RE: 130 Flaps  
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All Forums >> RC Airplanes >> Twin & Multi Engine RC Aircraft >> RE: 130 Flaps
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RE: 130 Flaps - 12/3/2003 10:16:03 AM   
Jimmy Bananas


 

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Well I believe I found the paint scheme for mine...Will have the paint specially made and intend to use automotive type....Scheme is for a C-130E, based in Japan...21st Tactical Airlift Sq. The colors are:

FS 34079 Dark Green
FS 34102 Medium Green
FS 30219 Dark Tan
FS 36622 Camouflage Gray
FS 37038 Flat Black

Very few markings on the plane..Just the serial # on the rudder and 4 star and bars ( Very Small) and thats it..Like I said before,will paint it next spring...Heck, might even change my mind about engines..I figure the plane is going to weight around 25 Ibs with 4 Mag's 36 2 stroke engines....Sure would like to have 4 Saito 40's 4 strokes....More reliable when inverted...and a much nicer sound.....

Right now ,am working on a 3 engine Italian bomber...Heeeeeeeeeeyyyyyy,thats Italian :-))....And it's not "Honey Do " time either..am divorced..

Thanx for all the info Jim and Randy....

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RE: 130 Flaps - 12/3/2003 3:33:34 PM   
fossil



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I have the Quality Fiberglass kit, but haven't started it yet. I have to admit I am a little intimidated by it. I bought mine second hand and instructions for completing this kit are not very good. I am a good builder but use to having instructions to help me. I am an Active duty Air Force Loadmaster on the C-130 (thats why I got it) I have over 4000 hours on E and H models including 6 years stationed at the Lockheed plant flying the new J model. Any help or a place to get better instructions for completing this bird would be appreciated.
fossil

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RE: 130 Flaps - 12/3/2003 4:49:56 PM   
c130nut


 

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Hey Jim... you were talking about putting stringers in the fuse to help with the flex. I have another model that had a similar problem, but the put carbon fiber strips down the wing to keep it rigid. Do you tink that 1/2 in. carbon strips with thinned expoxy put on & under them would make them rigid enough?
Bill

Oh.... when you guys were getting ready to mount the nacells, did you put all of the "stuff" inside of them first? Give me some advise on the insides of these and tips on the subject of nacells

bill R.

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RE: 130 Flaps - 12/3/2003 8:28:56 PM   
rryman


 

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Fossil, I felt the same way about mine when I got it. But, if you study the plans by section, it isn't too bad. Certainly not a beginners kit, but it actually goes together rather nicely. I got lots of help from Jimcork and some others on here, plus made some of my own changes as I went. I have been making a running account of the building of mine in digital pics, so if you would like a shot of some of the things I've done I'll send some pics if you send me your email address. I am assuming that you did get two plan sheets with the kit you bought in addition to the 8 1/2 x 11 sheet??
========
C130nut, all the "guts" inside the nacelles are built on a frame that slides into the nacelle, and likewise slides out as a unit. I did mine a little different from the way Jim did, but hope it works out. I did install an access panel at the back of each nacelle for ease of hooking up the throttle servo wire, and routing also. The servo lead hole that goes from the center of the wing to the aileron and throttle servos passes right under this access panel. Jim mentioned that hooking up the throttle servo lead could be tricky, so I decided to make it a little easier. I'm big on being able to get to stuff when you need to. I like being able to pop off an access panel to get to something rather than having the frustrations of not being able to check it-especilly when I'm at the field, which is usually when you need to do the checking!
Randy

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RE: 130 Flaps - 12/3/2003 8:42:45 PM   
fossil



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rryman I need to check to be sure but all I got was some 8 1/2 x 11 sheets of paper with some info on the kit, I don't believe I got any plans. I need to check to be sure, I'll check tomorrow. I would like to see the pics of your construction that you said you would send me, my email addy is: fossil2@mindspring.com
Thanks,
fossil

