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Joined: 1/30/2002 From: San Jose, CA, Status: online
quote:
ORIGINAL: Brian Borland
Hi Gordon et all
Like most of you it seems I'm undecided regards a colour scheme. I did see a pic of parts of a Hunter being lifted off a truck and it had the balck and yellow bands ...like D Day stripes ... as used in the Suez Campaign.
Speaking of parts being lifted off a truck - this site has some cool pics - interesting to see how everything got moved from one museum location to the other:
"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored." - Aldous Huxley "He who establishes his argument by noise and command shows that his reason is weak." - Michel de Montaigne
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Joined: 1/11/2006 From: wetlands, US MINOR OUTLYING ISLANDS Status: offline
quote:
ORIGINAL: HenryRG
modellflieger
What an excellent setup! Where this you get the air connections? Presumably the electricals are from Maplin Electronics?
Hi Henry RG,
Thanks to you for the compliment and thank to modelfliger for posting. The pic of the Hunter conections comes from my website (see pervios links above). I built the model for a customer near Duxford, and it is based on the gate guard at RAF waterbeach just down the road from DF. He wanted a simple set up to avoid mistakes on the flying field. So the airlines are routed through BVM EZ-air conectors and I used mil-spec 9-pin conectors from my work (the day job).
It depends on the exhaust shape of your engine. If you can not get access to a backcopy of RCJI, I will scan it and put it up on the thread. Personally I regard Tom's work on this as definitive. Every time I have followed it, I have been rewarded with a wonderful performance.
Alternatively show me a photo of the engine or if it is standard like a p-80 just the name and I will try and work out the recommendations from the article.
On my Wasp (which he has not tested) and assuming it somewhere between an AJ66 and Wren54, the gap between the bell mouth and the engine duct will be between 40- 50mm! This will put the front bracket of the engine 10-15mm behind the front former of the engine mount. The jet jipe appears to fit to the main joining former of the rear fuselage. (The length of the jet pipeappears to be exactly correct when mounted there and the jet pipe can not be advanced into the front fuselage.) Hopefully moving the engine slightly forward will reduce the need the for ballast.
< Message edited by HenryRG -- 1/12/2006 3:02:54 AM >
Don't you hate it when someone steals your ideas ...before you've thought of them!
I'm not sure why Mick didn't consider something like this. I regret that without a tad more than a little butchery I'm stuck with my present set-up now.
Re the engine ...isn't it more an issue of the pipe in relation to the engine ...rather than the other way around?
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Joined: 1/30/2002 From: San Jose, CA, Status: online
This is what I did for the fairing at the TE of the wings.. this fairing is supposed be be attached to the wings, but I figured it would be more robust if attached to the fuz. I. made up a 1/32" ply guide to the desired shape, and glued that to the fuz ; added some wire reinforcements as a form of micro-rebar then piled in the aeropoxy which I then shaped to suit.
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"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored." - Aldous Huxley "He who establishes his argument by noise and command shows that his reason is weak." - Michel de Montaigne
Posts: 6864
Joined: 1/30/2002 From: San Jose, CA, Status: online
For the canopy retention, I considered numerous different approaches, and eventually chose this...
I made up a new baseplate out of 1/8" ply, shaped to match the bottom of the canopy and with about a 1/4" width throughout. The rear of the frame will eventually be cut open to clear the ejection set etc., but for now I've kept a cross-piece in place for rigidity. I then cut 6 small pieces of aluminium to make tabs as shown, drilled and shaped them and then cut matching slots in the frame to receive these tabs. A long wire pushrod will go through all of these tabs to lock the canopy in place ; to ugide the wire, nyrod inners are glued inside the fuselage and so the tabs must be glued in such a way as to leave the appropriate amount of space below the lip on the fuselage. That may sound confusing, but hopefully the pics will make it clear. The rods go all the way back to the engine bay, and will be operated from there. (This is basically the same kind of approach as used in the BVM Mig 15 fo rthe forward hatch retention).
Although it's not done yet, the engine-hatch end of the pushrods will feature a simple mechansim to ensure that the rods can not move backwards on their own and thereby free the canopy at an inopportune moment.
