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The "Corsair Blues" Archived - 5/9/2002 10:42:03 PM   
Skyflying1



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From: San Antonio, TX, USA
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I have archived a collection from the former rconline. It has a lot of good flying information on power torque and take-offs. I thought I'd make it an official thread here on rcuniverse.com / Happy reading!

Topic:Corsair "blues"

Notwithstanding all the great advice I read and received, and enough stick time on my P-47 to know better - on the maiden flight I didn't let the T/F GE Corsair build up enough speed on the runway before going full throttle. So she jumped into the air (surprised the heck out of me) went up about 10-15 feet while banking to the left. I had no control, couldn't straighten the wing and she plowed into the ground. Total flight time 10 seconds (maybe). I suppose I'm lucky (?) because "all" I have to do is buy a new cowling and rebuild the fuse from the wing forward. Everything else looks to be in good shape (needless to say my little Navy pilot friend is shaken up and not speaking to me at the moment). I believe they call that a snap - let me know if you call it something else besides stupid pilot. P.S. to Jack D. - should've reread your emails before going to the field.

< Message edited by Skyflying1 -- Jul 20 2002 3:48AM >
       Post #: 1

Cont. - 5/9/2002 10:42:50 PM   
Skyflying1



Posts: 318
Joined: 2/27/2002
From: San Antonio, TX, USA
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Hi First I would guess, if you have retracts I would CG the plane with the LG retracted while holding the plane inverted. It sounds like it may have been tail heavy if it wanted to rotate early. Figuring you have P-47 time and know not to keep the elevator up to long or too much.?? Steve

Maybe...or it could just be out of trim. I make a point to always set the elevator with a slight bit of down trim for the first flight. Better to have to pull it off and hold back pressure than have it jump off the ground too early. Good luck with the rebuild, Chad Veich.

The CG was checked with the gear retracted and it balanced with only a couple ounces in the nose. The 91 Surpass is heavy and there's not much weight needed in my P-47 either. I suppose it's posible it was out of trim (although it didn't look it), that would answer why it climbed out so much on its own. I'll adjust with some down trim as suggested. Thanks for the advise.

Sorry to hear about your Corsair Tbolt. That is exactly the same thing I had happen to the first one I built. It lasted about 10 seconds and when it hit it destroyed the left wing and the fuselage had a large crack in it just above the wing saddle. It took out the prop and the motor mount too. I had a friend take a video of the flight and I watched it a hundred times and as the plane lifted it immediately started the "death roll". Too much power and not enough airspeed. You could see the full right aileron and right rudder deflection trying to bring it back but the left wing had completely stalled and at that altitude it is unrecoverable. This sinerio has happened to more Top Flight Corsairs than you can imagine and it killed many young pilots in the real ones. The chapter on this very subject in the real Corsair flight manual has skull and cross bones at the top and bottom of all the pages. When you get it rebuilt go back and reread the email I sent and it will make all the effort worthwhile. You can't leave a Corsair on the rebuild bench. It needs to fly and it will fly very well once you get that take off routine down. The Corsair will keep you honest but it will also reward you with absolutely beautiful flight as well. Hope to hear you have it back in the air soon.

(in reply to Skyflying1)
       Post #: 2

Cont. - 5/9/2002 10:43:34 PM   
Skyflying1



Posts: 318
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From: San Antonio, TX, USA
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Hehe...I think this must be a right of passage into F4U pilothood, this w/e I took my YS 120 Top Flite hog out to the field, I experienced exactly the same thing! Plane jumped off of the ground so fast it surprised me, and proceeded to death roll into the ground, with identical damage, no damage to wing and empenage, but the cowl, and firewall, and first three formers are toast, have to rebuild the front end. I even had someone video tape mine (we should get together and compare footage!! lol). Anyway, I was reading your post, and it was as if I had posted my weekend experience!!! Oh, and I wouldn't mind a copy of that email too Jack!! Anyway, back to the rebuild!!!

