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Good First Planes - 11/10/2003 8:38:17 PM   
Matt Kirsch



Posts: 7009
Joined: 7/5/2002
From: Rochester, NY, USA
Status: offline 		Jason Beach suggested that I start a pinup thread on good trainer planes. Excellent idea, IMHO.

This thread is dedicated to those planes which make good first planes for newbie fliers, what you need to fly them, and what's needed to make them fly even better. I'm going to be adding content as we go along, so if you have any suggestions, please PM me. Post any questions regarding these setups right to the forum; that's what it's there for

Transmitters: One of the first choices you're going to need to make on many of these planes is what transmitter to buy. You can spend a little, or you can spend a mint. What's important is to buy a transmitter that's a good fit for your budget, and where you plan on going with the hobby in the future. A simple, inexpenisve 4-channel transmitter like the GWS "Dream Starter" will run you less than $40. A popular high-end choice for electric fliers is the Hitec Eclipse 7 with Spectra Module. This computer radio offers seven model memories, "shift select," and a synthesized frequency module, allowing you to fly any brand of receiver on any channel. On the high end of the spectrum are the Futaba 9C and JR 8103.

Chargers: Another important choice to make is with the charger. Many newbies want a charger that can be plugged in to an AC outlet. That should not be a priority. DC power supplies are inexpensive, and having a separate power supply means you don't have to lug extra weight to the field when you want to charge up between flights.

Important features to have on a charger are peak detection (automatically knows when the battery is charged), the capability of charging NiCd and NiMH batteries, and the ability to charge up to 8 cells, or more. Two inexpensive options are the Hitec CG340 and the GWS MC2002. Both retail at right around $40. It's also important to realize that these chargers normally do not come with the charge leads to connect your battery packs to the charger. There's nothing more frustrating than getting all the parts together only to find out that you can't charge the pack because you're missing the charge lead! Make note of the type of connector on your battery pack, and buy an extra "mate" for it so you can make up your own charge lead.
       Post #: 1

RE: Good First Planes - 11/10/2003 8:49:39 PM   
Matt Kirsch



Posts: 7009
Joined: 7/5/2002
From: Rochester, NY, USA
Status: offline 		First up in our cavalcade of excellent trainers is the GWS Slow Stick. This has to be the most-recommended first plane on online forums, for good reason. It's CHEAP ($35 for the kit with motor and prop). It's easy to build. It's easy to fly. It's tough. More people have learned to fly, on their own, with the GWS Slow Stick than I care to count.

The nice thing about GWS is that they provide flight packs for their planes. These flight packs include the receiver, electronic speed control, servos, and a battery. You only need to buy a transmitter, receiver crystal, battery charger, and charge lead to have a complete, ready-to-fly airplane.

Most local hobby shops carry the GWS line of airplanes. A sure sign is if they have Hangar 9 products in stock. This means they're a Horizon Hobby dealer, and can order the GWS Slow Stick and all the parts that you need. If they give you lip, send 'em to me

Besides a transmitter and charger (see above), here's what you need for the GWS Slow Stick:

1. GWS Slow Stick Kit: GWS1040
2. GWS Slow Stick Flight Pack: GWS2080 (for JR or Airtronics transmitters) or GWS2085 (for Hitec or Futaba transmitters)
3. GWS Pico Receiver Crystal: GWSXFRM**, where ** is the channel number of the transmitter you bought.

Hopups: The stock battery for the Slow Stick is a 6-cell, 7.2 Volt pack. A cheap and simple hopup for the Slow Stick is a 7 cell (8.4 Volt) or 8 cell (9.6 Volt) battery.

< Message edited by Matt Kirsch -- 11/11/2003 7:39:50 AM >

(in reply to Matt Kirsch)
       Post #: 2

RE: Good First Planes - 11/10/2003 9:04:06 PM   
Matt Kirsch



Posts: 7009
Joined: 7/5/2002
From: Rochester, NY, USA
Status: offline 		If you're looking for a plane for a younger pilot, or aren't looking to spend a lot of money, the Hobby Zone Firebird series seems to be another popular choice amongst forum cruisers. The advantage to the Firebirds are that they come with EVERYTHING you need to fly: transmitter, plane, battery, and charger.

Typically, these planes have rudder and throttle control, which teaches good habits. Throttle is what makes ANY plane go up and down, not elevator.

