RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics  
View related threads: (in this forum | in all forums)

Tower Hobbies
Enter up to 4 keywords or Tower stock numbers
Logged in as Guest



Users viewing this topic: none
  Printable Version
       



All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> S.P.A.D. Aircraft - Coroplast design >> RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics Page: <<   < prev  1 [2] 3 4 5 6   next >   >>  

Login
Message << Older Topic   Newer Topic >>
RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/15/2003 6:29:17 PM   
gr8johnson3



Posts: 272
Joined: 2/28/2003
From: MI
Status: offline 		i am sure you remember me emailing you several times asking for the plans. it was well worth the wait. i think they are very good. and we all appreciate your efforts deadeye.

(in reply to Deadeye)
       Post #: 26

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/15/2003 8:05:31 PM   
Deadeye



Posts: 3583
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: Conrad, MT, USA
Status: offline 		Let's start on the fuse!

Take your 1/4 aircraft ply (not lite-ply) and make a firewall. If you already have an engine and motor mount picked out, you can drill the holes for it at this time. It's easier to do it now than when it is on the rest of the frame. Use the thrust line measurement. The cennter of the prop should be on the thrust line. A 1/8 inch or so off shouldn't effect anything, as long as it is centered in the firewall side to side.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

The USA is not a free country anymore

(in reply to gr8johnson3)
       Post #: 27

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/15/2003 8:18:29 PM   
Deadeye



Posts: 3583
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: Conrad, MT, USA
Status: offline 		Now onto the front half of the wooden interior, the key to the Cor-Star's exceptional strength. The pics should explain themselves. Use epoxy on the LG and firewall block. Make two halves identical to each other. Constant width is 3 1/2".

After your epoxy sets up, you may opt to fibergalss the LG block. This may or may not be neccesary. I think as long as the block rests on the blasa, you will be fine. The coroplast will absorb a lot of shock from the landing gear area, because once the balsa frame is glued into the coroplast, it's got tremendous shear strength.

I have included a pic of the finished wooden interior. Ignore the rear pieces for now, as they won't glue in until after you have fitted the front interior half into the coroplast fuse area. Once this is established, you will have your angles set for the rear half of the wooden interior (more on that later).

(Don't worry about the wing blocks in the wooden interior at this time. We will cover that shortly)

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by Deadeye -- 10/19/2003 12:49:23 AM >

_____________________________

The USA is not a free country anymore

(in reply to Deadeye)
       Post #: 28

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/15/2003 8:35:53 PM   
Deadeye



Posts: 3583
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: Conrad, MT, USA
Status: offline 		Still with me? Now comes one of the hardest coroplast cuts yet. This is where plans or an existing Four-Star comes in handy. As luck would have it, the 4* is a straight shot from the front of the top of the fuse, clear to the tail. In other words, ignore the turtle deck, and it sits at 90 degrees to the firewall (0 degrees thrust). This also makes it a sinch to glue the tail and get 0 degrees on the tail feathers (which will be covered later).

Cut a piece of coro 50.5 inches X 15 inches. The flutes run in the 50.5" direction. This is slightly bigger than the actual fuse, but the rest will be trimmed away. Remember how the wood interior is 3 1/2 inches wide? Remember that. 4 mil coro is about 1/4 thick, so that width combined with the 3 1/2 inch wood makes the Cor-Star fuse 4 inches wide.

Find the center flute of the piece you just cut. It helps to mark each flute with a pen as you count, and marking each 5th flute in case you lose track. Bright lights are helpful with this. Once you have the center flute marked, draw a line the whole 50.5 inch length. This line is a reference for the rest of the fuse building, as well as for lining up the tail feathers. Use a permament marker if you want. This line will remain on the inside of the fuse, so mark away.

From the center of the center flute, measure out 1 3/4 inches on each side. Mark these lines with a marker as well. Make sure your frame will fit in the flutes that are marked. These lines represent the fold of the fuselage to form the sides. Hopefully you will end up on the edge of a flute, but different coro measures different. The centerline will be used for all subsequent measures.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by Deadeye -- 11/22/2003 7:34:15 AM >

_____________________________

The USA is not a free country anymore

(in reply to Deadeye)
       Post #: 29

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/15/2003 11:09:31 PM   
FlyBlueSkies


 

Posts: 81
Joined: 12/7/2002
From: Aurora, OH, USA
Status: offline 		Sorry Deadeye,

I replied to the wrong post. I meant to post to your previous posting!

===============================================

Hi Deadeye,

I'm not quite clear on a few things:

Could you provide a dimension, either from the front or back, as to where the landing gear block goes (in your first picture)?

Also, in your first picture it looks like the bottom, near the firewall, goes up. Is this right? If so, how much, etc.

Do you have another side view of the fuse frame as it sits on the coroplast? This might help me understand the first picture.

Anyway, this is really good! I have been thinking of purchasing the 4*60 and building it over the winter. But, I have left over coroplast from another SPAD, which did not work out. The fact that it's made out of 4mm really helps out, as I cannot find 2mm around here!

Thanks again!

< Message edited by FlyBlueSkies -- 10/15/2003 6:11:38 PM >

(in reply to Deadeye)
       Post #: 30

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/15/2003 11:16:56 PM   
novabill


 

Posts: 1773
Joined: 9/17/2003
From: Hudson, FL, USA
Status: offline 		Hey deadeye,

You are really doing a great job with this instructional. I have been checking all afternoon for updates. I too like the fact that all coro is 4mm. I have more than enough to complete this project and will start mine as soon as I can sneak it in on the wife.

