Ziroli twin Beech  
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft >> Ziroli twin Beech
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Ziroli twin Beech - 11/3/2003 12:14:51 PM   
kevin mcgrath


 

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Im quite far into this project using a kit cutter kit.
Has anyone out there come up with a better alternative to the monkey motion linkage to the two rudders?
With all those bellcranks and connections between the servo and the rudders there just has to be excessive slop at the rudders by the time the servo motion gets there.
I have been contemplating burying two of those slim wing servos in the stab and connecting them directly to the rudders,but Im wary about every ounce I put in the tail end of this design....
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RE: <span class= - 11/3/2003 3:20:07 PM   
M Gill


 

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What is going to weigh less? The micro servos? Or the hardware and mounts associated with the bell cranks?

Mace Gill
The Aeroplane Works

(in reply to kevin mcgrath)
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RE: <span class= - 11/3/2003 4:08:46 PM   
flyboy---2002


 

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I did put the rudder servos in the stab and had no problems. I used JR 911 servos. The little extra weight is worth it.

(in reply to M Gill)
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RE: <span class= - 11/3/2003 4:18:27 PM   
kevin mcgrath


 

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Thanks gents........you just confirmed my thinking and Mace I think you are correct when one adds up the all up weight of a bellcrank system.Incidentally the kit Im building is one of yours and I must say the cutting and quality of the wood is very good......

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RE: <span class= - 11/3/2003 8:28:50 PM   
ketil


 

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I will also go fore the two servos fore the rudder.

Ketil

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RE: <span class= - 11/4/2003 1:41:37 PM   
M Gill


 

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Kevin,

I am glad to hear it. Let me know if you need anything.

Mace

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RE: <span class= - 11/4/2003 6:50:15 PM   
kevin mcgrath


 

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OK....you can tell me if the fin posts are tapered top and bottom,and if so do I taper the rudder post to match the fins?
Thanks.....

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RE: <span class= - 11/5/2003 5:27:26 PM   
warbirdav8r


 

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yes, the fin posts are tapered. taper the rudder to match it. sometimes i cut both pieces at once, [trailing edge of fin and leading edge of rudder ] makes the fit real easy.

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RE: <span class= - 11/6/2003 12:33:28 AM   
kevin mcgrath


 

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Thanks very much........I couldnt see that it would be any other way and I want to get the distinctive twin rudders of this design just right.
Is there a ply tab in the fin that is used to glue the fin to the stab?

Thanks........Kevin

(in reply to warbirdav8r)
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RE: <span class= - 11/7/2003 4:18:36 PM   
M Gill


 

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Opps, got to this one late! Thanks WarbirdAv8r.

Kevin, if you have any more questions, give me a call in the shop. That way I can have a look at the plans while you and I are on the phone.

(732)-356-8557

Mace Gill
The Aeroplane Works

(in reply to kevin mcgrath)
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RE: <span class= - 11/7/2003 4:51:50 PM   
kevin mcgrath


 

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Thanks Mace.I will call if I get stumped.......any feel for how much ballast needed for this design?

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RE: Ziroli twin Beech - 11/13/2007 10:07:32 PM   
silver_cloud_3


 

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can someone tell me where the CG on that Ziroli twin beech 18 is? just bought one from a guy, has one pouund on the nose; i read where someone has over 8 lbs, want to make sure before first (my) flight; thnx, ken

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RE: Ziroli twin Beech - 11/14/2007 8:08:08 AM   
2engsout


 

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Hi Guys, Jim Nicosia in Minn has built and flown five of these, and has given me some great advise on the Ziroli D-18. I bought one almost RTF and it already has the servos mounted in the rudders. Thats the BEST place for them Kevin. Use the thin JR ones. To compensate, mount the elevator servo on the ceiling inside the cabin as far towards the cg as you want. Preferably foward of the trailing edge. I am using two, 40" long .157 O.D. carbon fiber tubes for a pushrod to get mine up at the cg. Mount the tailwheel steering servo on the inside bottom of the fuse directly behind the trailing edge with cables back to the wheel. This gets as much of the servo weight as far foward as possible which lessens the amount of lead you will need to get the cg between 10 and 10,1/2" behind the leading edge measured from the fuse side. A more accurate way to mark that cg is to measure back 2.25" to 2.75" behind the flat center area that is between the leading edges. Transfer that mark to the fuse saddle and parallel a fuse former up the inside of the fuse to the ceiling of the cabin and stick a pin thru the balsa. Now mark the top of the fuse and thats where your plum bob will need to hang. Jim was not too specific where his cg was within that 1/2" window, but I will start with 2.5" behind the flat section for the 1st flight. I am also going to make a fiberglass cup from heavy cloth, glassed to the front fuse plate that will conform to the inside of the plastic nose piece that will fit right over it. This will get my ballast as far foward as possible. I'll pour small lead shot in there to get my cg and then glass over it to seal it. If you do the math, the tail to cg to ballast ratio is approx 2.4 to 1. For every ounce you save in the tail, you need 2.4 oz. less in the nose to get you to the cg. I also fly a Ziroli P-38 and the DC-3. Hope this helps. Rick

(in reply to silver_cloud_3)
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RE: Ziroli twin Beech - 3/8/2008 3:24:08 PM   
N215PB



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Working on my 3rd Beech 18 model. Has anyone used Monokote on one of these? I'm having a extra hard time this model with glassing and wonder for future 18's if Monokote has been done, never tried it on a large planked machine my self. I used some glass cloth that had some fold creses in it........big mistake. Bought 2 G38's for her, started to prime it and will be painting in next 2 weeks, now i'm kinda priming and wet sanding to get a good finish with BONDO and squadron putty.

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RE: Ziroli twin Beech - 3/10/2008 4:09:36 AM   
samparfitt


 

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Don't want to stir up a hornets nest but putting monokote on an IMAA legal scale plane is like buying an old house and wanting to paint the solid oak trim in the house: at the very least, a person should be horsewhiped for such sacrilege.

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