With the limited control, though, you may grow bored of the plane quickly after sorting out your right from your left in the air. When flying for the first few times, make sure you have lots and lots of open space around, and light winds. As you grow accustomed to the plane, you might find challenge in flying the plane in smaller areas, or in windier conditions. Some of the planes also have optional "Sonic Combat Modules" so you and a friend can have mock dogfights.

The current version of the Firebird series is the Firebird Commander. Hobby Zone also markets a similar plane called the Aerobird Challenger. It gives you elevator control in addition to rudder and throttle, and is a good step up from the Firebird.

Firebirds and Aerobirds are available at many hobby shops, and top out at about $150 for an Aerobird Challenger.

(in reply to Matt Kirsch)
       Post #: 3

RE: Good First Planes - 11/11/2003 1:06:45 PM   
Matt Kirsch



Posts: 7009
Joined: 7/5/2002
From: Rochester, NY, USA
Status: offline 		I'm going to try adding a new plane to this list each day. As always, pop me a PM if you have any input!

Today's addition is the Hitec SkyScooter Pro 2. If you decide this is the plane for you, make sure the one you buy is the Pro 2 version, with the 3-channel radio, gearbox, and large-diameter propeller. The original Pro version didn't have a gearbox, and did not fly well in its stock form. The original SkyScooter has a gearbox and big prop, but no throttle...

The SkyScooter Pro 2 is another preassembled, ready-to-fly rig like the Aerobird/Firebird planes. However, there is a major difference. The radio equipment is all standard micro gear, perfect for transfer over to another small plane.

Another major difference is the fact that this plane has ailerons. As I've said many times, there's nothing "harder" about flying a plane with ailerons versus flying a plane with a rudder. On a beginner plane like this one, you won't be able to tell the difference.

One major issue with the 'Scooter is the included charger. It's a cheap timer-controlled device that has been known to not charge the battery properly. You generally need to run the battery through two cycles to get it charged properly. If it were me buying the plane, I would pick up one of the two peak-detect chargers I mentioned earlier in this thread. Luckily, the included charger isn't worth much so you don't feel bad about essentially throwing it away.

An advantage to the 'Scooter is that it's made of some fairly flexible foam. I've flown my dad's into a tree, then crashed it straight into the ground with no damage. Even if you do manage to damage the plane, a little 5-minute epoxy is all it takes to put it back together.

Pretty much everything you need is included for about $169. It's not an item normally kept in stock at local hobby shops, though. Ask around; some may be able to order it for you. There are also many online sources of this plane, including many RCU sponsors.

Hopups: Again, a cheap and quick upgrade is a battery pack with an additional cell. I believe the stock Pro 2 version comes with a 7-cell pack. An 8th cell will give you a ~30% power boost.

People have been known to install a brushless motor in the plane. It makes the plane go like stink and gives it impressive aerobatic capabilities, but it costs more to upgrade to brushless than the plane cost in the first place...

Taping over the underside of the wing to change it from an undercambered airfoil to a flat-bottom cleans the plane up somewhat and makes it a bit faster and more aerobatic. It might be worth a try once you get the hang of flying.

Not really a hopup, but the plane comes as bare foam. You can paint it up with any color scheme you want using foam-safe paints such as Tamiya acrylics from a local hobby shop.

(in reply to Matt Kirsch)
       Post #: 4

RE: Good First Planes - 11/13/2003 7:54:04 PM   
Matt Kirsch



Posts: 7009
Joined: 7/5/2002
From: Rochester, NY, USA
Status: offline 		Maybe you're looking for something a little bigger? Jason Beach contributed this write-up on a simple foam-n-tape trainer from a JK Aerotech, the T-52:

The JK Aerotec T-52, it's all foam and flies more like a traditional .40 size trainer. It flies very solidly with no bad habbits, and is very durable for those less than perfect landings.
I used a geared Mag Mayhem setup with a 6 cell sub-C batt pack. Though not a power house, it was a good flyer and wasn't flying on the edge of a stall all the time. I'd suggest a geared 400 with an 8cell KAN 1050 or similar. I believe the weight savings with this setup would make the plane fly even better.
Editor's note: I believe the gear ratio on the Speed 400 motor is 3:1 and the propeller size is 10x6.

For $35 it's a good plane.
You can buy just the kit, or they offer a combo deal with battery pack, ESC, motor, prop, and pushrods. I would recomend that you put a gearbox on this rather than stick with direct drive.

