Internal firewall reinforcement pieces have now been added as shown and will be fibreglassed for final securement! Why the manufacturers failed to reinforce the complete internal firewall perimeter is beyond me. Perhaps they believe that it's not necessary...but, imo, I believe it is!
Finally a 1/8th ply plate will be installed internally to reinforce the drilled mount holes....for my peace of mind!
The firewall, tank bay and servo bay will next be fuel-proofed!
The cowl is held in place by 4 screws...two either side of the fuz! The problem with this is that fibreglass cowls will enevitably split/crack when screwed into position due to engine vibration.
1) I've therefore opted to fit 4 hardwood blocks made up from scrap. To the face of these has been added a small poece of wing elastic which the cowl will rest upon and help absorb vibration.
2) Each block is drilled with a cluster of 1.5mm holes. Epoxy will eventually run into these and help make a good foundation for the mounted blocks.
3) Likewise the firewall is roughened with glasspaper where each block will sit and 1.5mm holes drilled to about a 3mm depth.
Posts: 135
Joined: 1/18/2002 From: Cornwall, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
If I understand your problem, try the following...
Using some threaded rod with a ball link on the end, fix this to the throttle arm extended to the side so that you get a linkage point closer to the side of the fus. It need not be all the way to the fus side, just enough to allow clearance down the side of the engine casing.
Then, ensuring the snake exists below or above this, use a piece of wire bent so that it goes forward beyond the throttle then double backs on itself to line up with the ball link. See the photo to get the idea, but please ignore the state of the model it is attached to!
Hope this works for you, since I'm planning on fitting a TT91FS when mine arrives!
That seems to be an excellent solution so I'll go with that!
Also my ASP .91 has yet to be run in and the instructions state to use a 13 x 7 or 8. If I decide instead to go for a 3-blade prop I would use a 12 x 8. Is a 3-blade prop. okay to run-in a new engine or should I only use a 2-blade?
Posts: 135
Joined: 1/18/2002 From: Cornwall, UNITED KINGDOM Status: offline
2 or 3 blades? Guess that should be ok using the general rule of "down one in diameter, up one in pitch". I've always bought 3-blade props for my scale competition models, but never ended up using them just in case I got it wrong!
Without the experience of using a 3-blade in 'anger', I would always opt for the 2-blade for a maiden flight, it's one less thing to worry about.
2 & 3) It's the first time that I've ever seen these type of clevises. A drop of CA soon produces a sound clevis which have a positive click when closed.. Rather than use the suplied heat shrink tube to secure the horn connection I prefer fuel tube which is just as effective and easier to move if further adjustments are required!
4) The rudder and elevator slots are cut out...one either side, and the assembled dowel/wire control rods fed through!
So far I have been very pleased with this kit. But now I have met my first major niggle.
The supplied cockpit is, imo, of poor quality. The excess flash moulding needs to be trimmed away to produce an accurate fit on the fuz.
As I carefully commenced the cutting out procedure the material split open as shown. The front part is weak which surprises me as the general kit quality is pretty good. Perhaps it is a one off and I've now contacted the supplier for their comments!
My supplier has just contacted me and is sending on a replacement cockpit free of charge. It pays to contact your supplier if you have a problem with a model and, initially, a few images with an e-mail is probably best. Sometimes an image speaks louder than words!
Printable Version
All Forums >> Radios, Batteries, Clubhouse and more >> User Product Reviews >> RE: Jamara Spitfire60 ARTF 
RE: Jamara Spitfire60 ARTF - 