I have had exactly the same problem with the Top Flite P-51. It lifted off early and immediatley banked left, despite full right rudder and aileron. Jumped up quick. Happened 4 times, each time with a little more damage than the last, tho not nearly as much as the F4Us reported here. Now I have a repair to make to the gear/wing. Can I assume I (we) should keep these TF fighters on the ground longer in order to build up more speed before we let them rotate?

I've spent the last few years flying as many warbirds I could get my hands on. The number one thing we as RC pilots must realize is we're flying smaller versions on the real (read fullsize) thing. Most of our smaller versions end up being heavy do to the addition of retracts, bombs, flaps and other scale options. The only way you can succesfully fly scale warbirds is to fly them just as the full scale plane was flown. If you yanked a Corsair or any other warbird off the runway before gaining flying speed, the same thing would happen as has happened with your models. One trick of the warbird trade is to set your model up with one or two clicks of down trim on the elevator. This helps force the mains to stay attached to the runway. Wether you want to fly with the extra down trim or apply it before takeoff and trim out after take off is of personal prefrence. The trick is to fly those warbirs as if it were fullsize. Keep them on the ground until your sure it's at fliing speed. P.S. One of my favorite tricks is to run the length of a paved runway at full speed with the tail high and the mains humming on the asphalt.

"P.S. One of my favorite tricks is to run the length of a paved runway at full speed with the tail high and the mains humming on the asphalt. What's Asphalt??? When running full throttle down the runway don't the grass roots rip out the retracts? Tom

First off guys let me just say that I too experienced the SNAP ON TAKEOFF and it severly damaged the left wing and the fuselage of my pride and joy. I went on a mission to find out what had happened and I also had a video of the very short flight to analyze. I watched the video a hundred times and it was very obvious with the full right deflection of the rudder and the full right aileron deflection that I was doing what a pilot would normally do to correct the attutude the plane had assumed. The flight controls were useless because the left wing had stalled. I spent the next month while I was rebuilding the Corsair reading everything I could get my hands on about flying a Corsair and I was also able to talk to three full scale pilots that had been checked out in the Corsair and it was amazing what they said because each of them said exactly the same thing. I got a copy of the full size pilots flight manual from one of the three pilots and this is what I learned. More US Corsair pilots were killed by pilot induced errors than were claimed as casualties of war in WWII and Korea combined. In the manual the pages covering Takeoff have skulls and cross bones on them. This was one area that the flight manual clearly stated if you make a mistake here you won't live to tell about it and after seeing so many models of the Corsair do just what we are talking about I put together a routine that needs to become routine every time you fly your bentwing bird. I have not missed a single takeoff sence I started doing this and I'm telling you all this to hopefully prevent even more beautiful airplanes meeting their demise ten seconds after they start their takeoff roll. Here we go. Before you start your engine check all of the flight surfaces and make sure everything moves in the right direction. I don't care if you double checked it right before you came to the field check it again. Many pilots today use a single transmitter for multiple airplanes (Me included) and you just have to check that you have selected the right plane and that all the surfaces are working correctly. Make sure you do not have any UP trim dialed into the elevators. Start the engine and warm it up. Let the engine get to normal operating temp and then run it up to full throttle several times and make sure the transition is right. I recommend lifting the model and pointing the nose of the model straight up and make sure it doesn't go lean. A deadstick warbird is a handful any way you look at it and if you spend some time here it should not happen. Taxi out to the active runway and turn and call your takeoff. I personally prefer to not use flaps on takeoff so I just start to ease in the throttle. The plane should start to roll immediately and as it starts to roll the tail will come up naturally. Let it come up but do not add up elevator. The torque is comming up as you SLOWLY advance the throttle and this is your enemy. It's going to induce a yaw to the left. Correct with enough right rudder to keep the model rolling straight down the runway and as the airspeed builds you will need less and less right rudder. After a good long run on the mains and good speed build up you should be still slowly advancing the throttle. As the plane lifts off LET IT FLY and do not attempt any kind of turn. You should be just getting to full throttle. Keep the wings level and let it climb out. If you have retracts throw the switch and put the gear away and then start your first turn to down wind. I find that I seldom need full throttle to fly my warbirds in a scale fashion so Back down the power until you are comfortable and get your plane trimmed and then enjoy the reason you spent months putting this thing together. Fly a few circuits and just feel the plane out. It should respond to the ailerons anŹ€Pć|