Other things you'll need (other than radio and charger):

1. Reciever. I would recomend something a bit more dependable than the GWS 4ch rx. This is a fairly large parkflyer and you'll use a bit more room.
Editor's note: A popular choice for larger planes is the Hitec 555 receiver, the Hitec HFS-04MG, or the Hitec Electron. The GWS receivers have a fairly limited range, and are best used in small park fliers that won't be flown very far away.

2. 2 Servo's. I used GWS Picco's in mine, but would suggest something a bit bigger, I stripped a couple of the Picco's in crashes that I think larger servos would have held up fine. This plane has no problem packing the extra weight.
Editor's note: A poular choice here are Hitec HS-81 micro servos. Don't let the term "micro" confuse you. Compared to the tiny park flier servos you may be familiar with, they're quite large. Still, they're about half the size of a standard servo, and about an ounce lighter.

3. Landing gear if you want it. This is personal preference. This plane belly lands easily.

4. A speed control. You will want one with at least a 15 Amp continuous capacity, if not 20 Amps.

5. Motor & gearbox. The recommended setup is a 6V Speed 400 motor. Don't get confused by the 6V. It does not indicate how many Volts the motor can handle for electric flight. People routinely run 9.6 Volts through these motors, and they hold up for 50-100 flights. There are many gearboxes available that will give you ratios near 3:1.

6. Battery. Definitely run 8 cells. You will not be happy otherwise. A pack made from one of the popular 2/3A cells is perfect. Don't worry about all these letters and numbers, 2/3A is just the size of the cell. It's the same diameter as an A cell, but only 2/3 as long. An A cell is slightly bigger than a AA cell, just like a AA cell is slightly bigger than a AAA cell. One popular choice for 2/3A cells is the "KAN1050." Again, don't worry, that's just the brand/model of the cell. It's no different than saying "Mitsubishi Zero."

Hopups:
When you get the hang of flying this plane, you can go to the next level easily by adding ailerons.
Editor's note: Adding ailerons is pretty simple. The ailerons can be simple flat strips of balsa, taped to the wing with the same packing tape you used to cover it, and the servo can be embedded in the top center section of the wing.

Modify the wing to take the dehidral out. This will help with aerobatics.

Other hopups include motor upgrades, wing mods, lightening, etc.

(in reply to Matt Kirsch)
       Post #: 5

RE: Good First Planes - 11/19/2003 1:33:30 PM   
Matt Kirsch



Posts: 7009
Joined: 7/5/2002
From: Rochester, NY, USA
Status: offline 		The next couple of planes I'm going to list here are more traditional trainer-type planes, and it's highly recommended that if you decide to go this route, you find yourself an experienced instructor to help you. These aren't park fliers, either, so you'll need to find a large field of several acres to fly these in. You will probably want to seek out a local R/C flying club for both the instructor and the field.

On to the plane:

About a year ago, Hobbico released a new electric trainer, called the Superstar EP, EP for electric power, of course. It comes in two versions:

1. An ARF, almost ready to fly version. The major building is all complete, and the plane is sanded and covered. Some minor assembly is required, plus you need to purchase and install the radio equipment yourself.
2. An RTF, ready to fly version. The motor, speed control, and radio all come installed in the plane. A typical first-timer should be able to assemble the plane in about an hour, while an expert could do it in the advertised 20 minutes.

Power for the Superstar EP comes from a typical 7 cell "flat" R/C car battery pack, which direct-drives the prop through an inexpensive 600-style "can" motor. The motor is the same as the "540" motors you used to get with the old Tamiya R/C buggies. It's a very simple system that reportedly works surprisingly well, considering the "slap a car motor and a car pack in a .40-size plane and try to fly it" method nearly ruined the chances of electric flight several years ago.

It works now because the plane's airframe is much lighter than a glow plane of similar size, and it has lots of wing area. Back then, manufacturers didn't understand that because electric power is so smooth, you didn't need to build the planes to withstand the vibration of a glow engine.

It's a 3-channel plane, with rudder, elevator, and throttle. From the looks of the relatively small amount of dihedral, it's designed such that a beginner can't get into too much trouble. Rudder planes with lots of dihedral, like a Great Planes PT-40 with the "A" wing (has a total of 8" of dihedral!!), will roll as if they have ailerons!

