSN T-34/85, HE Leopard 2A5

    (in reply to LDM)
           Post #: 134

    RE: H9 Corsair Pilot - 12/14/2003 12:28:56 AM   
    LDJL



    Posts: 28
    Joined: 8/5/2003
    From: The Great State of, TX, USA
    Status: offline
    Folks:
    Section 8 step 1 of the directions state to remove the covering for the aileron servo extensions where you will pass the strings through the center wing. I have no holes below the covering? I'm ready to cut some but wanted to make sure I am not missing something. Any ideas? Run into the same?

    (in reply to Richard L.)
           Post #: 135

    RE: H9 Corsair Pilot - 12/14/2003 1:39:25 AM   
    WacoOne


     

    Posts: 169
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    From: Gulf Breeze, FL, USA
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    Yep. Mine was the same way. I had to cut some holes for the aileron leads. That's just one of several boo-boos in this arf. Another one, and I believe may be significant, is that the manual says to install the fin as far forward as possible in the slot. When I did that, the tailwheel/rudder strut came out 5/16" too far back. Therefore I had to slide the fin 5/16" back in the slot so the wire would be on the fin/rudder hinge line where it belongs. I don't know if this affects the flying, but I doubt it.
    Incidentally, for those who haven't done it yet, bend the wire to go into the rudder BEFORE you epoxy the fin in place. It's almost impossible to get a good bend in it after the fin is installed. Don't forget to run it through the support bearing before you bend it, though.

    Bill

    (in reply to LDJL)
           Post #: 136

    RE: H9 Corsair Pilot - 12/14/2003 1:54:32 AM   
    LDJL



    Posts: 28
    Joined: 8/5/2003
    From: The Great State of, TX, USA
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    Thanks..just wanted to make sure.
    By the way, he is absolutely correct on the tail wheel guide issue.

    I suggest putting the tail wheel wire through the bottom of the fuse, then installing the plastic guide over the wire, then make the bend. After that, you can epoxy the guide into the vert. stab and epoxy the stab into the fuse. Make sure you check measurements before you epoxy.

    < Message edited by LDJL -- 12/13/2003 7:56:39 PM >

    (in reply to WacoOne)
           Post #: 137

    RE: H9 Corsair Pilot - 12/14/2003 6:20:00 AM   
    Hellcat716



    Posts: 864
    Joined: 9/10/2003
    From: Las Vegas, NV, USA
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    WacoOne. I have had the same experience with my corsair as you have had and I am doing the same things that you have stated. Moving the fin back should have no effect on the flying characteristics. It is the only way to make it work and look right. I also had some binding on the bottom of the fuselege where the rudder servo attaches to the tailwheel, so I had to cut a little bit of the balsa down so the arm would move freely.

    (in reply to LDJL)
           Post #: 138

    14 - 12/14/2003 6:22:18 AM   
    Hellcat716



    Posts: 864
    Joined: 9/10/2003
    From: Las Vegas, NV, USA
    Status: online
    11

    < Message edited by Hellcat716 -- 12/14/2003 6:30:15 AM >

    (in reply to LDJL)