(in reply to Skyflying1)
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Cont. - 5/9/2002 10:44:19 PM   
Skyflying1



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From: San Antonio, TX, USA
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That's great Jack, I think, personally, that I need to repeat this to myself at least a thousand times!!! You are so right, and while I'm rebuilding the ole P&J, I think I'll print your missive, and put it right above my building board!!! "Thou shalt not allow the aircraft to take off before it's time!!!". Like a fine wine, or anything else, timing is everything. Like everyone else here, I believe we've all heard that we should let the F4U have a nice long run to build up the airspeed before we allow it to take to it's natural environment, but reading and thinking about something is one thing actually doing it is another. hehe, I was totally surprised that it tried to lift off early, and I let it....MY MISTAKE!!! But we learn from our mistakes, and now, by God, I'll not let that hog loose until I say she's ready!! hehe, Seriously, after having done it once, and experiencing the roll of death, I'll not let her loose these earthly bounds until I say so!!!

Corsair nuts, I just had to put my 2$ in. I have a Ziroli Corsair which is full house...8 gear doors, sliding canopy and a bunch of other items. Also...Gyro on the rudder, and BTA auto pilot for fun. 38 pounds G-62 with scale exhaust. Believe with all your heart the posts regarding the easing in of throttle and the high flying tail during the tackoff run. You must use the rudder even with the gyro. Maybe the new piazo ones are faster acting but you still need to help it along a little. Being a known outlaw and free thinker (I used to hang around with heli flyers) I was chalanged to put a gyro in my brand new Corsair 8 years ago. For the first flight no less. Let me tell y'all that we burned a bunch of gas road testing without the outer wing panels trying out the gyro. It works!! One test without the gyro it got all of 50 feet before it turned 90 degrees at the airport field. With the the gyro.. same conditions it slowly drifted to the left and nearly took off with out the outer wing panels!! I was convinced. The first flight takeoff looked just like Maj. B in the Black Sheep. Smooth as silk. I now have the gyro hooked up with the gear channel so high rate is on when the gear are down and low rate when the gear is up. I also have 5 degrees of right rudder built into the fin/rudder assembly. My father in law said he thought he used about 20 degrees right rudder on carrier take offs when he flew them. One other trick is to use Dubro Air wheels. Pump them up on grass and deflate 'em on pavement. These are nice and soft so the tail naturally rises high. You can use just a tad of down then gradually easy off and apply just a little up to take off. get the gear up and let it build speed for a couple hundred feet slowly gaining altitude. All of my flying is done scale like. No hovering or deep spins or violent snaps. Even though the full size was capable of a snap it was not anything like current aerobatic models. Another little tidbit.. I have flown mock combat with several Zero's that weighed 26-28 pounds with G-62. You would think the Zero to be faster but for some reason it is not. As you know the Corsair was an energy fighter and once the air speed was up the Zero was badly outclassed. We tried various combat situations and the Corsair model can't quite make the turns with the Zero but look out if we do a yoyo or split S. I almost mid-aired my buddy when I mis-judged the speed build up. I'm sure many of the full sized pilots overshot their targets too. As noted in the posts above these are the most spectacular flyers of all warbirds. No matter how many flights I've had it still raises the hair on my neck every time I roll out and make a high speed flyby. My $.02 worth is up so more later. good luck with all the bentwing birds.