What you need:

The ARF version requires a radio, speed control, and a battery charger. An on/off switch is included with the ARF, but a speed control is so much nicer to have. You'll want a speed control, ESC, that's rated for at least 30 Amps. The Great Planes C-30 and C-50 are nice because they come pre-wired with a Tamiya style connector to match the battery. Motor, propeller, and battery are all included with the package.

Standard radio gear should fit, but I say should because I haven't seen the plane up close. In the world of electric flight, lighter is better, so micro servos like the Hitec HS-81 and a small receiver like the Hitec Electron or 555 will save you a few ounces. Do NOT use "Sub-micro" or "Pico" gear. This plane is large enough that you can fly it at over 1000 feet away, out of range of most tiny receivers, and it's too heavy for the light and fragile gears on those tiny servos. If you're buying a complete radio, the Hitec Flash 5X "glider" package has exactly what you need for this plane, and the 5X is an excellent middle-of-the-road computer transmitter that will last you a long time.

The RTF version comes with almost everything. All you need is a good peak-detect charger, and 8 AA alkaline batteries.

Hopups:

Right off the bat, I have to say, "GEARBOX!" While the direct drive system is adequate, a geared system will give you increased thrust and better efficiency. Great Planes markets an inexpensive gearbox for this motor, the GD600. With the included 2.5:1 gear ratio, the motor can spin a 12x8 prop. Since prop clearance might be an issue with such a large diameter, a Master Airscrew folding prop is a wise choice.

The nice thing about a plane powered by a car motor is the fact that you can improve the plane's performnace by using modified car motors. For example, you can use a Kyosho Endoplasma motor, a 10-toothed pinion to increase the gear ratio to 4.6:1, and a 10-cell pack to turn the plane into a real performer. Even with the stock battery, this setup will outperform the stock setup, using less energy. Most people elect to simply replace the stock motor with a Kyosho Magnetic Mayhem, use the same GD600 gearbox, and an 11x7 propeller.

< Message edited by Matt Kirsch -- 11/19/2003 8:34:30 AM >

(in reply to Matt Kirsch)
       Post #: 6

RE: Good First Planes - 11/24/2003 2:11:02 PM   
Matt Kirsch



Posts: 7009
Joined: 7/5/2002
From: Rochester, NY, USA
Status: offline 		If that "inner craftsman" in you is screaming for an outlet, how about a kit? A kit is simply a box of precut parts, sheets, and sticks that you glue together into an airplane. Kits allow you the most flexibility in that they don't include much, if any accessories outside the wood, and maybe some basic hardware.

Be warned: Kits require assembly, sometimes lots of it. If you're looking to be flying by this weekend, you might want to look at something else. There are many "extras" to buy that don't come with the kit, like wheels, covering, and many times even the pushrods and other assorted hardware. That said, building a kit can be a lot of fun and one of the most gratifying experiences in the hobby is seeing a plane that you built YOURSELF take flight for the first time.

One such kit is the Great Planes PT-Electric. The Great Planes PT, which stands for Perfect Trainer, series has been the trainer of choice for countless new pilots for decades now. It's an oldie, but a goodie.

This electric version of the PT is an earlier electric design, based on the R/C buggy motors and 6-cell car packs available at the time. Not the most efficient, or the best system for this plane, but adequate, especially if budget is a concern.

Here's what you'll need:
1. A large, flat building surface that you can insert pins into. You'll be pinning the parts down to hold them in place while you glue. A piece of drywall on a flat table, or an acoustic ceiling tile make good "pin boards."
2. Adhesives. An ounce each of thin and medium CA, and a tube 30-minute epoxy should be enough to build this plane. It's relatively simple to build and not very large.
3. An X-Acto knife and plenty of blades. Keeping the blade razor SHARP is essential, especially when cutting covering.
4. Sandpaper and sanding blocks.
5. Covering iron. I tried to cover my first plane with mom's clothes iron... Believe me, a $15 covering iron is a boon to the industry Your first covering job won't be perfect, but don't worry about it.
6. Other assorted tools, hex key wrenches, screwdrivers, etc..
7. Tower Hobbies has a pretty complete list of accessories needed to complete this plane: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0006p?&T=1&I=GPMA0110
8. Two rolls of covering. You could probably cover it with one, but you'll probably make mistakes and a one-color plane is BO-RING! Two colors will also help you differentiate between top and bottom while the plane's flying.
9. Radio gear. See the top of this thread for info on choosing a transmitter. The onboard gear for this plane CAN be full-size, but lighter is better. An ounce here and there will make a heck of a difference. I like HS-81 servos and the Hitec Electron receiver for this plane, but any brand of "Micro" servo, and any "dual conversion" receiver will do fine. GWS "Pico" gear won't be adequate.
10. Battery and charger. Check my recommendations on chargers at the top of this thread. They recommend a 7-cell battery pack for this plane. Any 7-cell, Sub-C pack will do, even inexpensive car battery packs. You can get up to 3300mAh in this size pack depending on what cells you get, but the 1900mAh Great Planes pack will do just fine.

