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RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/5/2003 6:55:34 PM   
DCLXVI



Posts: 191
Joined: 11/21/2002
From: Stockholm, SWEDEN
Status: offline 		Hi all,

Me and my cousin are getting a TXT-1 each...the thing I were wondering, how do we do to lock the diffs (w/o JBWeld, we are located in Sweden and I don't have a clue what JBWeld are)...

(in reply to Inv3ctiv3)
       Post #: 76

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/5/2003 6:59:40 PM   
69 GTO


 

Posts: 728
Joined: 9/21/2003
From: Royal Oak, MI, USA
Status: offline 		JB weld is simply a "cold weld" it is kinda like a glue that hardens like metal(this is the only thing i have found it to work on though to be honest) you can use JB weld or you can use silly putty i have heard to slow it down quit abit.....i duno maybe epoxy?

(in reply to DCLXVI)
       Post #: 77

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/5/2003 7:57:03 PM   
69 GTO


 

Posts: 728
Joined: 9/21/2003
From: Royal Oak, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Heres the "X" with the new bronco body.....it's gettin the crawler look now!.......since it's a old 70's style body i thought i'd give it a older style paint job! just started cuttin the tires...wow i cant believe how much of the stiffness is gone now with half the chevron cut off. I also cut the lexan roll bar out and made my own 7/32 bar/cage that sticks up a half inch above the body to protect it in a roll.

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(in reply to 69 GTO )
       Post #: 78

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/5/2003 8:58:04 PM   
Inv3ctiv3


 

Posts: 161
Joined: 7/7/2003
From: Santa Barbara, CA, USA
Status: offline 		NICE TRUCK !!!

(in reply to Inv3ctiv3)
       Post #: 79

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/5/2003 9:03:15 PM   
69 GTO


 

Posts: 728
Joined: 9/21/2003
From: Royal Oak, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Thanks Inv3!.....i'm 99.9% sure that i will be starting a CLOD when i get back from vaca. on the 18th so look out for clod pics......i have been lookin at pic's of the rcguy chassis that you have on clodtalk and am thinkin of useing that to build off of!

(in reply to Inv3ctiv3)
       Post #: 80

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/5/2003 9:29:29 PM   
Inv3ctiv3


 

Posts: 161
Joined: 7/7/2003
From: Santa Barbara, CA, USA
Status: offline 		Cool, I hear that is a good chassis. I got an EVX esc for sale if you need it for your clod

(in reply to Inv3ctiv3)
       Post #: 81

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/6/2003 1:21:36 AM   
Unruely


 

Posts: 34
Joined: 8/28/2003
From: Sandyville, WV, USA
Status: offline 		I believe I have the suspension set about right on my Clod, at least for now.. I have found if it is to stiff, it has a tendance to over turn.. I am running RC Guy's Gecko chassis on my truck. I love it, I also have a Clodzilla 4 that I am working on tricking out now. For crawling I think the Gecko is maybe the best commercially available chassis you can buy.

Martin

(in reply to Inv3ctiv3)
       Post #: 82

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/6/2003 3:29:24 AM   
69 GTO


 

Posts: 728
Joined: 9/21/2003
From: Royal Oak, MI, USA
Status: offline 		Hey unruely...how would you say the geko chassis compares to the clod4 chassis in articulation?

I will be gettin another clod to build into a crawler and i use to have the clod4 chassis and i have been lookin at the rcguy chassis and just wondered? Thanks!

(in reply to Unruely)
       Post #: 83

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/6/2003 4:22:53 AM   
Isphius



Posts: 716
Joined: 12/8/2002
From: LB, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		just make your own clod chassis. it may not look as nice, but its cheaper and you can say you made it. Its not very hard. You can use a few differnt materials too. lexan, graphite plate, aluminum, fiberglass, etc. be creative.

< Message edited by Isphius -- 10/6/2003 4:24:33 AM >

(in reply to 69 GTO )
       Post #: 84

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/6/2003 4:26:04 AM   
69 GTO


 

Posts: 728
Joined: 9/21/2003
From: Royal Oak, MI, USA
Status: offline 		I was considering that also. I am a welder by trade and was considering steel(alum is a ^%$# to weld) but i was also thinkin of making one out of copper so its light. Is copper tube chassis as strong?

(in reply to Isphius)
       Post #: 85

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/6/2003 6:19:23 AM   
Inv3ctiv3


 

Posts: 161
Joined: 7/7/2003
From: Santa Barbara, CA, USA
Status: offline 		I don't think tubers are as good for crawling but.... I dunno. A Z3 chassis would be easy to make, the MudCow is a custom built chassis.

(in reply to Inv3ctiv3)
       Post #: 86

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/6/2003 6:28:56 AM   
badboy2



Posts: 3074
Joined: 1/22/2003
From: edison, NJ, USA
Status: offline 		dirk welcome to rcu i knew it when i saw this rock crawling thread ur goin to get involve

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(in reply to Inv3ctiv3)
       Post #: 87

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/6/2003 12:32:55 PM   
Unruely


 

Posts: 34
Joined: 8/28/2003
From: Sandyville, WV, USA
Status: offline 		For a crawler, I like the Gecko chassis better. It seems to be more adjustable, by moving the lower shock mount locations. The Gecko can get more articulation than the Z4, it can get more than 90 degrees. For practical purposes the usable amount of articulation between the 2 is about the same, too much is not good. A tuber can make a good crawler, it just depends on the design. Brake line tubing makes a good tuber you can weld, solid music wire also works good. You can also silver solder brass tubing to make the frame.

Martin

(in reply to 69 GTO )
       Post #: 88

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/6/2003 4:01:16 PM   
Dirk Digler


 

Posts: 133
Joined: 9/30/2003
From: Black Forest, CO,
Status: offline 		I big word of advice for you guys locking up your TXT-1 diff. I haven't posted a pic yet of my TXT but will once it's back together. Anyway....make sure you do not get any jb weld on anything but the internal spider and side gears of the diff. If you get to much in there, it will inevitibly get into the splined area that the axle shafts go into. This will lock the axles into the diff, which is OK, unless you snap an axle shaft. You would then need to replace the axles and the diff, which is expensive. I did this and I luckily fixed the problem that I created. I heated the diff up to over 500 degrees and the JB Weld melted enough, so as to remove the axle shafts from the diff. I lucked out but certainly I do not want to do this everytime. Just be careful about how much and where you apply the JB Weld!

(in reply to Dirk Digler)
       Post #: 89

RE: Official Rock Crawling Thread - 10/6/2003 4:46:57 PM   
Dirk Digler


 

Posts: 133
Joined: 9/30/2003
From: Black Forest, CO,
Status: offline 		I just took off the rod ends and screwed some shock pistons on the threads. then I put the rod ends back on. You don't want to lengthen them too much. Just the width of the shock pistons on each end was plenty!

(in reply to 69 GTO )
       Post #: 90