I have really enjoyed this thread as I am now building my 3rd Corasir. One Ziroli, one Byron, and now one more Ziroli. Just can't seem to stay away from bentwing birds. I can't say that I ever had any trouble with the takeoff because from the beginning I used all of the skills listed above. One of my favorite things to do was to get up about 400 feet and with the engine at idle put the bird into a vertical dive and pull out at about 20 feet while slamming full throttle. WOW what a sound the Corsair makes with the engine winding up and the whistling sound WOW!! They called it whistling death. Almost every giant scale Corsair that I've seen exhibits, under the right conditions, a fishtail shimmy. Usually with a high speed pass and sleight climb. Have you seen this? Probably a gyro would prevent this. Ken

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Cont.. - 5/9/2002 10:44:53 PM   
Skyflying1



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From: San Antonio, TX, USA
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Ken, my TF and Byron Corsairs certainly exhibited this phenomenon as well as nearly every other Corsair I've seen. One exception stands out in my mind and that was a Ziroli with a Saito 3 cylinder radial in it. Have no idea why it did not fishtail but it was the first thing I noticed about it when it flew!

SpitfireMk5, my Ziroli, Byron, and a friends Ziroli did it. I wonder if the full scale ever did it. Guess I'll have to look up an old Corsair Pilot. The shimmy was never dangerous, just interesting. Ken

Jack, et. al. I have really enjoyed and learned from the input regarding the corsair take off characteristics and dangers. Now that we have the bird in the air, how do we get it down. I would have to assume that the landing is equally as difficult as the take off, or am I mistaken?

Again, great thread. Would it be advisable to use little or no flaps on take off? This would keep the bird on the groung until it reaches a higher air speed, which would help keep her away from an underspeed snap. Using flaps is a great way to get a bird off the ground quicker, or as I have done with other planes, to get it off in tall sod. Thanks, Johnny C!

I think the use of flaps on takeoff compounds the problem with premature flight. It provides additional lift that's true but I think any deviation caused by wind or torque could get you in trouble pretty fast. I don't use the flaps at all on takeoff and I never land without them. I'll cover the landing routine we developed tonight in another post. No time right now. Keep the comments comming because many new Corsair Pilots are going to keep their new planes in one piece because of this.

I found my Byron Corsair to be quite easy to land, in fact, it was one of my favorite parts of the flight. As with Jack, I always used the flaps for landing (never for takeoff). With full flaps the final approach could be (read that "had to be" made quite steep with just a tad of power. The last place you want to be with this airplane is low and slow with a high angle of attack. I never made a long, flat approach like you would with a sport model as that would be begging for trouble. Keep the nose down until just a few feet off the ground and then gently flair, being ready with the throttle if necessary. It's amazing how fast a Corsair will bleed off speed with the flaps down when you pull the nose up. As with any model, any power changes during the approach and flair shoud be smooth. Don't abruptly jam the throttle forward and then back again as that only forces the nose even higher during the round out to touch down. I guess the biggest piece of advice I could give would be to never try and fly a long, low approach with lots of power on. Use the flaps for what they were intended, to allow a steeper approach without excessive speed build up. I guarantee you the airplane will not stall/snap with the nose pointed down! It's very easy if you keep a few simple rules in mind at all times. Once you get the hang of it you will be able to spot land the airplane more accurately then your buddy with his Sig Kadet! Good luck, Chad Veich.