I'm sure I'm forgetting something, so let me know if I did.

Hopups:
This plane is just begging for hopups. Built as stock, the plane will fly for 6-7 minutes, will climb so-so, and won't be able to loop from level flight. Simply adding a 2:1 gearbox and a 10x7 prop to the system will improve things greatly. At that point you can upgrade to an 8-cell pack and gain even more power. If you're willing to bend longer legs for the landing gear, a 3:1 gearbox and 12x8 propeller is in order. Switch the stock motor out for a Kyosho Magnetic Mayhem, even better. Go to a 10-cell pack.... Yeeeeee-haaaaw!

You can get these gear ratios, or ones close to that, using the inexpensive Great Planes GD600 gearbox, and the optional pinions they sell for the gearbox. The plane will look a little odd if you just bolt the gearbox to the motor, so you might want to relocate the motor mount lower and further to the rear as you build, if you intend to put the gearbox on right off the bat.

(in reply to Matt Kirsch)
       Post #: 7

RE: Good First Planes - 12/9/2003 7:54:59 PM   
Matt Kirsch



Posts: 7009
Joined: 7/5/2002
From: Rochester, NY, USA
Status: offline 		Here's a contribution from Jason Beach:

Another kit plane that's an excellent first plane IMO is the Duskstik from Mountain Models.
http://www.mountainmodels.com/duskstik.php

This is a kit made up of balsa, Carbon Fiber, and light ply. It's easy to build, and is an excellent flyer.
With balsa main wing and tail, and a carbon fiber fuse, it is surprisingly light and durable.
It can be built as a standard 42" wing or an extended 49"wing. Weather you want a standard or extended wing, you can build either as a regular dehidral wing, or as a polydehidral wing.
You can build the wing to suit how you want the plane to fly. The standard dehidral wing will give you better wind penetration, and the extended polydehidral wing will give you better low speed characteristics, but is more sensative to light winds.
The Duskstik comes with clear covering. This covering can be painted to suit the pilots wishes with regular spray paint, or model paint such as Testors. Just keep the paint as thin as possible to keep the weight down. If you want colored covering, I suggest using Solite. It's about as light as it gets, and with practice can be fairly easy to work with.

The Duskstik is a very forgiving flyer. Stalls are a non event with the nose mushing down to recover. The plane is very stable, and flies very slowly giving the pilot lots of time to plan turns or react to mistakes. Because of it's light flying weight (7-12oz) the plane resists damage surprisingly well. I have cartwheeled mine several times with little to no damage. If you do nose it in, not to worry. The motor mount is balsa and designed to break and save the motor/gearbox, and most importantly the prop shaft. Extra mounts are provided in the kit, so it's a 5 minute job to get the plane back in the air.

The Duskstik kit includes everything needed to complete the airframe. Pushrods, mounts, landing gear, and covering are all included.
Here's what you'll need to complete the plane.

Transmiter and charger (see first post in thread)

Motor- GWS IPS-A or GWS EPS100C-A work well

ESC- 5amp ESC

Servos- The servo mount was designed to use GWS Picco servos, but some people have modified it to fit Hitec HS-55's. You'll need 2 servos.

Reciever- Just about any small reciever will work on this plane. Berg 4 or 5, GWS 4ch, Hitec 555, etc

Battery- Good batterys for this plane are 7 or 8 cell 720mah nimh or 370mah nimh packs, or you can save weight and increase flight time with a 2cell 700mah Li-poly pack.

The good news is that the Duskstik is also offered in a package with motor, ESC, servos, and batt pack for $125, which is cheaper than buying everything individually. The only thing that's not in the package (other than the transmitter and charger) is a reciever.