< Message edited by Gordon Mc -- 1/23/2006 3:33:50 AM >
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"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored." - Aldous Huxley "He who establishes his argument by noise and command shows that his reason is weak." - Michel de Montaigne
Posts: 6864
Joined: 1/30/2002 From: San Jose, CA, Status: online
For the elevator control rod, I was a little concerned about how well it would be retained with the method suggested in the plans, so I went a bit overborad ... the rod itself has its rear end embedded into the rib, so all I cared about now was how well it was retained forward of that. I simply made up some "staples" out of 1/16" music wire, and put 2 of these around the remaining length of the rod (matching holes drilled into the rib and the supporting wood behind it), then I soaked Plasti-Stic through the holes and finally put a gob of aeropoxy over the assembly.
The pic isn't very clear, but if you look closely you can just make out where the staples are.
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"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored." - Aldous Huxley "He who establishes his argument by noise and command shows that his reason is weak." - Michel de Montaigne
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Joined: 1/30/2002 From: San Jose, CA, Status: online
As well as retaining the canopy, I need a way of retaining my removable cockpit section. I'd already added a couple of removable braces to support the floor, so all I had to do was buld up a sectional floor as shown - the centre section attached to the seat etc will be removed frequently, and is retained by a tab at the front and I'll add another pushrod retainer that goes into the back of the ejection seat to anchor that whole section in place. The sides of the cockpit floor wil lalso be removable wih a little more work, being retained in place by screws from underneath (accessible via the nose-gear door).
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"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored." - Aldous Huxley "He who establishes his argument by noise and command shows that his reason is weak." - Michel de Montaigne
Posts: 6864
Joined: 1/30/2002 From: San Jose, CA, Status: online
Also added the rear section for the chute housing...
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"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored." - Aldous Huxley "He who establishes his argument by noise and command shows that his reason is weak." - Michel de Montaigne
When I fitted out the tail end I found the slots in the elevator actuator shaft were machined too large resulting in 5mm (3/16" slop in the elevators at neutral. (Both sides). I overcame the problem by fixing .002" shims, bent as a "U" shape, with Araldite 24 Hr Epoxy. The elevators are 100% slop free now. I'm happy with the method of securing the wire ...once again I used Araldite to back up the screws supplied. One has to take care with alignment ..one side to the other also.
I'm working on a simple method to secure the front end of the horizontal tail assembly to the fin. The locating dowls at the front are fine for locating but after tightening the screws to secure the tail assemblies in place, the elevator and tailplane can still be rocked fore and aft ...not a lot ....but it looks untidy. In reality the tailplane has a fairing at the junction on the fin.
I see you removed the fuselage glass at the gun cartridge and link blisters. Didn't think of that .... or maybe you're going to put some shooters in there!!!
Posts: 6864
Joined: 1/30/2002 From: San Jose, CA, Status: online
quote:
ORIGINAL: Brian Borland I see you removed the fuselage glass at the gun cartridge and link blisters. Didn't think of that .... or maybe you're going to put some shooters in there!!!
I did it to give me access to the inside of the sabrinas so that I could stick a finger in there and run a bead of Hysol around - just to make sure it was well attached.
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"Facts do not cease to exist because they are ignored." - Aldous Huxley "He who establishes his argument by noise and command shows that his reason is weak." - Michel de Montaigne
Posts: 6864
Joined: 1/30/2002 From: San Jose, CA, Status: online
Airbrake - per the kit, this was another of the clear plastic parts.. I elected to make one up from wood - the moving part being a couple of lite-ply formers, with a 1/16" balsa skin and then glassed. For hte hinge, I decided to make up some aluminium brackets and use a music wire hinge pin, which you may be able to make out in these pics.
For the actuator, I made up a horn from 3 laminations of G10, and cut a slit in the belly for the horn to go through. A small former was added to the fuselage inside, both to anchor the aluminium hinge tabs and to ensure that the fuelage held its shape properly for the best possible hinging action. Since the hinge pin is removable, but I obviously don't want it coming out unsolicited, I simply built a fixed fairing in such a way that the fairing captures the pin and the wheel collars that anchor the pin. The fairing can be removed from the fus via 3 small screws.
As usual, I lost some of the pics that I took, but these may be sufficient to explain what I did...
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> RC Jets >> RE: Building the Mick Reeves Hawker Hunter 
RE: Building the Mick Reeves Hawker Hunter - 
then piled in the aeropoxy which I then shaped to suit. 
slop in the elevators at neutral. (Both sides). I overcame the problem by fixing .002" shims, bent as a "U" shape, with Araldite 24 Hr Epoxy. The elevators are 100% slop free now. I'm happy with the method of securing the wire ...once again I used Araldite to back up the