I agree with spitfire on the landings. When I first started flying my Corsair nobody would help me as they didnot want to be part of any crashes. I tried to watch other warbird flyers but they were all very light weight planes and not close to scale outline. I did manage to talk to several former full size pilots and studied an old flight manual. As it turns out our big model fly very close to the full size plane. Low and slow and dirty is asking for trouble. I used full flaps (50 deg) for my first landing and used a very steep approach. You could hear the groans in the peanut gallery as the plane came around sinking like a stone. I cut the throttle at about 5 feet which was a little too high. At the last second I winged the throttle and with full up the tail came back down and it touched down right at the third wire. It landed just like the full size on a carrier in heavy seas. The Robarts squished down completely along with the DuBro's. It bounced once about a foot and settled in. After rolling about 75 feet I stopped and turned around and taxied back to the entrance of our runway doing slow S turns. I gave it full right rudder and a little up and one sharp jazz on the throttle and it turned 90 deg facing out on the runway. I killed the motor and had my son go tow it into the pits. Notice I didn't drive into the pits jazzing the throttle like some peoples' kids do. I made a good number of landings like this before I figured out that you have to keep some throttle on almost right to the ground so air is moving over the control surfaces. The Corsair and most other warbirds do not have very large tail feathers so you need to have a good amount of air moving over the tail to maintain control. I made one dead stick when the ign switch shorted out (grounded) It happened just as I made a low flyby lowering the gear. I quickly retracted the gear and continued the turn across the runway The plane was only about 75 feet up and well under half speed. I probably could have made the 180 back to the runway but there was a large crowd of spectators and I did not want to risk landing toward the crowd so I left the gear and flaps up (to preserve them) and let it sink straight ahead. As it turned out it hit the only bush for 1/4 mile around and spun the plane around into a bowling ball size rock. The impact busted the motor cup right in half and bent the crank. The bush cut a bite sized gash in the wing near the tip and that was it. I sent the motor to RCIgnitions the next day and had it back in a week. Being the tightwad that I am I took the motor cup to work and practiced my TIG welding skills on it rather than buy a new one. ( I can't believe it worked that hard to save $20) Anyway after about 2 weeks I flew it again and have had no trouble since. I replace the switch about every 30 flights now. more later. bentwings forever

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Cont... - 5/9/2002 10:45:26 PM   
Skyflying1



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From: San Antonio, TX, USA
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The landing sequence for the Corsair is also a routine and with a little practice it will make you look like a pro. First you make your final pass into the wind parallel with the active runway. At the halfway point down the runway you execute your proceedural turn away from you 90 degrees to the runway. Turn again to downwind maintaining altitude and drop the landing gear. If you don't clearly see the gear come down fly another circuit and verify your gear is down. On the down wind leg reduce the throttle to about half and as you turn into the base leg drop the flaps all the way down. Turn onto the final leg and here is where it gets important. Fighters have very effective flaps and you need to let them do their job which is to slow the plane down and they will do that if you manage the throttle. Your approach should be steep at least 40 degrees. Keep the nose down pointing to your chosen touchdone position. Like Chad said in the post above the plane will not stall if the nose is pointed down. You control the entire decent with the throttle not the elevator. Adding power will lessen the angle of decent and reducing throttle will increase the angle. You should start your flare 10 feet or so off of the ground and power needs to come back to idle once you know you have made the runway. Five feet would be better on a .90 size model to start the flare. Begin your flair and the plane will loose speed very quickly and it will drop if you stall. You want to avoid the dreaded stall and with the flaps down the plane will maintain stability at a much lower airspeed but pay close attention to the airplane. Keep the wings level and let it settle in on the landing gear. If you are going to miss the approach add power SLOWLY and do not try to turn. Build up some airspeed and then go around for your next attempt. Again control your decent with the throttle and remember changes in throttle are made slowly and steadily. You should attempt to keep your approaches steep and straight. This is where we loose many model warbirds because the pilot wants to make that low slow approach and the plane drops the left wing and the rest is history. Watch a fighter land at the next airshow you attend and he will fly the approach just like I described. Once the mains touch do not force the tail down by inputting up elevator. This will cause the plane to takeoff again and it will stall. Let it come down on its own. If you need any directional correction use the rudder not the ailerons. I think with warbirds you will learn to use the rudder like it or not if you are going to become proficient at flying one. Once you have the tail wheel on the ground you can steer the plane and you should clear the runway as soon as possible. If you are totally missing the landing check your plane out thoroughly and see if you can find anything wrong. The flaps should slow it down very well and they will make it much more stable. If you miss the field and have to land anywhere but the runway put the gear up and belly land. It will scratch the bottom of the plane up but it doesn't compare to the damage that usually occurs if the landing gear touchdown in heavy grass. It usually rips the gear completely out of the wing and can severly damage the retract unit and the strut and the wing. If you attempt to land in grass that has not been mowed the plane will flip and that's very hard on the rudder. It also will damage the landing gear if they are not retracted. That is some scary stuff but it is exactly what you need to know before you fly. You will only have micro seconds to respond if the landing goes bad and if you have to take time to think about it it's too late. Just be prepared. Control the landing with flaps and throttle. It takes a little practice and you should fly all the way to the landing flair several times before you actually try and land so you get the feel of how the plane is going to react. I noticed on all three of my big Corsairs that full flap deployment at half power made the plane climb. I input 6 degrees of down elevator and coupled that input to the flap switch so the computer radio took care of it automatically and the plane was much easier to put into a nose down attitude for final approach. The point is you need to know what the plane is going to do when the flaps are lowered. Check this out at a safe altitude several times before you attempt to land. Just back the power off to half and drop the flaps. If it climbs you need to add some down trim. The type of radio you are using will determine how to address this. If you have to manually input the down trim just do it on the transmitter as you fly the base leg. Two clicks is normally enough. The more trim problems you can eliminate the more likely you will have a great landing. I would suggest that you fly the landing routine with you model sitting on the table so you can watch the flight surfaces move as you send the commands through the radio. It will become automatic if you practice and your Corsair will be around for many seasons. Good Luck!!!!

