Posts: 847
Joined: 12/12/2003 From: babylon, NY, USA Status: offline
rryman...which os engines are you using? two or four strokes and what size!
I will be using os .32 two strokes with with my proven 4-bladed wood 9x5 master airscrews which I make myself. I had this engine/prop combonation on my 8 lb c-160 transall. It worked excellent Take offs were at 1/2 throt., punch almost vertical at full throt. to a cieling of 500 ft (not very scale like) and cruise at a slow scale speed at a click or two above 1/4 throt.
Posts: 971
Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
Gunny, I'm using OS .25FX on this one. This is the first FX engines I've used. I was impressed with the way they broke in. I'm sure they can use a little more running, and I didn't do anything with the idle adjustments yet, since I had to put them back in the pods from the test stand and will have to readjust the linkage, etc. I'll do that on the plane. I kept a tach on them during break in and each time I leaned it out during the break in cycle I was picking up additional rpm. I broke in the .25 LA engined I have on my Transall the same way, and as I recall I was getting about 12-13k out of them after break in. I'm going to seriously try to find a 3 blade prop that will work on this C-130. So far, I haven't found a 9 x 4 three balde. I'm sure someone should make one. I had what I believed was 9 x5 three blades on the transall originally and they just didn't cut it. Turns out they were 9 x 6. Guess they were just a little much for the .25 engine. I'm getting good performance out of the .25LA engines on my Transall, I can only imagine how those .32's make it perform. If this 130 takes off and lands as good as my Transall, I'll be more than satisfied. The Transall has probably the most scale looking take offs and landings I've ever seen in a model I had. I know, (before someone remnds me!) that it's the pilot, not the plane, but this is a very well behaved airplane. Keep in touch, Randy
Posts: 971
Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
I weighed the beast again tonight and it comes out at 17.25# dry. Add the difference between a 1100mah and the 1500 that I'm going to put in, whatever nose weight it takes and that will be it. Maybe still possible to come in at 18#. Randy
Posts: 915
Joined: 1/29/2002 From: Slidell,
LA, USA Status: offline
I will check the throws tomorrow and let you know what I am flying. Black looks nice..
Has anyone flown the bird yet other than myself and Bob. Still wondering how to get under 20#?
The stringers were spruce 1/4x1/4" on the floor. 2 equally spaced in the landing gear box and 3' long. I just centered them up. Epoxied them to the floor and landing gear box. Then I put 4 oz glas over them.
Dah,, maybe this is why I am at 22 #'s. In any case I have 19 flights. Been flying the stinger 1.2 with my trusty 1.8 Saito. Flat spins have been working out well.
The winds here have been 15 g to 20 knots across the runway so the herk has stayed in the hanger.
Caution,, when landing the herk, the wing spand will NOT allow a lot of maneuvering low to the ground. When you align on the runway don't S turn on final,, Fly it down and keep it centered with small turns.
Let me know when anyone else is flying. (I have been building another big bird,, and not on line this week ),, Shame on me.. I will check the throws.
I did use about 1.5#'s of weight in the nose to balance. Perhaps without this I would have been about 20#'s.
I did not use any chokes or filters in the servo wiring. I did however use 2 rec. and 2 bat packs. 1 rec operates the wing and the antenna follows the top of the fuse and into the rudder up to the tip.
The other rec is in the landing gear box and operates all the fuse. equipment. The antenna runs on the floor and about 10" away from the other antenna. There is NO electrical connection between the wing rec. and the fuse. rec. This keeps glitching out of the system. At least for me anyway it works. I also use NiMh 1450 ma batt's.
Posts: 31
Joined: 1/4/2003 From: Schenectady,
NY, USA Status: offline
I have reviewed the Skip Mast C-130 plans and cannot find any wing washout. The best I can determine is the wing root and stab are 0 degrees. I am thinking of adding 2 degres of washout to the Mast 130 I'm building and am looking for suggestions. Can any builders of the Mast C-130 help me with this? Were your birds built with no washout as well?
Posts: 971
Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
Bill, Here is two pics I took of the inside the way I did the hook up.With all the room that's available in this thing, there are lots of possibilities-this is just one. I opted to put the rudder servo about on the CG instead of the tail, and use a pull-pull cable. I have two Hi-Tech HS-2225BB servos for each elevator, located on each side of the stab. Used the same servos for the ailerons. Picture one-Directly looking down into the fuse from the wing saddle. Rudder servo is in the center of the landing gear box, and the receiver is mounted on a ply plate on the right hand side. Beneath the receiver is a styrofoam block in which the landing gear light circuit board is embedded, with rubber pads on each side of the board. On the bottom of the ply plate I put aluminum tape, to possibly shield any signals from the circuit board to the receiver, although I did not experience any problem with this during check out. Picture 2- is a shot looking forward from the wing saddle. You can see the nose steering servo, which is located directly inside the access door I made on the left side of the plane. You have to make some sort of incision in the fuse in order to even get to the nose to put the stuff in! This is what I chose to do. The 9 volt battery is for the RAM rotating beacon and is velcro'd to the nose gear ply mount, and the circuit board for that is velcro'd to the floor directly in front of the access door. Forward of that is the "floor I put in to support the battery/batteries for the flight pack. I have velcro glued to this floor for attachment of the battery. Hopefully, a 1500mah pack will just about balance the thing. If not, in goes the lead! One thing that has been if immense help to me is a device that I call a "copycat" (I don't know what others call it). Trying to get ply plates to fit inside the fuse and getting the right shape is a problem. With this device, making a former is a piece of cake. I'll send you a pic of it if you don't know what it is. Hard to describe. Available at most any hardware store. You know, someone could take these couple threads and put together a helluva set of instructions for building this bird!! I know I would have been lost without Jimcorks help. (still think we should have a "Herk Rally" somewhere!!)
Posts: 971
Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
OOPS! Two things in pic 2 above need explaining. The battery laying on the floor of the fuse is just temporaryily laying in there-won't be there when the big one goes up front. The white things on the right side of the pic is guide tubes made out of business cards for the battery wire from the switch to the battery. My switch is installed in the fuse under the right wing. I'm trying to keep the battery wire as far away from the rotating beacon wire as I can, because I got a lot of servo jitter in this when it was mounted back where the landing gear light board was. Guess it was too close to the receiver. Another great thing about working on big airplanes- plenty of room to move stuff apart! Sorry for that screw up, but I've been looking at this computer screen since 4pm today. Bought another printer last weekend, only to find that the operating system on the computer wouldn't support it. Had that updated today, and half the other stuff I had wouldn't work, and I've been downloading updates, drivers, etc. since then to get everything all back in one pile! Hopefully, I'm done!!! Randy
Posts: 971
Joined: 2/24/2002 From: Harrisonburg,
VA, USA Status: offline
Yes, that's my contraption I worked out to give some spring to the nose gear since there is none built into the gear wire, it's just a straight piece of 5/32 rod. I just thought it might help out somewhat on a rough field. Randy
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RE: c130 engines - 