< Message edited by fossil -- 12/3/2003 3:46:33 PM >


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RE: 130 Flaps - 12/3/2003 9:00:53 PM   
rryman


 

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No wonder you thought the directions were a bit "skimpy"! You should have two (2) 24" x 36" plan sheets in there somewhere. If you don't you could contact Bob Sealy at Quality Fiberglass at 931-526-4770. Also got your email and will be forwarding some pics direct to you.
Randy

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RE: 130 Flaps - 12/3/2003 9:07:52 PM   
fossil



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Thanks I'll call Bob and looking foward to the pics.
fossil

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RE: 130 Flaps - 12/3/2003 9:08:41 PM   
c130nut


 

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There are two sheets of plans that came along with my kit.
Bill R.

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Billy Richardson, C130nut
Madison, MS

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Stringers - 12/4/2003 4:04:07 PM   
jimcork1



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The 2 stringers I installed were in the floor under the landing gear box. The box installed alone would result in the entire floor flexing unacceptable. (Based upon the first few landings it was good i put in the stringers)

The stringers were 36" long 1/4x1/4 and I cut a slot in the LG box for them. After they were epoxied to the floor I put 4 oz glas over them to strengthen. This has worked out well and added little weight.

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RE: Stringers - 12/4/2003 10:07:39 PM   
c130nut


 

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how far apart were the stringers? Do you think Carbon Fiber would work?
Bill R.

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Madison, MS

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RE: Stringers - 12/6/2003 4:26:09 AM   
bobbyq


 

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It appears that quite a few of my C-130 kits are under construction. The average modeler is always full of good ideas that they can do to improve on someone else's design. Numerous people have expressed a desire to stiffen the fuselage. Most builders that have done so, have done so with success. Most of these planes appear to have a flying weight in the mid 20 pound range. At this weight, a slightly stiffer fuselage is desired. The prototype has no stiffening, is laid up just like the kit version, and flies at 14 pounds. At this lower weight, the flex in the fuselage is not a problem. The prototype flies with OS 26 four strokes, and flies quite well. It will maintain altitude at about 3/4 throttle. It does not have any power to spare, as most of the flight is at full throttle, but this is my style of flying. Build it with adequate power, not excessive power. To each his own. One local modeler is building his with a rear ramp and plans to drop parachutists. My c-130 was built as simple as possible, just four channels, no electronic mixing of any type, and a color scheme to match, primer grey to match the Tennessee Air National Guard. On the other end of the scale, I see many of you installing retracts, flaps, door ramps, and many other add ons. All of these featrures really help to enhance the looks and flyability of your C-130. Again, personal preference, plane jane, or a Cadilac. Of course, the Cadilac is far more impressive. Enough for now. I am currently working on the tooling for a Lockheed Constellation with about a 114inch or so wingspan. Hope to have the prototype ready to fly by March. Gotta go, Bob Sealy Quality Fiberglass

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RE: Stringers - 12/6/2003 4:44:13 AM   
rryman


 

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Well, I liked the primer grey scheme also. The late model gunships have pretty much gone to that as standard. But, believe it or not, the wife said she liked the camo look, I guess because my AC-47 is done that way, so I think I'll go with that, to keep them alike and please the little woman. She doesn't mind the hobby, and has never once said, "How much did that cost?" (lucky for me!!) I also take care not to leave any invoices laying around either!!!
Randy

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Weight - 12/6/2003 9:37:53 PM   
jimcork1



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Wow 14#'s.. I guess I build heavy with 23#. Mine flies on 4 saito .30 and will fly very slowy at 2/3 throttle. Very stable I might add. Stalls are very soft and it just slowly drops a wing, usually the left wing. Perhaps due to torque.

I only added a small bulkhead to attach the leading edge of the removable stab, and one for the nose wheel.

These were only 1/2 bulkheads and not full cover the open fuse. No other bulkheads were added. I did have to cut out the cockpit to reach the retract nosewheel.

Still weigh 23# wet. Jim

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