I fly mostly warbirds and have flown the American Eagle Corsair, 93", for about a year now. I haven't noticed any particular bad habits that the Corsair displays that is any different than any other warbird with a fairly heavy wing loading. I believe it was Chuck Yeager that said, "You must follow three rules when landing a Mustang, Rule 1. Don't go slow. Rule 2. Don't go slow. And Rule 3. Don't go slow." I believe that applies to all of our scale warbirds. This Corsair weighs in at 31 lbs., so it really isn't that heavy for the size wing that is on the airplane. Please don't let the above post scare you. If you are a good pilot, and have become proficient on sport aircraft, you can fly a warbird. Just don't let it jump off the runwar on you too soon and keep up the airspeed on landing and put it down on the mains. Follow those two guidelines and you won't have any trouble. The Corsair is no different than any other warbird. If fact, it flys a hell of a lot better than most and better than some military trainers I've flown. One example of that is the BT-13. Now you're talking about a tip stalling son of a gun.

Fighterpilot makes a good point. No need to be scared about flying a warbird, just be PREPARED. The key to warbird flying is to stay wř1—Pć|

(in reply to Skyflying1)
       Post #: 6

Cont.... - 5/9/2002 10:46:08 PM   
Skyflying1



Posts: 318
Joined: 2/27/2002
From: San Antonio, TX, USA
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I'm glad you jogged my thick head about the stall on take off and landing. I have a long story about this that I will spare you for now but if you are interested let me know. The point of it is that I had nasty tip stall that seemed to occur out of nowhere on my 'Z' corsair. To make a long story short I called Ziroli and spoke to Z Jr. He suggested that I think for a moment about what happens when the aileron goes up. Well...if you put an incidence gage on the wing/aileron you will see that you get negative incidence which is the same effect as washout..right. So if you crank in a couple turns of up aileron on both sides you now have more washout which means more angle of attack before tip stall. Forget the "if a little is good alot more is alot better". A couple of degrees goes a long way. I added this to my bruised 'Z' corsair and arrived at the field for tests. The nasayers and infamous peanut gallery all thought that I finally had gone off the deep end. I had antiflaperons on a warbird of all things. The cameras and camcorders were all ready for the splat of the year. Well after 3 perfect flights and flawless landings I loaded up and headed home. Man my head was so swelled up I could hardly fit in the van! Of course I didn't tell anyone I had already experimented with this on my son's Sig Fazer earlier in the week so I knew exactly what to expect!! The funny but sad thing is that 6 nice warbirds were splattered in that club after this event. All of these could have been still flying if the owners would have just listened and thought about how planes fly. Scale warbirds fly on the wings and not the prop. These guys all flew hot aerobatic planes and just seemed to forget that you can't bank and yank a warbird around like the aerobatic planes. Well enough bashing for tonight. This is a great thread so let's keep it going. Maybe a Corsair topic can be started. bentwings

Shame on you guys!!! Don't you gentlemen realize that all this excellent information will result in reduction in sales of "replacement" plane and wing kits--not to mention retract parts? Great thread with a wealth of invalable information that will save a lot of great birds. I have been flying Corsairs for about six years and every input to this thread is gospel! Love the plane. Thanks. Warmest regards. ray h.

