The new ASP .91 2-stroke will be run in on a 13 x 8 prop. I must remember to balance it as an out of balance prop will soon cause damage to the engine!
For me probably the most dissapointing feature of this kit is the tail-wheel. It looks cheap and spoils the model's final appearence. The metal preformed bracket is held in position by 2 x 10mm screws and the wire arm is merely pushed and epoxied into the rudder. I've set mine a little high as our grass strip is fairly soft this time of the year!
As stated previously I do not like metal wing bolts as these are unforgiving in the event of a heavy 'arrival' whereas my preferred plastic bolts, which I intend to use, may well save major wing damage.
Right...now let's take a look at the completed model!
< Message edited by Macx -- 2/15/2004 8:44:01 PM >
The total assembly time of this ARTF model is around 10 - 15 hours depending on your experience and assembly speed. Assembly is fairly straight forward but , imo, this is not a model for a novice/beginner to fly initially. The overall quality of the kit considering its budget price of £108 is very good and has proved to be better than I expected. There are a few niggling things already mentioned during the assembly but overall the kit has proved to be an enjoyable build.
You can of course fit the supplied fixed undercart and consider fitting the retracts at a later date. The choice is yours. If she flies as well as she looks I'll be a happy pilot!
Now to fire up the new ASP .91 4-stroke and see if this proves to be value for money. I wonder if it'll sound anything like the infamous Merlin? You never know!
...nostalgic stuff!
< Message edited by Macx -- 2/16/2004 3:58:03 PM >
A seperate onboard battery supply for the mechanical retracts, imo, makes more sense from a safety point of view. Using a single onboard power supply could result in the loss of model should should the retract servo stall resulting in a total power drain. Perhaps using a higher capacity power pack, say 1600mAh, is one solution but only delaying a total failure rather than curing the potential problem. Thus if the retract servo stalls and drains the pack at least the model's flight control will still be maintained. The diagram shows how simple it is to achieve.
Using a Y lead to the retract servo, and an additional flight switch for easier recharging, from the battery supply the second Y lead connection plugs into the receiver retract plug WITH ITS RED WIRE CUT. So that only the signal and negative leads plug into the receiver. The second flight pack plugs into the rx. battery plug in the normal way. Before flight both flight switches are turned on in the normal way and now you have independant power supplies to both the retract servo and flight control servos.
< Message edited by Macx -- 2/20/2004 9:01:10 PM >
Posts: 8
Joined: 12/26/2003 From: Tustin,
CA, USA Status: offline
My son received the Sportsman Aviation Spitfire for Christmas...(it appears to be the same ARF as the Jamara, just marketed under a different name)...this is basically our first project, so initially I want to THANK YOU for detailing step by step your assembly process...I have been struggling so far given the brevity of the accompanying "instructions"...
we've decided to install the retracts, but I have a basic "biginners" question for you...do you have any tips on sizing and bending the retract strut to form the axle?
....we've decided to install the retracts, but I have a basic "biginners" question for you...do you have any tips on sizing and bending the retract strut to form the axle?
Hi rkm96,
a) Trial fit the plastic wheel wells as illustrated. b) Next trial fit the retracts but do not screw into position yet. c) Check the centre well position where the axle needs to be formed at 90 degrees, as illustrated, and mark off with tape or marker pen. Measure the width of wheels that you intend using plus an allowance for the internal and external wheel collets.....about 30mm should suffice! d) Remove retracts, place in a vice at the pre-marked position and carefully bend to form 90 degrees (support the pivot end with one hand and carefully hammer to angle with the other. e) IMPORTANT** Make sure that the 90 degree bend is the correct way. If you bend it the wrong way and try to re-straighten the leg will snap off......ask me how I found that one out?
If you do make an error forming, or later suffer landing damage to the axle the complete leg can easily be removed by unscrewing the allen headed grub screw at the pivot. You can then relpace with ordinary 8 swg piano wire from your LHS. A tool is available for forming the coil in u/c legs if desired!
Hope this helps?
I'm till awaiting the chance to run in the new 4-stroke and for the ground to firm up a tad!
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RE: Jamara Spitfire60 ARTF(+ retracts)! - 
