RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics  
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RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/22/2003 4:29:31 PM   
Deadeye



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Once again, that is as far as I am. The next step is to glue the tail feathers on. I will hopefully get a chance today to do that, but this thing called 'life' keeps interupting my airplane building.

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RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/22/2003 8:45:47 PM   
mikenlapaz



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Quick review of this thread and I will definitely be back to read in greater detail !!!!

I'm impressed...Keep up the good instructions and do not burn out.

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A nice piece of tail - 10/22/2003 8:53:10 PM   
Deadeye



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Lets get them tail feathers glued on!

Prepare the hor stab by woodpecking like the picture below shows. Th pic shows the bottom of the hor stab, where it contacts the fuse, but the upper side will need to be peckered the same way, for the turtledeck. Test fit all of your pieces for straightness before glueing. Make sure you measure from wingtip to tail tip on both sides, so as to line up your hor stab to the rest of the plane.

You may need to cut some of the balsa at the very rear tip of the fuse , so as the Vertical stab fits good.

The rudder is self explanatory. The rear part of the fuse needs a notch cut in it like the hor stab, for the rudder joiner to slide through. Use a fair amount of water spritz and poly glue to join these three pieces together. Start with the hor stab and vert stab. Glue wherever they meet, and glue the bottom of the hor stab where it will meet the fuse. Use tape to keep the vert stab at 90 degrees to the hor stab. Use clamps to hold the tail assembly in place.

Make suere your wing is bolted securely to the fuse when you glue the tail in. This helps to line things up. Make sure the wing is lined up good with the tail when looking from the front. You don't one side of the tail hanging lower than the other.

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RE: A nice piece of tail - 10/22/2003 8:55:45 PM   
Deadeye



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OOPS! Forgot the rudder woodpecker detail:

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RE: A nice piece of tail - 10/22/2003 9:03:53 PM   
Deadeye



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When the tail is dry, give it a twist. Flexes a bit, yes? Don't worry. The turtledeck and the piece that fits under the rear of the fuse will elimate EVERY SINGLE SIGN OF TWISTING. I guarantee this, or your money back! I pride myself on a stable stable STABLE aircraft. This cannot be accomplished with a twisty tail.

Feel free to mount your radio gear in anytime. The next step will be running the wire for the tail surfaces. I use 4/40 steel rod, threaded on on side. I use no sleeve, but I do employ a blasa brace halfway in the rear fuse to keep the wire from flexing. More on that when I get a chance to do it on mine.

Oh, and as far as a canopy goes, it's up to you. I did use the 4* canopy on all of mine (except the red and white one). The canopy will determine your particular turtledeck, so your best off to have one now. Dubro makes a nice WW2 canopy that is almost exactly the same as the 4* canopy.

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RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/22/2003 9:25:43 PM   
gr8johnson3



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well deadeye i think i speak for everyone when i say excellent stuff. it is well appreciated. you have done a great job with the plane and the plans. thank you.

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RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/22/2003 10:09:09 PM   
Deadeye



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mikenlapaz, don't worry. It's just finding the time to do it. I've got another one in the works already with a slight modification. It will be a bipe.

gr8, thanks for the compliments. Makes it all worthwhile. I'm looking forward to flight reports when you get yours done. How far along are you?

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RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/22/2003 10:53:42 PM   
upnflyin


 

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Thanks Deadeye I really appreciate the work you are putting in here. My wife considers herself a SPAD widow now. This one is keeping me busy and not in her way. I really like your methods of construction. Different but I like em.
Thanks and keep em coming.
Al

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RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/23/2003 1:43:58 PM   
cainebean


 

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Thanks for making this such an informative thread Deadeye. I have a 4*40 waiting to be covered but I doubt that will happen anytime soon because I want to build this one. I think this should be a tutorial on a Spad Site!

cainebean

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RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/23/2003 4:51:49 PM   
2thelmt



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Great instructions!

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RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/23/2003 6:49:50 PM   
gr8johnson3



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well actually i am embarrassed to say that i have not even started yet. you would think that with all the questions that i was keeping up with your plans. but i just like to get all the plans and get a coarse of action going. i have most of the supplies. just got my woodpecker off ebay. $5.00. awesome. a lhs is going out of business. well moving from the area. its all on sale. getting all my stuff. plus my basement is getting remodeled so all that stuff is in my garage. no room to build. i want to have a good work area and take my time. i think it will be a winter project. i wonder how it would fly with skis. i will find out how my spadet flies with them. i just finished the spadet. hasnt even flown yet.

< Message edited by gr8johnson3 -- 10/23/2003 6:51:26 PM >

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RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/25/2003 2:05:08 AM   
FlyBlueSkies


 

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I'm also waiting to see the plans before I build!

They look very easy! I can't wait to see the turtle deck!

As I mentioned before, I planned to build the Sig 4*60. But, after seeing these plans, I think I'll build the coro plast version!

Thanks Deadeye for your time! This is the plane I want to build!

Jeff

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RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/26/2003 12:56:07 AM   
torqmaster


 

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I have started to build mine. So far things are going good. The plans and pictures are awesome keep up the great work deadeye.


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RE: Cor-Star 60 Version 2.0 plans and pics - 10/26/2003 5:31:41 PM   
Deadeye



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I haven't posted in a few days because my digital camera took a dump. It will no longer write to the CF card. Good thing we are almost done! I think I can finish this thread with pictures of my first Cor-Star and some cheesy Paint drawings.

This shows my detail of the tail surfaces control rods. The exits for these rods are right behind the LE of the hor stab, and roughly an inch below the botoom of the hor stab. As mentioned before, use whatever you like, Gold-N-Rod, etc. If you use just 4-40 like I did, make sure you use something in the middle of the fuse to keep the wire from flexing. I used a balsa block, with two 2 inch plastic straws glued into it.

I also used regular Dubro control horns. Put these as close to the hinge point as you can. Your elevator control horn should have at least one hole drilled through the wood torque rod block. Be careful not to drill through the torque rod itself. Keep to one side or the other.

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