Owning a top flight giant f4u I did some research by reading a book that I believed was called "whistling death". I picked it up at the local library and it was super informative regarding all of the characteristics the orignal test pilot found during testing and production of early to late model corsairs. It also gives some good information about it's tendencies in fighting, most specifically with the zero. Searching corsair subjects at your library web site should find it for you.

My TF- Gold Edition is my second Corsair, first being a DynaFlite Funscale. My TopFlight one wieghs in at 8 3/4 lbs, with retracts! Both have retracts (VERY difficult to do with DynaFlite one). Early on, I attempted 3 point landings with Dynaflite one, always resulted in bouncy landings. Them I remembered watching Baa Baa Black Sheep and seeing those Corsairs always land tail high, that is landing on the mains. Same thing at airshows, while most other warbirds can make 3 point landings (Mustangs, WildCats, HellCats, even BearCats), Corsairs were ALWAYS landing on the mains. So I tried it and it works, I grease it in on the mains (maintain some power) and bouncy landings are no more. I also agree with whoever said that he lands with gear up when dead stick, a few scratches are far better than the damage that I have encountered to those weak Robart retracts. Flying Corsairs has transformed me to a rudder pilot, and I am glad it did. Previously, I just used rudder for take offs and aerobatic manuevers, now I am using it constently. I find that a little opposite (to turn direction) rudder gives more scale like turns. And of course, you MUST stay on the rudder during takeoff and low speed, high power manuvers. Bent Wings and Round Engines Forever. Check out my Corsairs at: http://y42.photos.yahoo.com/bc/corsairjock/lst?.dir=/Jim+Jager%27s+Loves&.view=t

I could use some advice. I want to invest in a giant scale Corsair or Mustang. This will be my first giant scale. I am currently looking at getting a 93" kit from Saxton Kits at [url]www.rsaxton.com.[/url] I was wondering if this will be a good kit. Would you recommend someone else? Do you guys prefer a foam core or wood buildup for the surfaces? I have absolutely enjoyed all the information you have been writing. Please give this young warbird nut some advice on how to get started.

This is an excellent thread Guys! A couple of points that may not of been mentioned in flying giant-scale warbirds. I'm certainly not an aeronautical expert, so bear with me. Carefully observe your initial flap deflection, as you may enhance lift instead of creating the drag necessary to land on runway center. When I first flew my Ziroli Skyraider, I only dialed in 30 degress deflection and had difficulty spot landing. The model just kept wanting to fly and would often become dangerously close to that dreaded stall. A friend recommended to increase the flap deflection to 40-45 degrees, which I thought was way too much! Once I dialed in that 45 degrees, she was ridicolously easy to land. Smooth as silk every time! I now use a base setting of 40 degrees on all my warbirds. Another tip... watch those flap servo's and their hardware. I've witnessed several warbirds crash because of inadequate flap servo's, weak linkages, improper installations and untimely deployment. I suggest only high torque, metal-geared servo's (Hitec 615MG work well) and aftermarket horns, such as those H/D Dubro units. Install the flap servo close to the surface, and so it pulls the load instead of pushing it. Avoid deploying flaps at full throttle anytime, especially on your downleg. This places a tremendous, unecessary load on the surface. Set up your radio to allow a two position setting or get familiar with stepped rotation of the flap knob on the transmitter. Avoid looking down at your radio. This is a critical moment. As I turn base, I reduce throttle to half and drop gear. Always add a slight amount of throttle (these warplanes really dirty up quickly p ˇPć|

(in reply to Skyflying1)
       Post #: 7

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