Hopups.
This is also a plane that can grow with you, in stock form, you can turn up your elevator and rudder throws for good loops rudder rolls, stall turns, etc. Just don't expect this plane to do 3D. Popular hopups for this plane are motor and battery changes. With a small brushless and Li-poly batts, you can save weight and increase power and flight time.

The Duskstik also makes an excellent platform for photography. Though it will pack a small camera such as a Pencam with a GWS EPS100 powering it, a brushless power system will pack even better.

I have also straightened the wing and added ailerons to it, but this is a time consuming project that involved reinforcement where the wing halves met and some other bracing in high stress parts of the wing.

(in reply to Matt Kirsch)
       Post #: 8

RE: Good First Planes - 2/6/2004 8:07:05 PM   
Matt Kirsch



Posts: 7009
Joined: 7/5/2002
From: Rochester, NY, USA
Status: offline 		You've probably noticed that I haven't updated this thread in quite a while. I had originally intended to update the thread more frequently, even daily. Unfortunately, I ran out of planes that I had personal experience with to review

There are many more great first planes out there, but a guy's only got so much time, so much money, and so much desire to fly "beginner" planes... If you've helped someone learn to fly on an airplane, tell us about it! Send me a PM with a write-up of the plane. Make sure you include exactly what you used to fly it, and any modifications you made to the plane to improve its durability or flyability.

The following review was submitted by Mikerjf:

Suggested that my club buy an electric trainer to keep in the lockbox at the field. Plane had to

meet the following criteria:

1- Easy to fly, responsive, durable, easy to repair and affordable.

2- Capable of using standard radio gear.

3- Flyable in wind better than our average 5-10mph.

4- Fairly large with a removeable wing.

The Multiplex Teddy fit the bill nicely and as I've got a lot of experience with my Nieces I went to order one and found that the Teddy's been replaced by the Easy Star.The Multiplex Easy Star's slightly larger than the Teddy (54inch span), made from Elapor (EPP) foam, has a two piece removeable wing with a fiberglass spar, it's 3 channel and can be setup to use anything from micro to standard gear and it's powered with a direct drive 6v speed 400 (pusher). It also looks alot swoopier than the Teddy and most importantly, they didn't call it the Teddy II.
I ordered the kit which comes with the motor and prop for $64. The RTF version is $187 and comes with a Hitec 3 channel AM radio and Multiplex gear. Assembling the kit only takes an hour or two. The airframe consists of 9 pieces that key together and fit up nicely. The Elapor foam requires CA for assembly so it goes fast. The other 18 pieces are the control cables/housings, canopy and locks and the motor and prop. Multiplex has the motor and servo's CA'd in, this plane will see a lot of use, so I chose to make them removeable. Glueing a Speed 400 motor plate to the face of the motor housing and cutting a tape on hatch in the motor cowling took care of the motor. Two pieces of 1/8 lite ply glued into the servo cutouts allow the servo's to be screwed in. The plane is setup with a Hitec 4 channel transmitter, standard Hitec receiver, GWS 15 amp ESC, two Bluebird mini servo's and an 8 cell 1600mah nimh (AA) pack. Made a styrofoam filler block that fits tightly into the canopy (and secures the receiver in the nose). The battery pack sits on the foam, centered in the canopy opening, putting the CG on the money. All up weights around 25 ounces.
First flight was on a cold and windy (~12mph G20) day and it required very little trimming. Our field is fairly confined and I found the rudder a little too unresponsive for a tight area in these conditions. Moving the clevis to the innermost hole on the control horn solved that problem and now it's actually a little too much. I would suggest using the innermost location and selecting a hole in the servo arm that gets 50% more throw than Multiplex reccommends for the first flight. Also, put the clevises in the control horns before glueing the control horns to the control surfaces unless you enjoy assembling very small parts in very akward places. Subsequent flights showed that the plane has no bad habits. At full throttle it's fairly fast with the 8 cell pack, loops are no problem and with a load of down elevator it can fly inverted, rolls are very sloppy but can be done with enough altitude and the plane specks out pretty quick. At half throttle it maintains altitude and provides around 20 minutes of flying on the Buddy Box. Power off is very controllable and the plane slows to a walk when landing. I spend most of my time with 3D stuff (electric and glow), but it's always a pleasure to fly something this relaxing that flies so well. If you're looking for a keeper, this is it.

(in reply to Matt Kirsch)
       Post #: 9

RE: Good First Planes - 3/3/2005 2:05:43 PM