coloradoz
Posts: 177
Joined: 8/13/2002 From: evergreen,
CO, USA Status: offline
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I second that one with the crock pot - I had a YS60FR that was castor-stained, and castor-locked solid from years of sitting around, I tried every over-the-counter medication that I could to get my hands on to free this thing up and get it cleaned - Nothing, I mean nothing worked. I tried soaking, brushing, praying, etc - as was ready to throw this thing away. Until..... I read about the crock pot method. I soaked it for about 3 days, and not only was it loosened, it was cleaned and looked like new - just don't get it too hot - there are some reports out there of some minor discoloration of the Aluminum (may slightly darken according to some) on some brands of engines ( I think on K&B's - but someone will have to check me on this) - but if it is a YS, it will make it like new. In general, AF is very friendly with Aluminum and internal seals, as it was designed for continuous high temp operation with internal parts very similar to what we use to power our planes. I'm not so sure that the new chemicals would be very friendly to internal needle valve seals, etc. I used the 'green' stuff vis the 'pink' stuff. Actually, since we get a lot of sun here - and also since I am emotionally attached to my crock pot - I put my motor in an old coffee can, put the lid on it and let the sun cook it - it was at a relatively low temp compared to what a crock pot can do - around 100 degrees for most of the days on my deck - and it simply soaked in the solution at night. It came out spotless, absolutely spotless. The staining was gone after a day. There was an 'oil slick' on the top of the solution and the surface residue simply comes right off. The un-freezing of the motor took longer. Cook it in a well ventilated area - meaning don't do this indoors, in the wife's kitchen, etc - keep it away from pets, kids, etc - as the fumes are somewhat toxic, and also don't ever use the crock pot again for cooking - it will forever be your parts cleaning pot.
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