I have an MDS .68 out of my first SPA3D. Do you think this will power the coro*?

William

(in reply to Deadeye)
       Post #: 31

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/16/2003 12:04:06 AM   
Deadeye



Posts: 3583
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: Conrad, MT, USA
Status: offline 		FlyBlueSkies, I did forget that dimension, it's 6 inches from the firewall. That does curve up slightly by the firewall as well, and you might want to wait until the fuse is cut out of coro before making the curve. It doesn't really matter much. This ain't rocket science!

Novabillss, yes that 68 should do just fine. My Saito 100 hovers it. My bushinged OS 60 flew my first one with authority, and it was 1 1/2 pounds heavier than the one you will be building!

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


< Message edited by Deadeye -- 11/12/2003 4:04:13 PM >

_____________________________

The USA is not a free country anymore

(in reply to novabill)
       Post #: 32

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/16/2003 12:36:23 PM   
gr8johnson3



Posts: 272
Joined: 2/28/2003
From: MI
Status: offline 		hey deadeye, do you have a side veiw of the wood structure for the forward section of fuse. before the coro is on. just so we can see the yardstick gussets on the firewall. thanks again.

(in reply to Deadeye)
       Post #: 33

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/17/2003 4:23:56 AM   
Deadeye



Posts: 3583
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: Conrad, MT, USA
Status: offline 		Yes, gr8, I do. Sorry I didn't get a chance to update today. A network crash kept me busy all day long at a client's workplace.

I have pictures that I will upload sometime tommorow. I'm catching myself up on the steps. I'm finishing up another one for a club member (I'm at the fuselage stage) and will be completing it in the next 5 or so days. I'm going to be posting everything here during that time, so as not to forget anything. It's just easier to do it this way, instead of relying on memory.

_____________________________

The USA is not a free country anymore

(in reply to gr8johnson3)
       Post #: 34

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/17/2003 11:40:29 AM   
gr8johnson3



Posts: 272
Joined: 2/28/2003
From: MI
Status: offline 		sounds gr8. looking forward to the next chapter in this page turner. i am sure it will be a popular read.

(in reply to novabill)
       Post #: 35

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/19/2003 12:46:05 AM   
Deadeye



Posts: 3583
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: Conrad, MT, USA
Status: offline 		Sorry for the wait guys. I hope I haven't left any of you in suspense!

Before you do this next step, build yourselves one of these. Really helps for removing one side of a flute. Like I mentioned earlier, it's easier to cut the fuse if you have access to a 4*, or plans for one. These following pics roughly show what to do.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize 		Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

The USA is not a free country anymore

(in reply to gr8johnson3)
       Post #: 36

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/19/2003 12:54:10 AM   
Deadeye



Posts: 3583
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: Conrad, MT, USA
Status: offline 		Once the fuse is cut, try wrapping it around your front half of the wooden frame. You can use the flutes to line up your firewall angle, which should be 90 degrees to the flutes. This gives you 0 degrees of incidence. Now you can take the 2 inch balsa stock, and get your angle for the rear half of the wooden interior. Use the whole 36", as it will be trimmed later. Take some 3 X 1 1/2" 1/8 lite ply or the like to make a gussett where the two balsa stock pieces butt together.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

The USA is not a free country anymore

(in reply to Deadeye)
       Post #: 37

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/19/2003 1:13:40 AM   
Deadeye



Posts: 3583
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: Conrad, MT, USA
Status: offline 		Now your talents will be challenged. You need to make a template of the wing's airfoil to cut the wing saddle. Use heavy paper, draw and cut. You want 0 degrees of incidence on the wing, so draw a centerline, and get your wing saddle position. The LE of the wing should be about 7 1/2" - 8" (depending on the weight of your engine) from the front of the firewall. If you don't get this cut perfect, have no fear. A few degrees of incidence can be corrected by shimming the motor mount.

_____________________________

The USA is not a free country anymore

(in reply to Deadeye)
       Post #: 38

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/19/2003 1:34:57 AM   
Deadeye



Posts: 3583
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: Conrad, MT, USA
Status: offline 		Plywood braces. These next two pieces serve as the landing gear block, and forward wing bolt reinforcement. They are made of 1/4 inch ply. Cut two pieces 3 X 6 1/2 inches.Lay them in the LG block, keeping the edges square where they meet. Trace your airfoil, and cut it out of the ply. Cut a 45 degree angle off right above the Fornt of it by the LG block, back. The following pic shows this gussett. Yours will not have a notch cut out above the airfoil like this one. The reason I did it like this on this one, was because I experimented by making my wing bolts farther apart than I originally stated. This left no room for the 1/4 ply reinforcement, so I cut around the wing blocks.

When you are happy with how everything fits, epoxy both sides to the inside of the fuse.

Attachments
Click to see fullsize image.
Click for fullsize


_____________________________

The USA is not a free country anymore

(in reply to Deadeye)
       Post #: 39

RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/19/2003 1:37:49 AM   
Deadeye



Posts: 3583
Joined: 7/16/2002
From: Conrad, MT, USA
Status: offline 		Forward wing blocks!

I used to pieces of basswood, each about 1" square or so. Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the center, running with the grain. Take them to your bandsaw, and cut a curve in one hole end. This curve should match the airfoil, so use the wing saddle for reference. Test fit them with 2 1/2 inch long 1/4 inch nylon bolts (assuming your